Showing posts with label Top Chef. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Top Chef. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Final Days of Foie in California: A 7 Day Diary

There are two ways to deal with things we don't understand.  Medicate it, or eradicate it.

That seems to be the conventional 'wisdom' of our time.  It takes too much effort to ask the hard questions, to get at truth behind issues and to come up with/ implement true resolutions.  So much easier just to go in for the fast, cleanly accredited fix and soundbite.

Not feeling well? Take a pill. Kids are overweight? Forbid anything with sugar. Vegans and animal rights activists bugging you about some obscure food that won't impact the majority of the voting public, definitely not enough for them to mobilize at the polls? Forget regulation - just kill it.

But the thing with taking the easy way out? It always comes back to bite you in the end. It's not always as simple as a pill, what else is going on in someone's life that's causing issues? If you don't get to the root of these issues, what happens the minute they stop taking medication? Are kids really overweight only because of what they eat at school? Or could at least part of the reason be that they have become less active, with technology taking over where physical activity was once the norm (ooh, do we need to ban technology then?), and by taking free will and the option to make good decisions out of the equation - what happens to their diets when they are not in school, will they see the forbidden as an even sweeter and more coveted prize? You got the vegans and PETA activists off your back on foie by giving them their legislation, do you think that's the last you'll hear from them? It's just the beginning of the anti-meat agenda.

I am neither lawyer nor vet - but are there not animal rights 'abuses' in the food system that are far more pervasive and dangerous to both animals and humans than foie that deserve priority in legislation and enforcement or at least regulation (i.e. feedlots and that chicken egg salmonella scare a few years back with more than 550 millions eggs recalled)?  Why are those not being addressed? In a state with $16 billion deficit, and over 1 million Californians unemployed, why were resources being deployed to address such a, in the grand scheme of life, frivolous cause?


Does passage of such legislation, limiting choice in an arena that does not justify the politicization, without scientific proof of claims - bode well for democracy or the ability to conduct our private lives without nanny state / big brother intervention?

And now that we are days away from enforcement of a law that has already passed in their favor, do people (especially government officials) really have nothing better to do than continue to protest about that same issue? (Hey, how about the budget deficit, education, or traffic congestion/alternative transportation(carbon footprint)? That affect human quality of life? Lives of all of your constituents?)  Is this in part some reflection on their inability to be effective (or latch their lives) on any other (worthier) cause? Is it simply easier to continue to beat a dead horse so they can feel some sort of victory over putting one small artisan producer out of business (vs impotence when faced with magnitude of well funded industries with broader support like chicken or beef)?

Arguments of lack of gag reflex and expansion of natural migratory (overfeeding) patterns aside, is it not more respectful to take a beak to tail approach to a food animal, respecting its sacrifice by not wasting any part of it?  And, since foie is a luxury item that fetches a premium price, it is a fact that foie producers have a vested interest in ensuring ducks/geese have high quality of life in order to produce a high quality liver. 

With that soapbox venting speech said, it's encouraging to see every day heroes step up in and out of the kitchen - and to hear that, like Chicago before us, there may be hope in ways to circumvent and hopefully eventually overturn this madness.

In the meantime, foie lovers around the city are celebrating the inimitable, endlessly versatile ingredient one last time - those who can't afford the $180 and up all foie tasting menus can still get their taste a la carte.  Here is my countdown to #Foiehibition:

T-7: ANIMAL  435 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles 323.782.9225

Foie Gras, Biscuit, Maple Sausage Gravy ($25) Animal is a foie fan favorite that has drawn crowds, in these final days, willing to wait upwards of two hours for a seat and a taste.  This dish is pure genius - mixing things that you would think are too rich to go well together but goes perfectly.  A gorgeous, buttery smooth generous lobe of lightly seared foie sitting on top of a thin, buttery crumbly biscuit and rich, creamy gravy riddled with bits of juicy maple sausage. I will miss you.


Foie Gras Loco Moco, Quail Egg, Spam, Hamburger ($36) - elevated take on a Hawaiian staple, pairing high and low ingredients: foie with spam, quail egg with humble hamburger and rice.  Beautifully presented with dots of sriracha for bit of heat and scallions for color and crunch.  Loved this.  You will also be missed.

Veal Tongue, Smoked Foie Gras, Pastrami Spices, Crab Apple ($14) - such an original and beautiful creation.  Art on a plate.  This was the least expensive of the three dishes I tried but probably tied with the Foie biscuit & gravy for my favorite.  The foie is made into a mousse that sort of has the consistency of ricotta cheese, and served with the most amazing tongue I've ever had - veal tongue with the texture of oxtail and spiced to taste like pastrami.  With the sweet-acidity of pickled crab apple to cut through it all nicely, burnt mustard on the side for flavor enhancement, and dehydrated pumpernickel toasts beautifully arranged atop the quenelle of foie, as if it was ready to take flight.  A fitting, gorgeous way to send off a beloved ingredient.

T-6: WATERLOO & CITY 12517 Washington Blvd., Culver City 310.391.4222

Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Armagnac Prunes, Brioche ($19) - Waterloo and City is one of my favorite places to eat in LA - offering accessible, affordable gourmet in a well designed but laid back gastropub setting.  And they serve amazing Hudson Valley foie - in an adorable mason jar, with a topping of jellied prunes, and brioche on the side.  Underneath the prunes, is foie in its purest form - I love these like I love the purity of fresh shucked oysters, with their pristine taste of deep, untouched ocean. This foie similarly has that amazing, pure untouched taste and unparallelled, luscious fresh aphrodisiac texture that truly justifies the foodie-phrase-du-jour: foodgasm.

Smoked Eel & Foie Gras Terrine, Picallili, Soy Gastrique, Brioche ($14) - Waterloo and City is known for their charcuterie, and this inventive pairing of smoked eel and foie in terrine is creative and delicious, with an interesting mix of smoothness and soft crunch.  Carrying on the Asian flavors evoked by eel, soy gastrique is used as condiment for a bit of acidity to cut through the richness of the proteins. All served with a lovely side of cornichon and pickled onion and brioche toasts.

Beef Wellington ($27) - a British classic, and a blackboard special that day, with a filet steak dressed in foie, then wrapped in puff pastry and baked.  This one, I didn't love - the meat was a bit too thick and chewy, and (caution: here comes the food snob) didn't taste as flavorful as grassfed beef usually does.  I also thought the way foie was used as coating for the dense brick of a steak sort of wasted its unique, luscious texture.






T-5: Mezze  401 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles 310.657.4103

Foie Terrine, Saffron, Pistachio, Grapefruit  ($24) - Mezze's melding of mediterranean dining traditions and flavors with 'California marketplace' inspiration meets with classic french foie here, beautifully.  A perfect moon of smooth, creamy foie terrine at just the right density, its rich earthy flavors perfectly balanced with the lightest of saffron jellies, and gently tart, juicy sections of grapefruit, and crushed pistachios for crunch. This was a gorgeous, artful plate that brings to mind Keats' famous words: "beauty is truth / truth beauty / that is all ye know on earth / and all ye need to know". 
I know pistachios are a med-cuisine staple, but it's also iconic to California - and this pairing of foie with pistachio, for me, come July 1st - is going to be like that one memory that summarizes your relationship with that one ex you can never get over - we were so happy together (in the mind of the lover), foie and California, but it just wasn't meant to be.  You can repress and learn to function like a normal person again, but you are walking around with a giant piece of you missing, something you'll have to learn to cope with daily.  Is it sad to hope that someday we'll be together again?

T-4: ink. 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles 323.651.5866

Foie Gras, waffle, smoked maple, hot sauce ($23) Michael Voltaggio is genius.  I don't know if I'm way off the mark, but this dish to me tasted like Summer, with flavors and textures that evoked ice cream (waffle fragments atop thin creamy slab of luscious foie terrine), bbq (specifically, buffalo wings - with the smokiness from treated maple cream and dots of orange hot sauce) and campfires (smoked maple was served with a marshmallow-y consistency, making me think of s'mores!).  The last blissful summer with foie. 

This was such an amazing dish, I got two of them - in the same sitting.  Because I could, and very soon can't anymore. Summer of Foie nevermore, Lenore.

(If you go and sit at the bar, ask for Gabriella, she made me an awesome off-menu cocktail that tasted like it was made to go with foie.  It was loud and hard to hear what exactly was in it, but she did show me the bottle of vermouth that was used - Floc de Gascogne Laubade.  Get your last foie and vermouth pairing at ink. before time runs out.)


T-3: Petrossian 321 N Robertson Blvd West Hollywood 310.271.0576

Petrossian was on my list of must-stops in the last week before the foie ban is enforced - primarily for the mindblowing foie gras ice cream served with the tenderest, fluffiest flat-bread-like brioche and fresh raspberry jam, that I'd had once before and fell in love with.  I had to have a last taste of that, and decided to splurge on one full tasting menu here: Farewell to Foie, 5-courses for $100 (more affordable compared to others around town!).

Course 1: Summer Berry Gazpacho Armagnac Poached Foie Gras, Pickled Beets - this was a beautiful and original way to serve foie, with fresh sweet-tart softly crunchy berries paired with sour also gently crunchy pickled beets, to balance with the smooth, buttery blocks of poached foie gras - served in a cold berry 'soup' that's poured over the lot, at the table.  Was sad I wasn't quick enough with the camera to catch a shot of the ingredients pre-pour.

Course 2: Asparagus Salad black summer truffles, little gem baby lettuce, truffle jus vinaigrette, foie gras ravioli - this was a clean, relative light dish of radiant earthy flavors, combining two of my fav ingredients on earth: foie and truffles.  Lovely light bites for a second course. 
Course 3: Seared Foie Gras cherries, mint, pistachios - it's hard to beat the natural, indescribable texture of foie.  And sometimes it's at its most beautiful served simply - as in Waterloo & City's foie in a jar, or Petrossian's seared foie.
A close-up shot of the inside of that lobe, so you can see the perfectly even sear with the rich unadulterated buttery creaminess underneath.  I die every time.  And the sweet acidity of cherries and crunchiness of pistachios goes perfectly.

Course 4: Prime Flat Iron foie gras, onion, fines herbs, fresno chili - this dish was not my favorite, probably as I'm not a huge fan of red meat, and I was in the mood to enjoy foie at full blast before the ban - foie was sort of an embellishment versus the main attraction in this dish, and the steak was a little tougher and less flavorful than I expected, even at medium rare.  But the portion size was incredly generous, and you would definitely not need to hit up another restaurant after this tasting menu (as you might at other fine dining places, where you're barely getting a few bites from each plate). 

Course 5: Foie Gras Ice Cream brioche, raspberry jam, sea salt, honey - it's testament to the versatility and irreplaceability (yes I think I just made that word up) of foie, that it can be served in every way from simply seared to terrines to soup to sauces - over and in anything and everything - and even in dessert.  This is probably my favorite foie ice cream that I've ever had - not only is it lush, gorgeously creamy and fresh, every element that accompanies it is perfect.  It's basically a super sophisticated ice cream sandwich, but instead of cookies the scoop of foie ice cream is cradled in a flat-bread-like brioche that is incredibly soft and fluffy, served slightly warm to contrast with the chill of the ice cream, punctuated by natural sweetness of the freshest tasting raspberry jam and crunch of crushed peanuts, a hint of sea salt and bit of honey for light sweet finishing touch.  If you haven't tried it yet - I highly recommend you do this before July 1st.  This is the foie dessert I will miss and mourn the most.

Aside from the tasting menu, Petrossian does offer a la carte foie dishes that are available through June 30th: Goose Foie Gras with black truffle, port wine, pepper ($38), Duck Foie Gras with Black Truffles, armagnac, Perigord seasonings ($32), Duck Foie Gras, Armagnac, Perigord Seasonings ($28) and Pate & Charcuterie Plate with duck salami, duck rillettes, duck & pork pate with orange, duck & duck liver port pate ($22).

T-2: Gelson's  locations citywide

Trois Petits Cochons Mousse de Foie de Canard au Porto ($7.99) - I had an awesome Happy Hour with coworkers this night, but it went on for 4 hours which meant it was too late to go to any good restaurant that served foie.  But, I remembered that Gelson's sells these lovely (for chain grocery) duck liver and pork mousse with port wine! And realized I still had time to stock up so that I could still have foie in July! Thank you Gelson's!!! 


T-1: Waterloo & City (round 2) and The Royce at The Langham 
W&C: 12517 Washington Blvd., Culver City 310.391.4222
The Royce: 1401 South Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena 626.585.6410

Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Armagnac Prunes($23) - yes, I went back to Waterloo and City for their foie in a jar.  It was still my favorite foie (taste and deal wise despite the $4 per jar increase on that last day before the ban) in the city.  The second time round the texture was different though - less raw foie like, more dense and terrine like, but so thick it was more like the consistency of a stick of butter that had been in the fridge for a while. Still amazing in taste, but I preferred the raw, softer, oyster-like texture of the first round.  Still it was one of my favs, and I got two jars - yes two - to get my fill before it's no longer legal to get out in the open like this.

Roasted Halibut, Clams, Foie Gras Sauce ($29) - Waterloo & City had a daily special, just for that last night before Foiehibition, with a beautifully roasted fish with clams stuffed with soft cubes of potato and fresh peas - all bathed in foie gras sauce.  You really can use foie in pretty much anything. 

I still love it most in rawish/seared/terrine/ice cream sandwich form, but this was a lovely dish as well.
The Royce: I waddled in, under the weight of my own liver which is fatty from the indulgence of the past week, for the most 'fine dining' experience of my week - in a beautiful hotel (yes in dreaded Pasadena but nonetheless a very nice one), and a chic, upscale dining room that wouldn't be out of place in a high-end Vegas hotel on the strip, or a high-end mall dining venue in Hong Kong.  In celebration of foie, chef David Feau was offering foie '30 Ways in 3 Days' - and you could make your selection from 30 preparations of foie starting at a minimum of 3 dishes for $75.  Since this was my second dinner, I went for 3 courses. At my server's recommendation, I started with Seared Foie Gras, Lobster with fava beans and eggplant caviar - this was my favorite of the three:  the lobster was way overcooked as to be very chewy, almost tough, which was a waste, but what was important that night was the foie, and the foie was perfect - evenly seared top and bottom, with a pure, unadulterated, yes, unctuous center.
Close up shot of the interior of that gorgeous foie, because I want to remember it (as one tear drips down ma face...)
On the verge of food coma, I didn't get a chance to take a shot of the menu so these may not be the proper names that I'm listing here...but my second dish was Foie Gras with Quail and Squab  - I was looking forward to this one as I love quail! And bird organ on bird 'steak' sounded like a winning combintaion. The quail came in a baby 'filet' cooked rare - and I enjoyed it with the luscious lobe of foie on top - but it wasn't mindblowing, definitely not of the caliber of the foie-stuffed-quail at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon.  I wasn't impressed with the squab 'drumstick' either - I wanted it to be more juicy, tender and flavorful.  And whatever was in the sauce and foam didn't do much for the dish either.
Foie Gras, Chocolate Sauce, Orange - this was supposed to be a week of celebrating the best of foie, so the last thing I was is negativity.  But, I also have to be honest, and this dish was one that I could only take one bite of.  The server highly recommended this as the best of the foie desserts, and the one that I'll leave remembering.  I'll admit I may be affected by this being my second dinner for the night, but this felt way too rich as to be unbalanced - the thick, dark, pungent chocolate sauce was overwhelming when paired with the hefty piece of foie.  The orange was I'm sure meant to cut through that with its acidity, but I really could not get beyond that first bite.  So, not the best way to finish out the last night of legal foie in California (I should have listened to Sinosoul and gone to Papilles!) - but nonetheless, glad to have had the experience and no regrets about not having tried the infamous foie menu at The Royce.

T-0 aka D-Day: July 1st Foiehibition is now in effect, and foie gras is no longer legal to be produced or sold in the state of California.  I'm glad I have leftover terrine and pre-purchased foie mousse to tie me over for a few days.

The true impact of this on culinary tourism, the ability of the state to attract new high-caliber talent, and precedence for government intervention in civil liberties, remains to be seen.  The hopeless optimist in me hopes for the law to be overturned, as it was in Chicago before us, and with the Prohibition before that (though of course, alcohol has many, many, far more vocal and well funded advocates than foie). 

Til then, lovers of foie and freedom, please support C.H.E.F.S. in their fight for sustainable and humane farming practices - a longer term, real, non-Fahrenheit 451-esque solution.

Sunday, June 3, 2012

The Coop Part Two: Memorial Day BBQ Brunch

Chefs Marcel Vigneron and Haru Kishi threw a brunch so good it felt like sin, this past Easter Sunday.  So when they announced that they were doing a second holiday brunch - Memorial Day weekend - under their emerging pop-up brand "The Coop", I was excited to see (1) what they would come up with to reinterpret that classic, all-American barbecue, and (2) if they plan to 'own' holiday pop-up brunches.  Especially since we ran into each other at a recent UCLA Science and Food lecture (the chefs were also spotted at Nathan Myhrvold's talk, where he spoke specifically about modernist bbq techniques) - I wondered if they would take any inspiration from those.

Another reason I was looking forward to the event?  It was to be held again at the so-gorgeous-it-can-reduce-you-to-tears Gonpachi space. 
Gonpachi the restaurant has folded, but the space, with its authentic, imported Japanese architecture and interiors, and lush greenery surrounding a serene koi pond, that on the whole make me think "zen temple meets tea house meets spa resort" is too amazing to let go to waste - I'm really hoping that either Chefs Vigneron and Kishi, obviously fans of the space, would take it over permanently at some point, or some other high caliber chef would come in and revive it, keeping the space exactly as is but infusing it with compelling fare that will draw diners and enough profit to sustain it.  (I was so excited about this second The Coop event, with incredible guilt I reserved with the blog email in hopes it would up my odds of getting in, given how packed it was last time as well!) 
Now that I've said my piece about the space - onto The Coop experience.  This was again to be a 5-course brunch ($42 per person this time), again with cocktails by Devon Espinosa. I don't know at what point it become de rigeur for me, but now I physically cannot have brunch without a cocktail. So my friend JK and I were both drawn to the Kentucky Punch Bourbon ($12) buffalo trace, lime juice, cucumber, mint - which turned out to be light, refreshing and was a perfect accompaniment to an indulgent meal of meats and other deliciousness to come. Just to try a different drink though I had Spiked Picnic Tea ($12) for my order, made with grey goose, passion fruit tea, lemon juice, strawberries.  I wasn't a fan of this one as it was simultaneously too sweet and too bitter - and I generally don't love pink drinks and hadn't expected this one to be one. Wish I had just gone for the Kentucky Punch Bourbon as well - at least JK shared a sip so I could taste it!
When it came to food, The Coop kicked off with a simply named 1st Course: PB&J and Compressed Watermelon Wedge, but what arrived was a clearly inventive plate.  The picnic food became, in Marcel & Haru's hands, an open-faced brioche toast topped with spherified pomegranate and blueberry puree, and peanut butter crumbs that we're guessing was flash frozen and then ground up.  The textures were a delightful surprise and skillfully executed as to be perfect for the first course - I especially loved that the peanut butter, usually a heavy goop, is so light and airy yet packed with distinct flavor, and that the spherication was a refreshing, clean, crisp burst of fruit and tartness versus the familiar sugary sticky mess, all counterbalanced by the squares of toast, cut at just the right size and thickness to serve as canvas and foil for the other elements. The chefs definitely know how to announce their arrival. 
On the other end of the plate: Compressed Watermelon Wedge these beauties were instantly addictive - they were compressed with cherry blossom infused vodka and lemon puree (so we were advised by our server).  We thought we tasted fleur de sel too, there was something crunchy on top that went perfect with the juicy slices.  Loved these too - that's 2 for 2 just in the first course! 
Onward went the march into 2nd Course: Buttermilk Fried Chicken Sandwich, cole slaw, Hawaiian roll - there was no visible modernist wizardry here, but it was a simply freaking awesome chicken sandwich that we wanted 10 more of, immediately.  It was just so juicy and flavorful, with perfectly even breading all around, and an extra juicy crunch of cole slaw between subtly sweet Hawaiian roll buns.  So good. The Hawaii reference on a holiday meant to pay tribute to American soldiers, held in a Japanese space - could be seen as tongue-in-cheek, or equally, a respectful bridging of two formerly opposing sides, across time, with soul-healing food and its power to connect. Or it could just be that the rolls went really well taste-wise with the chicken (yeah I've been told I have a tendency to overthink everything :P)
3rd course: Binchotan Baby Back Ribs, Chorizo Baked Beans these ribs were perfectly portioned, fall off the bone tender and beautifully charred.  Binchotan it turns out is Japanese white coal made from oak, and doesn't release smoke or odours, making it a good choice for yakitori chicken.  Which the chefs used to cook the pork ribs.  Interestingly the plate came with a wedge of lemon - but I don't think we ever figured out if that was for the beans or the ribs.  I put it on my ribs and the citrus added a nice layer of tart juicy-ness. 
Then came the course inspired by Nathan Myhrvold's lecture: 4th course: "Slow and Low" Beef Brisket, Kentucky BBQ Sauce, Smoked Potato Salad chef Haru was kind enough to stop by our table to introduce this dish and explained that, inspired by Myhrvold's insights into best way to barbecue meats for maximum tenderness and retaining juices - they cooked this brisket slowly and with low heat - over, in fact, three days! To me the tender texture kind of reminded me of oxtail. Paired with the Kentucky *bourbon* barbecue sauce, it was perfection - I don't think either of us looked up til there was nothing left to lick off our plates.

Chef Haru also brought out the Smoked Potato Salad which was possibly the most dramatic presentation of the meal - the salad came with a glass cover filled with smoke, like the mysterious haze inside a movie gypsy's crystal ball, which only slowly reveals the contents below once the smoke dissipates.  And we loved and enjoyed every morsel of this salad too - with its fingerling potatoes, freshest tasting peas and ribbons of onion sprinkled with delicate leaves of green and shallots.  Interesting that they went smokeless with the meat, and instead used the smoke in the salad.
And for the sweet finish: 5th course: Corn Bread, Maple Cloud, Bacon Ice Cream, Candied Pecan this was a nice, simple, not groundbreaking but well executed dessert set.  Everything was just the right portion: I loved the little bite-sized cornbread with the maple marshmallowy dollops on top, and the candied pecans were perfect with the subtly flavored bacon ice cream.  Again I loved their attention to detail: the serving dish for the corn bread was shaped like an ear of corn!

All in all, score another coup for The Coop.

Thank you chefs for another amazing, and very memorable, holiday brunch!  Can't wait til the next one (July 4th perhaps?!)


 
On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% (whenever they have their next pop up!)
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The Coop BBQ Brunch at Gonpachi

Saturday & Sunday, May 27th 2012
134 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90211 

Twitter: @marcelvigneron 
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Tuesday, April 10, 2012

The Coop: Rising to the Occasion Easter Sunday

Whatever you may have thought of Marcel Vigneron, the character on Top Chef, you can't deny that he is an incredibly creative force.  Syfy's Marcel's Quantum Kitchen grew on me, for the sheer reason that there was more time to look further past that established persona - to see the inventive mind at work, to root for seemingly impossible food experiments to pull through in the 11th hour, to see the development of an individualist talent to a gradually improved team leader and chef on screen.  And the marketing geek in me loves it every time he's given a challenge and pulls off incredible dishes that are cerebral and perfectly on theme.
I was actually sad not to see a Season 2 of the innovative show, but happy to see that Chef Marcel's catering company is alive and well and thriving...and when I heard that they were doing a pop-up Easter brunch (albeit, late - like at 4:30 in the morning, the morning of the last day of the pop-up...) in one of my favorite venues in LA - the now shuttered Gonpachi - I had to check it out. 
The concept was "The Coop": a 5-course brunch focused of course on the humble - but in the hands of Marcel and event partner Haru Kishi (most recently of Chaya Venice) - limitless holiday icon, the farm fresh egg. All for the unbelievable (for fine dining) price of $38! 

And true to form the theme was meticulously carried through down to every last detail.  (Even though they only had literally 3 days to pull the whole restaurant together!) Loved the little decorative touches like a pink egg sitting in a tumbler of hay.
Devon Espinosa, mixologist extraordinaire - also last seen on Quantum Kitchen (and since moved on to .ink and now Pour Vous) - was on hand with a themed list of 'cock'tails to kick off the meal.  I couldn't resist the devilishly sacrilegous Blood of Christ ($12) on an early Easter Sunday morning...though the description of ingredients should have told me otherwise (beef eater gin, orgeat, strawberry, pastis), I think in my mind I was envisioning some variation of a Bloody Mary.  What arrived was pinkish, light and refreshing, and more of a girly drink than I expected, with a giant strawberry as garnish.  So much for my plan of devious defiance!
More sacrilege was to follow though, in the form of unrepentent gluttony.  The first course was Truffle, Gold, Egg.  Which arrived in an eggshell, with a straw.  Which would be the first time in my life I've had to suck eggs through a straw.  And I loved it.  Inside the delicate eggshell was the most ethereal scrambled egg espuma, topped by fragrant truffle infused egg white, then gold leaf.  A refreshing start to the meal, in concept, presentation, texture and taste.
I was fortunate enough to sit at the bar, where Marcel was personally preparing the dishes, and I got a front row view! Look at that concentration!   
The second course of Salmon and Fried Egg Sauce was also beautiful - and here you can see much more Japanese influence: a gorgeous slab of lush salmon, cooked and cured in lime juice and vanilla bean, sat on top of nori puree (that also contains caviar powder, Marcel remembers at the last minute), fried egg sauce with pickled daikon in the shape of cherry blossoms, with compressed kumquat and compressed radish for textural contrast and lovely bursts of tart/bitter to counterbalance the savory/sweet/sour of the other ingredients. And some micro basil and coriander flowers for garnish to evoke the spring.
Third course was another fusion dish that blossomed from Japanese roots: Tiger Chawan-mushi, or steamed egg with tiger prawns, and split pea soup on the side.  Served in an adorable ceramic box topped by a white bunny!!!  Again, loved the attention to detail. 
But, right, back to the food: the steamed egg was enhanced with dashi, a clear broth made with seafood from lobster to shrimp - and topped with deliciously fresh peas and bite sized chunks of tiger prawns.  Simple, clean and delicious. I could have done without the split pea soup, which I was advised to pour over the egg - to me it was too heavy and its taste drowned out the delicate flavors of the chawan-mushi. But, that's all part and parcel of risk-taking - sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, but it keeps things interesting and I'm still glad to have tried it.

Apparently the chefs saved the best savory course for last: Nesting Egg with Hay Smoked Bacon.  Suffice it to say: Mind, blown.  It's a dish of simple ingredients, but the creative execution is what makes it oustanding. With a meal of day that is not known for innovation - Chef Marcel succeeded in coming up with the most creative preparation of eggs and bacon I've ever seen/tasted.  What appears to be thin noodles are wrapped around a soft-boiled egg and fried, so that it evokes a bird's nest (pretty much like the Chinese banquet favorite).
Chef Marcel explained that he wanted to bring the egg back to the nest at the end of the meal, and that's where the concept came from.  Love the thought process that went into creating this - and it wasn't just a cool concept - it was amazing in taste as well, with a perfect contrast of smooth, liquid gold center offset by stringey, crunchy fried shell.  So good.

The bacon itself didn't have a high concept attached to it, but I was interested to know the thought behind use of hay for smoking the meat versus more familiar items like applewood...turns out Chef Marcel had just run out of mesquite, but had plenty of hay that he had bought to use as decor (remember that adorable little glass tumbler with 'bed' of hay for the pink egg?).  So he tried it - it tasted good, so he went with it.  These sorts of MacGyver moments and creative problem-solving mixed with two parts luck were elements I particularly enjoyed in the Quantum Kitchen episodes as well.
For the sweet finish: The last course was Albion Strawberry, Sabayon and Bread Pudding.  The strawberries were fresh, and perfectly balanced between sweet and tart, and the bread pudding was fairly light and airy, which was nice - but overall this dish just didn't hold any surprises and didn't make that much of an impression.  But I guess everything is relative, so perhaps if the savory dishes hadn't been so fantastic, my expectations wouldn't have been so high for the dessert..and maybe I would have enjoyed it more...


All in all though, an inspired meal, and by the time I left the place it was full house (and Gonpachi is a huge space with 3 separate wings and an upstairs). A great meal that definitely renewed my faith for culinary creativity to continue to thrive in LA outside of 'organized/corporate kitchens' - flying in the face of naysayers, whose declarations that the pop-up is dead are thankfully ruled (at least in my blog) premature.

Thank you chefs for an amazing Easter!
 
On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6.5 bites
Originality - 6.5 bites
Ambience - 6.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% (whenever they have their next pop up!)
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The Coop at Gonpachi

134 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90211 

Twitter: @marcelvigneron 
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Sunday, October 9, 2011

Craft Los Angeles - dineLA Done Right

Craft restaurants have always been a favorite of "Ms. Sassy"'s - a perfect combination of consistently delicious food, lovely settings and staff who personify hospitality.  Whenever Ms. Sassy's birthday rolled around, we knew we would be in for a night of fabulousness - two years ago it was at Craftsteak in Vegas, this year it was at Craft LA on the patio. 

So naturally Craft popped to the top of the list when it came time for this year's dineLA - and it was one of the best experiences ever (thanks to Ms. Sassy for scoring us the best deal ever in the history of dineLA! More on this later! :))  I would go so far as to say that Craft should be the role model for others participating in Restaurant Week.

A few high-end dineLA restaurants had been mincing their deals, with lower-end offerings on menus that boiled down to "beef or chicken" dinners, and/or not offering dineLA deals on weekends when they'd rather fill space with customers paying 'full fare'.  While I absolutely understand the economics of this, I also know dineLA was designed to be a citywide marketing tool - the concept is to bring in new customers by availing them of a sampling of your offerings at an introductory price, for a very limited time.  So if you put out a menu that's going to put people to sleep, or make it hard for people to get to it, you might as well not do it at all - because you're (A) not accurately representing what your restaurant's about and/or (B) sending mixed messages / generating frustration versus goodwill by putting something out but making it hard for people to actually try it.  For the cost of presumably just ingredients and labor, you get the machinery of dineLA's marketing and publicity teams driving traffic to you - so wouldn't the smartest thing to do be to put your best foot forward?

Craft is an example of a restaurant that totally 'gets it' - and whom we expect to continue to rave about for years to come.  Here's how Craft shows others how to do it right:

Craft LA is usually closed for business on Sundays. But dineLA event dates run Sundays-Fridays.  So what does Craft do?  They offered their dineLA menu on Saturday, so customers who don't live/work in the area can still get a chance to enjoy the experience.  (Thanks Ms. Sassy for discovering this!) Class act. 

When we arrived, we got the same high level of service we always got at Craft group restaurants - with all the trimmings as well, starting the meal with an amuse bouche of polenta, celery, creme fraiche and a crunchy flash fried tomato.  And throughout the meal we saw the same exquisite level of attention to detail and many other pluses that made us fall even more in love with Craft.

The dineLA menu had listed three starters "for the table" - before we arrived I assumed that meant "choose one of the three" and we get to share that?  To our excitement, the server clarified that we get ALL THREE starters to share between the two of us!  And they seemed like full size starters to us!

The first starter was King Salmon Tartar avocado and spiced almonds.  It was a generously portioned plate of lush salmon with creamed avocado, counterbalanced by what I thought were heirlom tomatoes and spiced almonds for crunch.  Ms Sassy doesn't even normally like salmon, much less raw, but she enjoyed this one. 

Starter #2 was the Wild Arugula baby beets and smoked goat cheese - I don't normally love salads but thought the light arugula, punctuated by pickled baby beets and some crumbles of goat cheese for textural and flavor contrast, was a nice refreshing way to whet our appetites for the meal ahead.












Starter #3 was my favorite: Sonoma Pork Terrine Warren pears and purslane - terrines are typically rectangular slabs, but Craft presented them beautifully in thin rounds.  This dish was texture and flavor perfect - the interplay of well seasoned meat with rich, flavorful fat was elevated with a sweet/spiced pear mostarda and purslane.  I was sad that Ms Sassy didn't really enjoy this (only because she doesn't like pates in general) but happy that this meant more for me.  I scarfed down every last bite.

For her main, Ms. Sassy chose the Diver Sea Scallops heirloom beans and lemon - which came in a nice baby cast iron pan.  We ended up sharing all our plates so I got to taste this one as well - the scallops were perfectly seared with a crisp outer layer giving way to an interior that is so tender it could make you cry. (Yes, do note that you just get two scallops, so those with bigger appetites, take that into consideration) The heirloom white/purple beans were great as well for a nice texture contrast.









My choice of main was Rainbow Trout roasted market peppers & cilantro as I didn't want to repeat the scallop dish (on dineLA site they listed White Sea Bass) - to be honest, I ordered this with fingers crossed it would not just be a white fish filet with some veggies on the side.

I guess I forgot where I was - Craft would not do that to me!  The fish came SKIN ON, lightly seared to a crisp, the way I like it - and beautifully presented in a copper skillet.  My only note was that I would have wanted the roasted peppers to be just a tad less salty so that I can taste the natural flavors a bit more.  Otherwise a delicious dish.

In addition to all the above, we also got a trio of Side Dishes mixed and served in a baby copper skillet for the table - which featured roasted butterball potatoes, assorted mushrooms, and market onions

The potatoes were perfectly cooked and tasted like they had been marinated in the meaty juices of the mushrooms for days - the rich flavors were evenly infused.  The market onions' contribution was a nice counterbalancing sweet/slightly bitter bits of tenderness.

Dessert #1 was our favorite, Steamed Apple Pudding cider sabayon & braised apples.  This was a change from the posted dineLA menu (originally Butternut Squash Pie) but we weren't complaining - the 'pudding' was warm, soft, fluffy and cake-like, with a sweet caramel-ly syrup poured over and some I think graham cracker crumbs sprinkled on top so you get just the slightest bit of crunch with your 'pudding'.  The ever so slightly tart cider sabayon and thin half-moons of braised apple were the perfect finishing touches. This dish was too sophisticated to be comfort food - but it was definitely one that hits you to your core - food that tastes like it can heal everything that went wrong with your week before you set foot at Craft.
Dessert #2 was more playful, a Peanut Butter Semifreddo banana bread & chocolate (banana bread was unexpected bonus, not listed on dineLA site!).  The bigger orbs are peanut butter ice cream fried and breaded with a nutty outer shell.  The banana bread came in the form of baby muffins perched on a mound of melted chocolate that tasted to me like warm nutella.  Deliciousness all around!

To 'gild the lily' in a good way, we ended the meal with Mignardises - chocolate cookies and peach pates de fruit.

Though the dineLA items are not all on the regular menu, if you tried to calculate based on comparables and averages, you would be saving at least $22 per person with the dineLA deal.

AND because Ms. Sassy is savvy as well as sassy - she prudently submitted her considerable stash of OpenTable points for a voucher a bit after dineLA was announced. and received her $50 certificate just in time to apply it to our meal.  Our server ever so kindly accepted the certificate without any hassle, which brought our per person cost before tip to just under $26!!!! Definitely the best fine-dining meal deal ever!!!!

And to top it all off, with our bill our server also handed us each a bag of handmade, fresh granola to take home courtesy of Craft.  Then let us know where we can get our (self) parking validated (at front desk)!

(The restaurants referenced at the top of this post may say, wow that was a big revenue loss for Craft...but I would argue it was a big win: for returning customers like Ms. Sassy and I, it was a rewarding experience for us that continues to fuel affinity and loyalty - Ms. Sassy spends a lot of money each year on her birthday bash at Craft group restos, as well as dinners throughout the year, so this is her one savings event (done more for the benefit of this lil budget food blogger than hers - thanks Ms. Sassy!) that made us happy (and most importantly for Craft will keep the big-spender of the pair) coming back.  For new customers, having this experience makes them see Craft as a place that sets a high bar for themselves without the snobbery to their customers - and makes it more likely for them to convert into regulars, and to spread good word of mouth, the best form of marketing you can get (for a relatively low cost of just food and labor).  And I would hazard to guess that the $ spent on marketing and advertising year round far exceeds the $44 +$50 = $94 dollar per pair of customers converted during dineLA. But that's just my two cents, restaurants are going to operate however they want to.).

Thank you Craft for yet another wonderful experience - you're a class act through and through and we will see you again soon! 

[For other fab dishes at Craft LA, see photo album from Ms. Sassy's birthday party on my Facebook page]

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6.5 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$$ (4 bite marks regular menu)
Probability of return visit - 100%
 
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Craft Los Angeles 
10100 Constellation Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90067
Ph: 310.279.4180

dineLA - $44 dinner
Parking:  Self-parking in structure by 2000 Century Park E free with restaurant validation; Valet parking $8

Website: craftrestaurant.com
OpenTable: Look for reservations
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Craft on Urbanspoon

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