North Pole Snow Cream: Snowburger Mashes Tropics with Arctic

Frozen treats have always been one of my Achilles heels - but the extent of creativity in this area has mostly been new flavors and ingredients in ice cream / gelato / shaved ice / custards.

Until Churroborough created an ice cream sandwich with churro discs instead of cookies.

And then people started substituting other carbs.  And then, the Snow Burger arrived and upended the ice cream sandwich inside out.  I was hooked from the first time I had it.

North Pole Snow Cream makes their Snow Burgers ($4) with snow (a frozen treat shaved down from large blocks similar to shaved ice, but whose consistency is creamier than shaved ice, but more airy and light than ice cream) + any topping (really more of a mix in, in the case of a Snow Burger) + any drizzle of your choice, then finishes it off by sticking that between two hawaiian buns.

Then here's the magic touch: the whole 'burger' is then pressed so that you get warm buns + cold snow cream, for an amazing interplay that is simultaneously comforting as hot cocoa, while wrapped up in a snuggie, by a roaring fire on a night in the frozen tundra.  While watching a travel show about some place in the scorching tropics, and ukulele music is playing in the background.

Yep, that is North Pole Snow Cream.

You can choose from more than 20 different flavors of 'snow', including dairy free ones, more than 20 toppings, and six different drizzles.  I LOVE that in this part of the San FERNANDO Valley, you can choose from flavors of snow that include black sesame and taro, as well as fun flavors like tiramisu, horchata and pistachio; toppings that include various flavors of boba, as well as red bean, and drizzle that includes condensed milk.

The snow cream creators behind the counter may be young guys, but they really know their flavors - and have been super helpful with recommendations for combos every time that I had been there.  After heeding their advice and trying the melon snow + fruit jelly + strawberry + condensed milk Snow Burger, I was hooked, and although I'd made it my mission to try as many combos as possible since I love this dessert so much, my favorite has remained that one that I had the first time, for its subtle sweetness cut through nicely by the hint of tart from the strawberries which all played well with the hawaiian buns.

A definite must try for those who live / work in the area, and also a great alternative dessert stop for those who may have traveled to Universal Studios Hollywood but looking for a change of pace from Citywalk.

Also of note, it can be difficult to find good coffee in this immediate area, and North Pole Snow Cream serves Intelligentsia coffee!!!

AND, it's open late - til 11pm Mondays to Thursdays and Sundays, midnight Fridays and Saturdays.

The strip mall parking lot in front of the shop is really small, so parking can be challenging during the day / evening, but later at night it's easier to find street parking on Ventura.  Or, you can risk parking in the free Rite Aid / Ralphs lot across and down the street and take a short walk.

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North Pole Snow Cream & White Drop Espresso
11048 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 323.203.1114

(Other location: 201 E Magnolia Blvd., Suite #119, Burbank, CA 91502)

Website: northpolesnowcream.com
Twitter: @northpolesnow 

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No Substitutions: Night of Exceeding Pallor

I am normally a 'life gives me lemons, make lemon sabayon tart happen by-finding-some-incredible-more-than-half-off-deal-and-stacking-miles/loyalty-points-on-top' kind of girl.  And I've always seen this as a positive thing.

But lately, I've been learning there are instances in which this makes me my own worst enemy.  When the Right Thing fails to show or be found, I tend to just look for the Next Best Thing.  Afterall, that's how I make a living.  I problem solve.  I creatively problem solve.  And find the best possible alternative given set constraints, or contingencies.  Whatever it takes to get the job done. I make it work.   So why not in my personal life as well?  As if I have a choice - it's in my DNA.

So it was that when the much anticipated Science and Food lecture that was to feature Rene Redzepi - executive chef and co-owner of Noma, the world's current best restaurant - that was supposed to happen tonight at UCLA - was announced to have been postponed, true to form I tried to make the best of it...

I remembered that another world renowned chef, Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame, had also spoken on science and food not too long ago, and set out to find video of the session as substitute for what tonight could've been.  As luck would have it, LA Times had just reported availability of the video at iTunes University, and it was free! Digging around, I found the app also contains videos of lectures by other culinary luminaries including Wylie Dufresne and Grant Achatz - all free to view! I saved the link to savor when I got home.  Awesome, right?  Except it's not at all the same as an in-person experience, and instead of allocating an hour or two and waiting for what I really wanted to see in the first place - now I'm going to spend every free moment NOT doing my taxes and other things that I need to do, and instead procrastinating by watching every last video on the couch.

But first I had to grab dinner:  remembering Ramen Yamadaya was to have just opened its Valley outpost yesterday (widely publicized as April 1st), I thought I could make the most of the derailed night with their fantastic 20 hour tonkotsu on the way home.  All day, I could taste it in my head, and looked forward to getting my hands on a soul-soothing bowl after work.

But as I pulled into the strip mall - I saw windows still papered over - the restaurant dark (despite banners emblazoned with "Grand Opening 4/1!!!"). Disappointed, but thinking unforeseen circumstances forced them to push the opening back - I also knew I could come back another day: the location was on my way home from work.  But I was still hungry, and instead of doing the smart thing - going home and saving money to return another day - I drove around looking for any other Japanese place that caught my eye. 
That place turned out to be Izakaya M - my Next Best Thing. And apparently, I've yet to learn that the Next Best Thing hardly if ever surprises you and turns out to be the Right Thing.  Especially when it's picked simply because it was there.

As always with the Next Best Thing, at first it seemed full of promise - I was beyond excited to see, in the Valley, dammnit, words like "sting ray", "tongue", "heart" and kobe wrapped, foie topped toro on the menu.

I wasn't about to commit $36 to the kobe-toro-foie though (much as it sounded like a trifecta) without knowing the quality of the food here, so I stuck with small plates.

I had tried BBQ Sting Ray recently, on a trip to Singapore, and LOVED its skate wing-like, flakey meat - so couldn't wait to dive into the dish of Sting Ray Fin Karaage ($7).  Normally you would see the word karaage in association with chicken - but Izakaya M was deep frying Sting Ray Fin. 

As soon as I sat down at the sushi bar I saw signs of what this meal might be - uni sitting in the glass case was half liquified, and dull in color.  But I chose to ignore the red flags - I was hopeful that its namesake hot, small plates, if not its sushi, will be where the place would excel.  I wanted this to work.

The sting ray karaage came - and some of the pieces turned out great, with a fragrant, crisp shell yielding to soft, sweet fish underneath. But other pieces were tough and spiney as you would expect from a regular fish fin.  And overall the dish would have been much better served at much hotter temperature.  I really wanted something to dip the pieces in as well - but the only thing on the plate was lemon - story of my life..I mean, the night, I guess! - so I ended up improvising (perhaps brutishly) by dipping it in soy sauce with wasabi, which didn't end up being half bad.

Izakayas are Japanese gastropubs: gourmet bar-snack items are intended as small bites to accompany beer, sake or soju.  I wasn't drinking tonight, but was excited about the robata grill, as well as skewers listed at around $3-$4 a pair.   And of course went straight for the offal!  Starting with Cow Tongue ($4).  If you sit at the bar, you can look into the open kitchen and watch the chefs cook your meats on the robata.  But unlike the now shuttered Gonpachi, this isn't high-end izakaya, and the chefs do not meticulously fawn over individual skewers and hand-fan them to perfection. So the tongue wasn't the best I've ever had, but it's also not bad either, you get two skewers for $4, it's fairly well seasoned, juicy and tender with that unmistakable texture that is simultaneously chewy and slightly crunchy.  Everything's relative, right?  So I would say this was the best of the skewers I had this meal.

Next up: Chicken heart ($3 for 2 skewers) and Duck ($4 for 2 skewers).  Again these were 'good enough' - but didn't make me forget how to breathe. They won't keep me up at night, yearning for the next encounter.  It tasted like they used the same sweet sauce on both - so they ended up tasting about the same, with obviously different textures.  I started 'making the best of it' again, appreciating that we can get interesting pieces of offal in the Valley at all. 

And for the token veggie: under the Chef's Special section: Maitake Mushroom Flower ($7) - I love mushrooms, but have not seen maitake served as its own dish at a Japanese restaurant before.  Intrigued by the description - "sweet maitake mushroom lightly marinated in Archie's secret sauce and lightly seared" - I had already formed a visual of breath-taking presentation and earthy, meaty flavors in my mind - but what arrived fell a little flat, so to speak. I was hoping for more of a 'floral' inspired arrangement that made use of the unique structure of the mushroom (also known as hen of the woods).  And was expecting delicately crisped edges from the sear, to lend a smokey char to bring out the earthy flavors of the mushroom all the more.  But what came out was a soft - pile - that wasn't at all structured with no evidence of searing.

The last item caught my eye due to price rather than preparation - Lobster Tail was listed for 'just' $10.  I knew it wouldn't be giant - but didn't expect it to literally be a bite and a half, either.  While its saving grace was that it wasn't overcooked - the meat itself didn't have much flavor.  Definitely not a fine dining caliber meat or execution.  And the super dry, pallid and old looking shell didn't make it any more appetizing. Definitely not at all worth the price and not something I would order again.

It's too bad about Izakaya M, because they have all the right (exciting) types of ingredients for success - if only they could just 'apply themselves' to try to execute at a higher level, improving quality all around, they could be full house every night (at least with local foodies!)

But all in all, a lackluster night of 'replacements' that didn't satisfy like the real objects of my desire would have.  Instead of trying to 'fix' things and finding other ways to fill the voids, it would have been better for me to just stay the course and keep my eyes on the prize - even if it meant no instant gratification.

In the end, substitutes won't make up for the real thing - and you end up just feeling more empty than before - worse, because you've wasted your time and energy on things that don't really meet your needs. I wouldn't be myself if I didn't always look for a solution - but maybe sometimes I can just be a little more strategic - because sometimes, maybe the solution is to keep seeking the Right Thing and not to settle for the Next Best Thing.  So, no more substitutions.

In the meantime - I am still glad to have found an option - in case I ever have an 'emergency' craving for offal and can't get out of the Valley - for a place to get my fill.  As long as I go knowing what I'm getting out of it, right?

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 4 bites
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 5 bites
Ambience - 4 stars
Service - 5 stars
Overall experience - 4.5 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 70%

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Izakaya M
13573 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, CA 91423
Ph: 818.981.0078

Parking: Meters free after 8pm (but of course, double check signs and meter before parking)

Website: izakayam.com
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Kiwami - Sushi Lunchspot in Studio City

Four years at my job in the Valley and I only discovered fellow sushi loving co-workers in the last few weeks - story of my life.

And there are surprising a large number of good sushi restaurants on Ventura Blvd too, which I will miss.  So, as one of my last weekday lunches in Studio City (before moving on to a new job I am super excited about in West LA, which will of course have its own stellar lunchspots) - "Gaston" and I decided to check out Kiwami in Studio City.

It's owned by and co-branded Katsu-ya, and the staff even wear hats etc. emblazoned with the Katsuya logo - but for some reason they don't accept the SBE loyalty card.  In any case, a chic, modern, clean space that still feels intimate, not pretentious, and one that fits in the Ventura Blvd neighborhood.

I was excited to see some lunch specials that aren't exorbitant in price - and went with the $17 Sashimi lunch - chef's choice of the freshest fish of the day.

First up was a nice salad and miso soup.

Then the Sashimi plate - the fish came beautifully plated and was just enough to fill up on.  A nice selection including salmon, ahi tuna and octopus.  Everything tasted fresh and delicious.

Gaston got some soft shell crab rolls wrapped in rice paper which looked delicious - and we loved that each roll was topped by a piece of fried garlic for contrasting crunch and bold burst of flavor.

At the end of the meal we also got some free sliced oranges for dessert.

All in all, not a bad deal for the lovely environment and mid-day getaway.  And a good more upscale spot for lunches with the VIPs in your life but at a not so exorbitant price if you're not on an expense account.  They have a pretty large menu of lunch specials ranging from $12-$20, bento, miso cod, hamachi kama, tonkatsu, tempura and teriyaki as well as sushi rolls and sashimi.  Service was a little slow even at the bar, but it's to be expected as the place gets pretty crowded at lunch.

Will have to go back soon for weekend lunch or dinner!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% ___________________________________________________________

Kiwami
11920 Ventura Blvd Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 818-763-3910

Parking: Valet (complimentary at lunch) or meter parking on Ventura

Website: katsu-yagroup.com/kiwami.html
OpenTable: Look for reservations

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dineLA 2012: Ombra Ristorante

After discovering this gem of a lunchspot in Studio City last dineLA (well, we ended up ordering off the regular menu that first time, but dineLA was the reason we'd gone there!), we'd been back to Ombra numerous times - and after looking at their dineLA menu for 2012, just had to go in for another fix.  Especially for the $22 lunch deal (savings estimated at $17)!

I started with the Vitello Tonnato Sliced Veal / tuna sauce / pickled onions.  Beautiful slices of young cow (eloquently described, I know) - with texture somewhere between chicken and turkey, and a mild taste that I would say would be a cross between chicken and beef, are punctuated by shreds of sour and crunchy, vibrantly pink pickled onions, and capers, and counterbalanced by giant dollop of creamy tuna sauce, a completely unexpected combination that works surprisingly well together.  The sour flavors were a perfect way to whet the appetite at the start of the meal - I ate every last bit and wanted to lick my plate.

My friend 'Wise' chose as her starter, Zuppa di Baccala Stewed salt cod / gaeta olives / potatoes / light tomato broth. This seemed to be sort of a more exotic take on minestrone.  I liked the taste of the salt cod in the tomato-based soup-stew, but in texture it was a bit muscular / tough. 

Fellow luncher 'Wonder' went for the Lenticchie e Burrata Brown Lentil Salad / Quinoa / Burrata. I had a taste and wanted more variety of flavors, colors and textures in this one.  Lentils and quinoa don't really excite me on their own, so for me they needed to play sidekick to another ingredient that would be the superhero.  As it was, this felt like a side, or a work in progress - waiting for something else to come in and save the day.

As it was my last week at my old job, I guess we got too absorbed in conversation while ordering to notice that we'd all gotten the same entree, which was a shame as I'd actually wanted to try the ones with truffle / bottarga!  In any case, all three of us got Polpette di Cinghiale Wild Boar Meatballs / soft polenta.  I really wanted to love this, but while the meatballs were juicy and tasty, the polenta was much too salty and dense where I wanted it to be light, creamy and mild to let the wild boar take center stage. 

Since I knew I was starting a new job on the Westside this week, and would not have another chance to revisit Ombra for lunch during dineLA, I went back on my own another day to have the veal again as starter, and then to try the Tortelli di Patate Blu e tartufo Peruvian potato ravioli / butter / parmigiano / black truffle.  Here's where I remember why I love Ombra so much - Chef Michael Young delivers simple pasta dishes that are incredibly well executed, but with some unexpected ingredient that makes eating at Ombra a fun culinary discovery.

Instead of the usual meat or seafood, Chef Young filled these ravioli with Peruvian potato, which offered a beautiful bloom of purple wrapped inside each freshmade dough wrapper.  Served at just the right heat to maximize the aromas of the simple yet delicious butter and parmigiano on top, raised to another level of food-euphoria with slices of fragrant black truffle.

For dessert, all three of us went for the Budino di Pan D'oro "Pan D'oro" Bread pudding / salted caramel sauce.  A rustic preparation of a classic dessert, but one of the best I've ever tasted - soft, fluffy yet substantial, served at perfect temperature, skillfully controlled sweetness offset by bursts of salt.  I can still taste it in my mind a week later.

On my return visit, I reluctantly dragged myself away from the bread pudding (since it was going to be added to regular menu) to give the Strudel di Mela e papaveri Apple and poppy seed strudel a try.   I enjoyed the slices of apple that tasted poached, and loved that instead of the usual cinnamon, Chef Young used poppy seed for flavor.  My only note on this was that the dough could have been more buttery, flakey and less tough to cut through.  Loved the light, airy whipped cream on the side as well.

Chef Young actually made his rounds in the dining room on my second dineLA visit, to chat with fellow diners, and perhaps it was seeing my eyes light and blow up to an unnatural size every time another dish arrived - but Chef Young was kind enough to send out a complimentary plate of a dessert from their regular menu: Bonet Piemontese ($7 on regular menu) which I absolutely fell in love with.  The menu description says "typical Piemonte chocolate dessert / amaretti cookies".  I have never been to Italy and have no idea what a 'typical' Piemonte chocolate dessert is like, but to me this was anything but ordinary.  In consistency, it was somewhere between jello and mousse. In flavor, it was sort of like Nutella with amaretto - chocolatey hazelnutty almond scented deliciousness.  Need to go back soon, even if just for this dessert alone.

So, my picks out of the dineLA items tasted?  Sliced veal, Peruvian potato ravioli with black truffle, and bread pudding, hands down.
And with the Amex foursquare sync/check-in, I got an extra $5 statement credit which renders my total lunch bill at $22-$5= $17!!!!  For a 3-course meal that involved truffle!!! In an elegant space with awesome service!  Plus I got hotel points by using a credit card associated with a hotel loyalty program, and 100 points for making my reservation with OpenTable.

For those who work in the Valley within driving distance - you've got 4 more days to go for dineLA - don't miss out on this one!

[For more of my dineLA picks and deal breakdowns, see my post here.]

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Ombra Ristorante
3737 Cahuenga Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 818.985.7337

Parking: Street parking on Ventura Blvd in front of restaurant (note meters have 1 hour limit)
Website: ombrala.com
OpenTable: Look for reservations
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Happy National Cheese Day!

What can I say about a day dedicated to one of the best foods ever invented? Genius. It should not just be a national day, it should be declared a religious holiday. Where we engage in a decadent communion with as much of the stuff as possible.

Especially cheese with truffle in it. Absolutely transcendent. Here is the holy trinity of truffle cheeses, in my humble opinion:

Sottocenere: I die every time I eat this. An Italian semi-soft cow's milk cheese, aged in a beautiful, grey, edible vegetable ash rind made with nutmeg, coriander, cinnamon, licorice, cloves, and fennel.

The cheese inside has a beautifully restrained sweetness tempered by very slight saltiness, and in texture is smooth, silky and studded throughout with pieces of black truffle that infuses the entire thing with its intoxicating fragrance.

A super indulgent and my all time favorite truffle cheese. I don't actually like to eat the rind, it's dry and um...ashy (duh!) and more for visual effect, but if pieces of it land on the cheese when you slice it, it does lend a great salty spice to the cheese.

Moliterno al Tartufo: Another Italian beauty - made with sheep's milk. This one's firm in texture and the truffle is woven in gorgeous veins through the cheese.

How do they get the truffles into the vein-like formation? Truffle, don't forget is a fungus, and cheesemakers actually inject a paste of it into pecorino cheese wheels that have already undergone some aging. Then the truffle is allowed to 'grow' and find its way through the cheese, forming the lovely veins.
The cheese is then aged for about another five months, rubbed with vinegar and olive oil which combine with the flavors of the truffle to spread throughout the cheese.
Besides the amazing truffle flavors, the rest of the cheese is quite a bit saltier and nuttier than Sottocenere, and much more crumbly. If there were Oscars for cheese, this one would definitely win for Best Drama.

Last but not least is Il Boschetto al Tartufo: You guessed it, another Italian one. This is a semi-soft mix of cow's and sheep's milk cheese, combined with BOTH black and white truffle, and aged for a few months.

It's a perfect union: the cheese is mild, a good balance of subtle savory, sweet and slightly tangy, with specks of truffle that taste earthy and garlicky. It's more chewy than the other two. My favorite by far is still Sottocenere, but this has an intriguing flavor profile.

I eat all of these by themselves as I think they are perfect on their own - but The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills recommends besides eating by itself, also trying to put them in omelettes or grilled cheese.

(Thanks to the awesome guys at The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills for introducing me to the Moliterno and Boschetto on my last visit! And patientlly explaining each one to me!)

Alleluia per Formaggio!

*Sorry for the bad photos - got these with my phone on the fly! Will go back and some point and shoot better ones!
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Two of my favorite cheese stores in LA:
The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills
419 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Ph: 310.278.2855

Website: cheesestorebh.com
Twitter: @cheesestorebh

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Artisan Cheese Gallery
12023 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 818.505.0207

Website: artisancheesegallery.com
Twitter: @ArtisanCheese

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Take a Bao - Fun Lunch Spot in Studio City

It would be so easy to dismiss this place, with its gimmicky name and amusing attempt at street cred: "bao buns made especially for us in the san gabriel valley (i.e. the real deal)".   But if you take it for what it is, a playful spin on a chinese staple - borrowing from a variety of asian cuisines, served with a quick dining concept - you could see it as a place that offers Valley workers a fun option for their hour lunch break.


Take a Bao started out as a counter at the Westfield Century City mall food court.  The freestanding offshoot made its debut in Studio City last month with a menu offering different savory fillings for their steamed buns, as well as noodles, rice bowls and dessert bao and cocktail service at the bar. 

It's a modern, sleek space that is pretty tastefully done, and confident in its identity.  It doesn't try to put on any airs or aspire to be 'scenestery' - it just is what it is.  You order at the counter, get a number marker, seat yourself and wait for your food to arrive. Or sit at the bar for 'full service'.

On a weekday lunch break, 'Designer Cyclist', 'Olesta Macheo' and I parked ourselves at the bar and with great effort dragged our eyes away from the cocktail list, placating ourselves with Izze soda instead.  Bao was the reason for our visit, though a few of the dishes sounded interesting for another time (Roasted Market Fish in Banana Leaf with coconut kaffir broth, broken rice, wok-charred snap peas...eggplant, bok choy, finger chilis, thai basil, anyone?)

We decided on Thai Peanut Chicken Bao ($4.50) grilled chicken, thai peanut sauce, cucumber, cilantro, scallions, crushed peanuts Pulled Pork Bao ($4.50) hoisin braised bbq pork, pickled red onion, cucumbers and Duck Confit Bao ($6) maple leaf farms duck leg, grilled scallions, plum hoisin sauce.

Again, authenticity is not the intention.  The flavor of the dough did remind me of the bao normally used with peking duck - but it was rolled thinner and longer, so it in effect was more like an inflated tortilla or wrap versus the thick, pillowy bao I know and love.  Though different, it was still fluffy and tasty even if not completely true to the original. (Take a Bao also offers a wheat option for their buns, which I didn't like as much as white - probably as it was grainy and made me think 'healthy' which I subconsciously associate with 'not delicious'.)  So, traditionalists may bulk, but we thought the bao were fun interpretations.

Personally I liked the Duck Confit Bao best, maybe because it's hard to beat the classic duck+hoisin sauce combination served with bao. 

That combination to me represents the ultimate umami: gamey, savory meat with sweet, slightly tangy sauce and subtly sweet bread.  Take a Bao does an admirable job - you're not going to get good peking duck at that price, but the meat which made me think 'pulled duck' was decent. 

I did also enjoy bites of the Thai Peanut Chicken and Pulled Pork baos - textures were balanced: tender meat and soft bao were countered by crunchy peanuts and/or cucumbers, alfalfa sprouts, then enhanced by smooth and richly flavored sauce.

Portions are fairly small though, so expect at least 2 bao per person.

Though the focus was on bao, I also wanted to try the  Lemongrass Caramel Chicken Wings ($6) tossed with sweet and spicy sauce - like an asian take on buffalo wings.  We got a plate to share.

The sauce was the consistency of sticky toffee, and as a finger food this dish is decidedly not conducive to working lunches (maybe those who have more poise than me could manage, but for those like me, I would recommend not wearing clothes you love and bringing lots of moist towelettes). 

Other than that we loved the bold flavors and crunchy deep fried skin on these wings.  There was also enough for three people to fill up on, so not a bad deal for $6! (a 5-piecer from KFC would probably be the same price...and these are so much better)

All told, we got in and out of Take a Bao in less than an hour and had a fun and tasty lunch for not that much more than what we would have spent on a fast food place / less exciting casual restaurant.  So, thank you for playing, quick service spots - but I'll Take a Bao over Chipotle any day.  Welcome to Studio City, Take a Bao - I liked your first act and hope the show goes on.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5.5 bites
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 5 bites
Ambience - 5 stars
Service - 5.5 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 90%

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Take a Bao
11838 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 818.691.7223

Website: takeabao.com
Twitter: twitter.com/takeabao_la
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Asanebo - Michelin-Starred Sushi in Studio City

I recently rewatched Jiro Dreams of Sushi thanks to a free screening at AFI Fest, and predictably it has filled my mind with nothing but sushi since. I must be sado-masochistic to torture myself with reliving the visual feast of food at a quality and price I can't have.  I couldn't just hop on the next flight to Japan to taste the artistry at Sukiyabashi Jiro (restaurant featured in the movie), and in LA the sushi master lauded as best in the city/state and maybe even country - two Michelin-starred Urasawa - is nearly as inaccessible to foodies on a budget, with prices starting at $350 per person.  But I'm a dreamer, and it was uplifting to even have feasted just my eyes.

Thinking about Michelin-starred sushi though did trigger lovely memories of my last major splurge - I did have amazing meals at the one-Michelin starred Asanebo in Studio City.  I had somehow never gotten around to doing a post about them - and now seems like a good time to relive the last meal there by writing about it.

Michelin stars are hard to come by in LA, period, and no one really expected one to be awarded to a spot in the Valley, no less.  But Asanebo was amazing, and the best Japanese fine dining experience I've had in the city so far within my price range (barely within my budget - and with the previously stated disclaimer that I haven't been able to afford meals at the super high end places like Urasawa or Nobu so can't speak to how they are).

What I love about Asanebo: incredible quality, and creativity, without cheesy gimmicks or pretentiousness.  A tiny venue with just a handful of tables and counter seating, located in an unassuming strip mall on Ventura Blvd., Asanebo radiates the cozy vibe of a neighborhood gem - while serving up world class cuisine.

My first encounter with Asanebo was generously 'sponsored' by an ex's parents, who loved that I had the same taste as them  (he didn't eat most seafood, much less raw - hm, perhaps that should have raised red flags much earlier).  The feeding frenzy was a blur but I remembered spectacular uni dishes, and scallop sashimi rolled in grey smoked sea salt (which I'd never seen done before).  So last December, when my brother and his wife were in town, I had taken her (a fellow sushi lover) to Asanebo as her last meal before returning to Montreal.  I got off work late and it was nearly closing time, so we took the quick and 'easy' route of omakase, which excited us anyway as it meant some of the best and freshest the chefs have to offer, plus I like to be surprised when it comes to food. 

Our choice was simple: Omakase A ($75-$100, no sushi), B ($100-$125),  or C ($125+).  We went with B as it was only $25 more and included sushi, and we didn't have trust funds to fuel the open-ended C.

So it's been a while, and the meal went too fast to take extensive notes, so hoping this is not completely inaccurate (let me know if you see something that needs to be corrected!)

First dish: Housemade tofu with sea urchin with bonito sauce, fresh seaweed and fresh wasabi the tofu was a little too dense for me, but you can really taste the difference in fresh made vs packaged tofu - flavors are richer and cleaner, the texture much smoother.  Same with the fresh seaweed and wasabi.  Top this with incredibly fresh tongues of uni and we were off to a fantastic start.

Next up was Grilled Golden Eye Snapper (so I have had it before!) with Japanese Spring Vegetables, Shimeji Mushrooms, Tofu Curd and Bonito Flakes - loved this dish for the salty char on the freshest piece of fish, balanced by earthiness of mushrooms and veggies, elevated by bonito flakes and tofu curd for textural contrast.

Then came an unexpected meat dish - Seared Kobe Beef - the lush texture was amazing and it was served as beef sashimi (with a dab of wasabi on the side!).  The bite-sized pieces were perfectly seared for crisp, salty edges yielding to a rare to medium-rare center so tender it almost made us cry.  I still remember the taste of this one almost a year later.

Hamachi (yellowtail) was next, with crispy shreds of shallot on top, sitting in a lake of dashi (broth).  A rustic dish that was lovely in its simplicity and beautiful in the careful balance of textures and flavors.

Halibut with Black Truffle was a creative combination that of course had me salivating on sight.  I didn't think I had ever seen truffle used with sashimi before, but the earth+sea combo of lightly crunchy truffle with thinly sliced, tender fish - though not mind-blowing - worked nicely together.  On the side was a marinated cherry tomato for some acidity to cut through the rich flavors and act as palate cleanser.

This was followed by a veggie dish - Stewed Daikon (radish) with Black Soybeans in dashi (broth) served warm. 

The daikon was stewed carefully so that it was almost translucent, and so tender it fell away with a light swipe of the spoon, but yet retained its structure, holding back just before the brink of mush.  The consistency reminded me of Chinese winter melon (冬瓜) when it's been stewed and made into soup. The mild flavors of the daikon were enhanced by the hearty, fragrant black soybean on top.

Next up was a Alaskan King Crab Leg, lightly grilled so that there is a lovely saltiness that carries over from the shell before you reach the sweet meat inside. Not the most incredible crab leg I've ever had, but a nice addition to the meal.

Our second to last dish was Miso Soup - we were surprised to see it came with a lobster head, the first time we'd seen that used with miso soup.  The soup tasted made from scratch, and hit us to our core on that cold winter night.  The hearty lobster head may be unsettling for diners who don't like to meet their food face-to-face (my brother's wife didn't love that it was 'staring' at her) but I felt it was a nice and unusual touch and thought I could taste tomalley flavors infused into the soup



Where a meal would traditionally end with some sort of sweet dish, Asanebo ends theirs with a small plate of nigiri sushi - Toro, Uni and Hamachi.  I really loved this plate as the fish  tasted like it was plucked from the ocean minutes ago, and were great last bites to leave with and remember Asanebo by.

All in all, a lovely time at Asanebo - where most sushi joints would offer all fish/seafood rolls in their omakase, Asanebo mixes it up with small plates and even kobe beef, and it all works together.  I loved the ambiance of thoughtful and cozy decor, and warm, friendly service (they treat everyone like they're an old friend).  I know I won't likely be able to repeat the experience anytime soon, but...sort of like how NFL stars, after winning the Superbowl, would sometimes give their by now famously familiar answer when asked what they're gonna do now - if I ever had another occasion to celebrate, at this point, if I was paying my first thought would very well be "I'm going to Asanebo!"

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6.5 bites
Presentation - 6.5 bites
Originality - 6.5 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6.5 stars
Overall experience - 6.5 bites
Price - $$$$ (4 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%
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Asanebo
11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604
Ph: 818.760.3348
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Ombra - Neighborhood Gem, Without a Shadow of Doubt

OMG fresh shaved truffles over handmade pasta in Studio City!!!!!!!!!!

I struggled to find a more eloquent opening for this post - but couldn't find another way that would better express my first taste of the 2-month-old Ombra Ristorante on Cahuenga. I nearly died today from excitement.

Fellow foodie "Queen Bee" and I had been looking for a short culinary getaway from work, and I stumbled upon Ombra entirely by accident while looking for dineLA deals within short driving distance of our offices.  The menu read creative Italian: calamari with Romesco sauce, Risotto Porcini with blueberries, and the chocolate cake with burrata cheese - I was intrigued and amazed I had missed this while filtering through all the dineLA menus- we had to go for it.

Ombra is located at the site of the former Bollywood Indian Restaurant, but you would never know from the look of the place - it has been completely transformed into a chic, minimalist but cozy space with espresso themed decor and sleek, modern chandeliers. 

We knew we were off to a good start when, instead of the standard bread basket with oil & vinegar or olive tapenade, we were presented with a plate of foccacia and caponata (eggplant relish).

Poised with our dineLA picks, we were just listening to specials out of politeness when we were completely derailed (me by a single word, "truffle"!!!) and knew we were meant to be there that day. 

Guess which one I went with?  Forget the porcini, I went whole hog for the Umbricelli with fennel sausage and black truffle ($29).  Which came with tableside service from chef/owner Michael Young (whose credentials include Valentino and Drago Santa Monica) - he proceeded to shave paper-thin slices of gorgeousness over my fresh made pasta.

[Is $29 a lot to spend on weekday lunch?  Yes and No.  Yes if you are on a budget, but No considering what you get for it - and think about the fact that fresh shaved truffle is involved, and for just $5 more than Scarpetta's crazy expensive spaghetti with nothing but tomato sauce and basil!]

Did I mention I almost died of excitement?!!!  Ever since 8 1/2 Taverna shuttered, I despaired that I would ever find fresh shaved truffle in my neck of the Valley for lunch ever again.

And here we were - all the stress of the week blown away by each beautiful round of truffle as it fluttered down into my bowl.

Queen Bee loved her Cavatelli - homemade Pugliese pasta with Washington dungeness crab, spring onions and arugula ($14) - I had a bite of this and it was amazing, pillowy twists of pasta with fresh, sweet clusters of crab cutting through the market fresh tomato sauce, with spring onion and arugula providing visual and herbal accents in pops of green.

Though we were completely full at this point, we could not resist the dessert menu, and at our server's recommendation, went for the Salame di Cioccolato "chocolate salami" with saffron zabaglione ($7).  This was like slabs of chocolate ganache with candied fruit and nuts - with a slightly savory tasting saffron sauce - the perfect finish to our meal.

All in all, a fantastic find!!! 'Ombra' literally means 'shadow', referring to both a glass of wine, and the Venetian culture of hardworking gondoliers and merchants, who step into the shadow of buildings from time to time to take a break and drink a glass. Definitely a fitting theme for Queen Bee and I in terms of 'break time' - we left thoroughly recharged and ready to face whatever stress was sure to come our way in the remaining hours between us and the weekend.

Before we left, our server reminded us that the Risotto Porcini on the dineLA menu is delicious and that we should come back to try it - I can't wait to do just that!  Based on regular menu pricing for calamari ($12)+average price of pasta ($13)+any dessert ($7), estimated savings for the dineLA deal would be around $10!

Beyond dineLA, they also have quail, white corn polenta, and gelato flavors like pistachio rosewater on the menu, and a "Notte Slow" (Slow Night) Monday prix fixe dinner, 3-courses for $35 plus $12 carafes of wine.  Love that they mean for this to be a no-fuss spot for great Italian.  I definitely anticipate going back to this little-local-'bistro'-that-could soon, as many times as I can afford, asap!!!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Ombra 
3737 Cahuenga Blvd., Studio City, CA 91604 
Ph: 818.985.7337

Website: ombrala.com
OpenTable: Look for reservations
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Raphael - Chef Adam Horton Brings Artistry to Studio City

How many kids from 5th grade are you still friends with? Or even remember the full names of?  Life-long bonds are rare to come by, and food loving residents of Studio City / the SFV are particularly appreciative of the friendship of Alon Raphael (owner of high-end family-owned namesake restaurant Raphael) with Chef Adam Horton (Saddle Peak Lodge, Test Kitchen), which dates back to Carpenter Elementary school, and which this year led to the talented chef's arrival to elevate not only the revamped eatery but the Valley fine dining scene.  Gourmands both local and outside the SFV find themselves literally and immediately moved by the pair - straight to the chic, recently renovated space on Ventura Boulevard. 

After a particularly grueling work week,, "Director" and I decided to head to Raphael for culinary therapy.  We were instantly charmed by the exterior wall, formed by a 'living' fixture of vertical burlap-sack-like pockets housing succulent plants. And our eyes only continued to widen once we were led through the beautiful gold / chocolate marble-floored interiors of the serenely sophisticated dining room, and given the night's menu.  Since it was a first visit for us both, we decided to go with lots of starters so we can sample more dishes. Then it was our server's turn to have his eyes widen to see two 'smallish' Asian women order so many plates - we found it amusing and endearing when he, concerned for our safety, offered to pace the dishes for us (presumably to avoid our spontaneous combustion all over the new furniture?)

First up was the Crispy pork belly “Panzanella” ($12) with house made French sausage, brioche, nước chấm, capsicum, herbs and pickles.  This was essentially a great, decontructed Vietnamese banh mi sandwich - with tender pork belly that had a carefully balanced fat to meat ratio, and farm fresh, intoxicatingly fragrant herbs.  The brioche could have had a lighter, fresher taste but we enjoyed the beautifully plated dish overall.

Next up: Tuna Tartare ($13) with green curry “glass”, green papaya, coconut, kaffir lime, crispy taro, lemon grass, basil, cilantro.  The name of the dish may be deceptively simple, but we knew from the inspired list of ingredients right below, that this was going to be anything but.

This dish turned out to be probably the most inspired of the ones we had that night - tuna tartare reimagined with a vibrant, skillful mix of textures, colors and flavors celebrating the splendor of land and sea. Fatty chunks of raw bluefin tuna are counterbalanced by crunchy crystallized shards of green curry and light, crispy savory taro chips, which are in turn balanced by the overflowing greenery of fragrant herbs crowned by edible flowers.  Kaffir lime adds clean citrus to cut through the sweet / savory flavors, while green papaya bridges the texture of the fish to other ingredients on the plate.  Add to that orange dots of a sauce made with sriracha for a hint of heat on the side, and you've got a creative take on an otherwise ubiquitous dish that seems to evoke the ideal and vital beauty of nature itself.

Steak Tartare ($15) hand-cut filet mignon, house-cured dill pickles, capers, with toasted brioche.  I loved the smooth texture and rich flavors of the beef, but thought the mound was a bit overdressed with all the different toppings.  I would have liked more room for the quality and natural flavors and textures of the beef itself to shine through.

We could never find the will to turn down Diver Scallops ($15) - and Raphael serves theirs in a less formal style than the other dishes- on a bed of English pea, with black garlic sauce and uni reduction. The scallops were supple and subtly sweet, and absolutely lovely. Crunchy peas and soft brothy greens served as a nice balance to the scallops.  However, as a big uni fan, it was a bit disappointing to find the uni was only in the reduction (when it is actual uni pieces - with plump texture combined with unique, briny taste that I love and had expected) .

Our last savory dish was Mussels with Spanish chorizo ($15).  Loved the clean saffron broth infused with meaty flavor.  Sorry no pictures for this one, as it was getting dark by the time we got to this dish in our 5 hour dinner!

Though we did not have any mains with this meal, I have definitely made a note to come back for the 48 hour steak with bacon onion jam.

We barely had enough room for dessert, but were lured by the descriptions and decided to go first with the Broken Blueberry ($9)- a visual feast and sculptural feat made of panna cotta with beet ribbon (that looks like a translucent, gravity defying fruit rollup for grownups, but brittle) and berries.  Will have to come back during daylight hours to get pics of this one!

Followed by Banana Bread Pudding ($9) - with housemade peanut butter ice cream, peanut brittle and tempura bananas that tasted like perfectly ripened bananas fried in churro batter. I thought the tempura bananas were divine and actually preferred this to the bread pudding, which I found a bit too dense and soggy.

 On top of great food, amazing ambiance and impeccable service, we were also happy to have been able to knock off $50 from the bill thanks to my OpenTable Spotlight deal!  Though the menu is a bit on the pricey side, at least for our budgets, and not a place for regular indulgence - we're thrilled to have this fine dining option in the valley! 

All in all, a great and masterful addition to the neighborhood.  I have a feeling with Exec Chef Adam Horton at the helm, Raphael's bond with the community of SFV and Greater LA will be one that stands the test of time.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6.5 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$$ (4 bite marks mains)
Probability of return visit - 90%

[To find more deals like the one used here, check out my Get More Bites Outta Your Budget page, and follow me on Twitter for up to the minute finds!]

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Raphael
11616 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, CA 91602
Ph: 818.505.3337

Parking: Valet for $5 or meter parking on Ventura Blvd (hard to find at dinner time)
Website: raphaelonventura.com
Look for reservations: Opentable.com
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