Sweet Rose Creamery: Handcrafted Ice Cream in Creative Flavors at Brentwood Country Mart

Sweet Rose Creamery comes with a pedigree: its owners, husband and wife team Josh Loeb & Zoe Nathan, also own and run Milo & Olive, Huckleberry Cafe, and Rustic Canyon Wine Bar & Seasonal Kitchen. Its chef, Shiho Yoshikawa, worked in the kitchens of Tartine (where she met Zoe).

But its pedigree is not what drew me (and the persistent lines of frozen treat seekers) there. 

The ice creams, sorbets and dairy free treats are made small batch, from scratch daily using organic milk, cream, antibiotic and hormone free eggs, plus fresh seasonal ingredients from the reputed best farmers market in the city: Santa Monica Farmers Market.

You can taste all the care they put into their products - and they also definitely keep their menu interesting with unusual flavors from Rose Geranium with Raspberry Ripple to Honey Goat Cheese.

On my recent visit I had to try:

Loquat Compote: great little bursts of brilliant orange loquat.

Dessert Tomato: love savory ice creams and this had a nice balance of sweet and slightly tart - though I'm glad I tried it, it's not one I would repeat.

Cherimoya: this one was hands down my favorite - first time I had seen this flavor in ice cream I think - and after sampling it I not only got a scoop but snagged a pint to go! 

Apparently I had just caught the end of the cherimoya season and wanted to stock up before the flavor went off rotation.

 

Though the ice cream is in texture not as smooth and creamy as Neveux, the flavors are unique and the location is convenient for Westsiders (and especially for me).

The adorable location at Brentwood Country Mart is just the next complex over from Pressed Juicery - a must stop for me at least once a week for my Greens in liquid form. Couldn't believe it had taken me this long to hit up Sweet Rose Creamery when it is practically right next door. On any given day/ night of the week there are throngs of people in line in & out the door, or enjoying their treats on the patio tables. 

Will definitely be adding it to my itinerary for my ritual stops at the neighboring complexes especially this summer: Pressed Juicery, Farmshop (for croissants/pain au chocolat), Sweet Rose Creamery. (Love that they - SRC - are open late too - til 11pm daily).

Now that we're in cherry season - can't wait to go back to check out what chef Shiho does with them!

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Sweet Rose Creamery

225 26th St, Suite 51, Santa Monica, CA 90402

Ph: 310.260.2663

 

Parking: In open air lot surrounding Brentwood Country Mart complex

 

Website: sweetrosecreamery.com

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Shunji: Matsuhisa for Mortals?

It was a semi-dark and stormy evening.  I was dreading the long haul home from West LA back to the Valley.  Then a memory beckoned to me like a beacon in the night - of a chain of posts on Chowhound talking about the reincarnation of a utopic place that I had been sad I didn't get around to visiting before it shuttered - Shunji's.

Exec chef/owner Shunji Nakao was one of the original three chefs at Matsuhisa in the late 80's (along with his brother and Nobu Matsuhisa).  Shunji and his brother went on to run the highly successful (and one of the few Michelin-starred restaurants in LA) Asanebo in Studio City - before Shunji had moved on to his own spot on Melrose.  And after splitting from the owner of Shunji's, chef Shuji took his namesake with him...as luck would have it for me, to West LA very close to my new office. 

The new Shunji is in a most unexpected venue - the spot previously occupied by Mr. Cecil's Ribs, on Pico.  It's a distinctively shaped (round) standalone building - and because they have only just soft opened March 1st, the sign currently just says "Japanese Cuisine".  The 'disguised' location works out perfectly for me - all the better to be able to experience Chef Shunji's creations in peace, before word spreads and the place starts getting packed.

So, I pulled over that night on my way home, right when the restaurant opened at 6:15.  I was the only person for a good hour or so - and considered myself lucky to get to see Chef Shunji at work at the sushi bar, and had a blast chatting with super friendly server Yuko. 

Right now they are only serving dinner - the staff is lean and Chef Shunji is pretty much handling all the food on his own.  The dinner menu looked exciting (you can get oysters on the half shell with uni!! oyster/uni tempura!), with fairly reasonable prices ($10 and under for a lot of items), but I knew that with access to such a talented chef, omakase was really the way to go.  Chowhound told me it would be $80 for omakase, which is actually not too bad at all for quality sushi.  Little did I know I was to have a mind-blowing meal full of new discoveries, of the caliber of LudoBites or Le Comptoir. 

Course 1: Jellyfish, cucumber, radish, red onion in sake sauce - though jellyfish is common in Chinese cuisine, I don't recall ever encountering it in Japanese cooking.  Chef Shunji serves it cold, with slices of cucumber, daikon and red onion in a sake sauce.  The texture of the jellyfish was incredible - soft and flowing yet with a crisp crunch.  This paired well with the 'like' crunch of the veggie accompaniments, and all in a shallow bath of sake sauce, served in a glass.  A very lovely start.

As Shunji carefully crafted the next course I could see that it would become one of my favorites. The care with which he arranged the pieces, reminded me of an artist or sculptor at work.

Course 2: Veggie platter with happy ends (not official name, I made this up) - the artistry of this course reminded me of a recent plate by Chef Gary Menes, but with a much more playful aesthetic (pop-art to Chef Menes' fine art), and seafood as bookends to the freshest cuts of fun looking veggies.  From left to right: ankimo (monkfish liver) and caviar, squash, lotus root, daikon, peas, purple daikon, okra, turnip, string bean, kabocha (Japanese pumpkin), celery, burdock root, sweet potato ball with truffle and feta cheese, purple potato ball with blue cheese and dried persimmon, Costa Rican 'sparkle squid'.  Every piece of veggie was beautifully fresh and all set off fireworks on my taste buds!  But I was glad that the chef advised to eat all the veggies first, then end with the pieces of seafood - I wanted to keep the taste of both in my mouth forever.  The ankimo was gorgeously light and airy, with the brine from caviar cutting nicely through the rich buttery flavor. 

The delicate little  'sparkle squid' (not entirely sure if that's the proper name), a rare find from Costa Rica, was something I'd never had before - and absolutely ethereal - like it just got plucked from the ocean minutes before, still glistening with sea water. Chef Shunji put a little dab of something that tasted very slightly spicy on its head, and the light bit of heat went perfectly with the flavors of the squid! 

The only things on the plate that I wasn't a big fan of were the potato-cheese-balls.  They were a little too dry, dense and pungent, and to me didn't seem to go with the other objects of almost other-worldly-levity on the plate.

In any case - I loved this course.

Course 3: Steamed Bamboo, Uni, Bamboo, Seaweed in Chorizo & Ramps Dashi.  I don't know how Chef Shunji even thought to put these things together.  But the steamed bamboo was one of the best preparations I've ever had - I never thought that bamboo could be its own main attraction like that - usually it's embellishment in some other dish like ramen (or in Chinese cuisine, part of different soups or stir fry).  The steamed bamboo was served carved up into triangular sections - and were tender, but with a clean crunch that reminded me of beets or hearts of palm, lovely sprinkled with fleur de sel.  To counterbalance the mild flavors of the bamboo, there was a roasted tomato that had been marinated with vinegar.  Then there was a bowl filled with sea urchin, more bamboo pieces, fresh seaweed - all in a clear and slightly starchy broth made with chorizo and ramps.  A truly lovely and unique dish - creatures and plants of land and sea came together in one bowl.  Mind-blown.

Course 4: Squid in Squid Ink and Uni with Quail Egg + Seared Kanpachi with Miso Sauce + Allegra Flowers - just when I was still mulling over the new and unusual flavors of the previous dishes, the Best Dish of the Night arrived, catching me completely off guard.  It seems like Italians have mixed squid ink with sea urchin already (love the squid ink pasta with uni and jalapeno at Osteria Mozza!), but I've never had squid sashimi in squid ink mixed with uni and topped by a quail egg.  This one at first triggered memories of the squid ink rice pudding I had at LudoBites 8.0 - which I didn't like - but Chef Shunji's invention was very different in that the freshest squid was used (where Ludo's was rice pudding shaped and textured to resemble squid), and the squid ink was tempered and made smooth and not so clotted by mixed in sea urchin - which also gave it an unbelievable umami that was transcendent.  I was advised to eat first a bit of the squid on its own, then to mix in the quail egg for even greater lusciousness.  I loved every bit of this and would come back in just for a taste - possibly every night before I go home.  And this all balanced perfectly with the gorgeously seared, smokey-tasting kanpachi, dabbed with sesame sauce for more umami, and finished off with a lovely sprig of edible Allegra flower (plucked from a potted plant at the end of the bar, so super fresh). 

Then, as we were talking about meals and dishes elsewhere I've been recently impressed with, I mentioned Ludo's foie gras soup - and Yuko said: "Oh, Chef Shunji used to do a Japanese foie gras soup he invented a long time ago.  Maybe he will make it again for you - not sure if he has the ingredients but let's ask".  And with a delighted grin, as if someone had just awarded him the $656 million lottery jackpot, Chef Shunji pulled out his 'secret stash' of foie and went to work on Course 5: to recreate his soup - which turned out to be a taro potato gazpacho with winter melon, yams, yuzu zest and shaved foie gras torchon on top.  The foie was almost brittle looking, or looked from a distance like it could be chicken or pulled pork.  I didn't love the large chunks of softened orange yam in the soup - but adored the creative fusion of Japanese/French flavors in the foie, yuzu and sweet potato.  I almost licked the bowl clean.

Course 6: Roasted Eggplant, Miso, Fried Shrimp, Shitake Mushroom, Fresh Seaweed - resuming the 'regular' omakase, next up was another innovative roll that I've never seen anywhere else before: roasted eggplant was topped by a miso paste, then pieces of pan-fried shrimp and shitake mushroom.  This was a delicious combination of the 'fruits' of ocean and earth again that really brought the umami.

Course 7: Black Cod with Enoki and Shitake Mushrooms in Mushroom Dashi - the last hot course of the meal, this was simple and clean, with a lovely piece of black cod (skin on!) in a clear mushroom broth, beautifully arranged with enoki and shitake mushrooms. 

At this point other patrons started to arrive, and I was getting full - Yuko asked if I had room for anything else.  At the beginning of the meal it had been mentioned that they have very nice cuts of bluefin tuna and toro in today - so I coudn't leave without trying those.  The bluefin tuna was a breathtaking rich almost burgundy color, and was lush and delicious.  I also loved that Chef Shunji grates a wasabi root right in front of you to make the freshest wasabi possible for the sushi.   

The Toro was so tender and fatty and fresh, I had to close my eyes for a moment to truly savor the bites.  Chef Shunji puts salt crystals on one of the pieces too for texturing and flavor, but both pieces were amazing.

All in all, I was glad the storm and need to delay my journey home - brought me to this new home away from home.  The hospitality was world class, and I loved my mind-blowing dinner at not too much wallet-damage ($80 omakase plus a glass of wine ($9) plus extra course of foie gazpacho ($12) and extra pieces of sushi ($10 for toro).  Affordable for mere mortals.  I can't wait to go back.  And the only reason I'm telling you about this instead of keeping it to myself, is that everyone should get to experience Chef Shunji's amazing creations at least once - and I'm really rooting for this venture to succeed, as they deserve to be around for a long, long time. 

On a 7 point scale:Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 5 stars
Service - 5 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100%

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Shunji
12244 W Pico Blvd., Los Angeles,CA 90064
Ph: 310.826.4737

Parking: Free lot attached to restaurant

Website: shunji-ns.com
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Santa Monica Farmers Market - Wednesday Mornings For the Pros

Santa Monica Farmers Market - the Wednesday morning one - had always been the stuff of legend among food lovers. The one that pro chefs go to.  The one whose inaccessibility to mere (i.e. working) mortals who don't live/work in the area adds all the more to its near mythological appeal. No, it wasn't inaccessible because of some elitist VIPs only rule or some financial filter of an astronomical admission fee.  It's just that it's open only during hours that most people are at work - and if your office doesn't happen to be within walking/short driving distance of the market - then you're just out of luck.

So it was, that when I found myself with a few weekdays off, in between a job in the Valley I had poured nearly four years into, and a new one I was incredibly excited about to kick off a new chapter of my life - that Santa Monica's Wednesday market came to mind as something I can finally do, before I plug back into the 9-6 work day!

I'd be remiss not to start the tale of my adventure with a confession though: still not a morning person (never was, never will be), I didn't get up at the crack o' dawn to go.

I arrived at the market - a block from the beach, under sunbathed blue sky and shiny happy towering palms - in time to catch the last hour of the market, when lunch was being served.  So the first stall I noticed of course was FIG Santa Monica, super appropriate as its Executive Chef, Ray Garcia, is known for his farm to table approach to seasonal California cuisine.  So what better place to have an outpost, than at the nearby Farmers Market, close to sources of the amazingly fresh ingredients of his dishes?  The descriptions on the blackboard alone made me drool, but you can also watch the chefs in the tent cooking on portable grills in the open kitchen.  Loved this, but as I was going to have lunch elsewhere soon - and I knew I could always hit the lovely Fairmont Miramar down the street for FIG's fare, I didn't end up eating from the stall that day.  But many locals did, in their shirts and ties and pencil skirts, perched on bar-tables set up closeby for the lunch rush.

Perhaps befitting the neighborhood, or just because I got there around closing time, I didn't really see any other cooked food stalls beyond that. Moved on to check out the produce and other offerings!  There were a few things that I haven't seen at other markets - like Zutanos, a type of avocado with skin that's a lighter green and thinner than what you normally see at grocery stores.  And prices are not that bad at $1 each!

There were also kumquats at $1.50 a basket!! 

Flower vendors offered all kinds of herbs in planters, and some flowers I haven't seen before.  Like the huge blossoms of cabbage flowers - apparently not for the plate as they're not edible, but great as table or garden decor. 

I actually did expect to see a more eye-opening assortment of exotic produce, herbs, fruits etc. - unusual things that would catch your eye on a menu at a fine dining place.  I guess I may have romanticized the SM Farmers Market in my mind as sort of this Shangri-La of markets, overflowing with greenery and surprises.  But again maybe I just missed all that earlier in the morning - perhaps the pros and all the good stuff are both gone within the first few hours.  In any case, I was still excited to have been able to experience the place. 

Where SMFM was more impressive than other Farmers Markets in the city, was in the meat 'department'.  There was lamb, rabbit, and grassfed bison!  Would have loved to grab some fresh lamb and bison - if only I hadn't been on my way to lunch elsewhere and missed grabbing my cooler bag in my rush to get out to the market before it closed!

Seafood of course is also for sale, though I'm sure most restaurants have their own private suppliers for that.  It was nice to see Ventura Fish Company at SMFM (they are also at Studio City Farmers Market Sundays) - and this time they had more info on their quarterly(ish) buy-fish-fresh-off-the-boat events (which will be a seaprate post coming soon!).  Their rep was kind enough to provide a bag with ice, so I was able to grab some of their Spicy Smoked Skipjack to take home (so delicious spread over crackers!).   

Another vendor I've seen at Hollywood Farmers Market, Yasutomi Farms, was also there with their lovely Japanese produce from Momotaro tomatoes (less acidic than beefsteak ones) to Komatsuna (spinach), to Mizuna (water greens).  The difference was, at least with the Mizuna - every leaf was impeccable, and the greens seem to be grown in individual bunches, each with a sponge attached: its roots are embedded in it and constantly retains moisture - so that they last a lot longer!  I couldn't believe these perfect greens were only $1.25 a bag - I bought some to put in semi-fresh ramen from Nijiya Market, and they stayed perfect in my fridge (no wilting) for a week, and were delicious!!!

At other Farmers Markets, I love visiting LAFunghi for their exotic mushrooms.  There wasn't any other vendor as big / well branded as them at SMFM, but they did have a purveyor of exotic mushrooms offering Yellowfoot Chanterelles, Black Trompettes, and...wait for it...

...domestic white truffles!  I almost missed it, as they needed to be kept cool and out of sunlight, so the vendor had them hidden away in a small cooler, with a small signpost above it, the only indication of their existence. 

So there was (in my overactive imagination) an element of intrigue, almost like you're buying contraband or something, as he carefully lifts the cooler lid just a tad, enough for you to 'see the goods' which are still out of sight from other guests strolling through the market.  These babies are from Mount Shasta up in Oregon, for $20/oz.  I got a small pebble-sized one for $6 to shave over soft scrambled eggs and was in HEAVEN.  You do get what you pay for, so it wasn't the most fragrant white truffle I've ever had, but for $6 an affordable splurge for a foodie in between jobs!

One more stall I was excited to check out was Two Peas in a Pod: purveyors of all kinds of beans, many of which I had not seen before - like 'mauve runners' and 'money beans' (white with purple speckles)!

They also had cute little jars of mixed beans that would look great sitting on a counter - before you turn it into something delicious.  I was intrigued by this and the free recipe that they gave out for soup (and I don't even normally like beans! Or recipes with lots of steps as I just don't have time after work!).  But this one looks so good I just might try it one weekend.
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Two Peas in a Pod Bean Soup
Ingredients:
1 pound dried beans
4 cups sliced yellow onions (about 3)
1/4 cup olive oil
2-4 garlic cloves minced
1 large rosemary branch (6-7" long)
2 quarts chicken stock
1 bay leaf
2 tsp kosher salt to taste
1/2 tsp fresh ground pepper to taste
Preparation:
1. In medium bowl, soak beans in water covered by at least 1", and leave in fridge for 6 hours to overnight.
2. Drain
3. In large stock point over low to medium heat, saute sliced onions with olive oil until onions are translucent, about 10-15 minutes
4. Add garlic and cook over low heat for 3-4 minutes
5. Add drained beans, rosemary, chicken stock and bay leaf
6. Cover and bring to boil. Simmer 30-40 minutes (bean should be very soft)
7. Remove rosemary branch and bay leaf
8. Blend soup with hand blender in pot or place in bowl of food processor/blender and pulse until coarsely pureed
9. Return soup to pot.  Reheat and add salt & pepper to taste.
10. Serve hot.  Makes 6 servings.

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All in al, though on this visit I didn't find the legendary SMFM Wednesday market life-changing, I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to go and check it out for myself (and scored a $6 white truffle plus flawless mizuna to boot!).  If I ever happen to have another Wednesday off I may go again, and try to get up earlier in the day to see if it's any different.

Until then, Hollywood Farmers Market (aka "The HFM") remains my favorite farmers market in LA for representing the flavors of LA: its abundance of produce and fresh herb selection, diverse and large variety of street food, and entertainment value (with people watching and street entertainers).  The peoples' farmers market.

[Feast on more photos from fantastic farmers market finds around LA at my Facebook page!]

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Santa Monica Farmers Market 
Wednesdays 8:30am - 1:30pm
Arizona Avenue (between 4th & Ocean), Santa Monica, CA 90405  
Parking: Public parking structures free for two hours (closest on 2nd St between Santa Monica & Broadway)

Website: smgov.net/portals/farmersmarket
Twitter: @smfms
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Farmshop - Brunch of Champignons

Farmshop has one of the best brunches I've ever had in my life. 

On a bright Sunday morning, my brunch buddy "Curses" and I headed out for the first time to the restaurant slash marketplace in the heart of Brentwood Country Mart - which would feel like a place straight out of Napa Valley, or some quaint little semi-rural gathering place in the South of France, if not for its population of characters who look like they just came from the set of The Hills (complete with costumes), a photoshoot for Anthropologie, or some unaired pilot for the Real Househusbands of Brentwood.

The space itself, we loved - airy and awash in natural light, rustic with wooden tables and trim, while sophisticated and chic at the same time with cool exposed bulbs hanging from lush woven silk ropes and carefully placed, minimalist greenery.  It almost made us forget the 15 minute wait (even with reservations...) and people passing us by, who we thought had arrived after us.  But within minutes of tasting the food, we would see why this place is always, always packed.

We started off with the Pastry Basket choose three pastries, seasonal preserves & spring hill butter ($12.50) - actually Curses wanted to get this and at first I objected, as the 'hot' menu items seemed so much more exciting and I wanted to save room for that.  But Curses is much wiser than me - you can only have so many egg dishes - and the pastry basket (well, really, pastry plate) turned out to be mindblowing.  We went with our servers' recommendations, and they were all unbelievably fresh and delicious - we had the Huckleberry Pear Danish ($3.50 a la carte):  Lemon Yogurt & Preserve Muffin ($3 a la carte): Herb Goat Cheese Scone ($4 a la carte).  

Our hands down favorite was the Herb Goat Cheese Scone - this was so light, fluffy and buttery it was more like a biscuit than a scone. Served steaming hot like it just got pulled from the oven, and fragrant with herbs so fresh we could imagine it being plucked from the garden minutes before.  So, savvy saveurs might say wait, the prices of the individual pastries add up to less than $12.50...I guess the extra charges are for the freshmade, gorgeous golden preserves (yes, you can taste the sun peeking betwen the oranges on the tree before they made it to your plate) and luscious slab of butter sprinkled with coarse sea salt (do they keep a cow in the back?)

As our second 'appetizer', I just had to have the Deviled Eggs once I read the description - it's served with smoked Idaho trout, upland cress & tarragon ($8) a bit of an unusual combination, and turns out the fish is worked into the hardboiled egg yolks for a tasty, stepped up, surf & turf inspired, brilliantly glammed up version of a classic egg dish.  For those who might balk at fish for breakfast - the taste of trout is very subtle.

I'm a huge seafood and mushroom and egg lover, and Curses already predicted before we even set foot in the place that I would dive right in for the Coddled Eggs as my main - served with smoked salmon, mushroom conserva, toast ($14.50).  This may have become one of my favorite brunch dishes of all time.  Eggs (that tasted like they just came out of a hen) were mixed with water and steamed into an incredibly smooth, light custard, then topped with beautiful mushrooms and chives for counterbalancing crunch and rich, earthy flavor.  The refined / restrained taste of the egg dish is then offset by lush slices of salty smoked salmon.  I was in heaven with every bite. Didn't even get to the toast - which I totally ignored.  LOVED the egg, and I wanted 10 more bowls... 

We must have been on some unspoken mushroom + egg kick, as Curses also decided on a funghi focused dish for her main: Frittata roasted wild mushrooms, melted leeks, drake family farm chevre, za'tar oil ($18).  This also blew our minds.  With this and the coddled egg dish, Farmshop manages to infuse creativity into breakfast/brunch, a meal that is not known for innovation - and unexpected world cuisine influence as well, with the oil made with za'tar, a middle eastern blend of spices, sesame and salt, and the preparation of coddled egg reminding me of a Chinese classic home cooked dish, steamed egg.  And leeks, with eggs? Genius.  Loved this dish.  Some may say $14-$18 for egg dishes is pricey - but I would say those people have not tried these eggs.  They're worth every penny.

We were also entertained by the couple next to us - the guy (complete with bold scarf and non-prescription glasses) was shocked, and possibly outraged, when in answer to his question, the server said the ingredients of his dish would be organic, but not sustainable.  It must have been with great restraint that he was able to bring himself to settle for the 'unethical'.  Thus, the concept of costumed brunch was born - looking forward to the next venue selection with Curses and what roles we would play for the meal.

Anyways, after our fab brunch, we were excited to walk it off by strolling through the open marketplace attached to the restaurant.

There was the bakery counter with perfect little croissants and meringued tarts, case of gourmet cheeses, and of course a small section to earn its name - farm fresh produce.  They had some gorgeous chanterelle mushrooms as well as beautiful green beans, onions, shallots... 

...and a perfect stash of multi-colored carrots.  Next to gourmet bags of beans and grains. 

The cured meats section looks amazing as well!

I felt like a kid in a candy store, with the selection of gourmet goods spread around the market as well - from Duck Rillette in a jar, pates, Straus ice cream in the freezer, all kinds of gourmet salts...  

...and my love for Farmshop was cemented, when I spotted little jars of SQIRL jams and preserves on a shelf.  (They even had my all-time fav: Nagami Kumquat & Chamomile preserves!!) So appropriate as SQIRL preserves are as farm fresh as you can get - they are literally sunshine preserved in a little jar.

Outside of Farmshop, you can also enjoy a leisurely morning strolling through the cute little boutiques at Brentwood Country Mart - there's a great book store, handprinted paper goods store, a few clothing stores, a candy store and nice spots for coffee or gelato.

Yes, Farmshop (and Brentwood Country Mart) definitely makes me feel like I'm on vacation without huge expense.  A staycation spot, if you will.  A little taste of the gentrified countryside, without ever leaving the city.  Amazing food and people watching.  I can't wait to make another trip.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6.5 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 5.5 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Farmshop 
Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Suite 25, Santa Monica, CA 90402
Ph: 310.566.2400

Parking:  Park in strip mall lot attached to restaurant
Website: farmshopla.com

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Stella Rossa - Raising the Bar on Farm to Table Pizza in Santa Monica

What's a chef with The Fat Duck, Nobu, Arzak, and L20 on his resume, and 9 Michelin stars at last count in his trail, doing at a pizza bar in Santa Monica?  That's the burning question I sought to answer, when I was invited to a hosted dinner this past weekend at Stella Rossa Pizza Bar and to meet its chef-partner, 27-year-old Jeff Mahin.  An hour and a bit, one cheese plate and three pizzas later, my conclusion is this:  Chef Mahin is there to change the way we look at and enjoy pizza, by simply doing what he loves.

The son of a civil construction engineer and metallurgist, Chef Mahin left a job at Nobu New York at 17 years old to 'take a break' to study science and math at UC Berkeley. Then he decided he wanted to pursue cooking in earnest, and with the background in science, it made all the sense in the world for him to get into molecular gastronomy. Obviously a guy who does whatever he sets his mind to, he then applied on a whim and landed a job at 3-Michelin-Starred London eatery The Fat Duck, in Heston Blumenthal's famed culinary lab.

From there, if you look at it this way, the transition to Stella Rossa is arguably just as natural: to reference a familiar scientific / philosophic rule - Ockham's Razor states 'the simplest of competing theories should be preferred to the more complex'.  And with the early Japanese influence in his life (and his continuing love of sushi) - you can see, as he's explained, the philosophy of Japanese food carries over - subtraction, not addition, letting natural flavors shine. Simple food, done well with fresh ingredients can be exquisite. 

The result of Chef Mahin's science background combined with his passion for local ingredients is pizza that borders on a religious experience.

Laid back and unaffected (his favorite food to make at home is soup - "I could drink Miso soup for the rest of my life") Chef Mahin's chill personality belies a drive for perfection.  His goal may just be for Stella Rossa to be a fun place to work, making a universally loved simple food, but his talents direct him to go beyond the ordinary.  After many trials, he landed on a mix of locally milled flour, filtered water, sea salt and fresh yeast for his pizza dough.  This is fermented for at least 18 hours in individual containers - to allow the dough to 'age' properly. Each mound is only removed from the container at the proper 'rise', immediately before use, for optimal freshness.

The fresh yeast apparently gives the dough a less sour taste, which allows for a better bread-like 'canvas', the better for flavor-infused pizza crusts that work in balance with, and don't  overshadow, farm fresh ingredients sourced from the best of Santa Monica Farmers Market.

It was fun sitting at the counter to watch Chef Mahin in action.  He demonstrated how to toss the dough, working air into the sides for a fluffy crust while stretching out the center - til it's translucent - for an incredibly light, thin pie, the better for showcasing toppings.

Then goes the pies into the Baker's Pride ovens. Much has been written about the lack of fancy wood-burning or brick ovens here, but Chef Mahin's recipe was calculated to work best with the ovens he has.  As he good-naturedly quips: "I'd love to get an inscription over the oven, in Latin or something, that says "I'd rather be criticized for our oven and praised for our pizza, than praised for our oven and criticized for our pizza."

While the pizzas were baking, we noshed on Fresh Local Burrata ($10.95) with organic extra virgin olive oil, sea salt - creatively paired with wood fire roasted grapes and housemade bread.  All simple ingredients, but incredible in every way. 

The burrata (locally sourced from Di Stefano) was one of the most smooth and creamy I've ever had - and in my mind rivals the cheese handcrafted at Osteria Mozza daily.  Chef Mahin intended to present two different kinds of sweetness between the cheese and fruit, which comes through nicely - and is elevated by light grilling, giving great interplay of cold/warm and layered textures with creamy cheese and crunchy grapes atop crispy, toasted, deliciously fragrant housemade bread.  Top it all off with Olave extra virgin olive oil from Chile - chosen for its light, buttery, sweet finish - and you have a dish that is absolutely divine. (This olive oil is also used on all SR's pizzas! Chef Mahin see his crusts as more like bread - and prefers olive oil with bread versus butter as olive oil is much more nuanced.)

SR was extremely generous with the tasting, sampling three pizzas for me that night.  The first was Bloomsdale Spinach ($13.95) with crispy purple kale, young pecorino, cracked black peppercorn, organic extra virgin olive oil. 

It was the unique topping combinations that got me.  Chef Mahin selects not only from whatever inspires at the farmers market, but also what works best on his pizza dough without weighing it down, and what will shine with its clean and balanced flavors.

Though the first and last time I had kale - as a side dish from a catered meal elsewhere - I hated it (too bitter and rigid), I'd read many great things about SR's Bloomsdale Spinach pizza and I figured I'd give the veggie another try.

Then I took a bite, and become a Believer.

Again balance was key - the brushes of green with petals of purple, sprinkled with tiny curlicues of cheese were not only gorgeous to look at, but struck a perfect balance of tastes and textures with creamy sweet/savory spinach and paper-thin crisps of slightly bitter kale, and buttery, nutty gossamer pecorino. 

All this on the lightest layer of bread, surrounded by a thick outer crust which got me food-drunk with its doughy smell and golden-brown crispy outer shell, that yielded to a pillowy center with nice chew.  I still can't believe Chef Mahin got me to like kale - but it turned from hate to love at first bite.


Just when I thought I'd found my favorite, the Shaved Mushroom ($13.95) with gruyère, melted onions, black truffle, torn parsley, rosemary, thyme arrived.
 
Regular readers know I'm a sucker for truffle and mushrooms.  That these are thrown in with rosemary, thyme and gruyere made it almost statistically impossible for me not to like this pizza.  What I especially loved: all ingredients are finely chopped, so they melted and blended well into each other, making each mouthful a smorgasbord of rich and balanced flavors.  Though I didn't see actual truffle shavings (RIP 8 1/2 Taverna), I ended up liking that the truffle aroma/taste is not so pronounced as to overwhelm the rest of the pizza.  And again, a crust so perfect it made my eyes roll to the back of my head.

I also got to try the pizza special: Butternut Squash with Candied Bacon and Taleggio.  The squash was thinly shaved and almost salmon-colored, draped in light folds over the pizza, and beautifully garnished with fresh basil leaves.  I loved that all ingredients were again incredibly fresh, applied with a skillful, light hand - and of course it had me at 'bacon'.  I did find the squash a little too sweet, but really liked that the cheese was barely there - unlike most heavy handed pizzerias which load their pies up with artery cloggers in dense blankets. And. Again. That. Crust.

I thought I would be ready to burst after all that food - but apparently my stomach is bottomless, and cried out when a fellow diner started raving about dessert. She said the Salted Caramel Pot de Creme with maldon salt was amazing - and knowing caramel was one thing Chef Mahin mentioned in other interviews that he'd spent a lot of time at The Fat Duck lab perfecting, I just had to try it. 

The eggless custard  came in a glass jar - thick and creamy topped by runny amber colored liquid caramel, punctuated by salt crystals to cut through the sweetness.  A perfect finish to the meal!

All in all, loved Stella Rossa, which has proven that simplest can be best.  There's no novel length list of ingredients to hide behind, no gravity-defying feats of architecture or mind-boggling products of chemistry on your plate to serve as distraction. At Stella Rossa, it's just you and the beautiful crust and fresh ingredients.  Pure, clean, local flavors, served up in top form.

Very happy to have a pizza place to love, that I can now add to my list of favorite restaurants on the Westside. 

[For more photos from Stella Rossa, check out the album on my Facebook page]

[Deal alert: Text STELLA to 30364 to receive periodic messages with offers like free appetizer or dessert. Standard messaging rates may apply.]

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%
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Stella Rossa Pizza Bar
2000 Main Street, Santa Monica, CA 90405
Ph: 310.396.9250

Parking: Valet $7, meter parking on Main north of Pico free after 6pm (double check signs before parking, of course)

Website: stellarossapizzabar.com
Twitter: twitter.com/stellarossasm
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*This meal was hosted.

Ocean & Vine at Loews Santa Monica - dineLA & Happy Hour by the Sea (Feels Like Vacation)

How did I spend so many years in LA and never set foot in Loews Santa Monica? 

The sunlit hotel is pretty much on the beach - and last Sunday "Designer" and I were excited to check out TWO spots inside - spurred by the dineLA dinner deal and daily Happy Hour on the poolside terrace with a view of the Pacific!


The atrium / lobby was breathtaking - with towering palm trees underneath the skylit glass roof, and a waterfall wall behind the reception desk offering soothing background noise.  I didn't notice this until friends started pointing it out recently - but apparently whenever I really like a place I say: "it feels like you're on vacation".  Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel makes me feel like I'm on a tropical getaway, without the kitsch.

After taking in the decor for a brief moment, we made our way outside to Papillon, the poolside, beachfront lounge complete with wicker seating and fire pits.  Papillon offers Happy Hour every evening from 5-8pm, with a shortlist of cocktails, wines and appetizers for $6.60 each.  That's considered a great deal pretty much anywhere in LA - but the idea that it comes with gorgeous beach views, where you can sip and graze in an upscale but unpretentious setting, makes this an absolute hidden gem.

We found a table fairly easily (though I think we pretty much got the second to last open one!) and settled in to enjoy the view.  Though we were heading to Ocean & Vine for dineLA, we couldn't help wanting to check out the appetizers while we're there (that way we know what to expect for next time, as we already decided we were lame for not discovering this place sooner - we could have lounged here all summer!)

There were six appetizers to choose from. Our unanimous first choice was the Santa Monica Ceviche with lime, chili and cilantro marinated shrimp, baja sea scallops, salmon, guacamole, tortilla chips.  This was a decent sized platter, and the ceviche and guacamole tasted fairly fresh. But though I appreciated the thoughtful menu (they didn't just serve generic 'bar bites'), and understood these were offered at a pretty low price for SM beachfront property - the quality wasn't something we dreamed about after we left.  Not sure that I would crave it, if it weren't for the view. 

We allowed ourselves to indulge in one more appetizer (after pushing dinner back by an hour and a half!) - Duck Taquitos with mango salsa, guacamole, pico de gallo.  I was excited about this one - but not sure if it was because the service was a bit slow that night, that the taquito lost a bit of crispness and heat before we bit into them, and the duck was a bit dry, but again the trio of dips were fresh tasting, and I would say 'not bad for the view'. 

I guess we could sit on the beach for free - but I liked Papillon, again for making me feel like I'm on vacation.  Plus, you can drink at Papillon...

There are beers, champagne, wines and cocktails on the menu, but our server let us know the cocktails would pretty much be standard mixed drinks like rum & coke (they used to serve  pina coladas but not anymore :/ )

So, Designer decided on champagne and I went for the red sangria.  Of the two, I would recommend the champagne (the sangria tasted like 'a drink inspired by wine' and not really real wine with fruit - too diluted and only a piece or two of token fruit).

The terrace offered great views of the Santa Monica Pier, which was especially gorgeous around sunset with the ferris-wheel-light-show and palm trees blooming against the watercolored sky-sea-sand. 

As the sun retreated for the night, we made our way inside to the Ocean & Vine dining area.  I was excited about this menu as there were some dishes we have not tried before AND this was one of the dineLA deals with the biggest savings versus items on the regular menu ($34 for 3-courses, with estimated savings $29)!

After a pretty delicious bread basket containing what I thought was carrot bread (there were some orange - subtle, not dayglo - pieces in the mix) we both of course went for the seafood starter: Santa Monica Chili with Laughing Bird Shrimp, Baja Sea Scallops, Lump Crab, Roasted Garlic, Fava Beans ($16 on regular menu).  This reminded us of a bouillabaise but lighter and a tad spicy.  All the seafood tasted really fresh, and we appreciated that the shrimp was not overcooked, but tasted made to order.

Four thumbs up on this one.

For my main, I went for the Grapevine Smoked Beef Tenderloin Cold Smoked with a Hint of the Vine, Caramelized Onion, Cognac Beef Marrow Glaze, Artichoke Chips, Black Barley Pilaf ($38 on regular menu!!!).  This in itself justifies the price of the dineLA dinner deal - a perfectly cooked (medium rare of course) piece of beef that is rich with flavor (I'm guessing grass fed!).  Loved the marrow glaze and the sides as well - the sides were forgettable individually, but as a whole texturally served as a nice 'foil' to the tenderloin along with the original artichoke chips.

It did feel a bit Freaky Friday with me ordering meat and Designer ordering fish, but we shared everything anyway and were both curious as to how Catalina Thresher Shark with
Ginger Persimmon Nage, Pacific Lobster Mashed Potatoes, Agave Glazed Heirloom Carrots and Beets would taste (and it was not on the regular menu!).

Our server let us know the texture of the shark would resemble swordfish, which then deflated our expectations as neither of us were fans of swordfish - we both liked our fish tender and velvety smooth.  We should have guessed that the meat would be tough, as sharks of course swim constantly, are lean and pretty much all muscle.  We were glad we tried it, but probably wouldn't order it again anywhere else. The lobster mashed potatoes was the star on this plate.

As I already got my money's worth with the tenderloin alone, I wasn't as mad as I would have been to have wasted my dessert on the Warm Sweet Potato Lasagna with Vanilla Cream, Pecan Caramel (not on regular menu).  I love creativity and risk-taking in food, so in that regard I respect and applaud this dish.  However, the execution left us wanting less of a soggy, rubbery pile of flavorless pasta sheets layered with dehydrated meat and cognitive-dissonance-causing caramel and vanilla creme, and more of a sophisticated interplay of sweet and savory (the disparate elements didn't come together coherently for me).   

Designer wisely chose the Pear Chestnut Crème Brulée with Pistachio Tuile (not on regular menu, closest comparable item is Peaches 'N Creme Brulee for $9). This was an interesting twist on a french classic - the mix of juicy sweet pear pieces with earthy, softly crunchy chestnuts for me worked quite well with the crisp burnt sugar top and creaminess of the interior.

All in all, a great value for dineLA prix fixe - despite the faltering on the one dessert choice - you get to dine in a relaxed but beautiful setting, AND if so inclined - to grab a few cocktails out by the ocean before dinner at Happy Hour prices.

We will definitely be back again to Papillon for Happy Hour, and maybe dinner at Ocean & Vine at some point when we're able to splurge!

[For photos from other meals / deals from dineLA Fall 2011, check out the album on my Facebook page]

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5.5 bites
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 4.5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 5.5 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $$$$ (4 bite marks regular menu)
Probability of return visit - 100% (for Happy Hour & view)
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Papillon
Happy Hour - Daily 5-8pm Wine, select cocktails and appetizers $6.60

Ocean & Vine  
dineLA dinner - $34

Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, 1700 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica, California, 90401
Ph: 866.563.9792    

Parking:  Meters on Ocean Ave 2-hour limit, or free after 6pm daily; meters on Main Street 2-hour limit, free after 6pm and free Sundays (of course, double check street signs)

Website: santamonicaloewshotel.com
OpenTable: Look for reservations
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