Showing posts with label Fusion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fusion. Show all posts

Monday, July 23, 2012

Chaya Downtown: Summer Beer Garden

I've always been more of a cocktail girl, than a wine or beer girl.  The only notion I ever had of "beer gardens" were formed by experiences at street festivals - they meant a sort of holding pen where twenty-somethings essentially stood around getting sloshed and conversation revolved around the last time they were standing around getting sloshed.  I never associated beer gardens with any sort of good food or great ambience - i.e. they were not for me.

But then I was invited to Chaya Downtown to check out their Summer Beer Garden - running weeknights 4pm til close - and their version, pretty much because it involves delicious bites to go with alcohol, I liked.  That, and the charming setting - in a covered patio space, between skyrises, paper lanterns casting soft glows over wood-panelled booths and tables.  With a street-food-inspired yakitori/kushiyaki station in the corner, where the fragrant sizzle of grilled-to-order meat skewers drifted to every corner of the space.  That night there was also a drizzle of rain, which outside of that protective cover, added to the charm and movie-set-like atmosphere of the place.

The concept is sort of outdoor izakaya - small bites meant for people to fill up on, so that they can drink some more.  Which is fine with me because they actually put a lot of care and thought into the food - they're not just token sponges for alcohol.  My beverage of choice was a Ginger Joy cocktail with ginger vodka, muddled cucumber, lemon juice, simple syrup, fever tree ginger beer, cucumber and ginger ($12 on regular bar menu). 
Then the small plates started rolling through. Nothing goes better with alcohol than fried food - and Chaya served up a great gourmet fried dish in their Garlic Fried Soft Shell Shrimp, Chipotle Miso ($7) - from the Beer Garden menu: whole shrimp, heads, tails and all, were perfectly seasoned and fried to a deliciously fragrant crisp - it kind of reminded me of Chinese salt & pepper fried shrimp, but more garlicky.  And loved the creative fusion dipping sauce made with chipotle and miso.
One of my favorites though was Grilled Octopus ($8) baby potatoes, wasabi pickles - this was actually from the Happy Hour menu, which is available during Beer Garden hours as well. I loved how well the unusual combination of ingredients worked together: octopus with its crisper crunch balanced by the softer bites of baby potatoes, punctuated by the heat of wasabi mayo. Parsley added an herbaceous layer of flavor.

Then of course, we couldn't go without having the Yakitori & Kushiyaki that has been whipping up our appetites all night with the smokey char that had been wafting over to our table. We got a sampler plate with pretty much every kind of skewer on the menu: Bacon Wrapped Date Skewer ($2), Shrimp Skewer ($2), Shitake Mushroom Skewer ($2), Chicken Skewer ($2), Beef Tongue Skewer ($3), Beef Skewer ($3) - my favorites were the beef tongue (so thick, juicy and rich in flavor I thought it was the kobe beef skewer at first), kobe beef and shitake mushroom (super juicy and earthy/meaty tasting).  LOVE the super affordable prices on these!

 For some token veggies, we had the staple barbecue item served with a twist: Grilled White Corn, Feta Cheese ($5) - I loved the sweet, perfectly grilled corn, but the feta cheese was a bit too rich and had some kind of spice in it that was a little overpowering for me.  But those who like heat in their food may enjoy this.

Another great fried dish was the Soy Fried Chicken "Karaage" ($6) - which we could consider a Japanese happy hour classic?


Lastly, I never expect to love veggie dishes, but the Fried Brussel Sprouts ($8) with curried salt from the regular menu was instantly addictive, with an intoxicating smokey char and mouthwatering spicy flavors.

I could eat plates of these all night.
For the sweet finish, we got to taste something from the regular dessert menu: Warm Milk Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding ($10) dulce de leche ice cream - I LOVED this, possibly the best bread pudding I've ever had.  The croissant was beautifully buttery - I could smell it before I saw it come to the table - but also incredibly light, airy and flaky, served at just the right temperature, and well balanced with the rich melted belgian milk chocolate, and the not too sweet dulce de leche ice cream.  SO good.  This dessert is a staple at all Chaya locations, but beyond all the offerings at Chaya Downtown beer garden I would also go back just for this bread pudding, in that lovely garden setting.

I should also mention, that the night we were there, a Thursday night, there was also live music that was quirky and fun - going from a modernized rock rendition of the song from that classic SNL skit where Christopher Walken has "a fever" whose "only prescription is more cowbell", to "Ring of Fire", to "Pumped Up Kicks".   There isn't a set schedule for live music but it will be offered throughout the Summer Beer Garden run.

Oh yeah, and for those who are into beer, there is a selection on the beer garden menu from Kirin to Sapporo for $4-$5 a glass, $14 a pitcher. Sake cocktails are available for $7.  Premium Japanese whiskeys like Yamazaki are also on offer. You can also of course order from their regular and Happy Hour cocktail menus.

All in all, a fantastic time with great food at happy hour pricing, in a charming space.  Especially great for those who work downtown and just want a chill place to unwind with delicious bites to go with a few rounds of drinks. Or those who just want to grab tasty, affordable small plates in a great setting with friends or on a fun casual-ish date.

(And, one of the biggest deterrents to me trekking downtown usually, is taken care of at Chaya - you can park right beneath the building, and they valet for free for 3 hours with validation from the restaurant!)

Chaya's Beer Garden runs through August 31st, Mondays to Fridays 4pm to close, in the garden patio and bar/lounge.

*Disclosure: This meal was hosted.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5.5 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 

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Chaya Downtown  

525 S Flower St, Los Angeles, CA 90071
Ph: 213.236.9577

Parking: In underground structure in building - Valet parking free with validation for first 3 hours (flat fee of $7 thereafter)

Website: thechaya.com/downtownLosAngeles
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Chaya Downtown on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

CHAYA Venice: Oyster Food Fair

Did you know that the Japanese family who owns Chaya have been restauranteurs for nearly four centuries?  They started with a 'tea house' (apparently that's what Chaya 茶屋 means in Japanese) in Japan under a large shade tree, catering to weary travelers and their horses 390 years ago.  Today, we can experience a version of that hospitality in Venice, CA in a modern setting of a neighborhood hangout that gives off the vibe that it's there to serve the community.  Of traffic-worn commuters like myself and their metal stallions.  And apparently Venice loves Chaya back - the two times I've been there, it's always been packed.

With Chef Shigefumi Tachibe at the helm for the last 22 years, and his blend of "Euro-Asian" or "Franco-Japonais" fare bringing people back week after week to an area that doesn't have many fine dining stakes in the sand - Chaya Venice admirably does not rest on success, but continually tries to put forth new menus.

There is the unusual dual menu that customers have come to expect - sushi and European dishes with Japanese influence, but there's also special menus created around a theme, a main ingredient - rotating each year.

A few months back it was the Venison Fair.  This month brings the Oyster Food Fair - and I was excited to receive an invite to a media tasting kicking off the event on February 16 (the Food Fair runs through March 3rd!)

The idea is there are many dishes created around the featured ingredient - oysters, and you can choose a la carte from the special menu.
We started with a round of Fresh Oyster on the 1/2 Shell ($14 for half dozen) - for the tasting we got both kinds of oysters: Hama Hama from Washington (the bigger ones shown on left in the photo) and Fanny Bay from British Columbia.  These were not the best oysters I've ever had (Monterey fisherman's wharf restaurants win on that one) but they went fast - there was nothing but empty shells left 60 seconds after they hit the table.

Baked Oysters Rockefeller ($19) spinach, bacon, cream, parmesan This one is a classic, well executed.  Even for someone who is really a purist with their oysters, I thought this was nicely done - I've seen so many places overdo it on the cheese so it ends up overwhelming the oyster, and/or overcooking the spinach so that it's a sloppy mess atop the oyster - but Chaya's is just right in terms of balancing all ingredients.

Baked Oysters w/ Nori Lemon Butter ($18) tamari, soy, chives.  I had to look up tamari - it's basically a soy sauce made with more soybeans than regular ones, so that it has a more complex, smooth and balanced flavor.  This was added with a deft hand as it was in perfect balance with the nori (seaweed) lemon butter - again as a purist with oysters, I normally prefer to taste nothing but pure deep ocean around the oyster, but this broth-like sauce was light and clean tasting and very enjoyable.  I did like this one more than the Rockefellers.
Angus Beef Tartare with Fried Oysters ($16) sweet potato chips.  When this dish came out, if you listened to the sounds around the table - you would just hear alternating sounds like this: "crunch", "mmm", "crunch".  The creamy, lush (and pink?) beef tartare paired and contrasted perfectly with crunchy panko-crusted deep fried oysters - and the fresh fried chips made with a Japanese sweet potato were 'favorited' by all around the table.  My only note would be to apply a slightly thinner panko crust so that the ratio of crust to oyster (as the highlighted ingredient) would be in the oyster's favor to allow a more pronounced flavor.
Oyster Citrus Cured Salmon Chowder ($20) Tokyo winter negi, yukon potato.  This one was another favorite for the night - the salmon is cooked sous vide with citrus, and has the lushest, smoothest texture and intense flavor, infused throughout the chowder.  There is also of course oysters in the soup along with a Japanese leek and chunks of potato for added texture and flavor.  Really gorgeous soup.  The portion size shown in the photo was just for the tasting, knowing we would be feasting on almost the entire menu - but the regular dinner size would be much bigger for the $20. How much bigger?  We didn't get to see so judge for yourself if you would spend $20 on soup as your entree.

Kobe Short Rib Pot Pie ($29) baked oyster zucchini champagne cream, caramelized sweet onion sauce.  Loved the description on this one, and it was a cute presentation with a bloated pastry puff topped by an oyster baked with zucchini champagne cream and cheese.  The contents of the pot pie were infused with rich flavor (interesting that the chef used a 'white' sparkling wine versus the expected red wine) with fairly generous large chunks of meat - though it was just a tad chewier than I expected for Kobe.  But overall very nicely done pot pie, and I loved the buttery flakey pastry puff.

Striped Sea Bass & Oyster Papillote ($29) celery root, shitake mushroom, tomato, black truffle vin blanc.  If there were Oscars for food, this dish would probably win for Best Drama - it arrived in a square, puffed up paper bag with rolled edges, and we all found ourselves waiting for the big reveal to see what's inside.  Our server tore into the bag to expose a delicately cooked filet of loup de mer, steamed inside the bag with a slice of lemon, celery, shitake mushroom, and tomato - and of course the pleasant 'surprise', creamy oysters.  The whole thing was then dressed with a black truffle white wine sauce that infused it with fragrant and unmistakeable truffle flavor. 

After the great meal (not sure if it was the aphrodisiac effects of oysters, but felt huge love for oysters!) we were treated to oyster-free desserts from the regular menu.  Chaya's signature dessert is their Milk Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding with Caramel Ice Cream ($9) which was delicious with its buttery, light, layered pastry a departure from the normally dense, heavy bread puddings at other restaurants. 

We also had Lemon Curd Cake ($9) - a light and refreshing finish with a cheesecake-like round topped by a cookie half shell filled with blueberries, and light, subtly tart lemon curd in between.

Oyster lovers can check out Oyster Food Fair at CHAYA Venice through March 3rd.

* Disclaimer: This meal was hosted
 ___________________________________________________________

CHAYA Venice
110 Navy St., Venice, CA 90291
Ph: 310-396-1179

Parking: Self-park in structure $4 with validation


Website: thechaya.com/venice
OpenTable: opentable.com/chaya-venice

______________________________________________________________________

Chaya Venice on Urbanspoon

 

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Komida - 12 Days of Tacos Christmas Specials! (CLOSED June 2012 :( )

Have I mentioned how much I love the creative, fine dining quality / wallet-friendly fusion tacos at Komida?

This month, Grubstreet LA reported on Komida's "12 Days of Tacos" promotion where they serve up one-day-only, one-of-a-kind, drool-inducing holiday-themed tacos from Roast Turkey with Pinot Noir and five-spice cranberry sauce, to Brioche Stuffing with Kleweno Family Farm Sausage, to Grandma's Green Bean Casserole. 

Kind of genius.  I couldn't wait to try.  And the tacos are only $4 each!!!!  Scheduling conflicts made me miss the first few days (very sad to miss the brioche stuffing taco, I love stuffing!) - but there was no way I was going to miss the Smoked Gouda Mac & Cheese with Buttered Bacon Breadcrumbs taco

I managed to make a pit stop on my lunch break yesterday.  Skeptics may wonder how holiday foods would taste in a taco, but I was a believer at first bite.  Chef Brock Kleweno steps up mac and cheese with perfectly sized little pasta elbows, premium cheese kept nice and light, slim and deliciously salty shreds of bacon and baby croutons, all swaddled in a double helping of corn tortillas.  YUM.  I wish they could serve this all year.

Komida still has a few days left of 12 Days of Tacos, with some amazing sounding combos coming up:

• Shiitake Scalloped Potato with Grafton Cheddar Crisps (12/19)
• Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer with/ grilled venison loin and ginger cherry salsa (12/20)
• 'Fruit Cake' with Figgy Pudding Sauce (12/21)
• Gingerbread Cookie with Yuzu Icing (12/22)
• Pastrami & Sauerkraut with Asian 1000 Island and Rye Seed Tortillas (12/23)

Personally I'm not so sure about dessert tacos, but given how great other tacos from Komida have been, I'd definitely be interested to try.  And looking forward to the playful reindeer venison taco!

Not into the holiday specials?  Their regular menu also rocks (Black Cod with miso sake glaze is my fav, along with included sides of wasabi guacamole and pickled shishito peppers with chips), and there are daily deals for lunch and HH too - see below.

[Deal alert from regular menu: 
Lunch specials: Mondays to Fridays 11am-2pm Choose any two tacos for $8: Short Rib, Chicken Satay, of Veggie Corn Salsa (Chips, Pickled Shishito Peppers & Soda included) // Addt'l Chicken, Beef or Veggie Tacos $3 each
Happy Hour: Mondays to Fridays 5-7pm $2 Chicken Satay Taco, $3 Short Rib Taco and 50% off beer bucket, 50% off carafe of Jamaican Agua Fresca or Lycee Sangria]

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100%
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Komida (Update: Closed June 2012 but "making a come back" hopefully soon)
Hours: Mon-Fri 11am-9pm
1738 North Orange Drive, Hollywood, CA 90028

Ph: 323.466.5124

Parking: Hollywood & Highland structure - $2 first 2 hours w/ validation from stores in the complex, $1 for each additional 15 mins.

Website: komidala.com

Twitter: @Komida_LA
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Saturday, December 3, 2011

Playa - Sublime Urban Latin Brunch on Beverly

Is there anything better than brunch on a sunny SoCal Sunday?  Even after a long weekend of unbridled holiday gorging - there's always room for brunch.  Especially one with an 'urban Latin' spin (and blue corn muffins!) that we'd read so much about, at the critically acclaimed, blogger-beloved Playa.  Chef John Sedlar was just named Esquire Magazine's Chef of the Year, and we couldn't wait to check out his original, pan-Spanish world creations. Last weekend, my friend 'Curses' and I decided to finally make it out there for brunch. 

From the moment we walked in, we were in love with the place.  The beautiful, sunlit space may not be oceanside, but definitely lives up to its stated goal of celebrating California coastal lifestyle, with sophisticated space that is still very casual and comfortable at the same time.  We loved the aesthetic with dark and light woods, and soaring ceilings adorned with large straw-like displays that did remind us - as described on Playa's site - of a cross between sea urchin and tumbleweeds.

We were there uncharacteristically (for me) early, as we had a movie screening to go to afterwards, so we had the lovely  space pretty much to ourselves.  It was so nice to just sit and soak in the serenity, after a stressful (albeit short) workweek, to have a place like Playa to retreat to and recharge before starting it all over again.
Starting off with giant cups of fragrant tea (Green/Chamomile $5 each), we were excited to get to try the much buzzed about Blue Corn Muffins ($6) with Anson Farms Organic Cornmeal, Almond Butter. 

These muffins cheerily arrived with a festive little strip of blue corn husk sticking out the top.  We thought they lived up to the hype.  Fluffy, yet substantial and subtly sweet, nicely crisp tops, served at perfect portions, warm with almond butter - these have the flavor of corn bread but texture of muffins and were heaven on a plate.

 I actually had a postcard for a complimentary plate of the muffins, that I picked up from a food event,  so that made it even better (gotta love free!) I don't normally crave muffins but would definitely come back just for these another day.
Playa of course is also known for their inventive market fresh cocktails created by mixologist Julian Cox (also at Picca, Sotto and Rivera) - so I couldn't leave without getting one - and there are great offerings designed for brunch.  I chose one that sounded more unusual: Luchadores Lady ($10) Reposado Tequila, Hibiscus Tea, Pineapple Gomme Syrup, Lime, Egg White Peychaud’s Bitters.  The drink was light refreshing, and I loved the play with egg whites that was right on theme for brunch.  

I kind of felt like a rebel drinking Tequila so early in the morning, but justified it in my mind that it's balanced with 'healthy' antioxidant-rich hibiscus tea, vitamin-C rich citrus additions, plus protein rich egg white (ha! yeah so you can really justify almost  anything if you really put your mind to it...?)  It did look and taste so fresh I thought it just must be healthy ;)

Curses had a lovely and ever reliable brunch staple, a Mimosa ($8).
Then came our mains, and our unanimous and immediate favorite was the Huevos Polenta ($11)
Lardons, Rajas, Calabacitas, Queso Cotija

I'm always on the lookout for a good polenta in the city (why can't everyone make it so that it's smooth and creamy with slightly gritty texture and NOT congealed or rubbery?!) and I think Playa's now counts among the top of the ones I've had. 

The polenta was texture-perfect, yes, creamy and light with just the right amount of grit, and the whole thing is elevated with a sprinkling of bacon, peppers, squash and crumbly, salty cheese, crowned by a perfectly poached egg.  DELISH!!!  This is another dish that will definitely be drawing me back to brunch at Playa.


Next up was the Tamal ($12) Cracked Corn Masa, Pulled Pork, Sunnyside-Up Egg
with an unexpected, fun and sort of tongue-in-cheek presentation - on a plate with article on The Simpsons food blogger episode inserted!!!

I guess all the picture-taking was a dead giveaway? ;P  Though I was trying to be subtle with my little purse-sized point and shoot (no paparazzi DSLRs for me!) 

Anyways, we enjoyed what I later learned is their new 'urban Latin' approach to plating - Playa will change out the inserts according to what was relevant, or interesting in pop culture or the news at the time. 

And how did the Tamal taste?  We loved the perfectly fried sunny-side up eggs, but the tamale was a bit too much for us (even though it was made lighter than tamales at other places), with bold flavors in the tomato or chile based sauce.  Granted, perhaps we just weren't used to tamale as a brunch food, though we wanted and were happy to try something new.  And no, our reception of the dish wasn't because it didn't involve deep fried pixie wings or walrus mustaches.

For a sweet brunch staple, we also ordered up the Panqueques ($12) Fresh Blueberries, Pedro Jimenez Compote

If this were the Oscars of brunch, I could see Panqueques going up for the Best Drama award.  Of the three plates, this one made us gasp when it arrived.  At its base was the standard looking stack  of pancakes, but then it was surrounded by ribbons of berry sauce, and topped by bananas, ice cream and a flurry of a brown, wispy structure that looks windblown. 

Our friendly and informative server, Colin, explained that this was made from molasses (and I can't remember all the details now of the process, unfortunately) - we thought was it an ingenious way to lightly and dramatically get the sweetness onto those flapjacks without dousing it, as most other places do, with a heavy slick of syrup.

And that was not all - it was such a great surprise, once we cut into the stack, to find chocolate hazelnut spread in between each layer!!!

All in all, Curses and I both enjoyed that Playa treats brunch as a labor of love - yes it's a little bit of a splurge, but not too bad and we loved that it's not about shovelling in the closest available carbs to soak up alcohol from the night before (been there, outgrown that) - it's about truly celebrating and enjoying good food, in new interpretations of classic dishes, in a lovely setting, at one of our favorite mealtimes.  Totally adding this to our list of favorite spots for brunch!  Viva Playa!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6.5 stars
Service - 6.5 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%
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Playa Rivera
7360 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036
Ph: 323.933.5300

Parking: Meters on Fuller Ave (2 hour limit - but of course double check posted signs) valet $6.50

Website: playarivera.com
Twitter: twitter.com/PlayaRivera
Look for reservations: opentable.com/playa
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Playa Rivera on Urbanspoon

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Komida - Tokyo Meets Tijuana Meets Greenwich Village by Hollywood and Highland

The lesser trafficked stretch of Orange Drive, in back of the Hollywood and Highland complex, is now one of the most dangerous spots in the city - for those with an addiction to Chef Brock Kleweno's crazy delicious Japanese tacos and wasabi guacamole.

My first introduction to the genius fusion creations was at the taco stand at the seasonal Yamashiro Farmers Market.  Yamashiro had, for me at least, for years just been an unaffordable tourist spot that held little interest beyond its much touted views of the city.  Then came the Farmers Market, with its unbridled access both to said scenery, and to the talents of Yamashiro Exec Chef Kleweno - all for the comparatively low, low price of $6 a taco (complete with 'fixin's').

There was Miso Sake Black Cod tacos, with incredibly fresh, tender, flaky fish on amazing little flour tortillas (my fav).  And the Hoisin Duck Confit taco.  And salsas with Asian-inspired flavors. It may look like street food, but it tastes like fine dining - ingredients are all top quality.  That's not all, the tacos are all served with free chips with wasabi guacamole and pickled shishito peppers.

Yamashiro's taco stand brought excitement to a staid brand, made its food accessible 'for the people', and most importantly introduced a whole new interpretation of Latin-Asian fusion street food. Arguably, what Roy Choi did for Korean-Mexican, Brock Kleweno trail-blazed for Japanese-Mexican.

I was just getting sad that the seasonal market was drawing to a close for the year, which meant losing access to those amazing tacos and guac - when the announcement came that Chef Kleweno would open a 'pop-up' in Hollywood, serving those fan favorites!!!

And this weekend I finally got to check it out!

The pop-up is currently in 'soft open' mode, Thursdays 5-9pm (mirroring former Farmers Market hours) and Saturdays 10am-2pm, but they hope to expand hours as business ramps up.  They will be officially up and running starting October 31st.

It's sort of a 'hidden gem' right now, tucked away in back of the Hollywood and Highland complex in an industrial looking space that's big on character.

There's a small lobby with walk-up cashier, covered outdoor patio complete with a little stand for a bar, and a semi-private party room near the front.  All come with 'dressing' befitting the fusion cuisine - Japanese shoji inspired roof panels, matted curtain, subtle stone buddha statue, Mexican bar table covers and vintage soda bottles, and tongue-in-cheek artwork on the menu board.  All in a sort of urban yet laid back space, with exposed brick walls that makes me think, for some reason, of some cozy neighborhood gem in Greenwich Village.  It was love at first sight - everything was done tastefully, not in a too serious way but also doesn't hit you over the head with too-obvious cultural references.

So, the food (right, that's what I came for!) - along with fan favorite tacos and salsas, a Chicken Satay taco makes an appearance on Komida menu. I was there for a quick snack, so I went straight for a fix of my favorite - the Miso Sake Black Cod Taco ($6).

Komida takes a casual approach, serving food in a cardboard tray (a la Farmers Market), which works for the casual seat-yourself outdoor dining space.  The taco - and everything else from wasabi guacamole (buttery with a kick!) to the pickled  shishito peppers (sweet and tart) with fresh tasting chips were as fantastic as I remembered, and I inhaled every last morsel in the tray.

Chef Kleweno previously mentioned plans to sell the wasabi guac 'to go', but they are not quite ready yet.  Starting in November we'll be able to squirrel tubs of the stuff away back home to scarf down shamelessly.

As for drinks: in addition to Mexican sodas (including Pepsi) beers, wines and cocktails are served at Komida - I had the Jamaican Agua Fresca ($10), a refreshing burgundy colored drink made with hibiscus syrup and champagne.

All in all, loved that there is now a place for me to get Chef Kleweno's fusion tacos, and that the space is centrally located - yet an awesome haven of calm just steps away from over-the-top Hollywood - is a bonus.

I can't wait to go back to Komida - if I had my way it would be a weekly fix ritual.

[Update 10/31: They are officially open - hours are now Monday to Fridays 11am-9pm!]

[Deal alert:  Happy Hour Mondays to Fridays 5-7pm $2 Chicken Satay Taco, $3 Short Rib Taco and $15 beer bucket (Singha x4), carafe of Jamaican Agua Fresca or carafe of Lycee Sangria]

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100%
___________________________________________________________

Komida

Hours Thu: 5pm-9pm Sat: 10am-2pm (Update 10/31: Hours are now Mon-Fri 11am-9pm)
1738 North Orange Drive, Hollywood, CA 90028

Parking: Hollywood & Highland structure - $2 first 2 hours w/ validation from stores in the complex, $1 for each additional 15 mins.

Website: facebook.com/Komida.LA
Twitter: @Komida_LA
______________________________________________________________________

Komida on Urbanspoon

Sunday, August 14, 2011

WP24 - High Altitude 'Modern Chinese' in DTLA

With the abundance of authentic, affordable Chinese cuisine within 30 minutes' drive in the San Gabriel Valley, what, you ask, would possess someone actually from Hong Kong to visit Wolfgang Puck's 'modern Chinese' spot, WP24 in DTLA?  I had been craving fine dining Chinese, had heard great things about the place from trusted sources, and when an acquaintance invited me to dinner there - I decided to give it a shot, cautiously optimistic for potentially inspiring takes on Chinese cuisine.

Towering above the steadily gentrifying hub downtown around the L.A. Live / Staples Center area - WP24 sits on the 24th floor of the Ritz Carlton hotel.  The view at night is certainly spectacular - from either the lounge or the more formal dining room.  The setting almost does remind me of high-rise fine dining in Hong Kong.

The patrons in the lounge and dining room are distinctly different - reflective of the decor of each. Whereas the lounge is chic but casual, the dining room is formal and caters to a more upscale, older crowd (mid-late 30s and up). 

As everyone else in our party wanted to try the tasting menu, we were seated in the dining room.  When ordering from tasting menus, WP24 requires that they be ordered by everyone at the table, which makes sense for the flow of the meal at the table - so we finally settled on the 6-course one.  At $140 per person this menu pained me physically - but I went with it since everyone else wanted to go 6 (2 wanted to go 10-courses, but there was no way I was going to pay $170 for Chinese food that I can get at Michelin star quality in Hong Kong). So first tip of the day if you're going to eat in the dining room is, make sure there is consensus among those at your table before going in - otherwise you might end up with a much larger bill than you anticipated.

But I kept an open and optimistic mind, and we seemed off to a good start when a series of four amuse bouche arrived (these actually initially confused us because they were so generously portioned that we had to ask our server whether these were other people's starters delivered to us by mistake).  The  “Several Tastes of Good Fortune” consisted of lobster/crab spring rolls wrapped like wine bags for a nice presentation, foie gras bao, spiced lamb fried balls and prawn toast. All were tasty, but the foie gras bao (bread bun) of course stood out the most to me, as an interesting small but significant twist on the dish that is usually served with peking duck (and indeed it came witih all the garnishes you would normally see with peking duck).  The rich, buttery lobe of foie went surprisingly well with the fluffy steamed buns.
First up after the amuse was “Hot & Sour” Soup with Sweet Prawn Wontons, Fresh Peas, Micro Basil, Fried Ginger and topped with garlic flowers.  This was WP24's interpretation of hot & sour soup, which semed more like a 'mash-up' of all the traditional Chinese soups together: starchy hot & sour + seafood soup + wonton soup + egg drop soup with corn.  It was an interesting and tasty mix, but not mind-blowingly innovative in concept or flavor.

Next was Today’s Dim Sum Plate - featuring Chive Crystal Dumpling, Dan Dan Dumpling, Tiny Dumpling, Scallop Sui Mai, and Suckling Pig with Quince-Apple Puree.  If this was the first time in my life I'd ever tried dim sum - I might have enjoyed the novelty of this plate and the bite-sized little dumplings and cheong fun (rice noodle roll).  But because I've had 'real' and really mind-blowing, exquisite dim sum in Hong Kong (and at Yank Sing in San Francisco) - this plate was a complete disappointment.  Creativity and technique were both absent from this plate. Almost all of the dumplings were standard fare, and overcooked - inside and out - with the seafood much too firm, and the wrappers not much better in texture.  At this level and price, the scallop/crab etc. should taste incredibly fresh, with its natural sweetness and ocean flavors coming through with each bite.  Instead, the dumplings were overall too firm and bland, with the exception of the cheong fun (rice noodle roll) that had a pepper slaw on top which added some single-note heat.  The suckling pig was also on the dry side and did not have the signature crispy skin.

The first entree sized dish was Live Maine “Angry Lobster” with Spicy Szechuan Chilies, Fried Garlic, and Black Bean Dust.  This was served with a bowl of Lop Cheung Sausage Fried Rice for the table. This too, failed to impress as it did not bring anything new to the table - just another traditional Chinese preparation, poorly executed. The lobster was plated table-side, as Chinese restaurants would typically do, and two of us furthest away from the server could tell even from a distance that the lobster was overcooked - the meat had a turgid quality that we could see from 10 feet away. We wanted the sauce to be a bit more clean and sophisticated - but it tasted slapped together, and was slathered thickly onto the lobster - completely smothering any hope of us tasting its presumed freshness and natural flavor.  The fried rice lacked 'wok air' - the fragrant 'heat' that comes from cooking on a nice hot wok which releases the flavors of the food.  It was more...just overwhelmingly sweet without the distinct 'perkiness' of well cooked rice.

Just from reading the menu, the course I most looked forward to was the Whole Roasted Duckling “Peking Style” with Stir-Fried Fall Mushrooms, Snap Peas, Scallion.  Peking duck is one of my favorite dishes - even as a kid I appreciated the balance of yieldy meat/juicy fat/crunchy scallions and those savory flavors interlacing with the sweetness of hoisin sauce - and all the goodness of that combo soaked up in a warm, pillowy bao (bread bun). WP24 sticks with tradition in this dish as well, bringing out the whole roasted duck for viewing before serving carved pieces on plates with steamers of bao and a plate of garnishes including Stir Fried Fall Mushrooms, Snap Peas, and Scallion.   This dish made up a bit for the faltering of the preceding ones - it was an admirable effort, not the best Peking Duck I've ever had, but a decent and fairly delicious attempt.

There was one dish that night that our table unanimously voted as a favorite, and it wasn't really Chinese: Grilled Lamb Chop Lacquered with Coriander-Pickled Ginger Sauce, Fresh Chilies & Aromatics.  This was served with Spicy Chow Fun, Fragrant Thai Basil.  We liked everything about the dish, from the enticing presentation, which seemed more artful than the others, to the incredibly juicy, tender texture and finally great interplay of flavors coming from the rings of different sauces around the meat.  The chow fun (thick, flat noodles that are stir-fried with minimal sauce) was forgettable and didn't really go with the lamb dish, which seemed more of a western preparation with sauces using eastern ingredients.

 


As a pre-dessert/ palate cleanser our next course was Lychee Yuzu Sorbet with Coconut “Explosion”.  This basically consisted of a scoop of lychee yuzu sorbet, and a coconut spherification served on a spoon.  Both were refreshing after the intense flavor of the lamb course and served as a good transition to dessert.





Our dessert course was Sweet White Corn Fritters served with Pandan Ice Cream, White Chocolate Corn Pudding, and berries.  I actually really enjoyed parts of this dish - especially the corn fritters, which were lovely, fresh sweet corn in fresh fried dough - and something I've never really had before.  All at the table agreed that the other elements of the dish did not come together in a coherent way, but seemed like 'dessert chop suey' - a mish-mosh of disparate ingredients thrown together with no apparent point of view.  For example, in theory, we get the sort of play with corn - having it in the fritter, then putting it also in popcorn form with the caramel popcorn kernels piled beneath the ice cream.  But on the plate, they just didn't go together and the popcorn was stiff and awkward to eat along with the ice cream and fritters and berries and pudding.

We finished out the meal with a complimentary Cookie Plate - deconstructed fortune cookie, and other traditional cookies (I think they were almond?).

All in all, I was not happy to have paid Michelin-star prices for a meal that didn't in my view aspire in general to deliver anything more than traditional Chinese fare, and did not even execute those dishes at fine-dining level.  Is it unfair to compare this outpost of LA Chinese fine dining to masters in their country of origin?  Yes, probably.  But even without that measuring stick, the quality of our meal in my view did not justify the $140 - I would have much rather spent it on 5 satisfying meals in the SGV (albeit without the view and ambiance), or a really mind-blowing one from Providence.  And, unlike other restaurants that have chefs of a culture not reflective of the featured cuisine, where they are using the cuisine's flavors and ingredients and being inventive and interpretive with it - so that at least you get to experience something new via their perspective - WP24 seems to for the most part just take the traditional preparations and 'introduce' them to guests at inflated prices.

I do wish for more fine dining Chinese food in LA to shift the view of Chinese only as greasy food served in chaotic, loud, hole-in-the-wall spots or staid parlors - to show that it can take a seat at the table of esteemed culinary artistry as well, as it does in Hong Kong. WP24 gets it right in terms of venue - but unfortunately the food that night left me wanting.

Food aside, the true draw of WP24 is the venue - the view is truly incredible at night - and they do offer a daily Happy Hour 5-7pm with a 3-course prix fixe menu for $24, served in the lounge only.  For that deal, I would return - to the lounge.  Otherwise, for my money, next time I want Chinese I'm going to forgo the curiousity with western interpretations, and sticking with the SGV.


On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 4 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 5 bites
Price - $$$$$ (5 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 60% (for Happy Hour)


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WP24
900 W Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, California 90015
Ph: 213.743.8824


Website: wolfgangpuck.com
Look for reservations: Opentable.com
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WP24 (Ritz-Carlton) on Urbanspoon

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Yamashiro Farmers' Market: Free Fun Fusion Thursdays

Yamashiro is one of those LA landmarks that I've somehow never made it to in my 15 years here.  Though I'd heard of its legendary views in the hills above Hollywood, its prices were of an unreachable altitude for me as a student, and then when I started working there were so many other places which had more irresistible appeal to my inner foodie, and I had to pick and choose based on budget.

But I am a fan of farmers' markets, and when I found out about the one Yamashiro hosts Thursday nights (April to September) - albeit a year late, this is their second year - I invited 'Designer' to check it out with me. 

There were several things to love about Yamashiro's Farmers' Market, even before we ever set foot on the property:

It's one of the few NIGHT markets  - running 5-9pm, the timing is convenient for those who want  to access fresh produce during the week but have day jobs (I have yet to make it to Santa Monica's Wednesday Farmers' Market).  There's always the original Farmers' Market on 3rd and Fairfax, but strolling through the permanent structure just doesn't feel the same as your weekly 'event' markets.

FREE parking and shuttle the word "Hollywood" usually conjures thoughts of "parking nightmare" - and Yamashiro is conscious of this as well as challenges with access to its hilltop location.  So they offer free parking in a lot just off Hollywood and La Brea (at 7107 Hollywood Blvd), with free shuttle service up & down the hill.  This past Thursday, the lot was full as I drove past, but I easily found meter parking a block south on La Brea (free after 6pm).  It was then just a short walk to the lot to catch the shuttle. 

'Designer' overheard the best description of the journey up the tree-lined, winding road to the market from a fellow rider - it felt like a 'field trip'!

We loved the street / food fest vibe of the market - with its 20s/30s crowd milling about, getting wine & beer while perusing the produce and food offerings - bonding easily with strangers over their finds or shared seating at the makeshift tables and chairs lining the length of the terrace overlooking the city. 

We'd heard about the awesome food, with a well-curated collection of vendors and food trucks (including Heirloom LA and Coolhaus last Thursday!) but were most excited to try Yamashiro exec chef  Brock Kleweno's offerings at street food prices. Yamashiro's Market Grill menu had us drooling on sight - it was all we could do to restrain ourselves from ordering the entire list!

Since short rib is now ubiquitous though, we decided to go with the more unique sounding fusion tacos: Black Cod with miso sake marinade ($6) and Duck Confit with blood orange and agave salsa ($5).  You could watch the chefs - including Chef Brock - prepare your food from the open grill at the tent.  Both fusion tacos were amazing, tender, juicy and flavorful, each served with crazy addictive (and free!) sides of Wasabi Guacamole and Pickled Shishito Peppers.  Easily my favorite fusion street tacos. 

I LOVED the wasabi guacamole while Designer was a huge fan of the peppers.  We could have had a meal just of these!  We hustled back to the taco stand before they closed for second rounds of the cod tacos, and when I told Chef Brock how much I loved the guac he was nice enough to give us extra dollops!

Had the guac been for sale I would have bought a bucket full - and was thrilled when Chef Brock said they are thinking about starting to offer it for sale!!!!

We were so obsessed with Yamashiro's food that we didn't really get to peruse of the other stalls after we started in on the food - but they had some fun ones from jewelry to loofah vendors.

Which brings me to the other cool thing about Yamashiro Farmers' Market - the element of the unexpected.  That day they had tweeted an invite for people to "check out the Wolves" and to "Hang out with them above the Pagoda Bar".  I and some other folks at the market thought they were talking about a live band.  When we found out they meant actual, live animals we could pet and play with in the terraces above the market, we had to make a stop there!

Though we weren't entirely sure of the thematic connection...could it be to spark thoughts of being "hungry like a wolf"?...it was for a good cause, their special appearance was in support of a wolf sanctuary to raise awareness and funds.  And I had been trying to train myself recently to stop looking for reason and logic in everything, to stop living in my head so much and just to go with the flow - live in the present to enjoy it. This was one great example of that.  The wolves were beautiful, gentle and adorable. One sleepyhead snuggled against its trainer, while another named "Maya" was at first shy, but when encouraged by her trainer turned friendly and came up to us for head rubs.  We had a fab time playing with and taking pics of the wolves, who were sweet as puppies - loved them!

And last but not least, Yamashiro ("Mountain Palace" in Japanese) is known for its spectacular views, which didn't disappoint.  We sat down at the benches to admire the view at dusk, with lights glowing from buildings below.  Couldn't believe it took us this long to 'discover' this place!

Peaceful and relaxing, it almost felt like we were on vacation - though we should have brought warmer clothes as it got a bit cold once it started getting dark. 

With all the cool/fun stuff happening, I actually forgot about fruit / veggie shopping! D'oh! I do remember the prices, at quick glance, being comparable to other farmers' markets - a bucket of cherries for example was $5, same as at Studio City Farmers' Market.

Before leaving (last shuttle leaves at 10pm) we wandered into the restaurant to check it out.  Built by German brothers in 1914 as a private estate to house their finds from "the orient", which has since evolved to restaurant and public gardens - it definitely doesn't give off the same aura of authenticity (as much as you can get in LA) that Gonpachi boasts of in terms of architecture / decor / vibe, but if you take it for what it is - a historic tourist attraction, that does offer a very LA experience for those who want to sip asian-inspired cocktails with respectively themed names and typography, or enjoy CalAsian fare over amazing views, Yamashiro is a great venue for a night out with friends, private events, or a date depending on who you're with.

For those who want to experience Yamashiro without paying Michelin-star prices - Farmers' Market, which just got named one of the World's Top Night Markets by Travel+Leisure, is a must every Thursday 5-9pm now through September.  Be sure to stop by the ATM first though as the Yamashiro Market Grill is cash only.  I know I'll definitely be back for those tacos and wasabi guac/or just for a refreshing local getaway for a few hours during the week!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark Yamashiro Farmers' Market Grill menu)
Probability of return visit - 100% 

[See more photos from Yamashiro Farmers' Market at my Facebook page]
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Yamashiro Farmers' Market
Thursdays 5-9pm
1999 N. Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, CA 90068
Ph: 323.466.5125

Parking: Free in lot at 7107 Hollywood Blvd, with free shuttle service to market. Also free meter parking after 6pm on La Brea.

Website: yamashirorestaurant.com
Twitter:
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Yamashiro on Urbanspoon

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