1MB Travels: Vegas: Raku - What Happens In Vegas...

Every so often, I fantasize about being someone who treats rules as something to be broken.  The imagined freedom of being carefree, of doing what you want to do without the chains of obligation, fear, worry.  But thoughts of risk, consequence, damage - always rein me back in.  And then I realize I am someone who is sadly more often broken by rules, versus the other way around.

I guess that's why I have developed such a passion for food: it's an area that allows you to be adventurous, a risk-taker, but to do it all safely.  Within bounds.  Without consequence.  For the most part.  Call me a walking Lifetime special.

So it is, that when in Vegas, the kind of debauchery I allow myself to indulge in is not of the sort that would be fodder for a female version of Hangover - but more of the literally culinary kind.

The first time I ventured to famed and foodie-beloved Aburiya Raku, every moment felt like an adventure.  Everyone else wanted to stay on the strip, many within the hotel we were staying in - but thanks to gourmands who love to eat and share - I knew that amazingly tasty and affordable foods were to be found off strip.  And the 'getting there' would be much more exciting than walking downstairs to the nearest glitzy new restaurant downstream from the lobby.

I convinced a friend to go with me - and after an only-in-the-movies sort of cab ride where we were given a dissertation on the types of people who come to Vegas and exactly why they each make our driver angry - we arrived at the back corner of the non-descript strip mall, one amongst many in Chinatown, that Raku called home.

We pulled up to the bar, great for line of sight at what's happening in the kitchen and at the counter - and proceeded to drool over the blackboard and regular menus, packed with delicious sounding creatures of land and sea.  I remember laughing at my friend, who is over 6 feet tall, trying to find a comfortable place to put his legs at the bar built for smaller people.  I remember charcoal grilled wagyu, skewers of foie, and a blur of great conversation touching even on evolutionary psychology, punctuated by unctuous plates. I fell in love with Raku in that first visit - so much so that I didn't even take notes about the food - I was so in the moment enjoying it.

It was difficult to leave it behind and I wished we could have this experience back home.  Luckily, I was able to return on the next Vegas visit.  Here's the report on highlights from the meal: 
 

Poached Egg with Sea Urchin and Salmon Roe ($9) - this was egg-on-egg-on-egg action at its most luscious.  A perfectly poached egg, with its liquid sun yolk, connected all the other elements in the sea glass style bowl - creamy uni (sea urchin gonads), a food group in itself for me, brought its trademark funky flavor, while ikura (salmon roe) offered lovely bursts of brine, skillfully counterbalanced by the mild-mannered crunch of finely chopped white mountain yam, sweet juicy earthiness of adorable mini honshimeji mushrooms, and the clean crisp slices of raw okra. Perfection.  How is it possible that no one else thought to put these ingredients together before?!

Then of course, a trip outside of California is a wasted trip, if I do not get my fill of the now-banned foie gras. And with a fantastic robata grill, I had to get the Grilled Foie skewer.  There was a little too much sauce on it which made it a bit too sweet, but I was happy to get my hands on any amount or preparation of foie at all.

Then there was the famed Agedashi Tofu (half $7.50) - everyone's recommmended 'must get' dish at Raku.  It was pretty transcendent.  Not sure how they managed to keep the fried skin of the silky housemade tofu clean and crisp while soaked within the richly flavored, yet light and clear dashi (broth).  The baby mushrooms again make an appearance here and serve to add textural interest.

Spotting quickly another foie dish, again at a very reasonable price - I had to get the Steamed Foie Gras Egg Custard ($10).  I loved the soft, smooth texture of the chawanmushi (steamed egg custard), with the umami, earthy decadent flavors of foie striking the perfect balance between the two of levity and depth.  All topped by a rich, flavorful piece of duck.

I finished out the meal clean, with the Kanpachi Special ($12) off the blackboard.  It was one of the most beautiful, artful presentations of both the fish and the plate.  There wasn't any mind-blowingly unique pairings of ingredients here, but sometimes when the ingredients are pristine the best thing to do is not to mess with it too much, and just let nature be the star.  The presentation of course adds to the enjoyment of the dish though and they pulled that off perfectly here.

Although every time I leave Raku, I wish they could have a branch in LA - I realized that it's better that it stays in Vegas.  It's human nature to want what we can't have - and maybe its inaccessibility on an everyday basis is what helps it sustain that pedestal status in my mind.  Maybe it wouldn't feel or taste the same at all, if I had access to it in LA.  It definitely gives me something to look forward to next time I'm in town again - and perhaps will even be a reason for another visit.

Raku: I will be back for more shameless indulgence. Calories be damned. Til then, this is me, encapsulating you, into a beautiful memory.

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Raku

5030 Spring Mountain Rd, Ste. 2, Las Vegas, NV 89146

Ph: 702.367.3511

Website: raku-grill.com

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Katana: Haute Summer Grilling Over Sunset Blvd

As a kid - even up through college - summer seemed to last forever.  Two months felt like an eternity to do with as you please - and by the time September rolled around, you were for the most part ready to head back to school, to see your friends, to tackle the excitement of a new year and what it might bring. 

Now, with a full-time job and year round responsibilities -  summer seems to pass with the blink of an eye.  We are blessed in Southern California that the Fall and Winter don't really get that bad...(another reason I will probably never leave) - the weather is pretty much great all the time (relatively to say, Toronto) with the exception of February and June. But those summer months, where the sun seems to shine even brighter, and the air seems to be denser with promise of carefree adventure - are still incredibly precious.  It's the time of year where you want to be outdoors, as much as you can - for me, that does NOT mean roughing it on bare bones campgrounds, but more like grabbing good food, with great company, al fresco.

So I was excited when I was invited to check out Katana, a robatayaki/sushi hotspot featuring outdoor dining on its patio overlooking Sunset Blvd. 

The place feels like a hidden gem, located on the second floor with a barely visible sign that's easy to miss while driving down Sunset - the biggest landmark being its neighbor, The Comedy Store.  You pull into the narrow entrance of the garage and take a questionably vintage elevator ride - that opens up to a serene, chic space that feels like a different world from the stereotypical Hollywood vibe on the street below.

The interiors are modern Asian fusion, lush, dark, cavernous, ornate - with two large, open kitchens - one for robata service, the other for sushi - side by side.  But we were there for the patio - a gorgeous space with dark, long rattan couches and a flowering fountain.

Mims and I kicked off the sultry summer evening with a round of cocktails: Ginger Lychee Mojito ($14) Barcardi Rum, Fresh Mint, Lychee, Ginger, and fresh lime juice. Kimono Dragon ($14) Oxley Gin, Aperol, grapefruit juice, fresh lemon sour, muddled lemon, and basil

Before our food arrived, we were treated to a tour of the kitchens and got to meet the chefs - checking out the open-flame, charcoal-fired grills and impressive glass case of skewers of every kind of meat imaginable.  They use a special kind of charcoal here called binchotan, imported from Japan. It's a white charcoal that does not release smoke or unpleasant odors as it burns, letting the flavors of the ingredients shine through instead.

Back on the patio, we started with the sushi side of the house - a beautiful presentation of sashimi that made us feel like we were on vacation. 

Flowers make everything better: edible gorgeousness.

I usually don't love tuna tartare, but this one was super fresh and I loved the addition of briny caviar, and the counterbalancing crunch of wonton 'scoopers', with mayonnaise and sesame oil as well as soy sauce.

One of the first skewers to arrive was also one of our favorites: Chilean Sea Bass ($5.25): super tender, juicy with a lovely sweetness balanced by a delicious robata char. Skewers are served with three dipping sauces: soy mustard, ginger and ponzu.

Then, because I have a penchant for the unusual, there were Quail Eggs ($3), Chicken Liver ($3) and Chicken Cartilage ($2.75).  The quail eggs got a little too rubbery on the outside, and the chicken cartilage was as to be expected tough and chewy - not ones I might get again - but I enjoyed the rich, flavorful chicken liver skewers.

The more classic Wagyu beef ($20) skewers were tender, juicy, flavor-packed and another favorite.  We also tried the Chicken Meatballs ($3.75) - a nice price point for those who just want small bites to go with their drinks, Izakaya style.

The showstopper though was hands-down the Wagyu beef + lobster skewers with UNI TRUFFLE BUTTER ($26).  During the kitchen tour the chef seemed especially proud of this one, and I was sold as soon as I heard the magic words Uni and Truffle.

Here's a shot of the grilled skewer.  SO delicious. Definitely the one to order if you're at a client dinner powered by an expense account.

Those on a budget should not miss the Lamb Chop Marinated in Soy Garlic ($6) this might have been one of the best bites of lamb I'd had in the city this year.  Sorry for the dark pic as we were having such a great time eating and catching up, that we didn't notice that our meal was heading into like the third hour until the light started changing on us.

All in all, a fantastic time and great spot to 'choose your own adventure' especially during summer - whether it's after work drink and small bites, or for a splurgey client meal over an iconic stretch of Hollywood literally and figuratively elevated above the fray.

Note: On the weeknight that we went, it had a very relaxed, serene vibe until closer to 10pm when the patio got more crowded, and noticeably louder.  We heard on Saturdays the patio gets more packed, with more of the Hollywood crowd, so plan your visit according to whatever you're more into.

 
*Disclaimer: This meal was hosted.

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Katana

8439 W Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069

Ph:323.650.8585

Parking: Valet in structure below restaurant (entry on Sunset)

Website: innovativedining.com/restaurants/katana

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Maruhide Uni Club: aka Unitopia: Sign Me Up for Lifetime Membership! (CLOSED)

Imagine a place where they serve uni, which may not be live, but are caught daily and tastes fresher than any live sea urchin you've been able to access at any given local farmers market.

Imagine a place where they center their *entire* menu around this tastiest of delicacies.

And then imagine that a *bowlful* of this fantastic sea urchin costs UNDER $13.

And then completely die of happiness when you realize that this place is REAL, and it's just a short drive down to Torrance.  That was me, having a lucid dream that came to life, last Saturday night.

When it comes to Japanese food in LA, it seems that the best spots are tucked away into strip malls or other off the beaten path venues. At least that is true of my favorites: Asanebo, Sushi Iki (post to come), Sushi Gen and Marugame Monzo.

Maruhide Uni Club also has this qualifying trait - it's in a strip mall off Redondo Beach Blvd in Torrance, neighbor to a beauty salon, dental and optometry offices and other shops that are far from making the mall a dining destination.

Once you're inside, it's a serene escape from its outer surroundings: the design feels like what I would imagine a family run restaurant from the 90s that aspired to emulate a western tea room from some resort hotel/country club in Japan would look and sound like, complete with soundtrack of classical music.

I was in heaven the minute I opened the extensive menu - it took all my willpower not to order everything (this was actually my second dinner of the night, after filling up on pizza with a friend who is not into uni).  I finally settled on the Sea Urchin Cream Croquette ($12.80) to start. It was beautifully plated, and tasty with the panko crust over a creamy uni stuffed filling, topped with uni cream sauce.  But the next time I go (I will be back again as soon as I can!!!) - for the price and the amount of superfluous (to me) veggies filling the plate...I would skip this and stick to the other more uni focused (and more delicious) dishes...

...like the foodgasm inducing uni Specialty Bowls.  They all feature uni, but you can select from combinations with sashimi staples like ikura (salmon roe), scallop, tuna and/or salmon.  All bowls come in two sizes: Regular (comes with uni egg omelette, uni soup and salad) and Mini (comes with uni egg omelette and uni soup).  Since you know my feelings about veggies at this point, you know that I went right for mini (though I do want to see how much larger the Regular bowl is on my next visit)!
 
And, as an unrepentant uni fan, I had to go for the bowl with ALL uni.  The first thing to arrive was the uni soup, a light and refreshing clear broth with slivers of onion and pieces of uni - a great tease for what's to come.

Specialty Bowl #4 was basically Uni 4 ways: Fresh and Boiled Sea Urchin & Marinated Sea Urchin + the uni tamago (Japanese style omelette) that came with every bowl: at the risk of sounding like an infomercial or bad car dealer spot, I have to say "all for the insane price of $12.60"!!!

Here's how each one breaks down:
Fresh: fantastic Santa Barbara sea urchin, among the freshest I've had in the city, though not the absolute best - leaps and bounds above anything you can get at the farmers market (live uni doesn't always mean great uni), or at Quality Seafood and SO MANY MORE PIECES for the price.

Boiled: I've never tasted uni boiled before Maruhide, and this prep really tames the pungent marine funk that I love (but that may make it more palatable for people who don't love that as much) while creating a texture that for some reason reminds me a bit of bottarga - not at all as dense overall, but I mean in terms of each orb of 'roe' (ok really, gonad on uni) comes to stand out and make its presence known, texturally.  I still love the fresh more but it was really interesting to taste uni made this way.

Marinated: this is also a first for me - uni marinated in kombu-shoyu or kelp soy sauce.  It's like the different ways uni is prepped as it appears on this bowl can be placed on a spectrum of intensity of funk: in which case, it would go from boiled (mildest) to fresh, to marinated (super funky). Its creamy blast of umami is scooped onto what looks like a lilypad but is a thin slice of radish.  This tastes amazing with the perfectly cooked sushi rice underneath.

Uni 'omelette': this was my second favorite after the fresh uni. It's basically tamago - slightly sweet egg formed into a smooth textured 'cake' - with uni paste rolled into its layers.  Amazing.  I could eat these (plus that fresh uni) every day for the rest of my life and die a happy uni-eater.

Aside from the specialty bowls, they do also have other delicacies that will light food lovers' eyes on fire, like sea cucumber carpaccio, 'tongue stew' and things that I need to try on my next visit: grilled sea urchin, and sea urchin cream pasta (need to see how it compares to Marugame Monzo's uni udon!).

Here's a look at the Specialty Bowls page of their menu:

Maruhide's restaurant has only been open for a few months. I loved that I was able to slide in for a table easily on a Saturday night.  But since the LA Times scouted and wrote about the place, I'm not sure how much longer before the place starts popping, and was glad that I was able to experience it before the place is overrun.  So ecstatic that a place like this exists and Maruhide, may you live long and prosper!!!!

Update 7/13/13:
Yeah so I went back last night with friends @miffyeats and @munchabout, and made much better (and many more) choices.  We went on a bit of an uni bender!

First up was the Fresh Uni Sashimi ($12) we INHALED this one, the perfect platter for purists, and yes at an insanely great price.

Sated with the pure uni experience, we were then able to move on to the 'new' (at least to us) preparations we'd never tried before: in the "shutou" section. These are basically sea urchin 'preserved' in various marinades or frozen.  We got the sampler where you can experience 3 kinds (from 6 options): Ruibe was the most unique, almost like a frozen sea urchin terrine that could well serve as dessert.  The other two were whole uni marinated in various sauces, and presented in cute little round containers: Shutou with Yuzu Chili was my absolute favorite from this plate - the tartness and slight heat enhancing the taste of the plump tongues of umami.  Shutou Original was also delicious, but not one that sends your Foodie Senses tingling like the others.

I couldn't leave without trying the Grilled Sea Urchin ($12) which tasted fresh off the robata grill, delicious with a fragrant smokey char and delicate crisp warmth on the outside, and cool with the familiar and unique texture of uni on the inside.  With light sprinkling of salt on top to bring out flavors even more and add contrasting crunch. Instantly addictive and what I will make sure I get every time I come to Maruhide.  I haven't seen grilled uni offered anywhere else in LA (on its own anyway) - if you come to Maruhide don't leave without trying this.

And because this really is how much we love uni - while munchabout wisely chose Specialty Bowl #9 (Nigiyaka) which offers more variety to sample with uni accompanied by various fish sashimi over rice....miffyeats and I - true to our singular obsession devotion - EACH got a Regular-sized Specialty Bowl #1 Sea Urchin Bowl ($18.80).  Our server was kind of in shock and asked twice to confirm whether we really wanted to add two bowls after all we'd already inhaled.  The answer of course was YES, YES, YES.  On my previous visit I had questioned whether I wanted to larger size especially when it also came with salad.  We realized when our orders arrived that the Regular Bowl may be the smarter choice.  The bowl anyway was about three times the size of the 'Mini' and still under $20 (just $7 more than the mini).  The uni pieces were larger, and you get two uni tamago (egg omelettes) instead of just one.

The salad as you knew I would say was meh, with ordinary looking and tasting greens and tomatoes but for those who care, also topped with uni mayo dressing.

We were too full for dessert at that point (but no they did not have uni ice cream anyway).  Maruhide is actually a retailer of uni as well - apparently their shutou is served on Japan Airlines in the first class cabin! - so it was fun, on our way out, to check out their refrigerated case of goodies.  They do offer trays of uni to go, at various tiers of quality / pricing from factory farmed at $14 to fresh Santa Barbara uni in brine for $19.50 to premium fresh at $55.

Maruhide recommends eating the fresh uni the same day though - so since we were (blasphemously!) too full of uni to take any fresh ones home, I picked up two boxes of the much loved Uni Shutou with Yuzu & Chili ($10.50 each) that can go in the freezer for that little taste of uni-topia (and apparently JAL First Class VIP treatment) during the week...while I count down the hours til my next visit to Maruhide!!!



 
*For those who don't live within driving distance of Maruhide (i.e. out of state!) they do have an online store as well - enjoy!

Update Spring 2016: unfortunately Maruhide the restaurant has now closed for business.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites  
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience -  5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% 

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Maruhide Uni Club

2130 W Redondo Beach Blvd., Torrance, CA 90504

Ph: 562.435.6509

Parking: free in strip mall open air lot attached to restaurant

Website: maruhide.us

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Sushi Roku: Sweet Sixteen Specials

I'd always wondered about Sushi Roku, the sushi chain belonging to the same restaurant group as BOA Steakhouse, but somehow never found my way there.

So it was nice to see an invite in my inbox recently, to a Sweet Sixteen celebration at the original location - preview of a special menu marking the 16th anniversary of Sushi Roku Hollywood's opening.

At this location only, starting tomorrow March 1st through the end of the month, they will be serving a menu of special dishes and cocktails - 16 of which are $8 each, and two at $16 each.

The one that jumped out at me the most, of course was the Toro Sushi with shaved black truffles ($16)! I unfortunately didn't get to try this at the preview event, but I did like the American Kobe Meatballs with mayo and karashi mustard (3 pcs for $7).

Other items on the menu include:

· American Kobe Beef Potsticker ($8) with kimchee and soy chili vinegar

· Tuna Tartare (2 pcs for $8) with caviar and wasabi root - I did try this one and the presentation was fun, in a little fried wonton cup shaped like one of those Tostito scoopers. The caviar, tuna and wasabi are all strong flavors - for those who like flavors to go 'all out'.

· Spicy Tuna Hanabi (2 pcs for $5) served on crispy rice

There are also specialty cocktails, and the Lychee Imperial Martini with Belvedere, lychee & lemon sour and kefir lime leaf is very drinkable at $8.

Though many of the food items are still relatively pricey, the drinks seem reasonable - and it's one option for a night out in Hollywood in a 'historic' (by LA standards, 16 years is an eternity!) venue. Plus, those who order from Sushi Roku's Sweet Sixteen menu during March will automatically be entered to win an Omakase experience for four people from Executive Chef Jiro Kobayashi.

Good luck!

Disclosure: This meal was hosted.
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Sushi Roku Hollywood
8445 W 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048
Ph: 323.655.6767

Website: sushiroku.com
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Hide Sushi: A Gem of a Sushi Lunch Special

Hide Sushi is a not-so-hidden neighborhood gem for locals in the know.  It took me a year of working in the area to make it here and I'm kicking myself for losing all that time that I could have been having awesome affordable sushi for lunch!

An old school, cozy little place without any obvious signage outside, the best way to locate the restaurant is to head just across Sawtelle from the modern complex currently housing lunch hotspots Tsujita, Nongla and ROC Kitchen, then look for the traditional-style Japanese house facade, white-washed with brown tiled 'roof'.

It can get crowded at lunch, and when my co-worker and I went they did not have tables for us, but we were happy to slide up to the counter - you get faster service there anyways as the chef is right in front of you! We of course skipped the cooked foods (teriyaki, noodles) section of the menu, and dove straight into the lunch specials.

We both got the Nigiri special ($12.80) which had very generously sized rolls of mackerel, salmon, yellowtail, tuna, shrimp, egg, and (impressively considering the price and instinct of most other restaurants to cater to  the lowest common denominator with their lunch packages) surf clam and octopus.

Every piece was good quality for the price (obviously you're not getting Tsukiji quality in this price range - but it's very good compared to others in this tier).  I really loved the portion size as well - definitely a filling lunch for average sized ladies!

Though the special was satisfying in itself, I can never pass up ankimo (monkfish liver) - especially now with the foie gras ban in effect, this is kind of like my sea creature substitute (they do say ankimo is like foie of the sea!).  It was cool to see the chef's eyes light up when I ordered it too - perhaps the usual office lunch crowd doesn't always venture into this area of the menu. Hide Sushi does have a full a la carte menu of nigiri and hand rolls - unfortunately I was so excited I didn't take notes on pricing for the ankimo - but if memory serves correctly, these two massive rolls were under $5 total. 

All in all, a fantastic lunch spot - that, even with all the newer options constantly popping up on Sawtelle - we'll be coming back to often!!! (We'll just have to remember to bring cash, as they don't take credit cards - though there is an ATM machine right inside the entrance.)

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5.5 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 5 stars
Service - 5.5 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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Hide Sushi
2040 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles, CA 90025
Ph: 310.477.7242

Parking: free valet on Missisippi west of Sawtelle (behind Tsujita...for that complex ;))

Note: CASH ONLY
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N/Naka: eat/give/hope Leukemia and Lymphoma Society Benefit Dinner

As something that is a necessity for survival, food and consumption in its basest form is primal instinct.  At the other extreme are chefs who perhaps over-intellectualize in attempt to elevate the culinary arts.  Somewhere around the pivot point, in perfect balance - is N/Naka. Chef Niki Nakayama takes the Japanese tradition of kaiseki (seasonal small exquisite dishes in perfect balance) and seeks to create an experience, a 'narrative', for her guests that is artistic and accessible.

I'd always wanted to experience N/Naka, but they offer tasting menus only, and the lowest priced one that isn't vegetarian costs $110 - though 9-courses are involved, it was still out of my price range.  Then N/Naka announced that they were doing a series of Sunday dinners at $55, 6-courses, to benefit the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society, and I knew that was divine intervention: finally a price point I can afford, and all to go towards a good cause.  Yes, dineLA is still happening, and I'm still recovering from a long holiday trip - but there was no way I was going to miss this event at N/Naka. 

As soon as my friend Teach and I set foot in the space, we fell in love with it immediately - it was small and cozy with a mere handful of tables - but had a very serene, soothing vibe with minimal but tasteful decor, including a zen pebble garden in the middle of each table.

What's clear from the menu for the night, is the thought Chef Nakayama puts into her concept and execution - while at the same time taking care to make everything very accessible and enjoyable. It's not about ego or show-womanship here, but genuine passion that goes out with each plate.  The first course, Sakizuke is described as "(a pairing of something common and someting unique) bigeye tuna, avocado dashi, jalapeno, cilantro, tempura soy paper".  Fish and avocado are a common match in sushi, but this execution is refreshing and new - I don't want to use the word 'deconstruct' which is implicitly obnoxious and that is not what Chef Nakayama's food is about, but this is sort of a new way of preparing and pulling together elements normally found in a sushi roll.  I liked the balance of different textures flaky, creamy, crunchy, density (fish) and levity (accoutrements) and the bit of heat and herbaceousness added by the jalapeno and cilantro. A nice tease for the rest of the meal.

Zensai: (main seasonal ingredient presented as an appetizer) "san ten mori" pan seared beef teres major, mixed baby greens, miso pepper dressing; baked fanny bay oyster, sesame aioli; hamachi carpaccio, sweet sesame ponzu.  Loved every bite on this plate - I normally like my oysters naked so I can taste pure ocean in them, but the sesame aioli was light enough in flavor and consistency that it worked with the oyster, and did not overwhelm it  Loved the brush of wasabi aioli to go with the beef as well - the Japanese take on horseradish cream served the American way with steak.

Mushimono/Agemono: (steamed dish/fried dish) steamed lobster chawanmushi, black prince tomato, lobster glaze; vegetable "kaki-age" tempura with gobo, maitake, carrots and onions. You know that scene in Runaway Bride where Richard Gere's character accuses Julia Roberts' of not knowing who she is, so much so that she doesn't even know what kind of eggs she likes, and so she spends a morning with plates of every possible preparation of egg to taste test until she can determine which is her favorite?  Yeah so that's not me at all.  I KNOW I love eggs in multiple forms, in this order: 63 degree, soft boiled, scrambled, AND as chawanmushi (steamed). I haven't encountered too many places that serve it steamed (FarmShop, Torafuku, The Coop pop-up, and now N/Naka are the only ones I know...)

So I was excited to see N/Naka serve this.  And of course with their own touch - topped with rich tomato based lobster sauce and a tender, juicy piece of the crustacean, plus crumbled pieces of what I thought was ground beef for textural contrast.  Here's a gratuitous close up of the steamed egg - super light and smooth.  I loved the tempura on the side too, as a sort of foil for the smoothness and levity of the chawanmushi.  Everything in balance. I'd read that Chef Niki grows her own vegetables in her organic garden - and though not a big fan of veggies in general, preferring seafood or better quality cuts of meat, I appreciated the freshness of the veggies used for the tempura, which came through clearly even past the batter.

Shiizakana: (chef's choice dish not bound by tradition) mentaiko pasta with italian summer truffles.  I love Japanese style pasta, which is generally much lighter on sauce and sweeter.  Chef Nakayama breaks tradition beyond the Japanese style of handling pasta, by adding mentaiko (marinated pollock roe), usually served in rice balls or on its own as a side dish, into the sauce for the pasta. Then topping it with Italian summer truffles so fragrant it turned heads the minute it left the kitchen.  So in a way, a sort of Japanese meets Italian interpretation of 'surf and turf', with fish and fungi instead of traditional proteins, in a bowl. One of my favorite dishes of the night.

Shokuji: (rice dish- sushi) "chirashi-zushi" a beautiful jewelry box-like presentation of gems from the sea.  There is nothing ground breaking about this chirashi course - just amazing cuts of incredibly fresh and flavorful fish over rice.  But as sushi lovers will tell you, the rice is just as important as the fish - and N/Naka gets a perfect 10 for the quality of their rice - it's at a perfect consistency where each grain is distinct but meld into a coherent whole.  Perfectly balanced sweetness with just a little bite from mixed in vinegar.  Fresh grated wasabi on a shiso leaf takes this over the top as possibly the best affordable chirashi I've ever tasted in LA (i.e. Urasawa and others of that several hundred $$$ per head class will certainly beat this, but I wouldn't know as that's completely not affordable for me)

 

Mizumono: (dessert): sesame panna cotta, okinawan black sugar syrup, black sesame paste, sesame tuille.  A gorgeous and dynamic, yet very simple dessert gave a photogenic finish to the fantastic meal.

Chef Nakayama is offering two more of these benefit dinners, Sunday February 3rd and 10th.  At last check she is already completely booked, with long waiting lists, but you can always try your luck for cancellations or see if she will offer more dates.

 

Can't make it to dinner but still want to make a donation?  Go to the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society site or give to Team in Training.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark for this special menu)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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N/Naka
3455 S. Overland Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90034 
Ph: 310.836.6252

Parking: Valet $5 at restaurant, or street parking (hard to find at dinnertime, check signs)

Website: n-naka.com
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SushiStop: Best Kind of Affordable Prix Fixe Sushi in WLA

Happy New Year!

Fresh back in LA from an amazing trip with the fam, I have so many places and stories to share that I don't even know where to start!!

So I'll begin the year with a practical post: more of a reminder to myself - a place I will need to frequent as what's left of my bank account recovers from our 2 week vacation.

SushiStop is a place that serves every food item on the menu for $2.75. Yes, it's true. It's part of that hopping complex on Sawtelle Blvd packed with ever buzz worthy concentrations of fantastic small business restaurants - the same one that houses Tsujita, Nongla and Seoul Sausage.

There has been so much attention recently on the exciting expansions of more diverse offerings from Korean (Seoul, Seoul Sausage) to Vietnamese (Nongla) to Chinese (ROC Dumpling House) to American (Plan Check) where Sawtelle north of Olympic had been for the most part focused on Japanese before 2012 - but Sushi Stop is a noteworthy pre-expansion spot for those who live/work in the area and looking for an affordable lunch/dinner option without Tsujita-length waits.

How do they control for more expensive ingredients vs less expensive ones with this fixed price system? By varying the number of pieces you get per order - so for example, an order of Salmon Sushi consists of 2 pieces, while the Uni (yes they have this too for $2.75!!) will only feature a single piece.

On a filling visit a few months back (I am seriously behind on posts!), Mims and I got:

Tofu Seaweed Udon - not a big fan of udon in general, but this is a nice option on a cold day. They also have mini-bowls with tempura udon.

Uni (Sea Urchin) / Ikura (Salmon Roe) with Quail Egg (!!!)

Salmon Belly flame seared salmon belly with caviar and ponzu and White Tuna flame seared albacore tuna with yuzu kosho and 'hint of truffle oil'

Salmon, Tuna and Scallop

Baked Green Mussels 4 pieces in 1 order - lots of mayo and cheese, which I usually don't like with seafood in the shell, but these were delicious (especially for the price :P)

And something I can't remember the name of now, but was a special.

The Ikura with raw quail egg was probably my favorite of the meal.

SushiStop is not a trailblazing, mind-blowing high concept destination dining kind of place, but a cozy, neighborhood spot that offers decent, not all run-of-the-mill sushi for an affordable price (so manage your expectations accordingly).

Seating is counter only, first come first served - if you arrive before or right at noon usually you should have no problem securing a seat as long as you don't have a huge group.

Also, they keep costs low by only accepting cash for payment, so be sure to bring some or you'll have to run to the ATM or try to get cash back at Nijiya market closeby.

Glad to have this life saver close to work - will be seeing you again soon, SushiStop!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 4.5 stars
Service - 5 stars
Overall experience - 5 bites
Price - $ (1 bite mark)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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SushiStop
(West LA location - check website for others in LA)
2053 Sawtelle Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90025
Ph: 310.473.3999

Parking: Free valet on Mississippi

Website: sushistopusa.com

***Cash only***
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