No Substitutions: Night of Exceeding Pallor

I am normally a 'life gives me lemons, make lemon sabayon tart happen by-finding-some-incredible-more-than-half-off-deal-and-stacking-miles/loyalty-points-on-top' kind of girl.  And I've always seen this as a positive thing.

But lately, I've been learning there are instances in which this makes me my own worst enemy.  When the Right Thing fails to show or be found, I tend to just look for the Next Best Thing.  Afterall, that's how I make a living.  I problem solve.  I creatively problem solve.  And find the best possible alternative given set constraints, or contingencies.  Whatever it takes to get the job done. I make it work.   So why not in my personal life as well?  As if I have a choice - it's in my DNA.

So it was that when the much anticipated Science and Food lecture that was to feature Rene Redzepi - executive chef and co-owner of Noma, the world's current best restaurant - that was supposed to happen tonight at UCLA - was announced to have been postponed, true to form I tried to make the best of it...

I remembered that another world renowned chef, Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame, had also spoken on science and food not too long ago, and set out to find video of the session as substitute for what tonight could've been.  As luck would have it, LA Times had just reported availability of the video at iTunes University, and it was free! Digging around, I found the app also contains videos of lectures by other culinary luminaries including Wylie Dufresne and Grant Achatz - all free to view! I saved the link to savor when I got home.  Awesome, right?  Except it's not at all the same as an in-person experience, and instead of allocating an hour or two and waiting for what I really wanted to see in the first place - now I'm going to spend every free moment NOT doing my taxes and other things that I need to do, and instead procrastinating by watching every last video on the couch.

But first I had to grab dinner:  remembering Ramen Yamadaya was to have just opened its Valley outpost yesterday (widely publicized as April 1st), I thought I could make the most of the derailed night with their fantastic 20 hour tonkotsu on the way home.  All day, I could taste it in my head, and looked forward to getting my hands on a soul-soothing bowl after work.

But as I pulled into the strip mall - I saw windows still papered over - the restaurant dark (despite banners emblazoned with "Grand Opening 4/1!!!"). Disappointed, but thinking unforeseen circumstances forced them to push the opening back - I also knew I could come back another day: the location was on my way home from work.  But I was still hungry, and instead of doing the smart thing - going home and saving money to return another day - I drove around looking for any other Japanese place that caught my eye. 
That place turned out to be Izakaya M - my Next Best Thing. And apparently, I've yet to learn that the Next Best Thing hardly if ever surprises you and turns out to be the Right Thing.  Especially when it's picked simply because it was there.

As always with the Next Best Thing, at first it seemed full of promise - I was beyond excited to see, in the Valley, dammnit, words like "sting ray", "tongue", "heart" and kobe wrapped, foie topped toro on the menu.

I wasn't about to commit $36 to the kobe-toro-foie though (much as it sounded like a trifecta) without knowing the quality of the food here, so I stuck with small plates.

I had tried BBQ Sting Ray recently, on a trip to Singapore, and LOVED its skate wing-like, flakey meat - so couldn't wait to dive into the dish of Sting Ray Fin Karaage ($7).  Normally you would see the word karaage in association with chicken - but Izakaya M was deep frying Sting Ray Fin. 

As soon as I sat down at the sushi bar I saw signs of what this meal might be - uni sitting in the glass case was half liquified, and dull in color.  But I chose to ignore the red flags - I was hopeful that its namesake hot, small plates, if not its sushi, will be where the place would excel.  I wanted this to work.

The sting ray karaage came - and some of the pieces turned out great, with a fragrant, crisp shell yielding to soft, sweet fish underneath. But other pieces were tough and spiney as you would expect from a regular fish fin.  And overall the dish would have been much better served at much hotter temperature.  I really wanted something to dip the pieces in as well - but the only thing on the plate was lemon - story of my life..I mean, the night, I guess! - so I ended up improvising (perhaps brutishly) by dipping it in soy sauce with wasabi, which didn't end up being half bad.

Izakayas are Japanese gastropubs: gourmet bar-snack items are intended as small bites to accompany beer, sake or soju.  I wasn't drinking tonight, but was excited about the robata grill, as well as skewers listed at around $3-$4 a pair.   And of course went straight for the offal!  Starting with Cow Tongue ($4).  If you sit at the bar, you can look into the open kitchen and watch the chefs cook your meats on the robata.  But unlike the now shuttered Gonpachi, this isn't high-end izakaya, and the chefs do not meticulously fawn over individual skewers and hand-fan them to perfection. So the tongue wasn't the best I've ever had, but it's also not bad either, you get two skewers for $4, it's fairly well seasoned, juicy and tender with that unmistakable texture that is simultaneously chewy and slightly crunchy.  Everything's relative, right?  So I would say this was the best of the skewers I had this meal.

Next up: Chicken heart ($3 for 2 skewers) and Duck ($4 for 2 skewers).  Again these were 'good enough' - but didn't make me forget how to breathe. They won't keep me up at night, yearning for the next encounter.  It tasted like they used the same sweet sauce on both - so they ended up tasting about the same, with obviously different textures.  I started 'making the best of it' again, appreciating that we can get interesting pieces of offal in the Valley at all. 

And for the token veggie: under the Chef's Special section: Maitake Mushroom Flower ($7) - I love mushrooms, but have not seen maitake served as its own dish at a Japanese restaurant before.  Intrigued by the description - "sweet maitake mushroom lightly marinated in Archie's secret sauce and lightly seared" - I had already formed a visual of breath-taking presentation and earthy, meaty flavors in my mind - but what arrived fell a little flat, so to speak. I was hoping for more of a 'floral' inspired arrangement that made use of the unique structure of the mushroom (also known as hen of the woods).  And was expecting delicately crisped edges from the sear, to lend a smokey char to bring out the earthy flavors of the mushroom all the more.  But what came out was a soft - pile - that wasn't at all structured with no evidence of searing.

The last item caught my eye due to price rather than preparation - Lobster Tail was listed for 'just' $10.  I knew it wouldn't be giant - but didn't expect it to literally be a bite and a half, either.  While its saving grace was that it wasn't overcooked - the meat itself didn't have much flavor.  Definitely not a fine dining caliber meat or execution.  And the super dry, pallid and old looking shell didn't make it any more appetizing. Definitely not at all worth the price and not something I would order again.

It's too bad about Izakaya M, because they have all the right (exciting) types of ingredients for success - if only they could just 'apply themselves' to try to execute at a higher level, improving quality all around, they could be full house every night (at least with local foodies!)

But all in all, a lackluster night of 'replacements' that didn't satisfy like the real objects of my desire would have.  Instead of trying to 'fix' things and finding other ways to fill the voids, it would have been better for me to just stay the course and keep my eyes on the prize - even if it meant no instant gratification.

In the end, substitutes won't make up for the real thing - and you end up just feeling more empty than before - worse, because you've wasted your time and energy on things that don't really meet your needs. I wouldn't be myself if I didn't always look for a solution - but maybe sometimes I can just be a little more strategic - because sometimes, maybe the solution is to keep seeking the Right Thing and not to settle for the Next Best Thing.  So, no more substitutions.

In the meantime - I am still glad to have found an option - in case I ever have an 'emergency' craving for offal and can't get out of the Valley - for a place to get my fill.  As long as I go knowing what I'm getting out of it, right?

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 4 bites
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 5 bites
Ambience - 4 stars
Service - 5 stars
Overall experience - 4.5 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 70%

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Izakaya M
13573 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, CA 91423
Ph: 818.981.0078

Parking: Meters free after 8pm (but of course, double check signs and meter before parking)

Website: izakayam.com
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Nom Nom Truck - Offal Sandwich Extraordinaire

It was my first few weeks at the new job on the Westside - and I was going to say I was 'still' in my honeymoon phase, but with this one I think that feeling is going to last!

On top of the excitement with new responsibilities, I was also happy about the whole new world of lunch options that are now open to me - and that is not just about restaurants, but extends to food trucks as well (some of which did not make their way to the Valley, at least not by my old office!).

When I saw that Nom Nom Truck (which Food Network fans might recognize from The Great Food Truck Race) was by my new work one day, I practically leaped out of my chair. I had tried their infamous Bahn Mi (Lemongrass Chicken) before, and while it was good, it wasn't mind blowing. What I really wanted to try was their Deli Special sandwich - packed with a combination of things that would make my non-foodie friends cringe, but which sets my Spidey Foodie Sense a-tingling!

What's in it? According to their menu description: Vietnamese head cheese, meatloaf, ham, pâté. The last time I encountered Nom Nom Truck, they had been out of this. Ever the optimist, I set out that day hoping to catch the Deli Special for lunch.

And: cue triumphant music: they had it!! Perched in a 'cookie cutter', all-business-business-park that day, I was pretty much the only one in line that was excited to give the offal sandwich a try. The 'suits' loss, my gain.

So what exactly is head cheese? It's definitely not dairy or, in people's worst imaginations, some form of mucous-y extrusion from the cabeza of a four legged beast. It's just a well-intended but misguided and epic fail of an euphemism for a cold cut made from various bits of meat taken from the head of a cow or pig - if you like beef or pork cheek, that's one of the bits of meat you can get from the head.

I loved the sandwich, with its intriguing mix of various textures: cold cut of head cheese, slightest crunch, with more hefty tasting bites of meatloaf and juicy smooth ham with creaminess of pâté (mousse made from duck liver). And the signature flavors of Vietnamese cuisine with savory and sour and sweet all coming through at the same time, all in balance with each other. All in a fresh and delicious baguette.

LOVED. Can't wait til Nom Nom Truck comes back around again.

___________________________________________

Nom Nom Truck
All over Los Angeles (and in San Francisco too!)
Follow on Twitter:
@Nomnomtruck

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http://onemorebiteblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/nom-nom-truck-offal-sandwich.html

1MB Travels: Miami: Michael's Genuine Food & Drink

On my first business trip with my new job, I got to go to Miami!!!  It was a week before the South Beach Wine and Food Festival, but it was for the best, as there was no way I would have been able to concentrate on the work at hand!

In any case, with only a few days - most of which would be occupied by work functions - there was one place at the top of my list that I resolutely would not leave Miami without grabbing at least one meal at: Michael's Genuine Food & Drink in the Design District.  

I had seen it on Travel Channel, on the first season of Anthony Bourdain's The Layover - where he said their fried pig ears were "A bar food unimprovable by man".  Big statement - and I love fried pig ear, so I was excited when a coworker "Hawaii Issue" agreed to go with me to check it out (I'm still a little nervous when travelling on my own, to wander into certain areas by myself - call me chicken).

We were staying near South Beach, and although Design District, where Michael's was located, sounded safe enough to me - all the cab drivers I talked to said it was best to stay in South Beach at night if on my own.  So happily with Hawaii Issue on board, we were able to take a 10 minute cab ride into Miami proper.  Michael's, as it turns out, is in a chic little shopping complex called Atlas Plaza.  It was a charming space with dark interiors with a gastropub feel, and a cute patio area that was laid back and in my mind very Miami with crossbeams opening up to the beautifully blue Florida sky filled with impossibly perfectly fluffy clouds, framed by silhouettes of tall palms. So naturally I chose to sit outside - it was a little chilly this time of year, but they had plenty of heat lamps to keep us warm.

First order of course almost before we sat down was for Crispy Pig Ear ($6) - I was actually really proud of Hawaii Issue, who is more of an American/Italian chain restaurant fan, for diving in to try this. They were thin fried ribbons pungent with seasoning that somehow reminded me of fritos.  A really original bar snack that I thoroughly enjoyed yes.  Was it the most amazing thing we've ever eaten?  I preferred the taste and texture of crispy pig ears at Lukshon back home (part of lunch entree).  But I was glad I got to try Michael's, and as a bar snack I agree is the best ever.

(A close up shot of the crispy pig ear!)

From the small plates section, I went for that which features a local ingredient: Cobia & Shrimp Ceviche papaya, avocado, citrus, cilantro ($11) - cobia is a local white fish, which when served in ceviche has a pleasing texture that is soft and supple but structured, with a subtle sweetness.  I liked it! The shrimp was also incrediby fresh and delicious, especially when mixed with papaya perfectly ripened avocado pieces.  This starter was light, refreshing and a great way to kick off the meal - it also lived up to the name of the place with clean flavors, letting the high quality ingredients shine.

Hawaii Issue chose something unexpected for his starter: Spicy Octopus chorizo, crispy fingerling potatoes, saffron aioli ($11) - this was a hearty dish that was all kinds of meaty, crunchy, juicy deliciousness, topped with a bright, smooth yellow saffron aioli to temper the heat underneath.  Really great choice by a self-proclaimed non-foodie!

Next up for me from the medium plates: Crispy Rice Cake chorizo, Florida rock shrimp, manchego, chili aioli, pns farm egg ($13) the theme for me was local ingredients!  Got this so I can try the Florida rock shrimp - the 'rice cake' turned out to be a crab-cake like patty made with chorizo, shrimp, cheese and a rice crust, topped by a perfectly fried egg with a side of not-overly-spicy chili aioli.  Loved this as well, the original combination of ingredients - the feeling of breakfast for dinner - and the presentation with the relatively bold colors on the plate.

I didn't grab a bite of Hawaii Issue's Linguini Niman Ranch lamb bolognese, housemade ricotta, basil ($19) but our server said they make their pastas fresh in house every day, and Hawaii Issue really enjoyed it.

Though pretty full at that point, apparently Michael's has a famous pastry chef who churns out very creative pieces, so we couldn't leave without dessert.  The one that came highly recommended was the Banana Peanut Butter & Bacon Panini chocolate caramel ice cream sundae ($10) - bacon in any form of dessert is always a good idea, and though we weren't sure that a panini for dessert sounded appealing, the rest of the description drew us in and so we went for it.  I think if we weren't already so full, we might have enjoyed this more - and I appreciated the originality, but the hefty chunks of bread were a bit too much for dessert (though I loved how the smokey char from the grill balanced nicely with the light sweetness of the other ingredients).  The peanut butter was too 'chunky' for me as well (I don't like having to work around 'pebbles' of nuts in my dessert) but Hawaii Issue liked that element.  The bacon was a bit crusty and hard as well where I wanted more juicy, softer pieces.  The sundae on the side, in a shotglass was a cute touch and I thought made the dish like a reinterpretation of french toast a la mode.

Our second dessert on the other hand was phenomenal - one that Hawaii Issue actually noticed first (I think there's a dormant foodie in there somewhere!) Tangerine Creamsicle Pot de Creme warm doughnuts tarragon blackberry jam ($10) - this was a fantastically light, beautifully citrusy and creamy creme in a ramekin, served with freshmade sugared donuts served warm, and a little side of tarragon blackberry jam.  A little plate of heaven that I wish I could fly back and eat, very soon.

All in all, a great time at Michael's Genuine Food and Drink.  Some fantastically fresh, original but unpretentious dishes, and love the laid back ambience and outdoor dining option.  Can't wait to go back hopefully soon!!!

[For other photos and stories from my trip to Miami, check out the album on my Facebook page.]

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%
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Miami

Michael's Genuine Food & Drink
130 Northeast 40th Street, Miami, FL 33137
Ph: 305.573.5550

Website: michaelsgenuine.com __________________________________________________________

Picca Peru - The Case of The Mystery Meat

I'm going to completely date myself here, but as a kid, while most of my friends were obsessed with Sweet Valley High - I had maxed out my quota at the local public library with books from the Choose Your Own Adventure and Nancy Drew series (which succeeded Encyclopedia Brown).

I loved the interactivity of these books, where you have to pick up clues along the way to help you arrive at the right conclusion (solve the mystery! save the day! get to the happy ending!).  My OCD apparently developed early as well - with the CYOA books, I would go back and follow every path in the decision tree so I can see all the possible scenarios, and see how my original decisions stacked against other options.  I would keep a post-it on the figurative 'fork in the road' (yes, post-its had been invented by then, I am not that old, dammit...), go down one path, and flip back to find out where the other fork led.  I loved Encylopedia Brown, with its charming 'neighborhood mysteries' - and maybe partly because a lot of times, he helped his dad, the chief of police, solve his harder cases while at the dinner table.  That set the scene for two of my biggest loves in life.

So it was, that when one of the hottest chefs from one of the hottest restaurants in LA sent out an invite for a 'Mystery Meat Dinner', there was no way in the world I would miss it.  Even if the term for most people, and if issued by lesser venues, would elicit fear and thoughts of culinary Russian Roulette.  Even if it was, very literally, a dark, stormy and ominous night.  And no one I knew wanted to leave their house.  Even if I'm not a big meat eater (much prefer seafood). I love mysteries, I love surprises when it comes to food, and I grew up eating almost everything and will try almost anything once (bird spit? good for your skin. cow spinal cord? love it like a tougher savory marshmallow).  And it was 6-courses for the very reasonable price of $50.  So, I had no choice but to get myself to Picca Peru for their one-night only event.

After managing the trek from the Valley to Beverlywood without getting in any accidents, and settling in to the upstairs mezzanine space (great for people watching), I thought I deserved to reward myself by kicking off the meal with a cocktail. 

Everything on mixologist Julian Cox's menu looked good, but I decided to go with the one recommended by our server: Zarate's Tomahawk #15 ($12) with rocoto infused mezcal, fresh lemon juice, agave nectar, fresh huacatay, cucumber foam.

I don't normally like mezcal (too smoky, tastes like liquid cigar) but liked that there were unfamiliar elements in this drink, and was reassured that it would be well balanced with the refreshing citrus, agave, huacatay (Andean mint-like herb) and cucumber - and she was right.  The rocoto (pepper) infusion gave the drink subtle heat, cooled off by the frothy cucumber foam.  Off to a great start.

This would have been the point in a meal where guests would usually have been offered food menus, if not before.  Instead came the plates of mystery meat (with a promise that we will get the menu after dinner, for the big 'reveal'). It was so much fun to try to guess what each course was as they came.  Play along with me as I relive the meal...


Course #1 

What I tasted/guessed:
White or red: White meat
Consistency - smooth, juicy, not too fibrous.  This made me think maybe quail, but...
Other clues: telltale skinny bones were not there, and the meat was a bit too light in color to be quail. There was some sort of unfamiliar cartilage that wasn't consistent with quail bone structure...

It couldn't possibly be chicken, could it? Has to be quail, I deduced - maybe some part of it I hadn't eaten before.

What it was: Culito de Pollo a La Brasa huancaina rustica, beet salad

Foiled! Brilliant to serve up the most common of fowl as the first course, just when people were expecting the exotic, to keep us guessing.  Yeah it was chicken, even though it was so juicy (even for dark meat) and smooth, and without that distinct chicken flavor, that I didn't think it was possible.  I stand corrected.  Perhaps it was the pungent herbed crust that masked the chicken taste.  But, the cutesy name 'culito' belies what it truly was - a euphemism for the business end of the hen.  That's what that cartilage was. I had just eaten chicken butt.  Really tasty though, especially paired with the refreshing, clean, beet salad.

Course #2

What I tasted/guessed: 
White or red meat: red
Consistency: on the crostini, the meat was like ground beef, and a little dry; on the risotto, the meat was tender and 'stripped' in long panels, like beef belly - the texture reminded me of the meat some Taiwanese places use in Niu Rou Mian (beef stew noodle soup)
Flavor - kind of gamey...
Other clues: Knowing Alpaca is a Peruvian specialty (llama-like creature), I figured Chef Zarate would use it at some point, and the crostini reminded me of what he sampled at the Los Angeles Food & Wine event last month - which was alpaca.   So I guessed alpaca for the crostini, and beef belly (for a twist from the usual pork belly)

What it was: Alpaca Two Ways alpaca stew, barley risotto and alpaca and chorizo crostini

Should have guessed since they were two presentations on the same plate, that it would be the same meat showcased two ways. Loved both preparations but liked the pairing with the barley risotto slightly more - the rich and creamy carbs went fantastically with the rich flavored, tender meat.

Course #3

What I tasted/guessed:
White or red meat: neither, this looked like offal but probably from a cow
Consistency: a little chewy, and in hefty, wide strands.  Is it offal or is it maybe 'skirt steak skin', super tenderized?
Other clues: has sort of crispy/crunchy exterior from frying, I think.

I couldn't make out what sort of offal this could be!

What it was: Choncholin braised intestine marinated in anticucho sauce, spicy rocoto. 

Really loved this dish, well balanced with the heft of the crispy potato chunks offsetting the slightly crispy, intensely flavorful and slightly chewy intestines. My only note was that the rocoto (orange looking sauce in photo, made of hot peppers) was super spicy and made my eyes water a bit, but that's just me not being able to handle my spice.  Loved the tamale inspired presentation on the corn husk.

Course #4

What I tasted/guessed:
White or red meat: neither, this one was easy to identify and I felt like maybe a 'freebie' from the chef...
Consistency: chewy, would have been rubbery if not well cooked to tenderness; most pieces have honeycomb-like structure
Finally, one that I could feel confident in identifying - I knew this one had to be tripe!

What it was: Cau-cau peruvian potato and tripe stew, jalapeno sarsa, cumin yogurt

Loved this dish - not only were the 'meat' for most of the dishes unfamiliar, the preparations were also a nice surprise.  I've typically had tripe with pho or at dim sum steamed with soy-based sauce. In Picca's preparation the tripe was cooked to perfect tenderness, soft and goes down easy, yet retaining its structure.  Loved that it was served in a rich, flavorful, starchy stew with a refreshing dollop of yogurt to break things up a bit.

Course #5

What I tasted/guessed:
White or red meat: neither, organ meat for sure
Consistency: chewy but still very tender.  My first thought was liver but it didn't have the 'crumbly' quality of cooked liver.  Whichever the organ, it was definitely from a cow, has that distinct beef taste.  Might have guessed heart next since that is a specialty at Picca.

What it was: Chanfainita beef lungs stew, peruvian mote

I thought this was a delicious, hearty stew (especially with the tomato base and giant kernels of Peruvian mote or corn) but that turned out not to be the organ of choice.  It's not the first time I've had lung but I usually have pork lung boiled into Chinese soup and don't actually see or eat the lung.  Foiled on this one!

Course #6

What I tasted:
The last course was dessert, and I was wondering how they would work in a protein.

I saw what looked like a berry sauce (a beautiful deep purple) over a white creamy pudding.  I tasted orbs of berries and lush sauce with carefully controlled sugar so it wasn't overbearingly sweet, and then more orbs of what I can only describe as like large maybe lima or broad beans that added a bit of crunch.  Followed by a massive crunch of something that was sharp and poked at the roof of my mouth.  Which I spat out.  No doubts about it - it was a chocolate cricket.

What it was: Sol Y Sombra rice pudding, mazzamora morada chocolate crickets

I like to think of myself as a pretty adventurous eater, but I draw the line at bugs.  This was the only dish in the meal that inspired true terror in me.  I couldn't even bring myself to take a photo of the half-chewed creature on my plate. *shudder*  Wish we could have ended the meal with something less...jarring.  Everything else in the glass was tasty.  I've never had 'mazzamora morada' before - quick research online shows it's a Peruvian dessert made with purple corn and fruit, thickened into pudding consistency with potato flour or corn starch, spiced with cloves and cinnamon. It did taste like a bit like blackberry pie filling except NOT sickly sugary.  I guess those big crunchy pieces that WEREN'T bugs that I thought were beans were actually giant kernels of corn? 

Cool to have tried this dish, even if I had to turn the plate so that I couldn't see the bug carcass anymore.

**************************

So, The Mystery Meat Dinner definitely broadened my horizons...I learned that I definitely don't have what it takes to be a good food detective...But the important thing was that I learned a lot and had one of the most entertaining and delicious meals this year. 

All in all, a fantastically fun concept dinner that I hope will make a regular appearance at Picca.  Maybe with the option to not include creatures that have more than four legs...and that would be the one time I would not go back and explore the other path.

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Picca Peru
9575 West Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90035
Ph: 310.277.0133

Parking: Valet $6.50 (there are meters on Pico, but they are really hard to get)

Website: piccaperu.com
Twitter: twitter.com/PiccaPeru
Look for reservations: opentable.com/picca
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Animal - Carnivores Gone Wild Mid-City Los Angeles

It took me *this long* to wander in to Animal, despite its convenient mid-city location - and once I got there, I can't believe how much time I'd lost without experiencing the fabulousness of this place.   Home of talented chefs who put out the cookbook "Two Dudes, One Pan Maximum flavor from a Minimalist Kitchen", Animal's food/ vibe is captured succinctly by the book title.  Three years from opening, there are still lines out the door on any given Saturday night. 

"Foodie Mentor" and I originally planned to slide in to the bar, right at opening - but several minutes lost to traffic resulted in other groups just slipping by us to fill the limited slots.  Luckily, thanks to a no-show and an amazingly hospitable hostess (imagine that!), we actually ended up with a two top in the dimly lit, yet very casual  dining room!

Even before getting seated, we were drooling ravenously over the single page menu, simple in design but rich in diverse flavors.  The menu changes daily, and I'm not sure if we just lucked out all the way, or if the Two Dudes are this consistently incredible - but every single dish listed lit our eyes on fire.  That the bottom of the menu warns: "changes and modifications politely declined" makes me fall in love with the place even more.  The chefs obviously put a lot of thought into their menu and it makes a lot of sense that they would want the dishes to be experienced as they were intended!    

Realizing eventually that our wallets and stomachs cannot physically handle every item on the menu - we finally made our choices begrudgingly, and decided to start off with the grilled baby broccoli, soft egg, pancetta vinaigrette, parmesan ($13).

This was simply amazing, and though I normally do not crave or get inspired by vegetables - this dish turned out to be one of my favorite veggie focused dishes of all time.  Though of course, true to theme, this was definitely not designed for vegetarians.  The baby broccoli was perfectly grilled, with just the right amount of crunch - and infused with such rich pancetta flavor, punctuated by vinegar and oil, that it sent us into an immediate feeding frenzy.  Temper that with shavings of nutty parmesan, and top off the heap with a beautifully poached, deliciously runny egg and you have perfection in a bowl.  We devoured this dish within seconds, like bears who had just come out of hibernation - leaving not so much as the carcass of its prey.  I never thought I would say this of any vegetable dish, but I could eat this every day for the rest of my life.

Next up was a dish we were super excited about - where there is a menu item that we are not familiar with, that is the one we consider it our mandate to order.  Foodie Mentor's sense of adventure, when it comes to food, is one of the things I love about her. 

So when we saw pig tails, "buffalo style", celery, ranch ($11), we knew immediately that we had to try it.  This seemed to really live up to the promise of the restaurant's name - it's all about the animal, in its holistic glory and celebrating every piece of it.  We chose not to ask our server what the dish would involve, preferring to be surprised - all part of the fun of a meal in a place like Animal!  I think in our minds, we expected an offal version of curly fries - cute little crunchy curlicues plucked from porcine behinds and plopped onto our plate.  When the dish arrived, it was a bit of a surprise, the 'tails' were chunks of meat with a bone in the middle (I guess the upper cut of the tail) - lightly fried and flavored with a sauce that you would normally associate with buffalo wings.  Overall, this was a tasty dish, but not as exotic as we had hoped - and reminded us more of buffalo wings made with short ribs.
 
A poutine fan ever since my visit to The Gorbals - I had no objections when Foodie Mentor recommended the poutine, oxtail gravy, cheddar ($15).  The oxtail was smooth, amazingly tender and flavorful, and provided a great contrast to the crispy fries underneath.  Animal does not skimp, and the mound of oxtail makes this a very hearty dish, a potential meal in itself.

Knowing what a foie fanatic I am, Foodie Mentor indulged me in the foie gras, biscuit, maple sausage gravy ($23).  This was another amazing dish and tied for my favorite for the night with the baby broccoli.

The foie was seared with skill, teasing out its earthiness and highlighting the creamy interior with a lightly crisped crust.  The whole thing was served at a perfect temperature and enhanced by the buttery, flaky biscuit drenched in a rich blend of savory / sweet in the maple sausage gravy.  I could still taste this dish in my mind, weeks after the meal.

My other big vice is bacon - and true to form, even Animal's dessert list offered up an item for the unrelenting carnivore - bacon chocolate crunch bar, s&p anglaise ($7).  I loved and inhaled this bar (barely retaining enough decorum to allow Foodie Mentor to have her share) - it was a perfect balance of creamy chocolate with crunchy salty bacon bits that cut through the sweetness nicely, and what tasted like toffee crumbs.  The warm, lightly sweet syrupy sauce added just the right amount of extra sweetness to the bar.

All in all, I found that Animal offers an exciting spread that makes rational human beings lose any sense of restraint - I for one fell prey to pure primal instinct to feed from the moment I set eyes on the menu.  There were so many things still left on the menu that I wanted to try, including veal brains and sweetbreads, and rabbit legs - no telling whether the same preparations would be on the menu again on my next visit - but one thing I know I can count on, is that we definitely would not be bored.  I also loved that you can experience the menu that dares to be different, without the snootiness of some fine-dining venues.  You get the sense that the chefs' disclaimer about declining substitutions is more about sharing their visions of what their dishes are meant to be, served true to the way they were conceived, than about any sort of elitist attitude.  I definitely plan to be back soon.  And all this over vertebrates...as someone who is normally much more excited by creatures of the sea - this definitely propels the Dudes' most recent venture, Son of a Gun (seafood focused restaurant that just opened shop yesterday) - to the top of my list of places to bolt to next.


On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%

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Animal Restaurant
435 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90036
Ph: 323.782.9225

Website: animalrestaurant.com

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1MB Travels: Hong Kong: Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant

Much as I love my friends, foodie or not, when one says they "really like Chinese food" and gives Panda Express as an example, it makes me really, really, really sad.  I may be completely biased as I consider myself lucky to have grown up with it, and know that 'real' Chinese food does not consist of 'item combo' plates of battered meat that look like they could glow in the dark, or single-note stir-fries, but a nearly limitless feast on an ever-spinning lazy susan of wide-ranging ingredients, unique flavor profiles and regional preparations.

That is why I love Hong Kong - all kinds of regional cuisines running the gamut from haute to homey are a snap of the chopsticks away, that are either not easily accessible or not well done in the U.S.  One of my favorite cuisines is Chiu Chow for its beautifully simple but flavorful dishes.  In my last visit to HK, I was introduced to Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant 百樂潮州 in Causeway Bay, its entrance half hidden in a recessed hallway in an office building.

The only visible sign of the restaurant from the street is a butcher window, that at any standard Chinese restaurant would have marinated chickens, ducks and/or barbecue pork hanging from the racks, but at Pak Loh has whole crabs dangling by their claws.  This is as cold crab is a famous Chiu Chow dish, as possibly the only traditional Chinese cuisine that serves the crustacean cold.

The inside of the restaurant is no frills, unlike the latest western style Chinese restaurants with ostentatious interior design and locations at the top of highrises - but it is clean and comfortable.

Chiu Chow meals always start with a serving of tiny cups of 'Kung Fu Tea' - literally just enough for one mouthful.  I'm told these 'shots' have at least twice the caffeine of normal teas, but have never investigated - it's a little more bitter than regular Chinese teas served at restaurants, and definitely wakes you (and your taste buds?) up before the feast.

We started off with Lo Shui Sliced Goose ("Soyed Goose Slices" on the menu, HK$150 ~$19) 鹵水鹅片.  "Lo Shui" is a type of soy based marinade and a Chiu Chow signature preparation for all kinds of meats.  The goose slices at Pak Loh were tender, and the saltiness well balanced with the sweet & sour dipping sauce (not the Panda Express kind, but a clear, liquid sauce).

Next up is a childhood favorite - Omelette with baby oysters 香煎蠔仔烙.  The name is pretty much self explanatory. This dish is a bit about contrasts - the omelette is fried to a crisp on the outside, which sandwiches the creamy oysters in every bite.  Pak Loh's version was fine, but not as incredible as I've had at other places, mainly because the oysters did not retain their structure, and was sort of an amorphous, gelatinous spread inside the egg.

There is a Chiu Chow dish that I had as a kid, that I had not been able to find in the U.S., which up until Pak Loh I had mistakenly believed to be stir fried bone marrow (which led to the disappointment with American/Italian preparations like roasted bone marrow, which is not the same consistency at all).  The Chinese name is "quat shui" 脊髓- the first word means "bone".  In fear of mad cow disease, my parents had warned me away from this dish in recent years.  However, on this visit I had a huge craving for it and absolutely had to have it before I left.  So my mom kindly relented and ordered up a dish that was named on the menu as Stewed Abalone with...*drum roll*...Boned Goose Web and Cow's Spinal Cord (HK$118 ~US$15) 鹅掌脊髓.  Yep, big revelation that surprised even my parents.  In terms of consistency, cow spinal cord sort of feels like gnocchi, but a bit firmer and more chewy, without the separation of shell and filling, and tube-shaped.  I haven't found anything else that tastes and feels like this - so although the thought of what it is may be a little appalling, since I grew up with this dish and like the taste and feel, it didn't bother me.  Boneless goose web (which I'd never had) functioned the same as the baby corn and mushrooms, to offset the tender chewy pieces with crunch.

Another childhood favorite is "Tong Cho Mein" ("Fried Crispy E-fu Noodles served with Sugar and Vinegar" on menu, HK$88 ~US$11) 乾煎糖醋麵.  This is like a pancake of thin egg noodles pan-fried on both sides to a beautiful golden brown, which you then season with vinegar and sugar - and is a shining example of sweet and sour done right.  Every mouthful is a combination of crispy, chewy, light crunch from the granulated sugar that lends sweetness to the savory noodles, and vinegar to hydrate the mix and provide a burst of sour to counterbalance the sweet.

Simple, yet deliciously designed layers of flavor and texture.

We finished off the meal with 'Crystal Baos' ("Steamed Sweet Crystal Dumplings" on menu, HK$24 ~US$3) 水晶包 - another Chiu Chow signature dish, so named for the transparent mochi-like dough wrapped surrounding lotus seed paste.  In this case, two types of lotus seed paste are served up - red and white.  At Pak Loh the crystal bao dough was perfectly chewy, and the paste was smooth and served at just the right right temperature - hot but not enough to scorch the roof of your mouth.

All in all, a lovely family dinner.  As expected at the end of a Chiu Chow meal, the same tea served at the beginning is also offered at the end (the better to wake you up from food coma, because you WILL overeat) before stepping out into the night. 

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 5 bites
Ambience - 5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 90%

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Hong Kong
Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant 百樂潮州
G/F 23-25 Hyson Ave., Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
Ph: 852-2576-8886

Website: pakloh.com
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