Saturday, March 12, 2011

1MB Travels: Hong Kong: Yung Kee Restaurant - Best Roast Goose, Wonton, Thousand Year Old Eggs Ever

There are three more restaurants from my holiday trip to Hong Kong that I want to cover here before too much time passes!   The first of these: Yung Kee.

As a kid, at least one Sunday a month, our family used to go to Yung Kee for lunch after church - just a short walk down the hill, and on the way to the MTR (HK's subway system) and taxi stands in Central, Hong Kong's financial district.

I remembered my parents telling us every visit that Yung Kee was famous for its roasted goose, and it never disappointed us - my brother and I looked forward to it every week, as though it were the true reward for each trying to be as good a person as we can be, including sitting still during church service (was the afterlife that important when you can have roast goose in this one?!).  The family-owned restaurant has been a staple of Hong Kong since its founder opened his first small food stall in 1942, is steeped in the city's history, and one of the few that has truly stood the test of time - recently becoming a one Michelin Star restaurant (2010). 

Though the awarding of Michelin stars in Hong Kong has been the subject of controversy (locals feel inspectors do not have enough knowledge of Chinese cuisine to appreciate local venues - and purported the awards resulted from a superficial survey of western friendly restaurants, mainly conveniently found in five star hotels).
Wholesale controversy aside, Yung Kee is one of the restaurants that are respected by locals and in my opinion deserving of the star. 

On this visit, we opted for dinner.  Meals at Yung Kee always begin with an amuse bouche of Thousand Year Old Eggs (pidan) with sliced Pickled Ginger. 

Those unfamiliar with this Cantonese staple may be a bit appalled by its appearance - the eggs are brown / black and the preserved yolk basically looks like it's long past being safe for human consumption.  In fact, it looks like even bacteria might keel over at first bite of these things.  But I grew up with this so I love it. Nowadays you would mainly find these eggs chopped up in congee (rice porridge) with lean pork (pidan shao yuk juk) - but Yung Kee lets their pure taste /texture shine on their own halved, with sliced pickled ginger - and I find their offering the - um - the freshest tasting ones I've ever had, with an incredibly creamy, unique tasting savory center with just a hint of sweet, encased by a light, lovely gelatinous outer layer that falls away with each bite. 

The sweet / sour/ spiciness of the fresh, crunchy pickled ginger slices cut through the denser flavors and textures of the egg nicely.  Other preserved goods Yung Kee has for sale: chinese 'waxed' sausages (lap cheong) and Preserved Fresh Goose Liver Sausages.

That Yung Kee is focused on service and keeping up with the times is evident in its menu.  Its answer to the questions most people ask of any new restaurant they go to - "What are your signature / best dishes?  What would you recommend?" - is to create prix fixe menus around their award winning dishes - calling awards out right on the menu - and to do it in four languages - the better to service all the tourists who have found their way to the place.  Some of the awards were from quite a while back, but the quality of some of the dishes have been lovingly maintained with pride.

At our very knowledgeable server's (been with the restaurant 10+ years!) recommendation, we went with the prix fixe for two people, even though there were three of us - since the dishes included some of our favorites, and the portions were large enough to feed us all.  First dish, of course, was the Roasted Goose with Preserved Trotter with Soy Sauce (Best of the Best Culinary Award 2002).  This is hands down heaven on a plate - the most succulent, flavorful roast goose I have ever had, with the perfect fat to meat ratio and incredibly juicy yet crisp skin.  The preserved trotters had a subtle salinity and crunch that served as worthy companion to the goose.  According to my parents, the secret to the unbelievable deliciousness of Yung Kee's roasted goose is that they roast them on the premises daily.  I would gladly sentence myself to calorie purgatory for all eternity if I could just have this roast goose forever.

Next up was the Deep Fried Prawn with Mini Crab Roe (Best of the Best Culinary Awards 2001).  Our favorite thing about this dish was the little baby crab they included as garnish (to indicate the presence of crab roe) - an adorable detail that we ended up having a lot of fun with via discussions of how to get the fragile little guy home without crushing him (he ended up travelling in 10 layers of tissue that then went into my dad's shirt pocket), and Amelie/gnome inspired photos.

The fried prawns themselves were unremarkable in taste and texture, unfortunately - and even a little soggy.
Our next course was Abalone with Mushroom in Superior Broth - this one we ended up ordering a third serving as they come in individual portions and it's hard to split an abalone in soup!  This broth was amazing - its clear, clean taste really hits you to your core at first sip.  The abalone was perfect, just the right (bite) size - and cooked to the perfect degree so that it's very soft and easy to chew, but still retains its structure so that you get substantial bites for a soup that's nourishing but not overwhelmingly rich. 

For our second entree, we had the Steamed Garoupa with Chinese Ham, plated with kai lan for contrasting crunch and pops of green.  The saltiness of the cured ham helped enhance the subtle flavors of the fish.  We enjoyed this dish, but it was not mind-blowing.








Our last savory course was Wonton Noodles - this is somewhat unusual as people typically eat wonton noodles as a single-bowl meal, not as part of a multi-course dinner.  With formal Chinese dinners - especially with banquets - it is customary to serve rice and/or noodles at the finish, but usually in the form of fried rice and/or stir-fried e-fu noodles, not wonton.

In discussing this dish, I learned Yung Kee's original rise to fame was with their wonton noodles.  The family was poor and started out with a simple food stall serving wonton noodles.  Word of mouth spread quickly and people came far and wide to taste them - and it is with the money the family made from their wonton noodles that they then built their signature roast goose business.  It's easy to see how they could become famous for this simple dish - sometimes it is the simple ones that require most skill:  you can't hide behind fancy ingredients and complex visual presentations. Yung Kee wins with fresh, amazing, clean, perfectly sized shrimp wontons clearly made with fresh wrappers, fresh noodles made needle thin to let the wontons shine, but substantial enough to sop up the clear flavorful broth, served at just the right temperature - just hot enough to seize your soul, but not scorching so as to burn you going down.  (You can always tell when wrappers are mass produced or pre-made days ahead - they are usually more dense, stiff where they are 'sealed' with egg, and some even rubbery in texture.  Yung Kee's wrappers are almost rice paper thin, yet hold together even in the hot broth, and are flowing / light.)  Though there has been sadly reported infighting within the family in recent years with the heirs debating whether to sell the business off, on my particular visit at least, it did not impact the quality of the food - and the traditions, care and pride in their 'founding' dish seems to have still come through.  The Wonton Noodles was my second favorite dish of the meal (tied with the Abalone soup), after the roast goose. 

For a sweet finish, the meal ends with Mango Pudding, which has a consistency between custard and jello.  This has become a standard dessert course at Chinese restaurants.  Yung Kee's stands out again with simple, quality ingredients and preparation - the pudding is smooth, with large chunks of fresh mango inside.

All in all, our six-course meal came out to HK$860 + 10% service charge = HK$946 total or about US$121 for 3 people!!!

I may not go to church very much (at all?) anymore, but I am still very much in love with Yung Kee and see it as a treat / reward. Definitely going back first chance I get next time I'm in Hong Kong.  And keeping my fingers and toes crossed that one day they will look to create an outpost in LA or San Francisco - I would attend their services religiously for sure!!!

On a 7 point scale:
Flavor - 6.5 bites
Presentation - 5.5 bites
Originality - 5.5 bites
Ambience - 5.5 stars
Service - 6 stars
Overall experience - 6 bites
Price - $$ (2 bite marks)
Probability of return visit - 100%

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Hong Kong
Yung Kee Restaurant
32-40 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong
Ph: 852-2522-1624


Website:  yungkee.com.hk
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Thursday, March 10, 2011

1MB Savvy Saveurs - Savings and Sweepstakes 3/10/11

Dericious avings and sweepstakes uncovered this week - click here to follow me on Twitter for instant updates on the latest discoveries :)

You will only find foodie friendly deals / sweepstakes I think are interesting here. I hate time-wasters like 'sign up for sample of gum', that's not worth the cyberspace it sits on.


I may stray to feature a sweepstakes if it's not food focused but amazing - like trips to exotic destinations, or deep discounts off designer threads to fuel your fine-dining wardrobe etc. ;)

Happy grazing!

FOODIE FINDS:

FOR THE WIN:
  • SpaFinder A Year of Spa Sweepstakes Enter for chance to win Costa Rica 7-night all-inclusive spa vacation for 2, PLUS 11 months of spa treatments (ends 4/14/11 11:59pm ET) Official rules here
  • Travel Channel Vienna, Austria Sweepstakes Winner and guest will fly to Vienna for 6 nights, enjoying city tours, concerts, museums, a Salzburg day-trip, $750 in spending money, and much more.  (Ends 3/31/11 11:59pm ET) Official rules here
  • Puma & Finish Line Usain Bolt Sweepstakes - Enter for chance to win trip for 4 to Montego Bay, Jamaica including roundtrip air transportation, five nights' accommodations at the Rose Hall Resort, meals and golf costs (ends 3/31/11 11:59pm ET) Official rules here
  • Conde Nast Traveller Readers Travel Awards Warning:  LONG survey required.  Everyone who votes has the option of entering a free prize draw to win a luxury five-night stay for two at the award-winning Banyan Tree Phuket in Thailand, arranged through W&O Travel. The holiday is on a full-board basis, staying in a Spa Pool Villa, and includes return flights from Heathrow with Eva Air and transfers.
  • Lucky Magazine 45 Days of Giveaways enter for chance to win grand prize trip to London plus shopping sprees at REISS and Boots - enter daily for chance to win daily fashion focused prizes (ends 3/26/11 11:59 PM ET) Official rules here
  • American Airlines Million Reasons to Book Sweepstakes - Enter for chance to win 1,000,000 AAdvantage Miles from American Airlines (ends 5/2/11  11:59am CT) Official rules here
This ismeant to be an easily digestible (yes, I did) report of third party offers - I am not the sponsor nor affiliated in any way with any of the companies listed above.  I do not receive any payment for these listings.  Please read offer details / official rules carefully before deciding whether to submit your information.

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To get more mileage for your money everyday - see Get More Bites Outta Your Budget. Check out my Sweepstakes Page "Win Your Next Bite" - for more foodie promotions!

Monday, March 7, 2011

Gold Standard 2011 - Setting New Bar with Culinary Currency

Yesterday's 3rd Annual Gold Standard Food & Wine Event was easily the best gourmet gathering I have ever been to in Los Angeles - the best $50 I have ever spent - and one that could only have been pulled together with the cache of LA Weekly's pulitzer-prize winning food critic Jonathan Gold. 

That the event was created for the people, to celebrate the essence of the Los Angeles dining scene - while reflecting Mr. Gold's personal, eclectic approach - is apparent in every carefully crafted detail.

First off, the event was held inside the Petersen Automotive Museum, an unusual choice for a destination food & wine event - a venue with a vibe that feels more Hard Rock than Pebble Beach (in the most fabulous way - it was eye-opening to check out all the classic, futuristic, movie-prop and vintage 'Hot Wheels' cars on display, after the gorgefest was done).  Read:  no pretentiousness served here, only a curated collection of the noteworthy.

The restaurants and vintners who were hand-picked out of thousands for the event ran the gamut from street food by emerging superstars to fine dining culinary luminaries, with cuisines reflecting some of the incredible diversity that Los Angeles has to offer, from Southeast Asian to Mexican to French to fusion.

The space was well designed - with the main room divided into three aisles, two on the outside for food, and the center aisle for wines - this was perfect as you didn't have to travel far to move from one to the other, and  'Designer Cyclist', her hubby and I found that we loved floating easily between the aisles to spontaneously create our own pairings!

Armed only with a souvenir wine glass, plastic 'fife' (fork + knife hybrid), event program and near-hysterical-excitement, we launched straight into the locust swarm of enthusiastic food lovers buzzing from booth to booth.

I knew we were off to a great start when the first booth we saw upon entering the main room was Mozza.  Regular readers know that Pizzeria and Osteria Mozzas are two of my favorite restaurants in LA, and they didn't disappoint with an incredibly smooth, creamy and yieldy ball of burrata topped with roasted tomato, basil and bread crumbs for contrasting crunch.

The tastings that followed were a blur of blissful, extended ecstasy.  I struggled with how best to represent them, chronologically or by favorites - and decided to on the latter.

So here are the highlights - my absolute favorite / pick for best of show (out of the items we tasted) would be Drago Centro's Foie Gras Panna Cotta with Duck Confit and Beet Crouton in a shot glass.  I might be a bit biased as this features some of my favorite foods on earth - but I thought it was a brilliant idea to turn rich, earthy foie into incredibly creamy panna cotta, then to counterbalance with gamey duck and crunchy beet croutons!  All in a presentation that highlighted the gorgeous colors, and smartly made it easy for guests to carry away quickly and eat while standing / scurrying through the crowds without making a mess! Sheepishly, I went back for seconds - twice.

My runner-up for best of show has to be the Bahn Mi with pork belly + ears, kumquat, pistachio and lardon from Palate Food+Wine.  Given my last semi-traumatic experience at the restaurant, I was a bit hesitant to allocate precious stomach space to them - but Designer Cyclist and "Mr. Cyclist" tasted first and convinced me with their lit-up eyes and disregard to the sauces dripping down their arms.  They were right - I absolutely LOVED the sandwich with its unique combination of ingredients and fatty juices soaked into the bottom of the bread - ESPECIALLY the fact that it is a completely unexpected ethnic offering from a place not normally known for...ethnic dishes.  And, we decided that from now on, like Windex in 'My Big Fat Greek Wedding', if something needs fixing or sprucing up we're going to say "put some Banh Mi sauce on it!".  Palate's Banh Mi paired incredibly well with a sauvignon blanc whose label I can't remember - will have to ask Designer Cyclist later! 

Funny enough, directly next door to Palate was Starry Kitchen - the husband and wife team who started with an 'underground' kitchen run out of their apartment, built a cult following, and now serves up their pan-Asian creations to masses of fans from a brick and mortar opened downtown just last year.  Nguyen playfully ribbed Chef Octavio for not notifying him of taking over 'his' cuisine!  I loved SK's sweet, spicy, coconut-y Malaysian Chicken Curry, and liked the Crispy Tofu Ball (stuffed with corn and fried in green colored breading) which was so popular they ran out maybe an hour and half into the event.  Nguyen "of course" dressed in Top Hat and suit, with a Gold mustache paying fitting tribute to his host. 

On the subject of blowing expectations - Italian is not normally my first pick, but "Foodie Mentor" has always raved about Little Dom's, and when we finally made our way to the tents in the back patio, we spotted a huge line and happy looking people walking away with BBQ Oysters!!!  Unfortunately, just an hour or so into the event, they ran out just as we got to the front of the line.  So we grabbed their last two Spiced Caramel Sundaes with candied pecans (delish!!!) as a palate cleanser.  The team was incredibly nice though, and instead of shutting down early like some (disappointing) restaurants that shall remain unnamed (why bother to exhibit / take up a precious slot if you're going to be stingy about it?) - they sent for additional supplies from the restaurant and reassured us that they would be 'back in business' shortly.  The service alone, even at an AYCE event, made me want to go visit Little Dom's at some point.  The team made good on their promise, and I was in absolute heaven to taste the fresh-off-the-grill oysters marinated in butter infused with paprika, garlic and other spices I can't report because I my eyes were rolled too far back in my head and my fingers - dripping with delicious buttery goodness - were jammed too far in my mouth for me to be able to take any notes!

Another favorite was Bistro LQ - which offered up two exquisite dishes - the tenderest, addictively-flavored Braised Ox Cheek on Grits, and Wild Hare Terrine with pickled huckleberries (I think they ran out of stuffed duck neck which was to accompany the dish, at that point?)  Again my inner glutton overtook the blogger - suffice it to say I would have eaten these all day if I could!

My go-to favorite for foodie-friendly happy hour on the westside, Waterloo & City, brought Chicken Liver Foie Gras Mousse complete with aspic in little plastic shot glasses, served up with a slice of baby baguette.  Loved this - it was a little pungent but still a sollid tasting.












The thing I was MOST sad about missing at the event is Michael Cimarusti's (Providence) leaf-wrapped scallops.  (I also missed Ludo Bites! :( They ran out when I got there and I didn't get a chance to go back) I had originally planned to hit Providence FIRST, but got distracted with all the whip-lash-inducing offerings around the room.  By the time we made our way to Providence, they had completely run out of scallops, but had started serving dessert - which was an amazing skewer of Compressed Pineapple whose density contrasted nicely with the levity of the Pineapple Curry Pectin Fruit.  Heaven on a stick!

The Gorbals, true to form, brought probably the most unusual protein of the show - Grilled Chicken Gizzards with Romesco Sauce and saffron.  If there had been a bone for this to fall off of, it would have fallen off the bone - it was that unexpectedly tender.

One that I had been dying to try was Jitlada - based on all the rave reviews from critics and bloggers alike, about its hard-to-find authentic Southern Thai food.  When I asked for the name of the dishes they were serving, I was told simply "beef and chicken in green curry".  Aware of the spiciness of its dishes as one of its claims to fame, when asked whether I wanted chili sauce I asked for just a small dollop on the side. Turns out I wouldn't even make it anywhere near the sauce - the dishes were so hot I think the three of us each downed a half a bottle of water before our eyelids could fall back safely over our eyeballs (I guess we had the Crying Tiger Beef!).  The burn was worth it for the taste - though I'm not so sure now that I can handle an entire meal of this level of spice!

Since my office is literally minutes away from Ramen Jinya, I didn't want to take up stomach space when I have such easy access any day of the week.  However, its rich, nuanced Tonkotsu broth lured me in, and after Designer Cyclist and hubby headed home, I snuck back to end the show with just one more bite (and sip), hard won through sheer force of willpower (my jeans were seriously in danger of splitting at that point).  It was well worth it, and a nice belly-warming finish to an amazing experience.

I also really liked - but could only sample - A-Frame's Furikake Kettle Corn that was spicy and sweet at the same time, with nori, sesame and corn nuts.
And yes, going out of order chronologically  - next up in terms of favorites is the Braised Short Rib (?) with flatbread from Cut.  This was a bit too salty for me - but the cute, friendly blond chef at the booth (whose name I was too shy to get) made that fly immediately out of my head.

Chichen Itza served up Tripe Soup (wonderfully but not overwhelmingly spicy, though a little hard to eat while wading through the sea of humanity), Banana-Leaf Braised Pork, and Ceviche with Habanero.  I liked them all, but there was a little too much heat in the ceviche for me to handle.  "Made" me guzzle more wine than I wanted to, only for purposes of neutralizing the spice, of course.


Susan Feniger is one of those personalities that people love to love - and Street is on my list of places to try (though to Foodie Mentor's point, it's tough for an Asian to pay gourmet prices for street food that is not designed as a unique culinary excursion through different cultures, but simply presented 'mix and match' as is).  At the show, guests got to sample the Coconut Mung Bean Crepe filled with pickled daikon, long beans, carrot, bean sprouts and peanuts.  The crepe was a little sour, and the style of preparation reminded me of Ethiopian.  Unfortunately, I wasn't a fan of this particular dish - it was a toss up of flavors that didn't come together for me.

To be perfectly honest, I am not at all knowledgeable about wines - luckily Designer Cyclist and her hubby are experts, and took me on a guided tour down center aisle throughout the event.  A complete lightweight, I am normally done after one glass - but for some reason I was able to hold up at the event and got to try tons of amazing wines.  I can't name half of them, but I do remember Jeio Cuvée Rosé Prosecco, from Bisol - a medium-bodied sparkler with fruity notes (do I sound somewhat like I know what I'm talking about?  No? Ok.)  I also loved that the event offered a range of cocktails and mocktails as well.  My favs were Fine Print cocktail from A-Frame - with its luscious layers of sweet / tangy/ floral flavors from rum, hibiscus, falemum, lime and orange bitters, the Olympus Mons with ginger and lemon infused artisanal vodka from Moon Mountain, and the POM Julep - which was refreshing and critical to hydrate between sips of alcohol.


All in all, we had an awesome time.  Beyond all my raving above, I also loved that even A-list chefs were actually in their booths, some actually cooking.  In my opinion this is the best collection of amazing restaurants / chefs etc from a wide-ranging spectrum that you will find in LA for just $50 (General Admission is $60, but early birds got $10 with publicized promotion code) - setting a high bar thanks to the eponymous Mr. Gold's currency in the culinary arena.  And is the antithesis of the awful, fool-me-once-shame-on-you-fool-me-twice-shame-on-me event thrown by Los Angeles Times ($65 at door). For one thing, I actually left stuffed to the gills, and at no time did I feel like I was going to expire from dehydration out on the streets due to 'exposure' to extreme heat in an uncovered venue in the dead of SoCal summer, with little obvious access to water or other beverages besides alcohol.   And I didn't have to pay for any food that's even the tiniest bit larger than one bite-full, after paying exorbitant admission - Gold Standard was AYCE, once you're in the venue, it was a free for all.  Gold Standard is definitely, especially very much appreciated by foodies on a budget - if you only go to one food event next year - make it this one!  (And as I mentioned, with admission to the event you also get to wander through the awesome auto museum, which includes of all things the Batmobile - the regular cost of admission just to the museum is $10 for adults, so I consider it an additional value!)

Well done LA Weekly - and thank you Mr. Gold - I will definitely be back next year!!!

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3rd Annual Gold Standard Food & Wine Event 2011
March 6th 1pm-5pm General Admission, VIP early entry 12pm
Petersen Automotive Museum
6060 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036

$60 General Admission, $80 VIP

Website: laweekly.com      
Twitter: twitter.com/thejgold

Parking:
$8 self parking in Petersen Automotive Museum structure was full by 12:55pm!  Not sure if next year's event will be held in the same venue and on the same day of the week, but I was happy to find street parking fairly easily just 2 blocks away, down Wilshire - free because it was Sunday! 

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