Somi Somi: Taiyaki Sundaes in Koreatown

Growing  up in Hong Kong, one of my favorite memories was after-school treats at the wonderland of a food hall, below an iconic Japanese department store called SOGO.  Among gleaming cases of artfully wrapped cookies, boxes of perfect rice cracker snacks, and stalls serving steaming bowls of ramen - was a magical grill from which they pulled out a fish shaped 'pancake' stuffed with red bean paste, and awarded it to my eagerly waiting chubby little hands like the greatest treasure in the world. I couldn't have made this analogy at the time, but looking back they were like dessert hot pockets, but fish-shaped on the outside with sweet filling on the inside

For many years as an adult in LA, I couldn't find this beloved snack ('taiyaki' in Japanese) anywhere - until I spotted it at a stall in the food court at Mitsuwa Torrance a few years back, only to have it abruptly replaced with takoyaki. Then, by some foodie wizardry it seemed, several dessert houses resurfaced taiyaki in a different form around the same time: as a base 'cone' for sundaes - maybe we have Instagram to thank for the quick proliferation of photogenic foods such as this - but several I tried were more about the photo opp than taste / texture. 

Then came Somi Somi, and their Ah-Boong ($5.95) served in made to order taiyaki cones. You can make your own sundae by choosing from organic ice cream flavors like True Milk, Green Tea, Banana, Chocolate, then selecting from filling options like red bean, custard or Nutella; or choose from set combos for the same price.

As a green tea fan, but also wanting to try their 'true milk' ice cream, I went for the preset Greenpuccino Boong with a swirl of green tea + milk ice cream, and red bean filling inside the 'fish cone'.  I also added Nutella, because who can resist Nutella ever?

Once the foundation is finished, you'll also get your choice of toppings from a tray of 4 (sprinkles, colorful cereal flakes, graham cracker crumbs, oreo cookie pieces), and the server will top the whole thing off with a bamboo skewer of strawberry and marshmallows.

The verdict?  It's always tough for modern versions of nostalgic foods to measure up to romanticized memory, but Somi Somi did a good job with the taiyaki - the dough is flavorful, but not too sweet, just the right balance of density 'chew' (possibly from mochi dough?) with lightly crispy exterior, and at the right size so that it's satisfying but not an overwhelming amount to work through - and it's easy to grab-and-go. 

The ice cream itself was smooth, light yet creamy and structured, so the texture was a thumbs up for me - but as for the flavor, I would have liked the green tea flavor to be more pronounced - though that's a matter of personal preference as I love green tea, with intensity.

I still liked the ice cream anyway, and all the components of the sundae worked well together - though if comparing to other green tea (and matcha in particular) ice creams around town it is not my favorite.  But I love that they do also offer the option to get the taiyaki without it (since taiyaki is really my first love from my childhood): Hot Fish Cone with Filling ($9 for 4 or 1 for $2.50). Somi Somi makes them in very small batches when customers come in, so that they pretty much always have fresh ones for you.

I've already been back twice in a week and will definitely be back again soon for both the sundae and the taiyaki on its own!

On a 7 point scale:

Flavor - 5 bites  
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience -  4 stars
Service - 5 stars
Overall experience - 5 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 

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Somi Somi
620 S Manhattan Pl #208-A, Los Angeles, CA 90005  (inside Madang Mall, 2nd Floor)            
Ph:  213.568.3284

Instagram: @somisomiicecream

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Hangari Bajirak Kalgooksoo: When You Just Want a Bowl of Noodles Made by a Korean Grandmother

Sometimes you just want a simple, steaming bowl of soup noodles, in a place where you can 'come as you are' both in terms of clothing and budget.  Say, when you're feeling under the weather, or you're saving for #bucketlist meals, or when you've just come from the gym/spa and don't have the energy/will to get back into full gear, hair and makeup.

I have a recent go to spot for such occasions, and it goes by possibly the world's most difficult-to-remember-name-to-non-Koreans of Hangari Bajirak Kalgooksoo.  Their specialty is fresh-made, hand-cut noodles (I believe the two final words in the restaurant name translate to shellfish hand cut noodles).  And it's conveniently located minutes from some of my favorite spas in Ktown, and in the same strip mall as one of my favorite bakeries in the area, Paris Baguette.

In terms of decor, the place is definitely no frills, but in a very comforting way, whether or not it's actually family owned, I'm not sure - but it gives off that vibe like it's family run.

The servers are frazzled most of the time as the restaurant is constantly busy - but you get the feeling that they have a hard and sometimes spiny shell with a soft center. 

As for the food: it looks and tastes like something a Korean grandmother would make for her family - simple, fresh, and infused with TLC.  And at $8.95 for a giant bowl of noodles plus banchan (free, refillable side dishes), also an incredible deal.

Banchan, as with other Korean restaurants, are first to arrive.  They keep these simple too, just a few dishes including puffed rice, kimchi, and a miso sauce that packs an umami punch.

The star of the show is of course the fresh made hand-cut noodles: seafood is apparently the most popular version, and they also offer chicken, but given the namesake I needed to try the bajirak version (a shellfish from Asia that may translate to littleneck clams). 

I loved everything about this steaming bowl of comfort.  To borrow the Chinese way of praising soup quality: the broth here has 'clarity' and 'purity', which makes it very soothing and helps impart a feeling that it's good for your body and soul.  The noodles were structured yet impossibly tender, and also taste like they were just pulled together and cut minutes before they reached your table.

The surprising element to me was the addition of kabocha squash for a hint of sweetness, and a nice clean starchy crunch.  There were also chunks of potato to soak up the broth and become nice soft/crumbly flavor bombs, and bit of scallions and shredded seaweed for additional taste.

When you are sick, the mild flavors of the soup noodles will be just perfect - but when you are not, there are the handy side dishes of miso sauce and kimchi, which allows you to adjust for flavor according to your own personal preference (that miso sauce is so good I could eat spoonfuls of it...).

Can't wait to go back (too bad it's not open right now...I'm making myself hungry writing about this)!

On a 7 point scale:

Flavor - 5 bites  
Presentation - 4 bites
Originality - 4 bites
Ambience -  2 stars
Service - 3 stars
Overall experience - 4 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 

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Hangari Bajirak Kalgooksoo

3470 W 6th St., Los Angeles, CA 90020

Ph: 213.388.2326

Parking: $2 valet in attached open air lot at night

(Restaurant is a little hard to find - it's in the same strip mall as Paris Baguette.  Go to the opposite end of the mall from 7-Eleven and it's next to a bar/lounge - the one with green tables)

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Brew/Well: Case of the Addictive Chocolate Cake and Art of Tea (CLOSED)

Ever had a food that you literally dream about, and find yourself steering against that hypnotic voice on your GPS telling you to turn left, when your body knows better than to fight your cravings?

I'd never even been a fan of chocolate cake at all - until I encountered chef John Park's incredible, aptly named 'Recklessly Chocolate' cake at a humble cafe in Koreatown.  A modern, airy, unassuming space attached to a Korean supermarket (Assi) - where you might least expect the tastiest piece of chocolate cake you possibly may ever have in your life.

Yes, that good.

The Recklessly Chocolate cake ($5) is made with a Guinness gel and chocolate glaze, which may only be partly responsible for the crazy addictiveness of this treat - it's also in the super light, yet flavor-packed chocolate mousse.  And ultimately, I love that it's a single layer of (deliciously moist flavor bomb of) devil's food cake in between two layers of chocolate mousse, where most cakes would have the cake to mousse ratio the other way round.

I knew I loved chef Park's ice cream, and now I'd developed an addiction to his chocolate cake, as well. Which unfortunately for this valley dweller is not sold at Quenelle in Burbank.  But it's totally a 'destination' item for me and completely worth the drive - especially when you can have your pick of places to have fantastic dinner beforehand, in the area, as well.  And, I've made it a 'rule of 3' every time I've been back to Brew/Well for that cake - all for me.

So aside from the fantasmagoric cake, Brew/Well serves fresh brewed Art of Tea teas that I love any time of day.


Daytime: iced teas like PJL ($5) passionfruit jasmine tea sweetened with honey and lychee puree, always hits the spot on a blazing summer day.

'Nightcap': their carefully brewed Art of Tea Egyptian Camomile tea ($3) is caffeine free and helps me ease into a restful night of sleep like nothing else can (quality sleep is priceless...)

The serenity of the spacious cafe, with tables as well as limited counter seating, is perfect for a nice afternoon of writing - if only I lived closer!

Need to go back again for my fix soon...

[Deal Alert: get a loyalty stamp card: buy 9 drinks get the 10th one free (up to $4 value)!]

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Brew/Well

3525 W. 8th St., Suite 101, Los Angeles, CA 90005

Ph: 213.384.0884

Parking: Free in attached open air lot

Website: facebook.com/BrewWellCoffee 

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Korean Spas for the (Body and) Soul

Sometimes, you just need to get away.  Not like around the world in 80 days kind of away.  Just a something to get through the week...limited time, while supplies last (time and resources) kind of away.

No one seems to understand this better than, apparently, Koreans.

From the ultra affordable day spa (admission starting from $15!) to 24 hour facilities complete with (gender segregated) sleeping rooms, there's something for everyone looking to make that great escape, if only for a few hours or the day.  And for those seeking reprieve from the hustle and bustle with their friends / families, there are places to serve those needs too (afterall, the original korean bathhouses were created not just as a place of hygiene, but a place for people to socialize).

But besides escapism, korean spas are supposed to be fantastic for promoting wellness.  Apparently dry heat elevates heart rate, which boosts metabolism. As your core temperature and muscles warm up (no exercise required :P), circulation improves and and more oxygen is sent to body tissues / skin. As your body attempts to cool down by pushing water out your pores, the sweat carries away heavy metals and toxins with it.  High heat also creates an artificial fever state: as fever is part of the body's natural healing process, this is said tp stimulate the immune system leading to increased production of disease fighting white blood cells and antibodies. Korean spas offer a variety of saunas made of additional materials that stack up the benefits, like Himalayan salt for its anti-inflammatory balancing properties (helps relieve respiratory issues).

K-spas also serve real, good food. Forget the abstinence approach to health: heal your body at these spas and feed your soul as well with korean comfort dishes.

I had my first korean spa experience at Olympic Spa last year, and have been on a mission to check out as many korean spas in town as I can since (though I suspect Olympic will always be my fav).   

Here is a quick recap of my findings so far, and I will add to this list as I uncover more.  (Please do share if you've been to a great place that is not on this list yet :))

Note on admission fees: In general, with paid admission you’ll get use of all spas, saunas, steam rooms, towels, and lockers unless otherwise noted below.
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 OLYMPIC SPA *****
3915 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90019 Ph: 323.857.0666

Hours:  Daily 9am-10pm
Saunas: salt w/ binchotan, jade, steam, dry
Tubs: hot, cold, mugworts (hot)
Admission fee: $20 (recently increased from original $15 :( ) Waived with service of $70 or more
Parking: free valet
Restaurant: Yes
Full Nude?: Yes
olympicspala.com

Spot the Difference (in a good way)

• Ladies only spa
• Still my fav himalayan salt sauna of the spas I've tried: the room is smaller and hotter, mixes healing properties of himalayan salt with that of binchotan (charcoal acts as natural air purifier)
• Mugworts tub!!! Mugworts is known in Asian cultures for being great at balancing female hormones
• Cafe is spacious, serene and serves tasty korean food that is definitely foodie friendly.  My favs are: bibimbap, dumpling soup with rice cakes, steamed egg
• It's across the street pretty much from Soban (and their ridiculously delicious raw marinated crab - post on this to come), great for a lovely bite before or after your spa visit

This may not be for you if... 

• You're skittish about the no swimsuits (full nudity) policy
• Personal space is critical to you (the tubs here fit maybe 4 people max at a time, each) and you enjoy more of a megaplex style, uber spacious spa (see Wi Spa)

CENTURY SPORTS CLUB & DAY and NIGHT SPA *****

4120 West Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90019 Ph: 323.954.1020

Hours: 24 hours daily
Saunas: gold, salt, ice, hot stone kiln, (in jimjilbang), steam, dry  
Tubs: hot, cold
Admission fee: $20 for spa only / $25 for spa plus jimjilbang (note first 4 sauna rooms listed herer are in the jimjilbang). Waived if you book services $75 or above.
[Deal: Get $5 off admission with Foursquare or Yelp check-in!]
Parking: free in attached lot
Restaurant: Yes
Full nude?: Yes in Women's spa area; Spa issued t-shirt and shorts required in jimjilbang (common co-ed area) where saunas, cafe and juice bar are located; gym clothing required at gym obviously
centurydayandnightspa.com

Spot the Difference (in a good way)

• 24 hours so you don't have to worry about getting out of work in time on weeknights
• Gold sauna
• Modern, spacious, clean facilities, not overcrowded like Wi Spa and relatively quiet
• Juice bar!!
• Cafe offers great selection of food and drink including samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup), patbingsu (korean shaved ice with various toppings) 
• Driving range for golfers
• Gym and training studio can be used at no additional cost
• Full sized indoor pool can be used with no additional cost
• Lessons offered for adults or kids for those interested in swimming / golf (for separate fee)
• Cool displays at entrance to each sauna showing current temperature inside

This may not be for you if... 

• Mugworts tubs are the whole reason why you go to korean spas (they just removed theirs)  

NATURA SPA *****

3240 Wilshire Blvd. Suite B, Los Angeles, CA 90010 Ph:213.381.2288

Hours: Mon-Thu 6am-11pm, Fri-Sat 6am-12am, Sun 7am-11pm 
Saunas: jade (includes himalayan salt wall, binchotan and clay ceiling), clay (includes himalayan salt pebbles, binchotan in bags), mugworts steam, dry  
Tubs: hot, cold
Admission fee: $15. Waived if you book any two services (excluding nails)
Parking: $2 valet with validation ($3 without validation)
Restaurant: Yes Mon-Sat 10:30am-9:30pm last call 9pm (Sun 10:30am-8:30pm last call 8pm)
Full nude?: Yes. Gym clothing required at gym obviously, but gym is conveniently located inside women's area
natura-spa.com

Spot the Difference (in a good way)

• Mugworts steam room!!!
• I felt like Goldilocks coming to this place after Olympic Spa and Wi/Century - it's 'just right' with its intimately sized yet modern, clean and upscale looking space.  It wasn't crowded on a Monday night. If they had a mugworts tub, it would easily take top spot on my favorites list!
• Love that each sauna packages together all the best and most effective 'ingredients' to use in a dry heat treatment room: himalayan salt, binchotan and clay.
• Modern gym, inside women's area (no need to exit spa to go work out) at no extra cost!!
• Abalone porridge, samgyetang and fresh squeezed juices are on the menu!!!

This may not be for you if... 

• You don't like the smell of mugworts and just want a 'normal' steam room
• Wide open floor plans are more your thing: get out of my personal space, people!

CRYSTAL SPA  ****
3500 W 6th St #321, Los Angeles, CA 90020 Ph:213.487.5600
 

Hours: 6am-midnight Su-Th 24 hours Fri & Sat
Saunas: salt, wood & charcoal, red mud, ice, steam, dry
Spas: hot, cold
Admission fee: $30 (reduced to $15 if you book services $60 or above)
Parking: 6 hours free with validation in mall structure
Restaurant: Yes
Full nude?: Yes in Women's spa area; Spa issued t-shirt and shorts required in jimjilbang (common co-ed area) where saunas and cafe are located; gym clothing required at gym (outside spa entirely, but within same mall complex)

Spot the Difference (in a good way)

• Aveda products 'on tap' (free) in locker rooms and showers, and for purchase at spa store
• Secure at top level of Wilshire Galleria Mall
• Tip: Pick up your fav drinks at Zion Market on ground floor before you enter spa 
• Free admission to gym with entrance fee to spa 
• Red Mud sauna
• Wood & Charcoal sauna
• Admission includes use of gym at no additional cost

This may not be for you if... 

• You don't like having to fully exit the spa to get to the gym 
• You were looking for traditional korean soaks (e.g. mugworts pool) 
• You like your salt saunas scorching hot 
• You don't like having to exit into a service elevator hallway to access a decidedly not spa-style / clean and decorated and very public style restroom from the jimjilbang
• Food is a big part of the experience for you, and you need to see pictures.  Crystal Spa offers food, but their selection is not large, and unlike other spas, they do not have pictures posted of the dishes - just simple text only menus (they do have English translations though, and include skate!).  They also stop serving food at 9:30pm 

WI SPA ***
2700 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90057 Ph: 213.487.2700
Hours: 24 hours
Saunas: bulgama (oak wood), salt, clay (balls), jade, ice
Tubs: hot, cold
Admission fee: $25. Waived with treatments of $90 or more.  Additional overnight fees apply depending on time of check in and out: check in before 12AM: overnight Fee applied after 4AM. Check in after 12AM: overnight Fee paid upfront. Check in before 4AM, a New Day charge applied after 11AM
[Deals: $15 admission Tuesdays.  See more deals here.]
Gym: Yes (but requires membership / extra fees to use)
Parking: Free in attached lot (if crowded, they have complimentary valet)
Restaurant: Yes 
Full nude?: Yes in Women's spa area; Spa issued t-shirt and shorts required in jimjilbang (common co-ed area) where saunas, cafe and computer stations are located; gym clothing required at gym
wispausa.com

Spot the Difference (in a good way)

• 24 hours, taking the stress out of trying to get out of work in time to enjoy the place on a weeknight
• Impressive space featuring 4 floors of shiny, state-of-the-art facilities
• Clay room like a ball pool with balls smaller than gobstopper size.  You can really dig yourself into/under these if you wish for more even heating.  And, they have 2 large flat screen TVs IN this sauna so you can catch up on your korean dramas while your stress sweats melts away.
• Saunas have cool designs: the bulgama is shaped like an igloo made of wood/stone or a smokehouse.  The ice sauna has cool rough-hewn crystals protruding from the ceiling, as if in a cave
• Gift shop in women's spa area so you can buy masks, scrubs or any other DIY beauty supply you might have forgot to bring, without exiting spa
• For those who want to fully disconnect / don't want to carry their phone around: desktop computers in jimjilbang are provided if you want to websurf for your own purposes and not be distracted by incoming work emails
• Library of manga and mags in jimjilbang
• Rooftop patio to hangout al fresco

This may not be for you if... 

• Kids are not your thing, especially kids running around being as loud as they like, at the spa where you're supposed to be relaxing (I know, I am the very embodiment of evil and do not deserve to live.  No, I don't hate puppies too.)
• You don't like sharing your spa experience with large groups of people
• Cozy, intimate facilities are more your style 

Aroma Spa & Sports
3680 Wilshire Blvd. (3rd & 4th Floors) Los Angeles, CA 90010 Ph: 213.387.2111

Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-7pm; Sat 8am-7pm; Sun closed
Saunas: steam (mugworts), dry, mist, mud, jade
Tubs: hot jacuzzi, hot tub, cold tub
Restaurant: snack bar only with limited seating within spa; sushi restaurant on 2nd floor of complex (separate business)
Admission fee: $15 (waived with service over $90)
Parking: in attached structure (get validation from spa)
Full nude?: in spa area; swimsuit required for pool, and gym clothes required in gym (they provide shorts and t-shirts if needed)
aromaresort.com

Spot the difference (in a good way):

• Giant gym free to use with purchase of spa service: this is the biggest and most well equipped gym at a Korean spa that I've seen yet.  Weight machines for pretty much every muscle, bikes, ellipticals, treadmills and those strange looking hand-pedal machines.
• Golf range with great views over the city, for those into golf.  Just want to try it as a one-off thing? They will rent you the clubs to, for a fee.
• Big pool with 4? lanes

This spa may not be for you if...

• You love salt saunas (they don't have one)
• Modern venue upgrades are important to you (this place looks like it hasn't been renovated since the 90s, very early 90s) 
• A good Jjimjilbang is critical to your spa experience:
• there aren't many common areas to lounge around in, at this spa: the only seating areas are 2 loveseats in the hallway from the lockers to the gym, and a few sofa chairs in the closed off snack bar area
• snack bar is behind a closed, frosted door that makes you think it's not in business - if you are inquisitive/ determined enough to pass through that first door you will find a dark and dingy claustrophobic windowless room with service through a split top door. Mainly salads and juices served, with very limited Korean food menu.  Hours are inconveniently until 8pm on weekdays and 7:30pm Saturday, even though the spa is open til 10pm (so you don't have much time to get services done and eat after, unless you spend a lovely sunny socal afternoon indoors).
• You were looking for Korean or other imported / higher end products to be used: when I tried the Aroma Signature Treatment ($110), when it came time for my facial scrub, they squeezed some out from a tube of Rite Aid Apricot Scrub.
• You want your Jacuzzis / hot tubs to actually be hot (Aroma's were more lukewarm)
• Efficiency / effectiveness is what you value most in a therapist (if you wanted friendly/chatty you would have gone to a non-Korean spa)

Hugh Spa * (not recommended at night)
1101 S Vermont Ave, (2nd floor) Los Angeles, CA 90006 Ph: 213.365.1268

Hours: Mon-Sun 8am-midnight
Saunas: jade steam, clay mud, himalayan salt, magnetic infrared, wormwood, ice, oxygen
Tubs: pink himalayan salt hot, cold
Restaurant: Yes
Admission fee: $20
[Deal Alert: $10 for $20 voucher i.e. price of admission with Yelp Deal.  Also, check in to get free Himalayan Salt Room Baked Egg if you are literally starving]
Parking: in attached open air lot on ground floor
Full nude?: in shower area only; in all other areas, spa robe required
hughspa.com

Spot the difference (in a good way):

Photo from hughspa.com

• Ladies only
• Cheap admission if you use the Yelp Deal (you can buy on phone and redeem instantly)
• Only korean spa with magnetic infrared sauna in the area
• Wormwood seated steam saunas - where the herbs are put on a stove literally below a seat with an opening, so you can steam yourself where the sun don't shine, to maximize female hormone balancing and other alleged health benefits of wormwood. Sounds like a unique experience: I did not try this as it was $20 extra.
• For the uninitiated, the rooms are labelled with Step numbers, to help guide you through how to enjoy the spa, in the correct sequence.

This spa may not be for you if...

• You don't like walking past a Bail Bonds company on the way to the spa 
• You don't find it relaxing to be across from a Police Station (though a very nice, modern looking one, and one that probably makes the spa the safest most protected location possible in practice)
• You don't want to hear the pounding (and often off-pitch) sounds of karaoke coming through from the bar downstairs
• Old tiles around tubs / worn fabric on furniture bothers you, and you want everything to look clean and modern
  

  

  Photo from hughspa.com

• If you don't like your clay sauna to feel a little creepy, like you're rising from the dead / taking
  the first breath as an 'immortal' from your coffin ( partitions in the clay room resemble wooden coffins without the lid).  
• Food is an important part of the spa experience for you.  The signature 'himalayan salt room baked egg' (that I tried for free thanks to Yelp check-in) tastes exactly like an egg that has been baked for 7 hours would. Rubbery and sulfurous.  And also, not necessarily expected, brown and bland.  To be fair, I did not try their other cooked cafe foods, but I had no desire to, after that signature item.

Wilshire Spa * (not recommended)
3442 Wilshire Blvd. #100, Los Angeles, CA 90010 Ph: 213.387.0281

Hours: Sun-Thurs: 7am-10pm, Fri-Sat: 7am-2am
Saunas: mineral salt, charcoal/yellow ochre, pure onyx, steam, dry
Tubs: hot, cold
Restaurant: Yes
Admission fee: $20 ($25 after 10pm)
Parking: in lot across from building
Full nude?: Yes
wilshirespa.com


Spot the difference (in a good way):

• Onyx sauna - "improves blood circulation, increases metabolism, and relieves muscle pains and stiffness"
• Charcoal/yellow ochre room hung with bags of herbs including lavendar
• Not crowded at all late on a weeknight, in fact you could potentially have the spa to yourself

This spa may not be for you if...

• You don't enjoy feeling like the star of a low budget horror movie (with gaping holes in ceiling in the spa room, peeling paint in the walls in the massage chair lounge area; late at night lights are dimmed and flickering, the only door to the women's spa is propped open where anyone in the open lobby upstairs - street level facing public parking lot directly - can potentially peek in at the right angle, and feels like they could also walk in if the female receptionist is not looking)
• Jjimjilbang and other spa amenities are important to you
• You can't disconnect entirely and need that WiFi to work (since your phone signal likely won't)

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Now that you are informed, hope you'll keep an open mind and give Korean spas a try! (It will do wonders for any body hangups as well.  Women of all shapes, sizes and age go and couldn't care less what yours looks like - they are there for cleansing and health, not for judgment.  As long as you shower before going into any tubs or saunas, you will not be bothered or stared down in any way).

Enjoy!

Olympic Spa: Honestly, I Want to See You Be Brave

"Say what you want to say, just let the words fall out - honestly, I want to see you be brave!" - Sara Bareilles, Brave

I've been very lucky these past 2 years. A job I enjoy, plenty of travel, a supportive boss who gives me room to show what I can do; time still to pursue my personal passion project (this blog - thanks for reading and making it possible! :)). I grew up a lot, and am grateful for the support from some amazing people that allow me to say that I'm good at what I do, and not feel guilty about it.

But 'perfect' does not exist - and there are still those days/weeks that make you feel like you just got rolled under the eighteen wheeler of life and tossed mercilessly from tire to tire...just another roadkill.

This has been one of those weeks. And I was just going to keep my head down and hope for this too, to pass. There are just certain areas of life that it's ok to buck the system, and others that you just, would not be smart to - I had decided.

And then Sara Bareilles' Brave came on. And I thought about a dear friend who had just been diagnosed with meningioma and is waiting for brain surgery: how every day is for her now a struggle and precious, and how unfair that it is that the rest of us get to go through life, 'frivolizing' our healthy days away. Stressing about things that don't really matter.

So I listened to Sara. Again and again.

Until I mustered enough courage to speak/stand up for myself. There was no grand victory to be had, but I had the small victory within myself that I did not stay silent.  So with that and my Sanity Preservation day secured - I decided to spend it at the spa, detoxing body and soul.

My choices: Terranea and its utterly out of my budget, singular splurge in an excess of predictable luxury ($375 a body treatment??) - or a spare, no frills spot in Koreatown that dangles promise of adventure - good or bad, it would promise to be an unforgettable experience ($15 facility fee / $130 max head to toe pampering). Tough choice.

As I headed down a less traveled stretch of Olympic Blvd, passing mom & pop auto shops, then into the parking lot with its laundromat style machines right outside by the entrance - I did have a moment of hesitation: what am I getting myself into? "Swimsuits not permitted"?  In this part of town? How the heck did my normally OCD germphobic and OG asian Conservative self allow this to get this far?

The feeling of unease continued through the staid decor of the lobby, and into the old school style locker sections, where the full meaning of Korean.Day.Spa really hit me not just conceptually, but full frontally - in all directions.  Swimsuits not permitted.  And this was not a Pacific Palisades crowd.  This was a $15 all-day, run-of-house crowd.

Treatments happened in open areas, next to three small pools - OG style, no private rooms, no marble rims or faux rock sculptures - with spa 'aestheticians' clad in black bikinis. (What did I just get myself into?!)

But as I settled into the warm mineral pool - I found myself beginning to love this...bathhouse.  This place was - perfectly imperfect - for the frame of mind I was in.  No bullsh*t, canned 'calming' music playing in the background, no Stepford wives to frown down at your unpleasantly big-pored pleibian presence, no fancy displays of skincare products to be pressure-upsold to you post treatment, no illusion that this facility does anything other than act as 'service station' for your ever deteriorating, corporal and inevitably mortal self.

I got up and waded into the steaming tea-colored herbal soak pool - with its informative, laminated overview sheet.  "Angelica" or "Mugwort" is used for this brew - which is said to boost immunity, promote circulation, balance female hormones and detoxify.  A fellow soaker tipped me off to control temperature and stimulate circulation by alternating between the hot mugwort and mineral pools, and the cold pool.  I was glad the receptionist had told to come at least 45 minutes before my appointment time, to enjoy the facilities beforehand!

Multiple sauna rooms are spread throughout the spa, and you can access them all along with the pools with the $15 facility fee (or free with most treatments).  My favorite was the Himalayan Salt & Binchotan sauna, a glowing, spare yet beautifully designed room with walls and floors made of pink Himalayan salt, and ceiling panels of binchotan (Japanese black charcoal), with their mesmerizing starburst log ends. 

Himalayan Salt is said to charge the air with negative ions to alleviate respiratory and skin issues, and stress.  Binchotan is said to purify the air to help with respiratory problems.  I loved laying down on in this room and just drifting in the gorgeousness of that chiaroscuro - no phones, no emails, no stress. Just.Breathe.

Then I was called for my treatment appointment.  Loved that this spa promotes natural therapies: no microderm, chemical peels or botox offered here (and no organic gluten free etc fussiness either). I 'splurged' on the Goddess package - 1 hour 45 minutes of head to toe rejuvenation at $130. The description online sounded awesome:

The ultimate moisturizing experience...full body Korean Scrub to exfoliate the skin, followed by an aromatic seaweed body shampoo...Darphin Aromatherapy Massage to melt all those knots away. A rejuvenating essential oil scalp massage...purifying facial mask is applied to refresh and tighten the pores....aromatherapy hair shampoo and rinse, a luxurious body emulsion...applied to hydrate and moisturize. 

But what this was, was definitely not a spa treatment in any familiar sense, and definitely not an experience for everyone.

It happens in a very industrial style four-quartered pen with bare minimum partitions.  In each quarter is a padded vinyl spa bed - three of which contained naked ladies in various stages of rub down by spa 'aestheticians', and trying to avoid eye contact with each other.  The spa beds are vinyl because the aestheticians wash you by throwing buckets of warm water over you while you are laying on the bed.  They pull on special mitts that they scrub with ruthless efficiency over every part of your body to exfoliate you within an inch of your life.  This isn't your standard issue, ocean-view room, body is beauty approach with a friendly aesthetician there to care about your day and help you relax.  The ladies are matter-of-fact, taciturn, and laser-focused on their job to purge you of all undesirables.

Several analogies came into my head during the experience:

• This is like a scene from any medical / nuclear disaster movie - where the person returning from an infected area must be rigorously decontaminated, with people in faceless hazmat suits scraping the entire upper epidermis off of the Potentially Infected to ensure there's absolutely no trace of any possible contaminant left behind.  Or, the admission portion of any prison movie scene where someone has to scrub down before officially getting sent into lockup
• Also like a whole hog being prepped for roasting - except the hog is still alive during the cleaning and oiling
•  Like a whale washed up on the beach. riddled with barnacles that the crew must use 'tough love' to remove 

All these do NOT make this treatment sound pampering, I know.  Make no mistake, it was not relaxing and kind of surreal for a first-timer during the initial scrub phase - but you feel incredibly good after all the exfoliating - they really do get every last dead cell - and the ladies literally take care of every need thereafter from head to toe: scalp massage to facial to full body moisturizer and aromatherapy massage!  I found myself falling half asleep towards the end, in spite of the awkwardness of laying on a vinyl padded bed in a pen next to three other naked strangers.  At the end of the treatment did I feel rejuvenated? Renewed? Definitely, whole body.  Add: Catharsis achieved. This was exactly what I needed, that day - I felt purged, detoxified via external experience of what I had been put through emotionally in the past week.

Many spas have a dining area where you can stay on the wellness theme with egg white omelettes with spinach, whole grain whatever and such other BS that few people actually enjoy eating.  Olympic Spa has a cafe where you can balance out your bodily rejuvenation process by indulging your foodie soul in delicious grilled meats, bibimbap (flavorful stone pot rice with meat and veggies) and other Korean creations. 

All food is for purchase and not part of the spa facility fee or treatment fees.  Conveniently though, you don't have to bring your credit card or walk around with cash - your locker key ring has a barcode that the cafe hostess will scan to record your purchase, and you can simply take care of any charges for the day all at once at the front desk when you leave.  (You also get free WiFi at the cafe, so if you wanted to spend the whole day there whether to write or as necessary, to work - you can bring your laptop or tablet to use at the cafe).

My order: Fluffy Hot Steamed Egg (Gaeran Jjim) $4 Hot Stone Mixed Rice (Dolsot Bibimbap) $12. Loved the hot steamed egg - it's not as silky smooth as the chawanmushi you would get in a place like Farmshop, but it's still got good texture and flavor. Portion size was also big enough to be a filling snack or appetizer.  The bibimbap was delicious as well - and I love that despite the 'monopoly' that the cafe essentially has, they actually put effort into flavor, texture and presentation. They used black rice - nicely crisped at bottom from the real stone pot.  The bibimbap also came with seaweed soup, and a bit of kimchi and trio of banchan (side dishes).

I also loved the selection of drinks as well: the corn silk tea was a first time sighting for me, as well as Korean raisin tea.  Aloe is great for cleansing while being a refreshing drink.  There are also cans of Korean fruit juices and Izze.

Before heading out, I took a quick nap in the open sauna with heated jade floors. They provide quilted pads that you can use to lay out, and many ladies catch quick naps here between dips in the pools, saunas or pre/post treatment.

I brought my hair products and makeup, which I was able to fix at open vanity stations (hairdryer provided) before heading out to dinner.

All in all, an amazing time at Olympic Spa. I didn't save any lives, change the world for the better, or move the needle on anything today.  But "Do one thing that scares you, every day" (Eleanor Roosevelt)? Check. Doing what it takes to shake off the tire marks on my back so I can feel more like an effective person that cares about things that are real, and really matter, again? Check. 

I reached out to my friend and reconfirmed our plans to meet up, to do whatever she wants to do. To say that I can't even imagine what she is going through, but I will be there, every step of the way, for her time to be brave.

I will definitely be back to Olympic Spa soon, and regularly - for that hard to beat all day spa facility access for $15.  And maybe another full scrub down, the next time I feel the need to reaffirm / stave off mortality at the same time.

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Olympic Spa
3915 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90019
Ph: 323.857.0666

Open Daily 9am-10pm
 
Website: olympicspala.com

Parking: free valet in back of spa

LADIES ONLY.  BYO reading materials.
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Sun Ha Jang: DUCK Season 365 on the KBBQ

As a massive fan of every part and preparation of duck - it was exciting to read TheJGold's review of a place that served it BBQ'd, Korean style. With the abundance of korean barbecue spots in Ktown, grilling up not only your standard issue protein (beef) but squid, tongue & innards, this surprisingly may be one of the few to serve duck meat...

I knew the minute I saw this unrepentantly evil banner, with flames crowding in on an adorable little innocent, that I would love this place (sorry, Donald/Daisy...RIP)

As advised by the Pulitzer-winning one, I got the roast duck ($23.99), which came in beautiful round slices with a plate of salad greens, scallions, pickled radish, kimchi, bean sprouts, sliced cabbage with (miso?) sauce, and shredded radish.

There was a special pan used just for the duck, which cooks in its own fat - there's a 'drain' at one side of the pan, but that is plugged with a bunch of kimchi to prevent the delicious fat from escaping. My server threw the discs onto the pan with tons of whole garlic cloves - when these two started to sizzle on the grill together, the smells were intoxicating (like any other kbbq joint, definitely do not wear any dry clean only clothing...). Though the duck was fairly thinly sliced, it took way longer than I was used to, with bulgogi or even galbi beef. Trying to be self sufficient, I used the tongs to spread the pieces out so they each had their own surface area of the pan to cook on - and was promptly chastised (in a friendly way) by my server. Apparently with duck you should keep it in a sort of pile to avoid burning the pieces? So once the duck is nice and browned with bit of caramelization, I was instructed to throw it into the salad greens, pile some scallions and pickled radish on top, and eat together in one bite. Loved how the sweet/gamey juiciness of the duck is counterbalanced by the crunchy mildness of the greens, subtle bite of scallions, with the sweet/tart pickled radish crunch & juice to cut through it all. I also had some Korean raspberry wine, which went fantastic with the duck.

After you're done with the meat - while all the delicious duck fat and slightly charred meat bits and garlic cloves are still sizzling on the grill - your server will add purple rice, chopped up kimchi, sesame and bit of salt and pepper, and stir fry up a batch of fresh fried rice for you, right on the same pan. This results in the most fragrant and beautifully crusted kimchi fried rice ever.

After the heat of the kbbq meal, I was presented with a free bowl of cooling bean sprout/spring onion broth as chaser.

Others have commented on the lack of good service here, but on my visit, I felt well taken care of - almost like having a home cooked meal hosted by a Korean friend's mom. There was a language barrier, but we still managed to communicate well enough to get through the meal, and all of it was friendly.

The only drawback to all this is the price - it's quite a bit more than your average kbbq joint, so not an everyday kind of place, but the duck was decadent and delicious.

As a duck (for dinner) lover, it's great that I can now have it prepared on the Korean barbecue grill, year round. 

Will definitely look to be back soon!!


On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% 

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Sun Ha Jang
4032 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90006

Ph: 323.634.9292

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Mapo Kkak Do Gee: Home Cooked Deliciousness Without the Work & Wear on Your Wallet

Every time I go to Koreatown, I realize how much I don't know about Korean food and all the amazing food within reach - beyond the all-too-familiar KBBQ.  And the best thing about it all? You can have an incredibly delicious, foodie-friendly, filling meal the same or just slightly more than you would pay at a fast food or casual dining restaurant.

So when dorkyfoodie recommended one of her fav spots in Ktown, Mapo Kkak Do Gee, for dinner a while back - I was excited to check it out.  Sometimes there is an inversely proportional relationship between quality of venue + authencity / deliciousness of cuisine here - and Mapo Kkak Do Gee is a prime example.  Located in a rundown strip mall, within a small space that barely contains a handful of tables with the only decor being large printed menus with photos of key dishes along one wall...Mapo Kkak Do Gee definitely fits in comfortably to the no frills category.

But the food is something else entirely...to start, the collection of banchan or free side dishes that always accompany any korean meal, were fantastic.  I thought I would love the place as soon as I saw muk (sp?) which you don't see everywhere (I think this is jelly cubes made of mung bean topped with spicy seasoning) - confirmed when I tasted its beautifully fresh, light and soft consistency.

  Mapo has a ton of noodles and soup stews on offer - and though I instinctively gravitated towards the seafood varieties like Pollack stew, when I heard that Spicy Beef & Leek Soup ($8.75) is an awesome choice - and I saw the delicious photo - the choice was clear.  It arrived in a black stone pot, sizzling orange and boiling over itself like some potent brew in a cauldron.  The balance of tender meat, crunchy logs of leek and glass noodles was instantly addictive.  And as dorkyfoodie recommended, stirring the free purple rice provided on the side, directly into the soup makes it even more amazing.  This is one I've come to crave and will be coming back for as the weather gets colder.

For her main, dorkyfoodie got something I'd never seen or heard of before: Noodles in Chilled White Bean Soup ($8.75) - it came with ice cubes!!  In a giant bowl of very mild flavored noodles in mild flavored soup, served cold like Korean gazpacho.  I'm not sure that I would love this on its own - it's not packed with bold flavor like most people are used to in Korean cuisine - but as a counterpoint to the heat of the Spicy Beef and Leek soup, it was a perfectly serene and soothing yin to the aggressive, riled up stew's yang.   

 

Despite the unfamiliar noodles, there's something about Mapo Kkak Do Gee that feels like home.  I wouldn't say it was the service either, at least on that first visit, though there's a very hardworking and authentic Korean lady in charge - she's not exactly the most friendly to all tables (She was lovely on my return visit, when I dined solo - Korean ladies at the restaurants I've been to in Ktown -actually seem to be amazing about that - really taking care of / mothering single female diners).  I would say it's really the food that feels very homecooked, in the best way - welcoming, comforting, soul-soothing.  No gimmicks - just really well cooked, good food.

 

And you don't even have to prep, cook or clean - a perfect weeknight meal, in and out, easy.  No pressure to dress up, pair drinks and plan courses and all that jazz. 

For those who feel compelled to splurge, there are more spendy items on the menu like the Spicy Seafood Stew ($22.55) and Braised Codfish ($22.55) - but otherwise, a very affordable, great meal that I have already, and will come back for again very soon.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 5.5 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Mapo Kkak Do Gee
3611 W 6th St., Los Angeles, CA 90020
Ph: 213.736.6668

Parking: Free in attached strip mall lot
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Han Bat vs Mountain Cafe: Sizing Up Korean Sick Soups

For some reason, just before I travel my body always gives way to the bug du jour - it's as if it'd been holding on to get through the stress of leaving everything in a good place at work, at home, before going on vacation - and just when all is set to go, it decides it's ok to throw in the towel on my immune system.

As I save my only international trip of the year for the holidays, I was anxious when I started feeling a cold coming on just before my trip. No time / not in the mood to cook - I went in search of foods to soothe body and soul, to fuel the fight against the virus before it gets full blown.

I remembered a Korean 'sick soup' that supposedly does wonders for hangovers and/or illness - Sul Lung Tang. And according to a quick Google search, one of the 'best' of these comes from a hole-in-the-wall in Koreatown, that specializes in nothing but this soup: Han Bat Shul Lung Tang (not sure why they spell Sul with an "h", other places do not - any Koreans out there can shed some light on the correct spelling?)

Han Bat is very much bare bones (pun intended) - a no-fuss storefront on a less trafficked side of 5th street, unglamorously located across the way from a Carl's Jr. With just a handful of tables and a short menu that fits in a photo frame on the wall - your choices are basically beef soup, or boiled beef soup - and what types of meat/offal to put into it.

Even while nursing a cold, I refuse to go for boring old 'flank' or 'brisket' beef, and I wasn't about to pay over $16 for 'boiled beef' soup - so I ended up with Sul Lung Tang with Intestine, Tripe & Spleen ($8.28).

Sul Lung Tang in general is made by slow simmering ox bones - typically 12-15 hours by most accounts. This process results in a nutrient rich broth that is said to help boost your immune system, and also is soothing to eat (in marked contrast to bold flavors of more familiar Korean foods that involve kimchee or barbecue).

I expected to love this soup - afterall, ramen broth makes me go all weak in the knees, which is another slow-simmered soup, but just made with pork bones instead of ox (and ok maybe bonito as well). And I love offal.

But despite best of intentions, I intensely disliked Sul Lung Tang. As it's the first time I'd had it, I'm not sure if it's Han Bat's preparation or the type of soup in general that I don't like the taste of. But to me the milky looking broth had a slightly gelatinous consistency (probably from the collagen in the bones) and lacked layers / depth of flavor - it basically reminded me of cloudy dishwater. That you can feel coating your throat and stomach as it goes down (which I suppose would be great for hangovers - so no use to me since I've long outgrown those days!) Even the offal didn't help - there were only a few narrow strips of tripe, and the intestines were a bit too slimy for my taste. The spleen was fine but didn't contribute a lot in taste to the soup. I do like glass noodles, so if I had to say one positive thing about this soup, I would say it's the inclusion of the noodles. Again it's my first, so perhaps I would give the soup another chance at another place, but at Han Bat I could barely finish my bowl.

The banchan (side dishes) were an entirely different story: Han Bat serves up a bowl of kimchee, a bowl of radish kimchee, and a bowl of rice (included in cost of soup). The kimchee was delicious, perfect balance of sour/spicy with a satisfying crunch. And they also set down a giant plastic bin of chopped scallions that you can add to the soup for flavor - but again nothing added to the soup helped - we just weren't compatible.

A little while later, just before my trip, knowing I was still feeling under the weather, Sophia from Burp and Slurp recommended Mountain Cafe for a dinner meet up via Marilyn from Nomlog.

I hadn't heard of the place before that night, but a quick search online and it was clear this place was indeed well known for two sick foods: Abalone Porridge, and Ginseng Chicken soup, and that both would be amazing.

This hole-in-the-wall was much different - it's a much smaller space, with maybe 5 tables max, squeezed in around the open kitchen, where two mom/grandma figures toiled to bust out bowl after bowl of steaming deliciousness. The menu offers wider range and diversity than Han Bat, but because of the open kitchen set in a tiny space, and personal service from the staff of three, it feels a bit more like you're getting a home-cooked meal.

Sophia ended up not being able to join us, so Marilyn and I grabbed a 2-top and excitedly checked out the menu. I knew we were probably going to go with the signature soups, but it was fun looking through their other menu offerings (the translations are also pretty amusing - like the "soup made from the bones of the four legs of an ox". Would it taste 'off' if you only put in 3 legs? And why, whatever would they mean by "good for your stamina"?).

Though Abalone Chowder is their top seller, I'm fairly used to 'jook' or rice porridge from Chinese cuisine, and it's fairly simple to make - so I opted for the richer sounding Ginseng Chicken Soup ($10.65) - made with a whole chicken, ginseng, garlic, jujube, ginger and sweet rice.

It was love at first bite - the giant stoneware bowl came steaming hot, and you could smell the gingery goodness from 10 feet away. Where most people would say blander foods are better when you are sick (taking it easy on the digestive system), that is exactly the stuff of foodie nightmares, and exactly why I hate being sick. Viruses harm my body, but bland foods kill my soul. Ginseng Chicken Soup thankfully rails against convention - it's full of amazing, unabashed layers of rich flavor, yet still packed with soothing effects that are immediate - one spoonful and it warms you to the core, nourishing and coaxing your body (and soul) back to health on impact.

I loved the interplay of flavors and textures here - delicious chicken broth is elevated with subtle sweetness from jujube (dates), bit of heat from the ginger, slight bitterness from ginseng, held together by fragrant but not overwhelming garlic; tender chicken meat is offset by crunchy scallions, with sweet rice adding textural interest. AND you get an entire chicken in the soup, so it makes for a filling meal!

THIS is chicken soup for the soul.


As if the amazing soup were not enough on its own, the ladies also bring out four dishes of AYCE banchan: kimchee, radish kimchee, some sort of sesame/soy/sugar marinated cabbage, and beef stewed in soy-based sauce with shishito peppers. All four were tasty, and loved that you can get unlimited refills of each.

The beef in particular tasted great when mixed in with the Abalone Chowder ($7.85) - Marilyn was a sport and got this so we could try their other signture dish.

This turned out to be one of the best rice porridges I have ever tasted - not so much for innovative ingredients (there are others that serve up more creative combinations, and in larger volumes), but for flavor and consistency.

It's easy to make congee / jook / rice porridge way too bland - so bland you get more sick from eating it (in my view - perpetuating the cycle of sickness through deathly boring soup for the uninspired soul).

Mountain Cafe's abalone chowder, though small in number and pieces of abalone (to be expected, given the price!) delivers on big flavor. And though the addition of raw egg is not a new concept, for some reason the way that Mountain Cafe prepares their chowder and egg, once you break the yolk and spread it throughout the porridge, it becomes very creamy and smooth, and tastes like luxury.

My initial reservations about getting this since you can make it at home fairly easily (in theory)? Gone after tasting. Plus, who wants to cook while sick anyways?

Of the two at Mountain Cafe, I will say Ginseng Chicken Soup is my favorite for its complexity and value (whole chicken / meal in a bowl for just over $10!)

In the match-up of Han Bat vs. Mountain Cafe - Mountain Cafe wins with a K.O. quickly seized in round 1 (both of the cold/flu bug and of its heavier weight competitor - in concept and popularity anyway - of ox bone soup).

Now, already on the trip I had been so looking forward to, and eating my way through the culinary heaven of Hong Kong - I still can taste that Ginseng Chicken Soup in my mind, and crave it. Will definitely be back to Mountain Cafe when I return to LA, whether or not I am sick.

Thanks, ladies of Mountain Cafe, for getting me better in time to enjoy my trip! (And thanks Sophia for the rec, and Marilyn for another fun dinner adventure!)

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%
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Han Bat Shul Lung Tang
4163 W 5th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
Ph: 213.388.9499




Mountain Cafe
3064 W 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90005
Ph: 213.487.7615


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