Quenelle: Burbank Like Rain: Desert

'Real' ice cream lovers in Burbank rejoice: John Park, most recently pastry chef at Lukshon and Father's Office (who has also worked at 2 Michelin-starred Providence and Water Grill) has just opened his own place in a neighborhood known mostly for corporate chain food or 'suburban quality' mom and pops, and absolutely starved for talent of his caliber.

A neighborhood shoppe on a quiet stretch of Magnolia between chain-riddled downtown Burbank, and the hustle and bustle of expansive studio lots, Quenelle's arrival draws foodies forward like a long awaited rain shower in the desert. 

 

First off, they have ice cream flavors that you would have never dreamed of being able to get in the depths of suburbia - from Orange Blossom Water to Caramelized Pineapple to Thai Iced Tea. 

I had been drooling for weeks over the R&D photos Chef Park had been posting on his Instagram (quenellespoon) and couldn't wait to try absolutely everything.

On my first visit, I went straight for the Soursop ice cream ($3.50 small $5.50 large), a fruit that as the friendly cashier said resembles Cherimoya in taste (it is afterall from the same genus).  Delicate in flavor but perfectly creamy in texture, I was in love at first bite. 

My second scoop was Blood Orange, a bright flavor that strikes a perfect balance in sugar/acidity and texture and brings the sunshine and depth of the fruit into each spoonful.

Chef Park also brings his pastry chef talents to unique toppings (more on that in a bit) and delicious cookies, (bacon-cheddar!!!) scones and other pastry treats.

I've tried the Nutella cookie (waiting to go back when they have the Nutella Fluffer Nutter!!!) and the linzer, which were tasty...

I wanted to bring truckloads of their ice cream / baked goods home with me that first day, but as I had dangled Quenelle as incentive / worthy goal for myself to actually exercise (I biked multiple miles to get there...the payoff was worth it) I couldn't carry any of it back with me and had to wait til I could be back by car.

On the next visit I tried Blueberry Pie and Strawberry Shortcake ice creams - and checked out some of their awesome toppings: caramelized rice and chocolate feuillettine ($1 each).  The caramelized rice was like the most delicious, refined, skillfully crafted gourmet version of a rice krispies treat you've ever had, broken up into bits for a clean crisp crunch to go with your ice cream.  I loved the flaky crunchy chocolate feuillettine as well, but the caramelized rice is the one I dream of...

And Quenelle also offers gourmet pops: I enjoyed the Hibiscus Watermelon (need to try girl scout cookie inspired Thin Mint next!!).

But the push-pops, I had to have.  Sadly, they had already sold out of the Mango Lemongrass push-pops that had me salivating via Instagram.  When I heard that they only make about 20 push-pops a day, which sell out pretty quickly - I made sure to return first thing the next morning, a difficult thing for a decidedly non-morning person, but I set 3 alarms and it was worth it.   They didn't have the Mango Lemongrass, but the flavor of the day was White Peach and Cream ($5) and it brought all the fun of childhood with taste and quality for the developed adult palate.

Quenelle has easily already won me over to become one of my favorite places in the SFV.  And because it's bike-able distance for me, I know it's actually going to help me stay in shape - because I am definitely going to be back - many, many times.

Note that it doesn't really have any seating yet - there is only a kid's table with a single kid sized chair - so if you're visiting with a group it might be advisable to drive so that you can enjoy your treats sitting in your car...(or bring a cooler / insulated bag with ice for travel).

If you are in the Valley (and if you're not) - drive, bike, walk - hurry over and check it out before it gets crowded!!

Update November 2013:  Ok, after many, many visits, my favorite treats are: thin mint pop (tastes like a much, much refined cold and creamy version of the Girl Scout cookie fav, encased in chocolate shell), peanut butter and jelly pop (the shell is peanut butter - and you can taste the peanuts as if they were fresh ground...jelly swirled inside ice cream in pop), blueberry pie ice cream, mango lemongrass push-pop (the mango in here is super fresh, and the push pop is so fun to eat!), caramelized pineapple ice cream. Toppings? Caramelized rice and chocolate coconut feuilletine are amazing, every time.

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Quenelle

2214 W Magnolia Blvd., Unit A, Burbank, CA 91506

Ph: 818.843.1035

Parking: Street parking

Website: facebook.com/quenellespoon (site not yet live - check Facebook page for updates)

***Note: Cash Only, so bring lots of it of you're planning to try a bunch of treats!***

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Epicure Imports Warehouse Sale: Why I Don't Really Want to Tell You About It (CLOSED)

I love my new job.  In West LA. Love the new friends I've made. Hate the commute from the SFV though, and was intending to move. Until now.

A friend who doesn't consider herself a 'foodie' but knows good food like nobody's business, told me about this gourmet warehouse sale, right near my 'hood - that is amazing: Epicure Imports. After checking it out this weekend, I want to stay right where I am, yes, to be as close to this awesome little warehouse as possible.

Epicure Imports' primary business is selling gourmet goods to hotels, higher-end grocery stores and specialty retailers.  Once in a while, they open their treasure trove warehouse to the public in two day sales, Friday and Saturday (the September sale was 9/14 and 9/15).  Yesterday, I got up at an ungodly hour of morning to beat the crowds - the warehouse sale opens at 9:30am and I managed to get over there by 9:40 (pat myself on the back). I am SO not a morning person, so it will take something major on a weekend to get me out the door that early - and it was a good thing I did as I got the very last spot in the small parking lot. 

Inside, the set up really was as others have described, like a miniature Costco with towering racks of goods in a no-frills space  - *except that the food will not just blow your mind in terms of price, but quality and selection*.  And, hearing French accents everywhere (from customer reps to the shoppers around me) - I knew this place was going to be legit. I died several times strolling through it.

There were two sides to the warehouse; let's start with my favorite - the refrigerated side: I almost got whiplash from trying to take in all the deliciousness on offer at once (and trying to make sure I spot and grab popular items before they sell out) - but almost "foodgasmed" on the spot when I saw a table of amazing butters: Echire Butter ($7.37) Urbani Truffle Butter (white: 3 oz $10.07 6 oz $19.61 black 6oz $16.43).  I haven't seen any other place open to the public that sold Echire butter - supposedly the best butter in the world, so much so that it's protected, like champagne - only butter from that region in France can be sold under that name.  Joel Robuchon uses it (in amazing oysters that I had at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon on my last trip to Vegas).  So I was ecstatic to be able to pick up a bar at just a few bucks more than mass produced, grocery store butter.  Also, the price on that black truffle butter is also amazing, especially for Urbani (designer truffle brand) - a 'regular' tub of truffle butter normally goes for around that same price at retail.

The Fabrique Delices brand was also well represented at the sale - there were tons of products in the refrigerated area from them.  One of these, for those into bacon products of all sorts, was Bacon Butter ($6.36).  I'm a bacon fan, and could imagine this butter being great in a sandwich, but I am MORE of a truffle and duck fan and decided that's where I was going to focus my shopping spree this time round.

One of the exciting things about Epicure Imports is that they carried lots of brands/things I'd never seen before: one of these was the Tartuflanghe Perlage di Tartufo truffle pearls ($21.15) - these were basically black truffle juice in caviar form. 

This one was a necessary splurge.  For someone who doesn't cook much, this was an ingredient that could add an instant, effortless touch of luxe to ordinary foods.  I made some soft scrambled eggs this morning for brunch, topped with a dollop of this truffle caviar - and it was amazing.

Then there were the mouth-watering imported cheeses: including one of my favorites of all time, a triple cream cow's milk cheese from France called Brillat Savarin (small 200g $9.38 large 500g $15.64) - you can sometimes find these at Whole Foods or artisan cheese stores, but the large one will run you closer to $25.  Score! (They also conveniently have a cart full of baguettes in the other section of the store for $2.50 so you can go home and enjoy your cheese with bread right away - very thoughtful!)

A cheese I hadn't seen before came in a cool package wrapped in leaves: Banon de Chalais cow's milk cheese ($4.19) at that price I thought it was worth 'experimenting' - will let you know how it tastes once I've tried it!

There were other cheeses - some are domestic from Vermont Creamery ones - including Boschetto (with black and white truffles!) - but as a single household I didn't want to overdo it and end up wasting some.  Very happy with the Brillat Savarin and Chalais cheese already, and will grab some others on my next trip to Epicure Imports!

Oh actually, I lie.  I did pick up some DiStefano fresh made local Burrata as well, at $2.65 each. I skipped the smoked salmon and anchovies etc. even though they looked beautiful...as I was on a mission.  Truffles, cheese, duck.

The full rack of Fabrique Delices charcuterie called my name.

The first thing I picked up was the Fabrique Delices Boudin Blanc aux Truffes pork and chicken sausage with truffles ($10.12/lb) - keeping this in the freezer for a nice weeknight breakfast for dinner meal. 

Oh, did I mention that while you shop - like Costco, Epicure Imports gives out tons of samples so you can try before you buy?  Sausages on the grill filled the space with an intoxicatingly delicious sizzle and char.

There were also beautiful slices of salami and other cured meats for sampling.

As well as pates - even one that has truffle in it (of course my fav!)  And everyone was super friendly and welcoming - it really felt like you were at the local farmers market versus a warehouse.

On the non-refrigerated side, they have several aisles of shelf-stable gourmet goods from imported olives, to flavored olive oils, nut oils to fruit and balsamic vinegars. 

I love the packaging on some of these items too - perfect for gifting to food-loving friends.  This balsamic vinegar made me think of an old school ink pot - it just needs a quill-shaped re-stopper to complete the set.  Putting this on my list as a gift idea for food-writer friends (oops did I just ruin the surprise?!)

There was a whole aisle of spices and condiments - I picked up a box of Smoked Maldon Sea Salt Flakes ($4.93) and Camargue Fleur del Sel ($9.81).  A girl can never have too much salt, right?

Then at last, the truffle aisle. I was in heaven flitting from shelf to shelf of things that sound insanely good. Urbani which really has the market cornered on truffles and truffle products - was everywhere: White Truffle flavoring, Truffle Honey, and White Truffle Salt ($30.05).

Urbani Truffle Sauce ($7.37) and Truffle Carpaccio (!!!)

I loved the branding on these tins: "Truffle Thrills" - that's the kind of culinary adventure I'd sign up for.  Got a tin of White Truffle and Porcini ($12.67) even though Urbani's site lists it for $9.95 and LAFunghi sells these at local farmers markets - I was just in the mood.

There were other ingredients that I hadn't seen before, like Crimson Lentils...

...and Green Peppercorns in a can. 

Also available are ethnic goods that you can probably find cheaper at markets focused on the respective cultures (like I'm not going to get Sriracha from here when I can buy at Ranch 99) - but for those who don't know of or want to drive out o specialty markets, Epicure Imports carries things like Cortas Rose Water / Orange Blossom Water ($2.97).  I love orange blossom anything and can't wait to try this - maybe in panna cotta? Do share if you have any recipe recommendations!

I skipped over chocolates and sweet things for the most part, as I still have a stash of Max Brenner and Compartes treats I'm working my way through - but Epicure Imports had some awesome offerings like Valrhona chocolate bars ($4.50) and Le Caramel, a CA produced Sea Salt Caramel Cream that would be amazing over ice cream (I had to get a jar of this after tasting their sample - incredibly light and smooth, perfectly balanced between salty and sweet - not at all dense with sickly sweet sugar like most other caramel - I am not normally a caramel fan but loved this one!!!) There were also lots of fruit preserves and jams.

They had a tin of Gavottes but it was over $48!  So I went for another brand that I hadn't seen around town: La Mere Poulard cookies ($13.20) - love the design of the tin!

After stacking my cart as much as I dared (I already know even with the savings I'm gonna have to stay in for a while to recover budget-wise), it took about a half hour to go through checkout. The long lines are definitely justified - so happy with all my purchases!  So, seems that this is already a popular event with those who know - and I struggled selfishly with whether to post about it - it was already packed when I went early on that second day of the sale (and I know I mostly won't be able to hit up the first days, usually Fridays, as I'll be at work in WLA).  And, its local small business vibe is so perfect I kind of don't want it to change as word spreads.  But, it's too good not to share - afterall I also only did make my way there at the generosity of a friend - and also I truly hope that Epicure Imports continues to expand and be super successful!!!

Looks like they hold these a few times a year.  Next warehouse sale is November 16 & 17!  Sign up for their free newsletter to get updates! (And remember to bring an insulated bag with ice pack when you go!)

[For more pictures from my visit to Epicure Imports, check out my album on Facebook.]


UPDATE October 2015: Unfortunately, Epicure Imports has announced that they have closed for business.

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Epicure Imports
6900 Beck Ave., North Hollywood, CA 91605
Ph: 818.985.9800

Parking: Free in attached lot or on street (of course, double check street signs before parking)

Website: epicureimports.wordpress.com

Next warehouse sale: November 16 & 17, 2012
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Fifty Shades of Sucksicle: Suck It Sweets N Treats (MOVED)

Just stayed in all weekend to finish reading that new 'literary classic' (heavy sarcasm), Fifty Shades of Grey as, *cough* pop culture research.  When they make a movie adaptation, I think it would be appropriate for it to be in tone a cross between American Psycho and Never Been Kissed - i.e. dark cheese.

As it was insanely hot (as in weather) in the Valley (as in the SFV), I segued from 'lit porn' to 'foodporn': choosing to cool down at an adorable little shop on Tujunga beguilingly named Suck It Sweets N Treats. It's sort of the reverse of Fifty Shades though - where the title implies subtleties then hits you with raw content - SISNT has an attention-getting name which belies its actually very refined offerings of artisanal-gluten-free-frozen-treats-on-a-stick (otherwise known as popsicles, but they can't use that name which is apparently trademarked) in intriguing gourmet flavors, made with all natural, farmers market fresh ingredients, no sugar added.

Double entendres and innuendos aside, the shop is actually impossibly quaint in a modern yet timeless kind of way - as if it were put together by a team that is Anthropologie meets Urban Outfitters. Based on the name alone, you might have expected irreverent, in-your-face, over-the-top 'Touch of Romance' type themes in the shop, but instead it was an exquisite little space with old-timey soda fountain shop style windows, teal walls adorned with ornate white framed pics of adorable puppies and kitties (as in baby cats, get your mind out of the gutter), and eclectic decorative pieces like ceramic gnomes.   On my first (previous) visit here, the only 'sucksicle' that had really made me feel naughty was the Dill Pickle - it was literally shaped like a ____ ("oh, my" as Ana would say, because that's realistically how 21-year-olds talk in America in 2011).  But it tasted amazing, maybe one of the best and most interesting popsicles I've ever had, though it took a moment to get used to. Fresh, fresh fresh dill in frozen dill pickle juice. I devoured that thing.

They have a rotating daily specials menu ($3 each) with intriguing flavors from Lavendar Lemonade (tastes like the spa, as a fellow customer had said) to Cucumber Lime Mint (which does taste very much like dill pickle) to Mexican Chocolate to cleaner flavors like fresh Watermelon.  So it's not 50 flavors at once, but there's always something to spark a craving.

Today, I felt like something light and refreshing. With a name I can play with, since I had just finished reading the first book in the series and was in the mood for cheesy puns.  So I opted for the Oro Blanco sucksicle.  Enjoyed in the (charming little) back garden.

It was tasty.  And will make me come...back...again and again.

And that's all I have to say about that.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Suck It Sweet and Treats
4361 1/2 Tujunga Ave., Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 818.980.7825

Website: suckitsweets.com

UPDATE August 2014:  they've now closed the shop in Studio City and moved to be inside the giant candy store in the Hollywood & Highland complex.




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SUGARFISH by Nozawa Studio City: 'Trust Me', Not Really Omakase But Fine By Me

The 'Sushi Nazi' - Chef Kazunori Nozawa - a purist sushi artisan, who as legend had it, would toss guests out if they dare to order a California Roll at his counter - ceded in February this year, his culinary landmark restaurant in an indescript strip mall in Studio City, to his son who has been successful with a more modern 'new school' sushi chain: SUGARFISH.

With popular locations already in Santa Monica, Marina del Rey, Brentwood and Downtown LA, this location brings SUGARFISH back to where it all started.  As regular readers know, I am a sucker for that perfect storm of good food + great ambience + great service, and so to me SUGARFISH is in many ways a very welcome shift from old school to new school.  Replacing that austere, no frills, venetian-blinded, spottily lit library-quiet hole in the wall, is an airy, well-designed yet unpretentious, relaxed space. 

Paying homage to the previous 'Trust-Me' decor behind the old counter, is a new wall of chic colorful artwork emblazoned with that same slogan. Replacing the ubiquitous sushi counter where the in concept intimidating Nozawa-san is an open and inviting dining room, with the kitchen moved to the back, out of sight, for "maximum efficiency" that allows for delivery of "good sushi at a fair price". 

The new concept is also said to take inspiration from Nozawa-san's Trust Me style of service - where there is no set menu, but diners rather give themselves over to the chef to deliver the freshest cuts of fish for the day, adjusted for the diner's tastes.  However, in reality what SUGARFISH offers isn't 'omakase' at all - the concept has more similarities to In N Out Burger than traditional omakase.  There are basically 3 preset 'Trust Me' menus, with only 1 of the 3 offering a 'Daily Special'. 

Pricing looked great for sushi lovers on a budget, at $19.75, $29.50 and $39 each, with 6, 7 and 9 different types of rolls respectively.  You can also order various other types of rolls and sashimi from the a la carte menu, also not exorbitantly priced at quick glance.  But the proof is in the quality of the fish, right?  I 'splurged' and went for The Nozawa menu ($39) to see how it works and to sample the widest variety of fish, within the three preset menus.  First came the Organic Edamame, a staple served with any of the three menus. 

Next up: Tuna Sashimi: Right off the bat, this was non-traditional - instead of clean slices of fish, the meat was sort of diced up and served in a shallow bath of ponzu.  Freshness was there, but on the whole this dish not mindblowing and I didn't really love the amount of sauce which slightly overpowered the fish.

The trio of nigiri won me over with lush textures and incredibly fresh, clean with minimal yet beautiful garnish.  There were two pieces each of Albacore, Salmon and Snapper Sushi.  Gently brushed with fresh made ponzu and/or with hints of yuzu.  I was so excited that you can get this quality of fish for the price ($39 for essentially 9 servings of fish!).  My only note is that the rice (on pretty much all the sushi actually) could be a little more cohesive and soft - right now it's a little hard where some of the grains stand out.  But, they did just open when I went so hopefully that is something that will be worked out in time.  I do like that the rice is not served as warm as Nozawa's, but not entirely cold either - somewhere in between.

The Yellowtail Sushi were not photogenic at all, but possibly the best bites I've ever had of this fish in LA.  Yep, I just said it. It was the incredibly fresh, lovely texture that glides into your mouth and *doesn't* melt but gives you the tenderest, smoothest chew.

The Halibut Sushi smooth, perfectly sliced flecked with yuzu kosho and cut through nicely with the acidity of house made ponzu.

Toro Hand Roll loved that they serve this with a perfectly crisp sheet of nori.  Have I used the word 'fresh' for their fish yet? 

Blue Crab Hand Roll same as the Toro Hand Roll: crisp nori, fresh (shell)fish.  Enough said.

Lastly from The Nozawa menu: the eagerly anticipated Daily Special: on this day, it was Halibut Sashimi.  Like the tuna at the start of the meal, it's not the typically sliced presentation, but chopped up and served in ponzu.  Presentation in food is pretty important to me - there is a threshold that good food should meet in terms of looking minimally appetizing.  If it's the most luxurious ingredients in the world - let's say all my favorites, foie, black truffle and uni - mashed up in a blender to look like puke and slopped onto a plate, I'm not really going to want to eat it - and the visuals may involuntarily alter my experience of taste.  And that's sort of what happened with this one. I didn't finish the bowl.

Though I was fairly full after the prix fixe, there were items on the a la carte menu that were either more exciting or so baffling to me that meant I had to try them.  Like Oyster Sashimi ($5.75).  With oysters usually served raw, doesn't that already make it 'sashimi'?  Do they simply mean oysters taken out of their shell and sliced? 

What arrived was a plump oyster, split down the middle almost all the way, and spread open so that it sort of looks like...a pair of lungs.  Which for some reason DID appeal to me - I don't think I've ever seen oyster served like this before, kind of like a really clean, beautiful 'anatomy of an oyster' presentation: breath-taking! And the ponzu cut smartly through the creamy, mild and naturally slightly sweet oyster flavors perfectly, with a bit of chopped scallions adding crunch.  LOVED this dish - it may be one of my favorites at SUGARFISH.  You may say, this is a bit pricey for a single oyster, but it's a substantial size, probably equal to three or four kumamotos. And trust me, the taste and texture?  Worth it.

Sweet Shrimp Sushi ($6.75) so the a la carte items were quite a bit more expensive.  Amaebi or raw shrimp is one of my favorites, when fresh out of the ocean and prepared just right.  Plus you feel like you got a 'bonus' when they either fry up the shrimp heads or serve them up in miso soup for you.  At SUGARFISH, the shrimp was fresh, but not translucent, tailess, and headless.  They didn't serve the heads on the side.  While it was tasty, I didn't think this one was worth the price.

Uni ($9.75) the uni is amazing here, plump, fresh, tasting of the sea, with rice wrapped neatly in crisp nori.  But is worth almost $10 for 2 pieces?  It's a splurge.  I think you can get this quality at other places, some even in the Valley.   

Halibut Fin Sashimi ($6.50) engawa has become one of my favorites since I first tried it at Sushi Gen - this cut of fish takes its name from the exterior hallways of a traditional Japanese house, and references the halibut's side dorsal fin. 

It's a thin slice of muscle that is fatty and concentrated in flavor, with a texture unlike any other sushi fish I've had - sort of 'panelled' or 'striped'.  You don't see it offered at every sushi spot in town, so I was excited to see it on the SUGARFISH menu.  But, again for some bizarre reason SUGARFISH likes to mangle their sashimi (I should have saved my puke reference up above, in halibut sashimi section, for this plate).  Not only is it not appetizing in appearance - this preparation completely kills the main thing that makes the cut of fish unique - its texture.  And again drowned in the ponzu.  I would not order this plate again.

 I have to say that the service was friendly and attentive.  My server came by to ask how everything was, and when I mentioned the fish that I liked, he mentioned that they have an off-menu item that is his favorite, and asked if I wanted to try it.  I was stuffed at that point, but he said the magic words, "off menu" - so of course I had to go for it!  

The off menu item was Albacore Belly - a nice, smooth, fatty cut:  if ankimo (monkfish liver) is the foie gras of the sea, then I would say this fish is the pork belly of the sea.  Loved it.

All in all, though there were massive hits and epic misses, overall SUGARFISH is a fantastic and welcome shift and addition to the neighborhood. 

It's great to be able to make a quick meal of high quality sushi at affordable prices - even if you have to stick to more common types of fish in the prix fixe menus.  Plus that oyster sashimi which will be a 'must eat' for me - I've already been back again and can forsee many more visits.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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SUGARFISH by sushi nozawa
11288 Ventura Blvd # C, Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 818.762.2322

Website: sugarfishsushi.com
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