Showing posts with label Las Vegas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Las Vegas. Show all posts

Thursday, April 24, 2014

1MB Travels: Las Vegas: The Oyster Bar and Pavlovian Response

In that infamous experiment, physiologist Ivan Pavlov found that dogs, naturally salivating in anticipation of food, can be conditioned to react the same way to the sound of a bell, if trained to associate the ringing noise with food.

Recently, I discovered Vegas is my bell, and the seafood/Combo Pan Roast at Oyster Bar my unconditioned stimulus.  The mere mention of the city triggers thoughts of that almost-traffic-cone-colored-bowl-of-pure-delicious, and sets off unseemly drooling.

Even though everything about that place is all wrong.

With the exception of its incredible food/cocktail offerings, I hate everything that Vegas is.  The arid desert weather, the perpetual blanket of smoke that sits over every public indoor space, the constant barrage of light and sound, signifying nothing (but the most futile of dreams) trapped in claustrophobic bullet time. Especially seedy old school Vegas, with its worn carpets, dense with decades of cigarette and alcohol fueled footfall; its wrinkled old souls, feeding their lifeblood into the slot machine, who look like they will need to be surgically removed from it when they reach the end of their days.

And Palace Station, home to Oyster Bar, is off-off-strip, and probably one of the most OG casinos left standing. When foodie blogger friends first recommended this place, I honestly thought they were out of their minds.  Though off-strip, cozy authentic eateries are often the ones that offer the most amazing food...this was the kind of place where you would expect the $2.99 casino buffet - a fueling pit that is all utilitarian quantity, not quality.

And then they mentioned the place was basically a counter, 18 seats, no reservations - and the wait could be between one to three hours.  If we're lucky, and go during off-peak time.

Sound great so far?

Well, don't judge an oyster bar by its location - because this turned out to be one of my favorite places to eat in Vegas (see Pavlovian response).

There is indeed without fail, a long line snaking from this place at all hours - for good reason.  Their pan roasts, made fresh to order by snarky-funnyman chef Bob, are pretty damn amazing.











What is pan roast? It's your choice of seafood, roasted fresh in a cauldron/pan with a slot-machine-like-handle, with brandy, cream and tomato.

You also get to choose the level of spiciness: from 1 to 10, with 10 so extreme that even the chef discourages most people from ordering it.

They do take 'made to order' very seriously, and it takes a while to get it to just the right (roiling) temperature and consistency.
So, usually, you're starving by the time a seat opens up and you've been tortured tantalized by the untouchable scent of that magical pan roast for the last few hours... 

Many customers order a platter from the raw bar to relieve hunger pains until your pan roast is deemed ready by the chef. 

I went 1/2 for my half dozen ($12.99), since not many places serve clams raw and I really wanted to try it.  Neither the clams nor the oysters had the spring of the freshest catch, nor that neat, perfectly chilled brine that conjures deep ocean - but Water Grill this never tried to be, and when you've been waiting in line for hours, you start to appreciate any bite of food you can shovel in to stop your stomach from consuming itself while you await the main course.

And then came my Combo Pan Roast ($21.99).  Packed with lobster, crab and shrimp.  Immersed in rich brandy tomato cream sauce that has that irresistible tug on my tastebuds, that happens it seems whenever alcohol is used in cooking, leaving me lapping for more.

Into this very generously sized bowl, the chef turns over a cup of white rice, the better to both offset the heat in the sauce while highlighting its flavors. (I was only able to handle level 5 heat comfortably)



While the pan roast initially may seem pricey for this essentially 'seafood shack' style Cajun joint, the pieces of seafood are a healthy size, snappy-fresh, and there's lots of it in each gigantic lake of a bowl.  Most people (i.e. averaged sized Asians, in our group) would either be able to share a bowl between two people, or have enough leftovers for your next meal.
Since that first time, every time I go back to Vegas I must now stop at Oyster Bar.  (Beyond the food, there is a lovely  instant camaraderie between those 'in the know' and lots of bonding / commisserating while in line and at the counter that provides nice human moments while in sin city.)  While there are other tasty sounding Cajun dishes on the menu from gumbo to jambalaya: I can't imagine not getting the pan roast.  Because I know that the minute I've settled the bill, no matter how stuffed I am or if my arms are already filled with to go containers, I already wish I had ordered more.  And next time someone says 'Vegas', I will be right back at Oyster Bar, without question. 


On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6 bites  
Presentation - 5 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience -  2 stars
Service - 5.5 stars
Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100% 
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The Oyster Bar at Palace Station Casino
Las Vegas
2411 West Sahara Avenue Las Vegas, NV 89102
Ph: 702.367.2408

Open 24 hours!

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Oyster Bar on Urbanspoon







Sunday, October 27, 2013

1MB Travels: Vegas: Raku - What Happens In Vegas...

Every so often, I fantasize about being someone who treats rules as something to be broken.  The imagined freedom of being carefree, of doing what you want to do without the chains of obligation, fear, worry.  But thoughts of risk, consequence, damage - always rein me back in.  And then I realize I am someone who is sadly more often broken by rules, versus the other way around.

I guess that's why I have developed such a passion for food: it's an area that allows you to be adventurous, a risk-taker, but to do it all safely.  Within bounds.  Without consequence.  For the most part.  Call me a walking Lifetime special.

So it is, that when in Vegas, the kind of debauchery I allow myself to indulge in is not of the sort that would be fodder for a female version of Hangover - but more of the literally culinary kind.

The first time I ventured to famed and foodie-beloved Aburiya Raku, every moment felt like an adventure.  Everyone else wanted to stay on the strip, many within the hotel we were staying in - but thanks to gourmands who love to eat and share - I knew that amazingly tasty and affordable foods were to be found off strip.  And the 'getting there' would be much more exciting than walking downstairs to the nearest glitzy new restaurant downstream from the lobby.

I convinced a friend to go with me - and after an only-in-the-movies sort of cab ride where we were given a dissertation on the types of people who come to Vegas and exactly why they each make our driver angry - we arrived at the back corner of the non-descript strip mall, one amongst many in Chinatown, that Raku called home.

We pulled up to the bar, great for line of sight at what's happening in the kitchen and at the counter - and proceeded to drool over the blackboard and regular menus, packed with delicious sounding creatures of land and sea.  I remember laughing at my friend, who is over 6 feet tall, trying to find a comfortable place to put his legs at the bar built for smaller people.  I remember charcoal grilled wagyu, skewers of foie, and a blur of great conversation touching even on evolutionary psychology, punctuated by unctuous plates. I fell in love with Raku in that first visit - so much so that I didn't even take notes about the food - I was so in the moment enjoying it.

It was difficult to leave it behind and I wished we could have this experience back home.  Luckily, I was able to return on the next Vegas visit.  Here's the report on highlights from the meal: 
 
Poached Egg with Sea Urchin and Salmon Roe ($9) - this was egg-on-egg-on-egg action at its most luscious.  A perfectly poached egg, with its liquid sun yolk, connected all the other elements in the sea glass style bowl - creamy uni (sea urchin gonads), a food group in itself for me, brought its trademark funky flavor, while ikura (salmon roe) offered lovely bursts of brine, skillfully counterbalanced by the mild-mannered crunch of finely chopped white mountain yam, sweet juicy earthiness of adorable mini honshimeji mushrooms, and the clean crisp slices of raw okra. Perfection.  How is it possible that no one else thought to put these ingredients together before?!

Then of course, a trip outside of California is a wasted trip, if I do not get my fill of the now-banned foie gras. And with a fantastic robata grill, I had to get the Grilled Foie skewer.  There was a little too much sauce on it which made it a bit too sweet, but I was happy to get my hands on any amount or preparation of foie at all.
Then there was the famed Agedashi Tofu (half $7.50) - everyone's recommmended 'must get' dish at Raku.  It was pretty transcendent.  Not sure how they managed to keep the fried skin of the silky housemade tofu clean and crisp while soaked within the richly flavored, yet light and clear dashi (broth).  The baby mushrooms again make an appearance here and serve to add textural interest.
Spotting quickly another foie dish, again at a very reasonable price - I had to get the Steamed Foie Gras Egg Custard ($10).  I loved the soft, smooth texture of the chawanmushi (steamed egg custard), with the umami, earthy decadent flavors of foie striking the perfect balance between the two of levity and depth.  All topped by a rich, flavorful piece of duck.
I finished out the meal clean, with the Kanpachi Special ($12) off the blackboard.  It was one of the most beautiful, artful presentations of both the fish and the plate.  There wasn't any mind-blowingly unique pairings of ingredients here, but sometimes when the ingredients are pristine the best thing to do is not to mess with it too much, and just let nature be the star.  The presentation of course adds to the enjoyment of the dish though and they pulled that off perfectly here.

Although every time I leave Raku, I wish they could have a branch in LA - I realized that it's better that it stays in Vegas.  It's human nature to want what we can't have - and maybe its inaccessibility on an everyday basis is what helps it sustain that pedestal status in my mind.  Maybe it wouldn't feel or taste the same at all, if I had access to it in LA.  It definitely gives me something to look forward to next time I'm in town again - and perhaps will even be a reason for another visit.

Raku: I will be back for more shameless indulgence. Calories be damned. Til then, this is me, encapsulating you, into a beautiful memory.

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Raku
5030 Spring Mountain Rd, Ste. 2, Las Vegas, NV 89146
Ph: 702.367.3511
Website: raku-grill.com

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Raku on Urbanspoon







Sunday, May 20, 2012

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon: Culinary Jackpot with Chef of the Century

Vegas, pure and simple, revolves around money. Ways to make it (for the lucky few), and ways to be relieved of the 'burden' of a populated bank account (for the remaining majority).   The greatest part of that equation is the explosion of world class dining venues, as another (arguably better, from a food lover's perspective) way for visitors to draw enjoyment from carefree / conspicuous spending.

I am not one afflicted with an obese wallet - but having saved on meals and other areas throughout the year, I do allow myself to indulge in a spectacular meal or two on occasion...(cue Destiny's Child song) So, just before a business trip to Vegas, I threw out a call for recs to the Twitter hive mind, and was excited when fellow blogger sinosoul recommended L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon as good value for the fine dining meal.

As the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world (where others strive whole lifetimes for just one, Chef Robuchon holds 26), named "Chef of the Century" by a prestigious French dining guide, and awarded the infamously difficult to attain Meuilleurs Ouvrier de France (MOF) which translates to "Best Craftsman in France" Joel Robuchon it should go without saying is a legend in the culinary world.
For a chef so well decorated, I always assumed prices at his restaurants would be astronomical (a la Thomas Keller's French Laundry) and completely not affordable to the average food fan. But on closer inspection, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon offered a prix fixe "Seasonal Discovery Menu" for 'just' $159! Still a splurge for me, but not where I'd have to win the lottery first!
L'Atelier is located at the MGM Grand, a sleek, modern looking but vibrant and fun space.  The concept revolves around a very open and inviting kitchen, that allows diners to see for themselves exactly how their food is prepared.  Dark fixtures were offset by colorful fruits and veggies and jewel-colored decorative pieces. Having decided rather last minute on the venue, I was lucky to even get a seat - but a little sad not to have been able to pull up to the counter with a view into the open kitchen.  I ended up parking myself at the back bar facing a wall of liquor and books, but was very happy to be at LDJR at all.
I knew dinner would be fabulous the minute L'Amuse-Bouche arrived - my bouche was definitely amused by the Foie gras parfait with port wine and parmesan foam. It was all kinds of earthy, creamy richness balanced by aerated parmesan.
Then came La Daurade - Snapper marinated with lime, tomato and virgin olive oil. The tomato based sauce was amazingly light and refreshing, while the lime lent a nice citrus layer that cut through the fish.  It was like a unique version of ceviche, topped by lovely crispy toasts for textural contrast.   
Next up: Les Huitres - regular readers know I am usually a purist with oysters - I love the unimitable taste of clean, deep ocean, but the Poached baby Kussi oysters with French <Echire > butter was a formidable rival - the clarified butter was luscious, but not heavy or overwhelming. Apparently Echire butter is 'the best in the world' and is so prized by the French that they have given it protected status, "AOC Beurre des Deux-Sevres" like they did with champagne - only the butter produced with milk from cows in that specific region of France can be labeled as Echire.  Upon subsequent research I learned that this butter is about 85% butterfat - no wonder it tastes so amazing!!! Small sprigs of thyme and chili salt lent a bit of savory and bit of heat - and everything worked in perfect balance to make for a sublime symphony of flavor in your mouth when you tipped back the half shells.  I wanted dozens more of these precious little bivalves and to hoard them like Gollum does The Ring.
After the levity of two starting dishes, we headed into more heavy hitting proteins with Le Homard Maine lobster in a spicy broth and shaved lime. This broth was incredible, with Asian flavors that my super friendly server explained came from ginger and lemongrass, and its pairing with lobster was another unexpected coupling that you wouldn't think would work - but the wonderfully fresh, sweet and tender bite of lobster shone through the deliciously flavorful broth, with delicate veggies - each piece perfectly cooked - offsetting the intensity. 
Then came what to me may have been a best of meal: La Cebette White onion tart with smoked bacon, quail egg "mirror" and green asparagus. This was a small disc of fragrant flatbread, served warm, topped by sweet / bitter white onion, addictively smokey bacon, lightly applied cheese to tie it all together, a perfect little golden quail egg at the heart of it all, flanked by lovely pops of green asparagus tops for crunch. I splurged on this one too and added black truffle.  All I can say about this one is: if I ever found The One, this is what I'd want to have for breakfast the morning after we got engaged (how's that for fantasy dining? :P Yeah I'm glad I got to experience the better and more realistic of the two).
For the fish course, there was La Lotte Monkfish cheek and baby leeks, buttery shellfish sauce with lime and ginger. A lovely, tender, sweet piece again influenced by Asian flavors -  could it be to appeal to the Asian contingent in Vegas? (Vegas is heaven for gambling and conspicuous consumption loving Asians)

Then came the piece de resistance - the one everyone who has dined here, raves about: La Caille Foie gras stuffed free-range quail with truffled-mashed potatoes. This plate essentially presents some of my favorite ingredients in the world all at once.  I know I'm way overusing the word perfect in this post, but this quail truly was perfectly cooked - and the sort of tongue-in-cheek - or, rather, liver-in-leg - playfulness of stuffing that rich, luscious bird organ inside the plump, juicy limb - was a stroke of genius.  I didn't care who might be looking - I picked up that bone and sucked off every last morsel, almost down to the marrow.  And the truffle-mashed potatoes were so impossibly creamy yet light at the same time...I was food-drunk on its intoxicating fragrance and texture.  Could have eaten 10 more of these.
For the sweet finish: the first of two desserts was Le Champagne Champagne gelee topped with a frozen raspberry mousse and rose scented meringue.  This was basically art in a glass - presented in beautiful layers, with a delicate sugar snowflake on top. The citrus and champagne light and refreshing after all those courses.

The second dessert hit it home - those who watched the Kings of Pastry documentary know that MOFs are awarded to pastry chefs at the top of their game - so small wonder that Chef Robuchon's desserts would be breath-taking.  Le Chocolat Baked chocolate ganache finished with an aerated devil's food cake and fresh mint ice cream. I loved every bite of this - it's nothing incredibly groundbreaking - but just very, very well executed and skillfully controlled portions so that all the elements work together.
I had been so excited by the amazing eats that I broke a rule and Instagrammed each course pretty much as they came (versus waiting until the meal is complete and I've left the premises).  Don't know if it was because LDJR's social media manager noticed the live tweets (they did start retweeting them!) or if my server was 500% incredible, but I wanted to note that the service was exemplary. Knowing I was dining by myself, my server went out of his way to make sure I was comfortable and enjoying myself, and came by to chat as much as I wanted, and discretely excused himself at just the right times to let me enjoy the art on a plate.  After dinner, he gave me one more treat - and let me duck into the kitchen real quick to get a behind the scenes look!!! 
All in all, an incredible meal - one of the best I've ever had in the U.S.  I don't often get to splurge that much on a meal, but every dish was amazing - and so worth the prix fixe to get the Robuchon experience.  And yes, I left stuffed and with a silly, starstruck grin on my face - without ever even meeting the chef!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6.5 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 6 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6.5 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$$$$ (5 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%
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L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
MGM Grand Las Vegas
3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South, Las Vegas, NV 89109
Ph: 702.891.7358
Twitter: @robuchonlv
Website: mgmgrand.com/restaurants

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L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (MGM Grand) on Urbanspoon  

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Sweepstake alert! Live the M Life (Win Custom Las Vegas Experience - and meals at Craftsteak?!)

Enter for a chance to win a 'choose your own adventure' style Las Vegas experience courtesy of MGM Resorts - including comped meals at any restaurant within any of the resorts listed within their family of hotels (including MGM Grand and Bellagio...can you say Craftsteak!?!) and shows.

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- Two nights in a suite at one of the following resorts: ARIA, Bellagio, MGM Grand,
Mandalay Bay or The Mirage
- Two days of lunch and dinner at the restaurant of your choice at any of the above
resorts
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- Two VIP seats to two of the following Cirque Du Soleil shows: VIVA ELVIS!; "O";
The Beatles LOVE or Ka, or Disney's THE LION KING.

GRAND PRIZE #2: Build Your Own Las Vegas Experience #2:
- Two nights in a deluxe room at one of the following resorts: Monte Carlo, NYNY,
Luxor, or Excalibur
- Breakfast, lunch and dinner for two from the restaurant of your choice for two
days
- Two complimentary passes to three of the following attractions: Titanic or Bodies
"The Exhibit"; Shark Reef Aquarium; Adventure Dome; Siegfreid and Roy's Secret
Garden & Dolphin Habitat
- Two premium seats to one of the following shows: Cirque Du Soleil's Zumanity or
Criss Angel Believe; Tournament of Kings Dinner Show; or Jabbawockeez

PLUS Weekly prize packages to be won - see full offerings here: mlife.com

Enter here: mgm.promo.eprize.com/mlife/

End date: March 28, 2011 11:59 p.m. ET 

Limit one (1) entry per person per day. Open only to legal residents of the fifty (50) United States (and the District of Columbia) and Canada (excluding Quebec) who are at least twenty-one (21) years old at the time of entry.See Official Rules for details.

________________________________________________________________________________

Check out my Sweepstakes Page "Win Your Next Bite" - for more foodie promotions!

Saturday, September 18, 2010

1MB Travels: Las Vegas: Todd English's Olives at the Bellagio Las Vegas

My first encounter with Todd English was at the Pebble Beach Food & Wine Fest a few years back, where his team served up pork belly in citrus marinade on the most amazing flatbread.  It made such an impression that when he opened up Beso with Eva Longoria in Hollywood, we had to go and try it too, despite lukewarm reviews and widespread skepticism about the quality of yet another celebrity food venture.   Beso's flatbread definitely gave the one from Pebble Beach a run for its money.  And I loved the decor, with its rich dark woods, amber scheme and giant chandeliers looming overhead all coming together to provide a very lush, romantic setting.

So, while in Vegas this summer, one of the first stops to land on my itinerary was Todd English's Olives at the Bellagio, famous for its celebrity chef and modern Mediterranean fare, as well as its spectacular views of Lake Bellagio, and the hotel's famous water show.  Three of us made the pilgrimmage on a sunny Sunday afternoon, and were seated right by the floor to ceiling windows - the view is indeed great, with water jets spouting 3-4 stories high seemingly right next to us, sporadically throughout our meal.  I also loved the restaurant's interior design, which, like Beso, used a lot of dark woods, and a warm, inviting color scheme - but its chandeliers are more modern and sleek looking, with amber fabric covers.


Our meal was prefaced by a trio of olives and olive tapenades that came with a basket of bread. In my experience, one of the most reliable early signs of how good the food will be at a restaurant, is the quality of their bread - if they take the care to ensure it is fresh, and served at the right temperature, it says 'anticipate great things ahead'. Olives served up a basket of cold bread that tasted like they were baked at least a day ahead of time. The tapenades were far too briny, and had a bitter aftertaste, which is unfortunate as you would reasonably expect any dish that served as / came of the restaurant's namesake would be served at a much higher standard than the rest of its menu.  Thankfully, this hors d'oeuvre was free.




Portobello Flatbread ($17)
For a starter, our eyes immediately flew to the Portobello Flatbread ($17), made in a traditional wood-oven with wild mushroom purée, herb roasted portobello, red onions, fontina cheese, and white truffle oil.  The truffle oil on the flatbread transformed us instantly into truffle hogs -  we INHALED this one.  The puree was creamy, while the juicy portobello pieces provided something substance - the different textures and flavors enhanced the mushroom theme and brought out the truffle oil, while the steaming fresh flatbread served as the perfect canvas for the mix.  This flatbread easily takes the 'best in show' prize for our meal.




Boston Bibb Salad ($13)
To balance out the heavier meat entrees to come, 'Birthday Girl' ordered the Boston Bibb Salad ($13) which came as a big wedge of lettuce with a smattering of shaved white onions, toasted walnut dressing, and a "shower" of maytag blue cheese.


Carpetbagger Oysters ($25)
The third in our party, "Foodie Mentor's Sister", and I practically got whiplash from flitting between the pages of the menu, excited by the creative sounding descriptions.  We decided to share two starters so we can sample more dishes.  The first was Carpetbagger Oysters ($25), which scored major points for presentation - they looked like elaborate oyster creations that happened to wash up on a sandbar, in a perfect line.  To breakdown the elements of the dish - truffle mash is stuffed in oyster shells, then sitting over the stuffed shells are crispy fried kusshi oysters wrapped in beef carpaccio, topped by a dollop of spicy aioli, all sitting on a bed of salt.  Unfortunately, the taste did not live up to the expectations built up by the visuals.  The truffle mash tasted bland, and...waxy!  Scooping the mash out with a spoon was like picking wax out of...ok, I won't finish this sentence, as this is afterall a foodie blog and that's not very appetizing!  The oysters and beef were equally flavorless - we understood the aioli's function was to give a kick of flavor, so we popped the whole contraption in whole - as an amuse bouche - to see if that would make a difference.  The aioli registered as spicy, but the oysters and carpaccio, which formed the bulk of that mouthful were not enhanced by the drop of aioli - in terms of taste, they remained disparate parts - you taste the aioli, and then the bland nothingness of the oyster wrapped in beef.  I also tried adding a pinch of the 'sand' (coarse grain salt), but that was also fairly mild and didn't do much for the dish.  It's too bad, as I really wanted to be madly in love with this dish - the level of disappointment is similar to meeting a guy that looks amazing and interesting from across the room, and you start fantasizing how perfect it would be to date him - only to find out he has absolutely zero personality when you get up close! 

Carpetbagger Oysters ($25)



















Pan Roasted Foie Gras Steak ($26)
 Moving on...our second starter was the Pan Roasted Foie Gras Steak ($26) with caramelized fuji apple silk, armagnac butter crêpes, pomegranate syrup, and mâche salad.  Though the crepe was a little too dense and soaked in butter to provide a nice counterbalance for the richness of the foie, the taste and texture of the perfectly seared steak, with its smooth, delicate center, more than made up for the minor glitch.  The sweet/tart combination of fuji apple slivers and pomegranate syrup nicely complemented the richness of the foie/crepe, and the mache salad added just the right touch of contrasting texture and lightness.   This dish gets second 'best in show' for the meal, after the flatbread.

Kobe Beef Tartare ($19)
Being on a budget has made me a more spontaneous and unconventional diner - I don't always have the luxury of following conventional decorums of wine, starter, entree, dessert.  I pretty much order whatever sounds exciting on the menu, that I would want to try if this were the last time I get to eat at the place. 

With that said, I ordered a third starter as my entree - unable to resist the lure of Kobe Beef Tartare ($19) with quail egg, waffle fries, evoo mashed potato, black truffle vinaigrette, and parsley.  The flavors were amazing and infused evenly throughout the beef.  The meat pieces could have been a bit more distinct (Petrossian's hand-cut steak tartare has ruined me for this dish anywhere else, in terms of texture), but it was an otherwise well executed dish, and the waffle fries provided a nice decorative touch.

Kurobuta Pork Medallions ($34)
The last dish I will review here is 'Birthday Girl's entree - Kurobuta Pork medalions ($34) with whipped apple mousseline, confit fennel, roasted spaghetti squash, cider reduction, and watercress salad.  Pork is always a challenge to get just right - it has to be thoroughly cooked for health reasons, but if you cook it even for just a little too long, it will become dry and tough.  Olives did a great job with getting it just right with this dish.  The apple/cider flavors are good complements, while the roasted spaghetti squash is an interesting side texture and flavor-wise (it was actually the first time I had spaghetti squash)!  However, while a solid hitter, this one did not knock us out of the park - and certainly was not in our minds a $34 value!

All in all, for this meal the quality was inconsistent - some of the dishes were great, some were solid, and some fell flat.  We concluded Olives is a great place to have a drink and a starter (Portobello Flatbread and Pan Roasted Foie Gras highly recommended!), and to catch the water show from a relaxed environment out of the scorching desert heat.  For the price of a full meal, the discriminating foodie on a budget would be much better served spending their money at Craftsteak - where the dishes are consistently amazing.

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 5 bites
Presentation - 6 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6 stars

Overall experience - 5.5 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 80%
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Olives
Bellagio Hotel - 3600 Las Vegas Blvd South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
Ph: 702.693.8181
Website: toddenglish.com
Twitter: twitter.com/cheftoddenglish
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Olives (Bellagio) on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

1MB Travels: Las Vegas: Craftsteak at the MGM Grand - Viva Top Chefs in Las Vegas!

In a city notorious for 'excess' - Tom Colicchio's Craftsteak stands a cut above the rest as much for its noble restraint from over-the-top showmanship, as the art and skill subtly yet unmistakably exhibited in its take on classic steakhouse dishes. 

Located in the heart of the MGM Grand, Craftsteak is both a mecca to which foodies find themselves making pilgrimmage, and an 'accidental' find for tourists coming through its illustrious "Grand Garden" arena.   Though the MGM Grand itself, like the city it calls home, is not really known for subtle sophistication - it does boast a lion's share (had to do it, sorry!) of restaurants within its "Grand Garden" arena that offer fine dining in tasteful settings.  Craftsteak can be found, after a long hike through the casino, among the serenity of this row - with the lights and noise thankfully dialed down to an ambient level. 

On this particular occasion, we were at Craftsteak to celebrate a friend's birthday - commandeering a coveted table in the semi-private dining room (which we ended up sharing with a Jonas Brother!).  The decor is rich, warm and welcoming, with its dark wood furniture and wall panels.  The room fit four tables of eight to ten people, affording a cozy space for an intimate, yet lively, dinner.

As we were a large group, the birthday girl had mapped out our three-course meal in advance - so some of the items I will attempt to capture for you below may not be on the regular menu (though most appear to be, as noted).

Heirloom Tomato Salad ($12-$14)
Our dinner was served family style - the better for everyone to get to experience multiple dishes during each course.

We started with three different types of salad:
Heirloom Tomato, Baby Beets with Pickled Egg, and Warm Frisee.

The Heirloom Tomato salad was unbelievable - beautifully designed to showcase the perfectly ripened tomatoes for the eyes and the palate.  Plump tomatoes of varying colors and sizes are brushed with olive oil and topped with thai basil.  The simplicity in the preparation of this dish allows the natural sweetness and juicy-ness of the tomatoes to shine through.   
Baby Beets with Pickled Egg ($13)

Next was the Baby Beets with Pickled Egg - which was impressive in its originality.  The creamy/slightly rubbery texture of the single pickled, hard-boiled egg served as a nice counterpoint to the abundance of softly crunchy multi-colored beets in the dish, punctuating it with a provocative extra kick of acidity.  Fresh sprigs of herbs are thrown into the mix for good measure, adding pops of contrasting color, texture and savory flavor.  This is probably the best beet salad I've had outside of L.A.

The third and final entry in the salad
Warm Frisee Salad ($13)
sampler is the Warm Frisee Salad, with a deliciously runny egg and shamelessly fat-addled pieces of bacon strewn through the spiny leaves of frisee. I'm very glad I got to experience this dish before the whole egg scare broke - I'm a big fan of barely cooked eggs - and in this dish, the smooth 'liquid gold' of the lightly poached egg yolk nicely offsets the unruly spines of the frisee.  The saltiness and grease from the bacon flavors the dish and brings the otherwise disparate elements together.

After grazing on the feast of salads and very reluctantly letting servers clear the few remaining scraps away, we set our sights on the main course - Wagyu beef, cooked medium rare and served in beautiful copper cookware.
Wagyu Beef ($130-$285 per person
depending on domestic vs. Japanese "A5" beef)
Words failed me at first taste of these steak strips - gorgeously balanced portions of muscle and fat, perfectly seasoned to let the texture and natural flavors of the meat serve as testimony to its quality.  If not for the need to maintain some semblance of decorum, I would have picked up the pan and licked every last drizzle clean. 
Side dishes:  Gnocchi, corn concoction (not on regular menu)

Though the steak was such pure joy to experience, and did not need any accompaniment, our wonderful hostess made sure we had a plethora of side dishes to stimulate our taste buds.  One of these dishes was potato gnocchi - giant, soft, light and gently flavored pillows that provided a nice contrast to the texture of the beef. 

We also had asparagus and some sort of corn concoction that I regret not hounding the waiter until he provided all the specifics for.  The plate of 'corn mix' was like no other corn focused dish I had ever tasted - it was hard to identify all the layers of flavor in it, though it did not look complicated - but suffice it to say it was simply incredible.
All in all, those who appreciate great food, in a nice atmosphere, with attentive yet unobtrusive service - and without the pretentiousness - would fall deeply in love with Craftsteak at the MGM Grand.  Kudos to Tom Colicchio for showing Top Chefs who's boss!  Now, if only you would open a location in Los Angeles, so that we can indulge in the magnificence of your culinary coup with greater frequency!

On a 7 point scale:

Flavor - 6.5 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 5 bites
Ambience - 6 stars
Service - 6.5 stars
Overall experience - 6.5 bites
Price - $$$ (3 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%

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Craftsteak
3799 S. Las Vegas Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV, 89109
Ph: 702.891.7318
Website: craftrestaurant.com
Twitter: twitter.com/tom_colicchio
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Craftsteak (MGM Grand) on Urbanspoon

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