Ocean & Vine at Loews Santa Monica - dineLA & Happy Hour by the Sea (Feels Like Vacation)

How did I spend so many years in LA and never set foot in Loews Santa Monica? 

The sunlit hotel is pretty much on the beach - and last Sunday "Designer" and I were excited to check out TWO spots inside - spurred by the dineLA dinner deal and daily Happy Hour on the poolside terrace with a view of the Pacific!


The atrium / lobby was breathtaking - with towering palm trees underneath the skylit glass roof, and a waterfall wall behind the reception desk offering soothing background noise.  I didn't notice this until friends started pointing it out recently - but apparently whenever I really like a place I say: "it feels like you're on vacation".  Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel makes me feel like I'm on a tropical getaway, without the kitsch.

After taking in the decor for a brief moment, we made our way outside to Papillon, the poolside, beachfront lounge complete with wicker seating and fire pits.  Papillon offers Happy Hour every evening from 5-8pm, with a shortlist of cocktails, wines and appetizers for $6.60 each.  That's considered a great deal pretty much anywhere in LA - but the idea that it comes with gorgeous beach views, where you can sip and graze in an upscale but unpretentious setting, makes this an absolute hidden gem.

We found a table fairly easily (though I think we pretty much got the second to last open one!) and settled in to enjoy the view.  Though we were heading to Ocean & Vine for dineLA, we couldn't help wanting to check out the appetizers while we're there (that way we know what to expect for next time, as we already decided we were lame for not discovering this place sooner - we could have lounged here all summer!)

There were six appetizers to choose from. Our unanimous first choice was the Santa Monica Ceviche with lime, chili and cilantro marinated shrimp, baja sea scallops, salmon, guacamole, tortilla chips.  This was a decent sized platter, and the ceviche and guacamole tasted fairly fresh. But though I appreciated the thoughtful menu (they didn't just serve generic 'bar bites'), and understood these were offered at a pretty low price for SM beachfront property - the quality wasn't something we dreamed about after we left.  Not sure that I would crave it, if it weren't for the view. 

We allowed ourselves to indulge in one more appetizer (after pushing dinner back by an hour and a half!) - Duck Taquitos with mango salsa, guacamole, pico de gallo.  I was excited about this one - but not sure if it was because the service was a bit slow that night, that the taquito lost a bit of crispness and heat before we bit into them, and the duck was a bit dry, but again the trio of dips were fresh tasting, and I would say 'not bad for the view'. 

I guess we could sit on the beach for free - but I liked Papillon, again for making me feel like I'm on vacation.  Plus, you can drink at Papillon...

There are beers, champagne, wines and cocktails on the menu, but our server let us know the cocktails would pretty much be standard mixed drinks like rum & coke (they used to serve  pina coladas but not anymore :/ )

So, Designer decided on champagne and I went for the red sangria.  Of the two, I would recommend the champagne (the sangria tasted like 'a drink inspired by wine' and not really real wine with fruit - too diluted and only a piece or two of token fruit).

The terrace offered great views of the Santa Monica Pier, which was especially gorgeous around sunset with the ferris-wheel-light-show and palm trees blooming against the watercolored sky-sea-sand. 

As the sun retreated for the night, we made our way inside to the Ocean & Vine dining area.  I was excited about this menu as there were some dishes we have not tried before AND this was one of the dineLA deals with the biggest savings versus items on the regular menu ($34 for 3-courses, with estimated savings $29)!

After a pretty delicious bread basket containing what I thought was carrot bread (there were some orange - subtle, not dayglo - pieces in the mix) we both of course went for the seafood starter: Santa Monica Chili with Laughing Bird Shrimp, Baja Sea Scallops, Lump Crab, Roasted Garlic, Fava Beans ($16 on regular menu).  This reminded us of a bouillabaise but lighter and a tad spicy.  All the seafood tasted really fresh, and we appreciated that the shrimp was not overcooked, but tasted made to order.

Four thumbs up on this one.

For my main, I went for the Grapevine Smoked Beef Tenderloin Cold Smoked with a Hint of the Vine, Caramelized Onion, Cognac Beef Marrow Glaze, Artichoke Chips, Black Barley Pilaf ($38 on regular menu!!!).  This in itself justifies the price of the dineLA dinner deal - a perfectly cooked (medium rare of course) piece of beef that is rich with flavor (I'm guessing grass fed!).  Loved the marrow glaze and the sides as well - the sides were forgettable individually, but as a whole texturally served as a nice 'foil' to the tenderloin along with the original artichoke chips.

It did feel a bit Freaky Friday with me ordering meat and Designer ordering fish, but we shared everything anyway and were both curious as to how Catalina Thresher Shark with
Ginger Persimmon Nage, Pacific Lobster Mashed Potatoes, Agave Glazed Heirloom Carrots and Beets would taste (and it was not on the regular menu!).

Our server let us know the texture of the shark would resemble swordfish, which then deflated our expectations as neither of us were fans of swordfish - we both liked our fish tender and velvety smooth.  We should have guessed that the meat would be tough, as sharks of course swim constantly, are lean and pretty much all muscle.  We were glad we tried it, but probably wouldn't order it again anywhere else. The lobster mashed potatoes was the star on this plate.

As I already got my money's worth with the tenderloin alone, I wasn't as mad as I would have been to have wasted my dessert on the Warm Sweet Potato Lasagna with Vanilla Cream, Pecan Caramel (not on regular menu).  I love creativity and risk-taking in food, so in that regard I respect and applaud this dish.  However, the execution left us wanting less of a soggy, rubbery pile of flavorless pasta sheets layered with dehydrated meat and cognitive-dissonance-causing caramel and vanilla creme, and more of a sophisticated interplay of sweet and savory (the disparate elements didn't come together coherently for me).   

Designer wisely chose the Pear Chestnut Crème Brulée with Pistachio Tuile (not on regular menu, closest comparable item is Peaches 'N Creme Brulee for $9). This was an interesting twist on a french classic - the mix of juicy sweet pear pieces with earthy, softly crunchy chestnuts for me worked quite well with the crisp burnt sugar top and creaminess of the interior.

All in all, a great value for dineLA prix fixe - despite the faltering on the one dessert choice - you get to dine in a relaxed but beautiful setting, AND if so inclined - to grab a few cocktails out by the ocean before dinner at Happy Hour prices.

We will definitely be back again to Papillon for Happy Hour, and maybe dinner at Ocean & Vine at some point when we're able to splurge!

[For photos from other meals / deals from dineLA Fall 2011, check out the album on my Facebook page]

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5.5 bites
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 4.5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 5.5 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $$$$ (4 bite marks regular menu)
Probability of return visit - 100% (for Happy Hour & view)
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Papillon
Happy Hour - Daily 5-8pm Wine, select cocktails and appetizers $6.60

Ocean & Vine  
dineLA dinner - $34

Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, 1700 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica, California, 90401
Ph: 866.563.9792    

Parking:  Meters on Ocean Ave 2-hour limit, or free after 6pm daily; meters on Main Street 2-hour limit, free after 6pm and free Sundays (of course, double check street signs)

Website: santamonicaloewshotel.com
OpenTable: Look for reservations
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Redondo Beach International Boardwalk - Fearless Fun Day

I grew up eating (and loving) raw seafood, and was fed animals/parts most people wouldn't even know of or think of as food (delicacies, my parents and grandparents called them - they're good for you).  But I'd never eaten food while it was still alive - until this weekend. 

After seeing a YouTube video of live sea urchin (uni) complete with moving spines, which the poster let me know was from Quality Seafood in Redondo Beach - I'd decided I needed to go try it at some point.  Even if the visual was a little disturbing a la Hannibal Lecter meets Detective Krendler at the dinner table (sorry, not very appetizing - but at least uni is just shellfish gonads...).  Sea urchin is already one of my favorites at sushi restaurants - and curiosity as to how it would taste coming from the freshest source - live, straight from the ocean - made me overcome any hesitation.

So I was super excited when fellow blogger Nomlog said she would be interested in making the trek for the experience as well!

Our adventure began with a quest for a seemingly 'secret' passageway to the boardwalk - Mapquest / GPS directions asked us to turn from Catalina Ave onto Village Dr - which did not seem to exist (at least there were no signs to indicate where it was).



A sea urchin in hand is better than two in the sea?

Knowing the ocean was to our right, we took a chance and tried cutting through a condo complex. Following winding paths, we finally emerged at a small park above the marina - beyond which was Quality Seafood!  Where you can pick out your own, live, seafood from the many tanks - pay by the pound - and have them prepared/cooked to order for free.

My friend "Designer", also a seafood fan, decided to join us - and we flitted around the marketplace like a trio of starving seagulls ready to dive for choice marine life. Past tanks of crab and shellfish, we found what we came for: Live Sea Urchin!!!!

Live from the ocean - it's delicious sea urchin!

We chatted with the guy behind the tanks (who is from Boston, so he knows his shellfish!) and he let us hold a live one.  As expected, it was a little like trying to hold a porcupine without the soft underbelly.  We couldn't wait to eat it (cost by the pound, the one pictured was about $11).  Prepping live sea urchin involved bashing the bottom with a flat metal tool til he could lift a circular piece like a lid, draining liquids out the center - then literally poking any debris out with his finger. 

And voila!  We have our live uni, ready to eat, spines still moving reflexively on the plate.  It was a novelty vs. being creepy - we had a great time capturing lots of shots and a few videos.  The sea urchin was of course incredibly fresh - plump with defined texture - and I loved being able to really taste the ocean with each bite.  The only unexpected thing was that the innards were surrounded by a bit of a milky substance, which we didn't even really want to think about what that could be.

Treasure Troves of Tomalley

At another part of the market, Nomlog ingeniously scored a bag of Lobster heads (4 for $2.30 - an awesome deal!).  Most people would pass this up as there isn't really any meat - but we knew all kinds of deliciousness was hiding inside (tomalley, the liver of a lobster that doesn't look appetizing but is rich with flavor - that Asians especially view as a delicacy)!  Nomlog asked for it to be steamed, and within 20-30 minutes, we had a tray of heads to dig into for 'blue' gold!

Shellfish + white wine sauce:  Can anyone think of a better combination?

To round out our epic feast - a tray of clams live steamed in white wine sauce.  As Nomlog isn't a fan of clams, Designer and I had the giant tray to ourselves.  The cool thing about Quality Seafood is that you can try out the many varieties of shellfish by pretty much getting as much or little as you want - they will throw into a tray and steam it for you on the spot.  Just pay by the pound. So at our friend from Boston's recommendation, we tried a handful each of Tua Tua Clams ($9.99/lb) from New Zealand, with sleek whitish shells, which according to Quality Seafood is only available through them, and Savory Clams ($8.65/lb) with purplish / black/white shell patterns,  Softshell Clams ($14.29/lb) from Boston, and Manila Clams which unfortunately didn't cook right, and we couldn't eat as the shells did not open.  All the clams we tasted were delicious, especially in the light white wine broth - but the Tua Tua was our favorite, sweet and succulent without any tough bits, and relatively large in size.   

Got crabs?

Designer hit up the Live Crab station ($5.99/lb), for fresh steamed crab.  Though it was a bit of a pain for her to have to drop a $3 deposit for a mallet for cracking the shell (then have to wait in line after to get the deposit back), and $1 per cup of drawn butter - I could tell Designer enjoyed her crab by the fact that every time I turned to her, all I could hear were sounds alternating between frenzied mallet pounding and ravenous gorging. 

This echoed the sounds emanating from Nomlog's and my side of the table, where we were elbow-deep in lobster, uni and bass - tomalley smeared faces (plus crab fat that Designer kindly pushed over to me) only emerging from the plates occasionally when coming up for air.

Very attractive, yes I know.  But that's the beauty of it - it's not a fine dining restaurant, everyone sits at communal tables outside and expects to get down and dirty with their seafood.  And we were having our 'fun, fearless females' day - so the heck with what other people think, as long as we are enjoying ourselves.

Beyond the tasty crustaceans, there were also all sorts of fresh fish on ice, that you could choose to either have broiled or fried.  Some of which I've never heard of, like "Bangus Milk Fish", "Golden Pomfre" and "Thresher Shark". 

Nomlog got a lovely cut of sea bass, broiled - you can read about it (and her take on the day) here.

This guy was not happy with us.

Did we feel any guilt for feasting on innocent creatures? Maybe - but it's an honest, heads to tails approach - for those who eat meat, is the 'guilt' in fact any less, just because they have been processed beyond all recognition, making it easier to forget what they were before they were just food on your plate?

For those looking for other items to round out their meal, Quality Seafood also offered sandwiches, corn on the cob, paella and more.  We had skipped these to save stomach space for the fresher preparations of  seafood.

Pelicans in wait for scraps from local fishermen

After lunch, we had a fun time exploring the rest of the boardwalk, and the beach beyond. 

At a 'fish cleaning station', right by where recreational fishermen cast their rods, we 'met' two beautiful pelicans who were happy to take any scraps the fishermen were willing to offer.

They seemed familiar with tourists and even seemed to pose for a few photos.
True to the 'international' part of their name, the boardwalk offered a bunch of eateries of different cuisines that I'd love to go back and try, one of which is Pacific Fish, a Korean-owned casual spot that serves abalone and other seafood plates, along with Korean beers and soju. 

Another is Gambrinus, a Russian bar/restaurant with marina views (just past the water cycles) offering blini, vareniki and belashi (meat pie). 

While strolling the boardwalk we also noticed imprints of sea lions, otters, whales, fish in the cement.  This one, a fish with wings, stood out to me - is it supposed to be a tribute to all the creatures who have gone on to a better place?  Or a play on 'angel fish'?

A friend's mom used to steam live crab at home, and she would always, adorably, apologize to the crabs and thank them for the food they provide before sticking them in the pot.  Taking her cue, I did give silent thanks to the creatures that gave their lives to feed our bodies and souls that day.

With the sometimes isolating, "A-B" destination driven car culture in LA, I really love places where you can not just go to grab a meal, but can make a day of.  Redondo International Boardwalk really was great for that - after our seafood feast, had a great time strolling the boardwalk checking out other restaurants and bars, and enjoying the sun and sand (such a beautiful day, 86 degrees in *October* - this is why I love SoCal).  Many others seemed had the same idea. Those inclined to further activity - there are also water cycles you can rent by the marina, and a 'nostalgic' arcade for families.

Our last stop of the day was for a Churro (1 for $2, 3 for $5) - made fresh daily at at least 2 storefronts on the boardwalk.  The simple stick of warm, fried, cinnamony, sugary dough - enjoyed over gorgeous views of the open Pacific - was a great way to close out the day.

All in all, a fabulous time with fab friends - hope to see  you again very soon, Redondo!

[For 60 photos from the seaside adventure, check out the album on my Facebook page!]
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Redondo Beach International Boardwalk 
Quality Seafood
130 South International Boardwalk, Redondo Beach, CA

Parking: $5 maximum all day in structure directly behind Quality Seafood, $0.25/15 mins at meters on Catalina (time limit: 4 hours max, old school coin-op, bring quarters)

Website: qualityseafood.net
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WP24 - High Altitude 'Modern Chinese' in DTLA

With the abundance of authentic, affordable Chinese cuisine within 30 minutes' drive in the San Gabriel Valley, what, you ask, would possess someone actually from Hong Kong to visit Wolfgang Puck's 'modern Chinese' spot, WP24 in DTLA?  I had been craving fine dining Chinese, had heard great things about the place from trusted sources, and when an acquaintance invited me to dinner there - I decided to give it a shot, cautiously optimistic for potentially inspiring takes on Chinese cuisine.

Towering above the steadily gentrifying hub downtown around the L.A. Live / Staples Center area - WP24 sits on the 24th floor of the Ritz Carlton hotel.  The view at night is certainly spectacular - from either the lounge or the more formal dining room.  The setting almost does remind me of high-rise fine dining in Hong Kong.

The patrons in the lounge and dining room are distinctly different - reflective of the decor of each. Whereas the lounge is chic but casual, the dining room is formal and caters to a more upscale, older crowd (mid-late 30s and up). 

As everyone else in our party wanted to try the tasting menu, we were seated in the dining room.  When ordering from tasting menus, WP24 requires that they be ordered by everyone at the table, which makes sense for the flow of the meal at the table - so we finally settled on the 6-course one.  At $140 per person this menu pained me physically - but I went with it since everyone else wanted to go 6 (2 wanted to go 10-courses, but there was no way I was going to pay $170 for Chinese food that I can get at Michelin star quality in Hong Kong). So first tip of the day if you're going to eat in the dining room is, make sure there is consensus among those at your table before going in - otherwise you might end up with a much larger bill than you anticipated.

But I kept an open and optimistic mind, and we seemed off to a good start when a series of four amuse bouche arrived (these actually initially confused us because they were so generously portioned that we had to ask our server whether these were other people's starters delivered to us by mistake).  The  “Several Tastes of Good Fortune” consisted of lobster/crab spring rolls wrapped like wine bags for a nice presentation, foie gras bao, spiced lamb fried balls and prawn toast. All were tasty, but the foie gras bao (bread bun) of course stood out the most to me, as an interesting small but significant twist on the dish that is usually served with peking duck (and indeed it came witih all the garnishes you would normally see with peking duck).  The rich, buttery lobe of foie went surprisingly well with the fluffy steamed buns.

First up after the amuse was “Hot & Sour” Soup with Sweet Prawn Wontons, Fresh Peas, Micro Basil, Fried Ginger and topped with garlic flowers.  This was WP24's interpretation of hot & sour soup, which semed more like a 'mash-up' of all the traditional Chinese soups together: starchy hot & sour + seafood soup + wonton soup + egg drop soup with corn.  It was an interesting and tasty mix, but not mind-blowingly innovative in concept or flavor.

Next was Today’s Dim Sum Plate - featuring Chive Crystal Dumpling, Dan Dan Dumpling, Tiny Dumpling, Scallop Sui Mai, and Suckling Pig with Quince-Apple Puree.  If this was the first time in my life I'd ever tried dim sum - I might have enjoyed the novelty of this plate and the bite-sized little dumplings and cheong fun (rice noodle roll).  But because I've had 'real' and really mind-blowing, exquisite dim sum in Hong Kong (and at Yank Sing in San Francisco) - this plate was a complete disappointment.  Creativity and technique were both absent from this plate. Almost all of the dumplings were standard fare, and overcooked - inside and out - with the seafood much too firm, and the wrappers not much better in texture.  At this level and price, the scallop/crab etc. should taste incredibly fresh, with its natural sweetness and ocean flavors coming through with each bite.  Instead, the dumplings were overall too firm and bland, with the exception of the cheong fun (rice noodle roll) that had a pepper slaw on top which added some single-note heat.  The suckling pig was also on the dry side and did not have the signature crispy skin.

The first entree sized dish was Live Maine “Angry Lobster” with Spicy Szechuan Chilies, Fried Garlic, and Black Bean Dust.  This was served with a bowl of Lop Cheung Sausage Fried Rice for the table. This too, failed to impress as it did not bring anything new to the table - just another traditional Chinese preparation, poorly executed. The lobster was plated table-side, as Chinese restaurants would typically do, and two of us furthest away from the server could tell even from a distance that the lobster was overcooked - the meat had a turgid quality that we could see from 10 feet away. We wanted the sauce to be a bit more clean and sophisticated - but it tasted slapped together, and was slathered thickly onto the lobster - completely smothering any hope of us tasting its presumed freshness and natural flavor.  The fried rice lacked 'wok air' - the fragrant 'heat' that comes from cooking on a nice hot wok which releases the flavors of the food.  It was more...just overwhelmingly sweet without the distinct 'perkiness' of well cooked rice.

Just from reading the menu, the course I most looked forward to was the Whole Roasted Duckling “Peking Style” with Stir-Fried Fall Mushrooms, Snap Peas, Scallion.  Peking duck is one of my favorite dishes - even as a kid I appreciated the balance of yieldy meat/juicy fat/crunchy scallions and those savory flavors interlacing with the sweetness of hoisin sauce - and all the goodness of that combo soaked up in a warm, pillowy bao (bread bun). WP24 sticks with tradition in this dish as well, bringing out the whole roasted duck for viewing before serving carved pieces on plates with steamers of bao and a plate of garnishes including Stir Fried Fall Mushrooms, Snap Peas, and Scallion.   This dish made up a bit for the faltering of the preceding ones - it was an admirable effort, not the best Peking Duck I've ever had, but a decent and fairly delicious attempt.

There was one dish that night that our table unanimously voted as a favorite, and it wasn't really Chinese: Grilled Lamb Chop Lacquered with Coriander-Pickled Ginger Sauce, Fresh Chilies & Aromatics.  This was served with Spicy Chow Fun, Fragrant Thai Basil.  We liked everything about the dish, from the enticing presentation, which seemed more artful than the others, to the incredibly juicy, tender texture and finally great interplay of flavors coming from the rings of different sauces around the meat.  The chow fun (thick, flat noodles that are stir-fried with minimal sauce) was forgettable and didn't really go with the lamb dish, which seemed more of a western preparation with sauces using eastern ingredients.

 

As a pre-dessert/ palate cleanser our next course was Lychee Yuzu Sorbet with Coconut “Explosion”.  This basically consisted of a scoop of lychee yuzu sorbet, and a coconut spherification served on a spoon.  Both were refreshing after the intense flavor of the lamb course and served as a good transition to dessert.

Our dessert course was Sweet White Corn Fritters served with Pandan Ice Cream, White Chocolate Corn Pudding, and berries.  I actually really enjoyed parts of this dish - especially the corn fritters, which were lovely, fresh sweet corn in fresh fried dough - and something I've never really had before.  All at the table agreed that the other elements of the dish did not come together in a coherent way, but seemed like 'dessert chop suey' - a mish-mosh of disparate ingredients thrown together with no apparent point of view.  For example, in theory, we get the sort of play with corn - having it in the fritter, then putting it also in popcorn form with the caramel popcorn kernels piled beneath the ice cream.  But on the plate, they just didn't go together and the popcorn was stiff and awkward to eat along with the ice cream and fritters and berries and pudding.

We finished out the meal with a complimentary Cookie Plate - deconstructed fortune cookie, and other traditional cookies (I think they were almond?).

All in all, I was not happy to have paid Michelin-star prices for a meal that didn't in my view aspire in general to deliver anything more than traditional Chinese fare, and did not even execute those dishes at fine-dining level.  Is it unfair to compare this outpost of LA Chinese fine dining to masters in their country of origin?  Yes, probably.  But even without that measuring stick, the quality of our meal in my view did not justify the $140 - I would have much rather spent it on 5 satisfying meals in the SGV (albeit without the view and ambiance), or a really mind-blowing one from Providence.  And, unlike other restaurants that have chefs of a culture not reflective of the featured cuisine, where they are using the cuisine's flavors and ingredients and being inventive and interpretive with it - so that at least you get to experience something new via their perspective - WP24 seems to for the most part just take the traditional preparations and 'introduce' them to guests at inflated prices.

I do wish for more fine dining Chinese food in LA to shift the view of Chinese only as greasy food served in chaotic, loud, hole-in-the-wall spots or staid parlors - to show that it can take a seat at the table of esteemed culinary artistry as well, as it does in Hong Kong. WP24 gets it right in terms of venue - but unfortunately the food that night left me wanting.

Food aside, the true draw of WP24 is the venue - the view is truly incredible at night - and they do offer a daily Happy Hour 5-7pm with a 3-course prix fixe menu for $24, served in the lounge only.  For that deal, I would return - to the lounge.  Otherwise, for my money, next time I want Chinese I'm going to forgo the curiousity with western interpretations, and sticking with the SGV.


On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 4 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 5 bites
Price - $$$$$ (5 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 60% (for Happy Hour)


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WP24
900 W Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, California 90015
Ph: 213.743.8824

Website: wolfgangpuck.com
Look for reservations: Opentable.com
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Perch - Paris Meets Manhattan in DTLA

From the moment I heard about Perch, I had been dying to go check it out.  Something about rooftop dining, in a bloom of greenery amongst concrete/glass skyscrapers, sounded amazing to me.  It reminded me of Manhattan, or Sevva in Hong Kong, a little bit of home.  But with a French twist.  So basically perfection, towering high above Pershing Square. 

Last weekend, 'Designer' and I decided to head over on a whim after the Korean BBQ Cookoff.  We were in 'day wear' - jersey dress / shirt and shorts - and smelled like we just came from a BBQ, so drinks / dining outdoors in a chic but casual space - just minutes away from Ktown - sounded great to us. 

It was a fabulous adventure from the start - Perch is located at the top of the historic Pershing Square Building, which has an amazing vintage vibe, with a welcoming gold-gilded, glass chandeliered lobby.  We had to take two sets of elevators to get to the restaurant, both of which felt as vintage as the building itself.  The first one was marked with a gold bird silhouette plate next to the button for "13" - which launched our already overactive imaginations into overdrive - hardly any buildings have "13" anymore, thanks to longstanding superstition, and the combination of the unlucky number with the slow-moving vintage elevator triggered thoughts of Being John Malkovich.  We half expected the doors to open out to a 'half' floor, where we would have to crawl out through a low-ceilinged hallway to the second elevator bank.

But alas the 13th floor was full-sized, and we were greeted then escorted to our next ride to the 15th floor.  Perch, we learned, occupies two floors - the restaurant and bar is on the 15th, and a open-air rooftop bar with amazing 360 degree views of downtown LA was on the 16th. 

Our excitement to experience the space was deflated when our hostess let us know that the restaurant was booked full for the night, and the 16th floor reserved for a private party. 

Ever the optimists though, we decided to go for drinks at the bar, enjoy the ambiance of the space and go for a quick look around while putting our names on the waitlist in case of cancellations.


The bar/ lounge was beautiful, even tucked inside the building.  The designers definitely spared no expense with attention to even the smallest detail - everywhere you looked, there was some exquisite embossed wall panel, rustic table or chic amber chandelier that exuded Paris through and through.

We parked ourselves at the bar, where bartenders styled with a 20s/30s look greeted us warmly and asked about our drink preferences before proceeding to create delicious off-menu cocktails for us!  It was a hot day, so I wanted to start with something refreshing and light - and got a cucumber-mint gin drink - that I unfortunately can't remember the name of but that was fantastic.  Designer got an Aperol Spritz (with prosecco and aperol).

As we were finishing our drinks, the hostess came up to deliver great news - they had a table open up, but we could only have it for two hours, and did we want it?  Did we want it?  We practically leaped off our barstools.

They gave us an incredible table on the rooftop terrace that stretched along two sides of the bar/lounge area, with breathtaking views of the surrounding art deco / sleek glass structures.  We were in love with the place before the food ever arrived.

We noshed on baby baguettes, churned butter and olive tapenade while perusing the menu. 

Our eyes lit up while going down the list - though light in its first weeks, it had some unusual offerings that really fit the French theme.  I wanted to try more of the things that are hard to find elsewhere, so I went with a few small plates.  The first of these was the Shake N Bake Drumsticks ($10) which were buttermilk marinated frogs legs with lily root and garlic chips, and a Calvados honey glaze.

I was so excited to try this, as I grew up eating frogs legs cooked the Chinese way and love seeing how it's prepared in other cuisines (and of course the French are famous for theirs).  The Cantonese words for frog are 田雞, which if you take the words individually, translate literally to "field chicken" - and chicken is very much what the legs usually taste like, but with much more intense flavor, juice and a lot skinnier and more veiny. 

Perch's presentation of the dish with uniquely shaped lily root chips was great, and we loved the crispness of the batter coupled with the juicy, yieldy meat underneath - though we wanted the flavor of both the batter and frogs legs to be a bit more pronounced.  I think the flavor was intended to come from the honey glaze, but the small dots of it on the plate were so thick and sticky that they weren't really conducive to dipping.

To go with our meal, we ordered a second round of cocktails - this time I went for something on the menu, a Fancy Navel ($12) with Cognac, Creme de Peche, lemon, OJ and fresh muddled peaches, jalapenos.  This was slightly too syrupy and bitter at the same time, and I definitely liked the first off-menu cocktail much better.

 





Next up was Roasted Bone Marrow ($16) - I had been disappointed a few times with the way bone marrow was prepared at other restaurants (way too oily), but for some reason was in the mood to give it another try.  And Perch didn't disappoint - this was probably the best dish of the night, with the bone marrow nice and fatty but not oily, with a unique consistency that was not quite creamy but almost like softened butter.  This was great spread on the slabs of melba toast that came with the dish.  For accompaniments, there were braised plums, elephant garlic, fleur de sel and wild rocket.  The plums to me were much too thick, sticky and chewy, but designer liked it and thought it went well with the marrow, adding sweetness and a slight tang.

Apres, there was the Duck Duck Goose ($9) three mini clubs layered with seared duck breast, apple wood smoked duck bacon, gooseberry jam, mustard frills, roasted tomato on pain au miel (honey bread).  This was unfortunately one of the biggest disappointments of the night - should have been named, Duck, Duck, Sucker.  I was expecting juicy fatty pieces of duck with a nice char from the seared crust, and had looked forward to the taste of the duck bacon, where fat would again be key. 

I got a plate overrun by dry toast, with pieces of duck that verged on undetectable, except for the fact that it was almost drier tasting than the toast.  The duck bacon fared no better, but was denser in consistency and reminded us of jerky.  There were perhaps two small cherry-tomato sized roasted tomatoes that didn't really taste farm fresh.  I really wanted to love this dish, but could not bring myself to.  That said, I know it'd only been a bit over a week since opening, so have hope that the kitchen will work out the kinks soon.

The entrees on the menu were pretty much all slabs of meat - which suited Designer just fine.  She was torn between the filet and the short ribs dish - and at our super friendly and fantastic server's encouragement she decided to go with the Boeuf Bourguignon Deconstruit ($29) - braised short rib, thumb nail carrots, pork belly, candied garlic, potato lace & chives.  An uber-carnivore, it says a lot that Designer enjoyed the veggies on the plate far more than the meat.  This was the other big, and much more pricey, disappointment of the night.  Braised short rib is usually soaked in flavor, and so tender the meat should fall away with a light flick of the fork.  This was more like well-done steak that looked like it was rare (in color).  At least Designer really did enjoy the vegetables.  With so many places doing great short ribs around the city, in order to compete - especially at the hefty price tag of $29, Perch will really have to up its game with this one (unless they want to just trade entirely on the views from the terrace).

We decided to skip dessert due to the disappointment with some of the other dishes, and that the descriptions of the offerings from beignets to pot de creme to apple tart did not really inspire us. Also, we thought we could come back another time for just drinks and appetizers, or dessert if they step up their game as they get into their groove. And we loved that our server took the time to get our feedback on the meal, stating that the kitchen is really looking for honest opinions so that they can adjust accordingly, since they had just opened.

As we were getting ready to leave, we got our second piece of great news - the private party that was occupying the top floor (with 360 degree views) has mysteriously been cancelled, so we were free to visit upstairs!

The rooftop bar offered fantastic views of the DTLA buildings, and seemed like a great place to hang out with a date or with friends - especially at night with a symphony of lights in the distance, and firepits and heat lamps casting warm glows over the seating areas. A petit, cozy bar with two bartenders is tucked into one corner by the stairs.





All in all, an amazing space that to me seems to marry in the best way, iconic qualities of Paris and Manhattan, vintage and sleek, old world and modern.  It's instantly become one of my favorite scenic spots in LA. 

Also loved the all round fantastic staff and service as well.  Looking forward to returning next time I want to venture downtown for drinks, appetizers and perhaps even a full meal again further down the line, when the kitchen finds its groove.


On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5.5 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 5 bites
Ambience - 6.5 stars
Service - 6.5 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$$ (4 bite marks mains)
Probability of return visit - 100% (for drinks & appetizers)

[For more photos from Perch, check out the full album on my Facebook page]

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Perch
448 S Hill St, 15th & 16th Floors, Los Angeles, CA 90013
Ph: 213.802.1770
Parking: In open-air lot across street for $6
Website: perchla.com
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Yamashiro Farmers' Market: Free Fun Fusion Thursdays

Yamashiro is one of those LA landmarks that I've somehow never made it to in my 15 years here.  Though I'd heard of its legendary views in the hills above Hollywood, its prices were of an unreachable altitude for me as a student, and then when I started working there were so many other places which had more irresistible appeal to my inner foodie, and I had to pick and choose based on budget.

But I am a fan of farmers' markets, and when I found out about the one Yamashiro hosts Thursday nights (April to September) - albeit a year late, this is their second year - I invited 'Designer' to check it out with me. 

There were several things to love about Yamashiro's Farmers' Market, even before we ever set foot on the property:

It's one of the few NIGHT markets  - running 5-9pm, the timing is convenient for those who want  to access fresh produce during the week but have day jobs (I have yet to make it to Santa Monica's Wednesday Farmers' Market).  There's always the original Farmers' Market on 3rd and Fairfax, but strolling through the permanent structure just doesn't feel the same as your weekly 'event' markets.

FREE parking and shuttle the word "Hollywood" usually conjures thoughts of "parking nightmare" - and Yamashiro is conscious of this as well as challenges with access to its hilltop location.  So they offer free parking in a lot just off Hollywood and La Brea (at 7107 Hollywood Blvd), with free shuttle service up & down the hill.  This past Thursday, the lot was full as I drove past, but I easily found meter parking a block south on La Brea (free after 6pm).  It was then just a short walk to the lot to catch the shuttle. 

'Designer' overheard the best description of the journey up the tree-lined, winding road to the market from a fellow rider - it felt like a 'field trip'!

We loved the street / food fest vibe of the market - with its 20s/30s crowd milling about, getting wine & beer while perusing the produce and food offerings - bonding easily with strangers over their finds or shared seating at the makeshift tables and chairs lining the length of the terrace overlooking the city. 

We'd heard about the awesome food, with a well-curated collection of vendors and food trucks (including Heirloom LA and Coolhaus last Thursday!) but were most excited to try Yamashiro exec chef  Brock Kleweno's offerings at street food prices. Yamashiro's Market Grill menu had us drooling on sight - it was all we could do to restrain ourselves from ordering the entire list!

Since short rib is now ubiquitous though, we decided to go with the more unique sounding fusion tacos: Black Cod with miso sake marinade ($6) and Duck Confit with blood orange and agave salsa ($5).  You could watch the chefs - including Chef Brock - prepare your food from the open grill at the tent.  Both fusion tacos were amazing, tender, juicy and flavorful, each served with crazy addictive (and free!) sides of Wasabi Guacamole and Pickled Shishito Peppers.  Easily my favorite fusion street tacos. 

I LOVED the wasabi guacamole while Designer was a huge fan of the peppers.  We could have had a meal just of these!  We hustled back to the taco stand before they closed for second rounds of the cod tacos, and when I told Chef Brock how much I loved the guac he was nice enough to give us extra dollops!

Had the guac been for sale I would have bought a bucket full - and was thrilled when Chef Brock said they are thinking about starting to offer it for sale!!!!

We were so obsessed with Yamashiro's food that we didn't really get to peruse of the other stalls after we started in on the food - but they had some fun ones from jewelry to loofah vendors.

Which brings me to the other cool thing about Yamashiro Farmers' Market - the element of the unexpected.  That day they had tweeted an invite for people to "check out the Wolves" and to "Hang out with them above the Pagoda Bar".  I and some other folks at the market thought they were talking about a live band.  When we found out they meant actual, live animals we could pet and play with in the terraces above the market, we had to make a stop there!

Though we weren't entirely sure of the thematic connection...could it be to spark thoughts of being "hungry like a wolf"?...it was for a good cause, their special appearance was in support of a wolf sanctuary to raise awareness and funds.  And I had been trying to train myself recently to stop looking for reason and logic in everything, to stop living in my head so much and just to go with the flow - live in the present to enjoy it. This was one great example of that.  The wolves were beautiful, gentle and adorable. One sleepyhead snuggled against its trainer, while another named "Maya" was at first shy, but when encouraged by her trainer turned friendly and came up to us for head rubs.  We had a fab time playing with and taking pics of the wolves, who were sweet as puppies - loved them!

And last but not least, Yamashiro ("Mountain Palace" in Japanese) is known for its spectacular views, which didn't disappoint.  We sat down at the benches to admire the view at dusk, with lights glowing from buildings below.  Couldn't believe it took us this long to 'discover' this place!

Peaceful and relaxing, it almost felt like we were on vacation - though we should have brought warmer clothes as it got a bit cold once it started getting dark. 

With all the cool/fun stuff happening, I actually forgot about fruit / veggie shopping! D'oh! I do remember the prices, at quick glance, being comparable to other farmers' markets - a bucket of cherries for example was $5, same as at Studio City Farmers' Market.

Before leaving (last shuttle leaves at 10pm) we wandered into the restaurant to check it out.  Built by German brothers in 1914 as a private estate to house their finds from "the orient", which has since evolved to restaurant and public gardens - it definitely doesn't give off the same aura of authenticity (as much as you can get in LA) that Gonpachi boasts of in terms of architecture / decor / vibe, but if you take it for what it is - a historic tourist attraction, that does offer a very LA experience for those who want to sip asian-inspired cocktails with respectively themed names and typography, or enjoy CalAsian fare over amazing views, Yamashiro is a great venue for a night out with friends, private events, or a date depending on who you're with.

For those who want to experience Yamashiro without paying Michelin-star prices - Farmers' Market, which just got named one of the World's Top Night Markets by Travel+Leisure, is a must every Thursday 5-9pm now through September.  Be sure to stop by the ATM first though as the Yamashiro Market Grill is cash only.  I know I'll definitely be back for those tacos and wasabi guac/or just for a refreshing local getaway for a few hours during the week!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark Yamashiro Farmers' Market Grill menu)
Probability of return visit - 100% 

[See more photos from Yamashiro Farmers' Market at my Facebook page]
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Yamashiro Farmers' Market
Thursdays 5-9pm
1999 N. Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, CA 90068
Ph: 323.466.5125

Parking: Free in lot at 7107 Hollywood Blvd, with free shuttle service to market. Also free meter parking after 6pm on La Brea.

Website: yamashirorestaurant.com
Twitter: twitter.com/YamashiroLA
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