1MB Travels: New Orleans: Commander's Palace

Funny thing, how the passing of time is relative - mere seconds can feel like a lifetime to an Olympic diver, especially as they wait with bated breath to see the results that are the culmination of years of their lives spent in training; years can feel like mere moments to a parent of a grown child they will see as their baby forever (so I hear :P).

But on a more everyday and personal level...It's been just over a year since I started my new gig, and it feels simultaneously like it was yesterday, and a lifetime ago. It feels like a blur, for the flurry of new experiences I've been lucky enough to have, especially being able to see parts of the states I never would have otherwise had occasion or funds to visit. But also like a lifetime, for the things I've learned about this business, and myself, within this year.

Two of these trips brought me to the Big Easy, and I managed to squeeze in a few tastes of soulful southern food and hospitality - my favorite of these experiences was at Commander's Palace, winner of multiple James Beard awards including Best Chef: southern 2012. So good, in fact, that I found myself there twice: for lunch and brunch. Below are the highlights from each.

Lunch:

Commander's Palace is located in the Garden District, a slow paced neighborhood that lives up to its name. The famed Bourbon Street is not my scene for many reasons - so it was good to get to see a more serene, genteel side of NOLA, when I ventured out of the French Quarter to lunch here.

There is a more formal dining room with country-style decor, or you could choose to sit on the garden patio out back. For lunch, I stayed in the dining room - but definitely choose the patio for brunch as they have live jazz on weekends!

The menu was one of those that could cause serious whiplash for adventurous foodies: my eyes roamed all over the page of delicious sounding dishes, willing my stomach to be tested beyond all human limits to accommodate a taste of each.

With sympathetic looks and some help from my lovely server, I finally came up with a short list.

Even the amuse bouche was exciting: Boudin Blanc Rillette Croquette with Jack Daniels Relish.

Then, the truly foodgasm inducing Oysters & Absinthe in Pastry 'Dome', with Gulf oysters poached in cream, bacon, artichoke, tarragon and yes that previously illegal alcohol that was a favorite of artists, poets, authors, and rebels, absinthe. It essentially resembled in texture like a light chowder, but the layers of revelatory flavors were like nothing I had ever tasted.

The puff pastry 'dome' is a technique I'd seen before, which keeps the soup hot, while providing flaky, buttery accompaniment. Perfection in a bowl. I had to have this again on my second visit too (in fact, it's what drew me back).

The soups on offer all sounded so intriguing that I wanted to order them all: Snapping Turtle with splash of sherry, Chicken & Andouille Gumbo, and Lobster Bisque.

Luckily, my server was incredible and let me know that as an 'off menu' service they can create a soup sampler, so that I can try 3 soups in expresso sized cups. My favorite of the three was definitely the snapping turtle soup - they add the sherry tableside - it's fragrance is intoxicating on its own, but in taste it really adds a whole new dimension to the soup. I can only describe it as 'opening up' the flavors of the soup, the way adding drops of water to whiskey breaks up surface tension and allows the lovely complexities of flavor on the drink to be revealed.

Of course, I couldn't leave without trying the Crispy Alligator Grillades with cracked corn grits, Louisiana hot sauce and sweet chili gastrique! Yes, alligator meat does look a bit like chicken, but much richer in flavor. Loved this dish as well - I gotta get my grits too!

I don't know how I found room for dessert, but got the Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé which apparently they are well known for, and it did not disappoint - if I could have brought 10 of these home I would have!

On my brunch visit, it was charming to sit outside (you get to walk through the main kitchen to get there!) and hear the live jazz band.

I went for a southern classic this time with Shrimp and Grits, which was fantastically well balanced between the bold flavors of the shrimp and fiery red sauce, and the comforting mildness of the grits below.

For dessert, I got the Grand Marnier Soufflé and wished I hadn't. This was the only thing from the meal I didn't love - the alcohol was overpowering, I felt like I could get buzzed just from eating a few bites.

Both visits to Commander's Palace were unforgettable, and I look forward to more deliciousness whenever I get to go back to NOLA!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Commander's Palace
1403 Washington Ave., New Orleans, LA 70130
Ph: 504.899.8221

Website: commanderspalace.com
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Mapo Kkak Do Gee: Home Cooked Deliciousness Without the Work & Wear on Your Wallet

Every time I go to Koreatown, I realize how much I don't know about Korean food and all the amazing food within reach - beyond the all-too-familiar KBBQ.  And the best thing about it all? You can have an incredibly delicious, foodie-friendly, filling meal the same or just slightly more than you would pay at a fast food or casual dining restaurant.

So when dorkyfoodie recommended one of her fav spots in Ktown, Mapo Kkak Do Gee, for dinner a while back - I was excited to check it out.  Sometimes there is an inversely proportional relationship between quality of venue + authencity / deliciousness of cuisine here - and Mapo Kkak Do Gee is a prime example.  Located in a rundown strip mall, within a small space that barely contains a handful of tables with the only decor being large printed menus with photos of key dishes along one wall...Mapo Kkak Do Gee definitely fits in comfortably to the no frills category.

But the food is something else entirely...to start, the collection of banchan or free side dishes that always accompany any korean meal, were fantastic.  I thought I would love the place as soon as I saw muk (sp?) which you don't see everywhere (I think this is jelly cubes made of mung bean topped with spicy seasoning) - confirmed when I tasted its beautifully fresh, light and soft consistency.

  Mapo has a ton of noodles and soup stews on offer - and though I instinctively gravitated towards the seafood varieties like Pollack stew, when I heard that Spicy Beef & Leek Soup ($8.75) is an awesome choice - and I saw the delicious photo - the choice was clear.  It arrived in a black stone pot, sizzling orange and boiling over itself like some potent brew in a cauldron.  The balance of tender meat, crunchy logs of leek and glass noodles was instantly addictive.  And as dorkyfoodie recommended, stirring the free purple rice provided on the side, directly into the soup makes it even more amazing.  This is one I've come to crave and will be coming back for as the weather gets colder.

For her main, dorkyfoodie got something I'd never seen or heard of before: Noodles in Chilled White Bean Soup ($8.75) - it came with ice cubes!!  In a giant bowl of very mild flavored noodles in mild flavored soup, served cold like Korean gazpacho.  I'm not sure that I would love this on its own - it's not packed with bold flavor like most people are used to in Korean cuisine - but as a counterpoint to the heat of the Spicy Beef and Leek soup, it was a perfectly serene and soothing yin to the aggressive, riled up stew's yang.   

 

Despite the unfamiliar noodles, there's something about Mapo Kkak Do Gee that feels like home.  I wouldn't say it was the service either, at least on that first visit, though there's a very hardworking and authentic Korean lady in charge - she's not exactly the most friendly to all tables (She was lovely on my return visit, when I dined solo - Korean ladies at the restaurants I've been to in Ktown -actually seem to be amazing about that - really taking care of / mothering single female diners).  I would say it's really the food that feels very homecooked, in the best way - welcoming, comforting, soul-soothing.  No gimmicks - just really well cooked, good food.

 

And you don't even have to prep, cook or clean - a perfect weeknight meal, in and out, easy.  No pressure to dress up, pair drinks and plan courses and all that jazz. 

For those who feel compelled to splurge, there are more spendy items on the menu like the Spicy Seafood Stew ($22.55) and Braised Codfish ($22.55) - but otherwise, a very affordable, great meal that I have already, and will come back for again very soon.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 5.5 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Mapo Kkak Do Gee
3611 W 6th St., Los Angeles, CA 90020
Ph: 213.736.6668

Parking: Free in attached strip mall lot
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Seafood Village: Chiu Chow, SGV Style

Everything I know about Chiu Chow cuisine, I learned from eating at restaurants representing that regional fare, growing up in Hong Kong. So, what I know may just be the 'Hong Kong version' of chiu chow, but what I do know, I dearly miss when I am in LA: sugar vinegar double fried egg noodle pancakes, oyster omelettes, soy sauce duck parts, stir fried cow spinal cord...

So, I was excited when I read about David Chan, man who has feasted on and documented an incredible volume of meals at Chinese restaurants all over the country.  Surely, he would know where I can get a decent chiu chow meal in LA.  The answer was not what I wanted - there isn't any restaurant, even in the great SGV, that serves such specific and authentic regional Chinese dishes -  but he did have a place that is one of his favorite restaurants in the city, and it just happens to be chiu chow.  I won't be able to get the niche dishes I've been craving, but I will be able to get an excellent meal nonetheless. So it was that I embarked on a journey to Seafood Village in Monterey Park a few weeks back - and was so impressed with my experience that I plan to be back again, and again.

Located in a non-descript strip mall, in a no frills place with specials listed in Chinese only (albeit with photos) along the walls, Seafood Village struck me as very authentic (Chinese) right away.  You're definitely not going to visit for the ambience.  A glance at the menu confirmed, as David said, that the items I wanted were not going to be served there.  But they had some amazing sounding dishes with ingredients that are not seen everywhere even in the SGV.  One of these was the Sauteed Clams with 9-Level Pagoda Basil ($11.99)  - yes, this is the same kind of basil (九層塔) used in the signature lobster at Newport Tan Cang restaurant.  A little sweet, with the slightest hit of spice, often described as 'clove-like'.  Legend has it (because you should believe everything you read on the internet) that the basil got its name when a Chinese emperor was stranded by flooding in a 9-Level Pagoda, and stumbled upon the herb growing on its roof.  Basically our people seem to have to have a story for everything...it does make things more interesting that way.  Whatever the origin of its name, I love this unique tasting herb with shellfish - cuts through the briny flavors and more...robust textured creatures nicely.  The clams are perfectly steamed at Seafood Village in a clear broth with garlic and the foodgasm inducing basil.
 

For the token vegetable dish, and only because my server said the magic words "XO Sauce" and it sounded interesting with a mix of surf and turf in it, I sprang for the Stir-fried Chives with XO Sauce, Dried Shrimp and Ham ($13.99). I never really thought of chives as something you would eat as the main component of a dish - usually it's as flavoring or garnish.  But who knew, the tips of chives look like blushing baby flower buds, and the 'stalks' give off a fresh, delicious crunch when stir fried.  And were perfectly punctuated by pops of dried shrimp, ham and I think bits of squid - along with my beloved savory/spicy/sweet magic XO sauce (a Hong Kong invention usually made of dried shrimp, dried fish, dried scallop, chili peppers and garlic).  And yes, you guessed it - there's a story behind the name XO sauce too: basically Cognac XO was a popular liquor in Hong Kong that had an established brand as the ultimate in luxury, representing refined tastes and wealth - a status good that all self-respecting-consumers-with-fine-palates should aspire to experience. So when this sauce was invented, with all the expensive seafood needed to create just a small amount of sauce - it was decided that naming it XO would be a reflection of its luxurious ingredients, and give it instant appeal to status conscious Hong Kong uber-consumers.  I do love the name of this sauce, but it's really its amazing layers of flavor, that unfurl like the culinary equivalent of a fine aged brandy, just a little different every time, that get me every time.

Then came the House Special Crab ($26.15 for 3lbs, varies with market price) although that works out to less than $10 a pound when I went, it's a minimum of 3lbs per order so best if you go with other people.  I managed to inhale about a quarter of the platter and had to take the rest to go.  This crab is simply amazing - if you go to Seafood Village, don't leave without tasting this.  Chopped garlic, fried to a crisp, spring onion, peppers and salt give it instantly addictive flavor - you can scrape off the stuff and use it as topping for rice and make a delicious meal of that alone - while the meat inside is tender and softly sweet.  The crab is deep fried so you get that tasty crispy coating on the shell that had me frantically trying to scrape off with my teeth.  I'd never had this dish in chiu chow restaurants in Hong Kong - but I'm in love with it now and will definitely be coming back for more.

As typical to old school Chinese restaurants, the meal is finished off with complimentary dessert.  Seafood Village provides Red Bean Soup - this wasn't mind-blowing, but very nicely done and especially lovely because it was free.

Also wanted to take a moment to note the attentive service - the waiters are not here to chat with you, so if you're looking at it from a western perspective, you're not going to think it's great because you don't get the banter here - but with all the seafood they are very quick with replacing dirty plates with clean ones and offering napkins / towels.

All in all, a great meal and one that has turned me from skeptic to fan of SGV-style (or at least, Seafood Village style) chiu chow!  Thanks David Chan for the rec!!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6.5 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Seafood Village
684 W Garvey Ave, Monterey Park,CA 91754
Ph: 626.289.0088

Parking:  Free in attached open air lot

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