Plan Check Kitchen + Bar: Day & Night

That stretch of Sawtelle Blvd. north of Olympic is best known for all kinds of Japanese deliciousness from sushi to curry to tsukemen.  Along comes Plan Check, tucking neatly into the end of Little Osaka's restaurant row - next to the Building and Safety Department, where the city's architects, engineers, developers and designers funnel through each day in hopes of securing permits for their plans, and which provides the inspiration for its name.  The marketing blueprint for the seeming square-peg-in-round-hole restaurant? Small plates "inspired by traditional American classics", rye whiskey cocktails, and premium beers.

I'm not a big burger fan, but this one seemed...different, maybe.  With my day job now on the Westside, I'm excited to check out a whole new set of lunchspot options - and couldn't wait to see what all the buzz was about (Twitter was aglow with rave <140 character reviews even during soft open).  So I was excited when a co-worker agreed to go with me on official opening day.  But, knowing it wouldn't be kosher to have midday cocktails, I invited fellow Tweeters miffyeats and munchabout to do dinner with me as well, so that I could get the comprehensive daytime and nighttime experience!  Let's break down the meal - both day and night - by elements:

Experience: Check.  Though I loved the industrial, raw-ish looking interiors, we decided to sit outside on the patio, since it was a gorgeous, sunny LA day.  When we sat down, the server gave us paper placemats, that he hand-stamped with the cocktail list.  Ostensibly like a checker at the Building and Safety Department next door would date stamp a plan submitted for review?  Some might see this as gimmicky, but we saw it as a nice touch that draws immediate attention to their specialty cocktails, crafted by Pablo Moix of La Descarga and Harvard and Stone fame.  Approved.

Libations: Check.  My daytime beverage of choice was Ice Tea plum infused black tea, honey syrup ($3).  Burgers may be the stars that get the most virtual 'ink' at Plan Check, but I would be remiss if I didn't take a minute to rave about their version of the humble iced tea.  I haven't seen many (any) places in LA, that aren't Asian, that serve iced tea with syrup on the side.  It's either table sugar (which, duh, for the millionth time in the decades that the drink has been served here - DOES NOT BLEND INTO COLD TEA) - or sickeningly sweet flavored teas like raspberry or mango, all made with artificial tasting syrups saturated and inseparable from the tea.  Iced tea is one of my favorite drinks when in Hong Kong for the simple beauty of the fact that EVERY place uses / serves sugar syrup, in the right amount, with it.  So that it blends in, and you don't have any crunch of unmelted sugar granules in your tea, just a lovely amber smoothness that is refreshing on a hot day.  Duh.  I am sure there are places that serve it with sugar syrup, that are not Asian - but I just personally have not encountered one before Plan Check (please do let me know if you know of one!) So I was impressed that Plan Check serves theirs, yes infused but very lightly with natural tasting, subtle plum flavors AND honey syrup on the side as sweetener.  And yes, sugar cubes in case of people who can't break free from routine.  Approved.

Burger Construct Bending Burger: Check. Pastrami Nosh double smoked pastrami, swiss cheese, kimchi mustard, pickles, fried egg ($12) I LOVED this at lunch that first day.  It's a burger that pays no attention to rules and regulations when it comes to what constitutes a burger.  Pastrami between buns instead of slices of rye bread?  Why not? And presented in Canadian-bacon-thick slabs versus thin deli slices? Great.  Add a fried egg ON TOP of the burger to make it even more evocative of breakfast than lunch?  Awesome (love breakfast any time of day, especially when you're not supposed to have it).  My only note is that they either forgot to give us the kimchi mustard on the side, or it was in there and we couldn't really taste it.  Too bad as I was excited at that creative fusion element.  Otherwise, loved the juicy, bacon-like pieces of pastrami with the perfectly fried egg, thin and crisped buns, served in a cute little cast iron skillet. Approved.

Classic with a Twist: Check. Bleuprint Burger smoked blue cheese, pig candy, fried onions, steak sauce, peppercress ($11) The classic blue cheese burger, with steak sauce instead of the good ole ketchup and mustard, candied bacon, and some gourmet greens to elevate the stash.  Juicy delicious and all kinds of umami between fresh made, light and fluffy bun.  Approved.

Sticks and Tallow to Break My Bones: Check. Fresh Cut Fries skin on kennebecs, beef tallow, smoked salt, fresh ketchup ($5) I LOVE fries with skin still on.  Plan Check has 'em.  And cooks them to a perfect crisp, in beef tallow (rendered fat).  We inhaled these like there was no tomorrow.  I would come back for many things, but these fries alone would be enough.  The side of ketchup also has flavors that remind me of cocktail sauce, a fun twist that adds to the instantly addictive deliciousness. Approved.

Plan Check by Day?  100% approved.  I couldn't wait to check the place out at dinner.

For our nighttime excursion, we chose to sit inside, and got a booth seat fairly easily on a Wednesday night.  They also have a fun long wooden communal table, for a night when you're feeling friendly.

Libations (by night):  Check.  Tropic Thunder jalapeno infused kanon vodka, mango, lemon juice, sugar ($10) this was beautifully layered, with fresh citrus, sweet (tropic), lent depth by bit of heat from the jalapeno infused vodka (thunder). Loved that you can get this level of sophistication in a neighborhood small plates place - and it definitely (with my limited exposure to the area so far) fills a void in the Sawtelle area.  Well done, Pablo.  Approved.  

Embellishments: Check.  Stuffed Mushroom roasted portobello, swiss cheese fondue, crispy kale, steak sauce ($8) The main courses we had at lunch were fantastic, and at dinner - with more stomach room, it was time to squeeze in a side.  The tenderness of roasted and incredibly flavorful portobellos, blanketed by melted swiss cheese, are counterbalanced by crispy bales of kale - and kicked up a notch with steak sauce, not commonly used with this dish but makes all the sense in the world once  you taste it. Approved.

Namesake Burger:  Not approved. PCB (plan check burger) akaushi red wagyu beef, americanized cheese, ketchup leather, savory onions, mixed pickles, crunch bun ($10) I'm fairly predictable in my attraction to the unusual - and this burger, with it's "ketchup leather", was what I originally wanted to get at lunch, but didn't end up trying til dinner.  Our daytime server had explained that the ketchup leather concept came out of thinking how all the stuff in a burger that makes it good (and juicy) usually soaks through and makes for soggy bottom, which is no good. Ketchup leather is a savory fruit roll-up that prevents that by providing a non-absorbent layer between the fixings and the bottom bun.  We found that it didn't have much flavor, and the fruit roll-up consistency, chewy and slightly waxy, didn't provide a good mouthfeel.  The rest of the burger didn't provide anything out of the ordinary and wasn't mindblowingly delicious as a classic.  Not approved.

Consistency: Not approved.  I enjoyed the Pastrami Nosh so much the first time that I wanted miffyeats and muchabout to try it.  Unfortunately the one we had at dinner, just a week later, did not live up to the first time.  The pastrami was chunkier and dry, and the fried egg was sort of more rubbery, bread was thicker and less crisp.  Granted, it was still first week of opening and it was busier than our lunchtime visit (though not full capacity until later on at night).  Since I work close by, I'd go back again once they've had a chance to get into their groove - I loved this burger that much at lunch.

Living Up to the Hype: Check. Southern Fry smokey fried jidori chicken, spicy green pimento cheese, duck breast ham, pickles ($10) This fried chicken burger was a Twitter crowd fav - and the best bite in my opinion that evening.  The chicken was so juicy, tender, and full of chicken flavor (I know that sounds ridiculous but it's NOT a given, the way most kitchens make chicken makes me not like chicken - it's as tasteless as what I would imagine styrofoam to be).  And was perfct paired with a spicy, sour, crunch of pimento cheese and pickles.  Also loved that duck breast was mixed in - two fowls do make a right.  A really fantastic piece that lives up to the hype.  Approved.

The Sweet Finish: Check.  Cruller Donuts cooked to order, cream, fruit ($6) I was intrigued when I saw this on the menu - everyone view things through their own filters based on experience, and in mine, cruller meant the giant fried dough sticks that Chinese people eat for breakfast with their congee (rice porridge) or cut up and stuffed into rice noodles at dim sum.  Apparently cruller just means any twisted, fried dough pastry.  Plan Check's are basically donut-shaped churros - possibly the best churros I've ever had.  Warm, soft, fluffy, hot out of the oven, and thick enough where the ratio of sugary, cinnamon-spiced crispy exterior is in perfect ratio with the piping hot, yieldy interior.  All served with the lightest whipped cream and fruit (in this case, bananas).  Yum with a capital Y.  Approved.

Plan Check by Night? Conditional Check.

All in all, a strong start for Plan Check based on the two meals.  There were hits and misses, but overall some good food for not too bad prices. It's great to have a gourmet burger option in the neighborhood, where you can have a great cocktail with your burger, served up in a cozy bar/restaurant setting that isn't scenestery (like Umami in Studio City).  I'm torn between giving it more time to ramp up, and wanting to make the most of the neighborhood gem before it gets crazy crowded - they don't take reservations. 

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 90% ___________________________________________________________

Plan Check
1800 Sawtelle Blvd., Los Angeles, CA
Ph: 310.288.6500

Parking: Meters on Nebraska

Website: plancheckbar.com
Twitter: plancheckbar ______________________________________________________________________

 

25 Degrees - "Bordello Meets Burger Bar" 24-7 at The Hollywood Roosevelt

25 Degrees - To some, it's just 'that bar in the corner' of the historic Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel.  Entourage fans may recognize it, unknowingly, as the backdrop for Season 6 key art.  To others still, it's the only place to get a decent gourmet burger at any time of day or night - and a place that kitschy 'retro' diners could only aspire to be, when they grow up.

I had a fabulous time at Chef Tim Goodell's other restaurant in the hotel, Public Kitchen + Bar, for brunch a little while ago - so was excited when I was invited to a media dinner at 25 Degrees recently.

Photo courtesy of 25 Degrees / Wagstaff

The place is described as "bordello meets burger" - with the sophistication of a wine bar and the ease of a burger joint - style that is reflected in its velvety, lush interiors in sexy burgundy, espresso and black,  balanced by a laid back vibe befitting its 'smart casual' menu. 

Despite its location, 25 Degrees is not all about appearances though.  Chef Goodell raises the bar on the burger with careful attention to each element that goes into it - sourcing high quality ingredients from the patty (natural, no-hormones added chopped sirloin beef from family-owned ranches) to a brioche bun baked fresh daily at Ca'd'Oro with the chef's proprietary recipe, and an artisanal cheese selection, the majority of which come from Cow Girl Creamery.

Photo courtesy of 25 Degrees / Wagstaff

Burgers are made to order either in pre-designed combinations, or you can construct your own by choosing from a list of meats, veggies, cheese, sauces (13 sauces at last count!) and delicious toppings from standard bacon to green chili or even sauerkraut.

Wisely forgoing gimmicky names in favor of focus on ingredients, house-made burger offerings are listed on the menu simply as "number one" "number two" and "number three" ($12 each). 

While all three sounded great, I was drawn to "number two" by key words "burrata" and "prosciutto" (accompanied by pesto and roasted tomato).  With the burger fad that has raged through LA, and Umami at the forefront, that is the natural, instinctive first comparisan to draw when assessing flavors.  Perhaps it is a result of clever marketing, or maybe it is truly in the interplay of ingredients, but for me Umami does have the advantage when it comes to complex interactions that triggers experience of an undescribable "fifth taste" that is instantly addictive.  I didn't get this with the 25 Degrees burger, and the patty I received was unfortunately cooked 'well done' where I had requested 'medium rare'.  But "number two" was definitely a great juicy, tender, well-made burger with a perfectly pillowy bun - the ratio of meat to bread was also just right.  Everything tasted fresh and deliciously rustic, and you could almost imagine that you were eating this on a farm where everything was made from scratch that day, using only items found in their backyard.

25 Degrees had also planned to introduce a "number four" burger - made with yellowfin tuna, butter lettuce, crispy fried onions, and spicy aioli - we didn't get to try it that night but I hope to go back soon for a taste!

Besides burgers, another main attraction at 25 Degrees is its drink list.  There were several interesting cocktails, but - because there's no topping Matt Biancaniello especially when he is just across the hotel lobby at Library Bar - the showstoppers are really the spiked shakes.  They were the creamiest milkshakes so rich you can have them for dessert (which we did) - AND they give you a nice buzz!  Their signature spiked shake, which others at the table loved and raved about, is the Guiness Milkshake ($8), but being not at all a beer fan, this one didn't appeal to me.  It was the Bananas Foster and Night Owl (each $12) which caused love at first sip for me.  Bananas Foster is made with fresh bananas, spiced rum, Myers Dark Rum, butterscotch schnapps and vanilla bean ice cream (this may be my new fav way to get my daily serving of fruit and dairy...), while Night Owl, a new addition to the menu is made with a luscious combination of Kahlua, Godiva dark chocolate liquer, fresh vanilla bean ice cream and housemade chocolate sauce.  You might say, $12 for a milkshake seems excessive - but really as a dessert + cocktail (and a giant glass of it!) it's a pretty good value.  And they are both is so addictive I'm still thinking about them, weeks later. 

[Unfortunately the shakes are not part of their Late Night Happy Hour (Sundays-Thursdays 11pm-1am), but other alcoholic beverages are - cocktails are $7, well drinks $6, house wines $5 and beers $4.]

Spiked sodas are also supposed to be added to the menu soon, with Orange - stoli oranje/salerno blood orange liqueur/orange soda /OJ, and Cream Soda - maker’s mark/vanilla liqueur/ginger beer ($12 each).

Aside from burgers and shakes, 25 Degrees also offers a shortlist of salads, apps & sides, and sandwiches.  We got to try the fries, sweet potato fries and onion rings ($4 each), all very tasty with the plethora of dips (lemon dill, garlic aioli and chipotle were my favs).  I don't usually like salads, but really liked the Heirloom Tomato one ($12 full size / $7 half size), a unique combination of heirloom tomatoes and watermelon plus fromage blanc and tomato vinaigrette, a really refreshing dish that was all kinds of crunchy, juicy, tangy, and subtly sweet deliciousness!

So, the name of the restaurant actually refers to the difference in temperature for cooking between medium rare and well done.  After a fabulous evening tasting from the food and drink menus, my conclusion is that 25 Degrees is both medium rare AND well done.  In a town over-run by burger-mania, 25 Degrees sets itself apart with its gourmet approach and upscale yet fun, laid back setting, and defies the odds - especially in Hollywood - by delivering quality food & shakes over 'scene', and doing it 24-7.

Tastefully done indeed.

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While I wait to try the Ahi Tuna burger, 25 Degrees was kind enough to share their recipe.  Those who cook - enjoy! ;)

"Number Four" Burger Recipe

Ingredients:
6 lbs. ¼ Inch Diced Saku Tuna
¾ c. Parsley Minced
½ c. Mayo
½ c. and 1 Tbl. Gouldens Mustard
1 ½ Tsp. Wasabi Paste
2 oz. Brunoise Red Onions
2 oz. Soy Sauce
1 oz. Pickled Ginger Minced
1 ½ c. Panko (japanese bread crumbs)

Blackening Spice Ingredients: (Mix all together)
¼ c. Paprika
2 Tbls. Dried Oregano
3 Tbl. Salt
2 Tsp. Sugar
2 Tsp. Cayenne
2 Tsp. Black Pepper

Preparation:
Mix first 8 ingredients together, form into 6 oz. patties.

Dust with blackening spice mix and dredge in panko.

Saute patty in a nonstick skillet with olive oil until browned on both sides.

Serve on a toasted burger bun with fresh lettuce and crispy fried onions.

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On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5.5 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%
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25 Degrees
The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel
7000 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90028
Phone: 323.785.7244

Parking: Valet with validation $6 for first 3 hours, $2 for every additional half hour. (Or park across the street at Hollywood & Highland - $2 first 2 hours w/ validation from any purchase at stores in the complex, $1 for each additional 15 mins.)

Website: 25degreesrestaurant.com
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*Sorry all the photos are PR shots - my camera (and its operator, actually) is not good enough to take photos in the dark...

Umami Burger - Fifth Taste Finds Foothold in Fifth Location

By now, anyone who is at all into food in Los Angeles knows about Umami Burger, brainchild of Adam Fleischman.  Named for the almost onomatopoeic Japanese word that describes the savory taste imparted by an amino acid, and ribonucleotides that occur naturally in foods, Umami as a taste is "subtle" but blends with other tastes to "expand your (dining) experience" - Umami as a restaurant / bar on a high traffic stretch of Ventura Blvd in the Valley is anything but.

With its sharp black, white and red themed decor, Umami Valli makes no attempt to blend in.  It may be a relatively small space with a narrow door front, but with its starkly chic design, full bar, and street front open patio barstool seating, unlike its more laid back siblings (love the Space15 Twenty location), Umami Valli is quite deliberately a place to see and be seen.

Not one to go for the 'scene', I had driven past on several occasions hoping to catch a late afternoon meal these past two weekends - but the lines were always so long they spilled out all over the curb in front of the restaurant. I would take one look, decided I didn't want to spend 2 hours on a sunny Saturday / Sunday afternoon waiting for a burger, and kept driving.

But with an unusually large block of happy 'nothing' on my calendar on either side of lunch today, I decided to give Umami a try, leaving a bit early and dragging along my coworker "Sawyer" (yes, named after my fav character from Lost) in hopes that there would be less of a (hipster) crowd on a weekday. 

We arrived just a few minutes after noon, and found a spot at the meter mere feet from the restaurant, immediately.  With that great start, we walked up to the place with fingers crossed - though there were barstool seats available outside, it was too hot at lunch, so we opted for indoor seating and were promptly given the last open two top inside (score!). 

I ended up loving the cozy interior with white marble tables, sleek black walls and fixtures, glittery chandeliers and red plush barstools lining the counter at the bar.  And yes, the much written about random stuffed swan is there to preside over the front bar area.

We started out with Arnold Palmers (though there were beer floats on the menu - unfortunately we realized we had to go back to work at some point!) - which turned out to taste like all lemonade, from a fountain, so not impressed on the non-alcoholic beverage / service front ($2.50). 

But on to the main reason we were there - burgers.   Sawyer had intended to order 'something healthy' (i.e. veggie burger), but after hearing the special, decided on the Spicy Bird burger with pepper (?) aioli and onion fries ($11).  Cooked medium rare, this was tender, juicy but just ever so slightly too spicy.

I of course had to have the Truffle Burger ($11) with house-made truffle cheese and truffle glaze.  This was also super juicy and had just the right bun to patty to cheese ratio.  It wasn't the most mind-blowing burger I've ever had (not that I've had many /any burger that has really blown my mind...), but good "fine dining fast food", and infused with enough truffle flavor to cause most of our meal to be conducted in silence (silent except for sounds of shameless, double-handed face-stuffing).  I haven't tried The Counter, a few doors down from Umami Valli yet - so will have to wait to report on that for comparisan.

To round out the meal, we tried the off-menu Cheese Tots ($4.50?) - Umami's version of tater tots but bigger than bite-sized, with cheese baked in.  Not a fan of these as all we could taste was salt - the potatoes were otherwise bland, and even the umami ketchup, infused with truffle, did not help. 

Will I crave Umami day and night like I do with Aroma Cafe and the truffle pizza from 8/12 Taverna, both just down the street?  Probably not.  But this Umami location is one of the few decent restaurants open daily until 2am in the area - and with yuzu and jalapeno on the cocktails menu, I would be interested in coming back both for dinner / drinks after work, as well as to check out other items on the menu for weekday lunch (when we have time to have a leisurely lunch) or late night dining.

As we left, there was a crowd lining up outside the restaurant again - judging by the amount of traffic it's been maintaining over its first weeks, Umami Burger's 5th location seems to have found a solid foohold in the depths of the San Fernando Valley.
 

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5.5 bites
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 5 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 90%______________________________________________________________________

Umami Valli
12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 818.286.9004      
Website: umamiburger.com/umami-studio-city

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